Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Accessories

123468

Comments

  • rknopp1rknopp1 Posts: 6
    Did the hitch actually fit the existing holes in the frame ? or was there any drilling or modifying necessary ?
    Also did you get the original wiring harness and does it plug straight into the plug ?

    Thanks
  • karlokarlo Posts: 2
    Just picked up my '06 FEH and love it. Also, picked up some dry cleaning and went to hang it inside the rear door...no hook to hang it on....DUH ! Any aftermarket options?

    sign me.. Left hangin' in Syracuse.
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Posts: 116
    Hello from Sunny Texas! Does anyone know about where to find add-on door sill plates in a brushed aluminum or satin aluminum finish. We have a hybrid Mariner and would like to dress up the empty space on the door opening frame. I ordered some sight unseen from Ford but they look like carbon fiber ( black and shiny ). We would like them to coordinate with the trim on the vehicle. We don't care if they have Mariner or Mercury on them, just no Escape.
    Thanks a bunch! 98 degrees here yesterday, set a record. Already had 102 in April! Got regular for $2.799 last night.
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Posts: 116
    We have 1 (one!) hook in the r-h rear - you must have the side curtains option as we do. They don't want a lot of stuff in the way if they were to deploy. Could get messy and painful.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,730
    pretty late reply, but yes i did use a dremmel tool to expand a hole in the frame on each side. not a big deal.
    to fish the bolts, i used some skinny speaker wire attached with some plumbers tape to the thread end of the bolts.
  • jchallsjchalls Posts: 1
    I just installed a hitch on my 2005 escape (just filed out 1 access hole by hand), but I got the wrong wiring kit. Does anyone have information on which kit I need?
  • rsmbobrsmbob Posts: 12
    Hi all,
    Bought a used 2004 Tribute LX a couple of months ago and it is serving me well so far. Looking to get some kind of step bar or running boards because the vehicle is pretty high, primarily for my 2 and 7 year old kids.

    I know nothing about running boards or step bars and want something good looking, easy to install, and relatively cheap. Can anyone point me in the right direction of what to look at and how much to pay? Thanx.
  • augustoeaaugustoea Posts: 1
    Hey axel1997,

    Do you now by any chance what kind of lamps were installed on the front bar? They look to me like PIAA 520 for the model but the size of these are smaller. I got the westin light bar and am looking for lamps. Any suggestions?

    Thanks a bunch
  • dkrayziedkrayzie Posts: 5
    anyone know how I can get the specs for the stereo in my 2006 Escape?
  • rknopp1rknopp1 Posts: 6
    Does anybody have experiences / knowlegde about installing All Terrain tires on an AWD V6 Escape ?
    Are there warranty restrictions from Ford ?
    How is the ride quality and fuel economy effected ?

    Thanks
  • mtuttymtutty Posts: 1
    First off, I'm really enjoying my new Escape Hybrid and getting MUCH better mileage, city and highway, than I did with my Trailblazer.

    However, it seems to me that the motor kicks in too early for much of my city driving. Is anyone aware of a mod, aftermarket device or Ford plan that would allow "tweaking" of the balance between electric and gas power?
  • elaineannelaineann Posts: 3
    I am a sirius addict. I've had it for 3 years. The only downside
    has been all the extra wires around the dash due to my Sportster.

    I was very excited when I bought my 2007 FEH hybrid last week
    because the stereo is "satellite radio ready." Which usually means
    that you just have to add a tuner and antenna and you're ready to
    go. Cost to do that would normally be around $100-$150. When I made
    some inquiries about upgrading it at the dealer, I was shocked to
    find that to do it with this radio you supposedly have to use Ford's
    tuner and harness - TO THE TUNE OF $538.

    When I talked to the installer, I said, well, it would be less
    expensive for me to buy a better stereo plus tuner at Circuit City
    and have it put it. He told me that the car will not run correctly
    with another stereo in it - I DO NOT have the Nav system, just the 6
    CD changer - because of computer problems and that I might void my
    warranty.

    Has anyone else heard of this?

    Has anyone replaced their Ford stereo in the Escape Hybrid? Has it
    affected the way your car runs?

    Has anyone successfully added on a Kenwood Sirius $99 tuner without
    coughing up the $538 to Ford?

    I have to say that the sound quality on my stereo is pretty poor -
    the worst sounding car stereo I've had in years. I wouldn't
    hesitate to replace it in a minute, if it weren't for the warning
    that I might screw up my car and void my warranty.
  • mecheng1mecheng1 Posts: 161
    I have the "low-end" six-CD changer in my 2006 FEH. Poor sound quality is partially due to the "99-cent" speakers Ford provided OEM. I already changed all 4 of mine out. The quality of the originals was exceptionally cheap.

    I highly doubt the contention that the FEH warranty is voided if you change the stereo. Call or email Ford customer service and get them to answer the question.

    Good Luck
  • I am trying to install a trailer hitch for a 2004 Ford Escape. The instructions indicate that I should fish the bolt assembly through the access hole in the frame.

    Does anyone know where the access hole is located? I can't find it anywhere. Do I need to remove the bumper to get to it?

    Thanks!
  • Mine also, I would love a way to tweak it so that the gas engine would start a little later. I did read some posts here that by using the L and D in different combinations that you can hold off the gas engine from starting all the way up to 40 Miles Per Hour.
  • hcorhcor Posts: 15
    Just installed Dunlop RVXT's on a 2006 Tribute. Dealer never mentioned any warranty issue as long as the same size and profile tire is used. In my case it was a significant upgrade from the Continentals that came with it. Too soon to talk about mileage, but these tires are quieter and provide a better ride so far.
  • I have a 2004 Escape and I need to install wiring for a utility trailer. Normally I would just go to an auto parts store and buy a harness that would plug right into the existing harness. However, this type of T adapter is apparently not an option on my Escape so I am going to have to splice into the wiring somwhere and I can't seem to figure out a good location to do this.

    Can anyone suggest the best way to install (or location to splice into for) a harness for trailer wiring that doesn't involve me paying somone $100+ to do it?
  • I just added a hitch (from U-Haul) to my FEH this week. The "access hole" I used was just the end of the frame tube. Here's what worked for me:

    1. Fit the hitch up to the frame to identify the 4 holes you will be using.

    2. For each hole you will be using - fish a wire through the hole next to that hole, the one closer to the front of the vehical. The wire should exit through the rear of the frame tube.

    3. Tie a wire to the heavy steel rectangular "washers" provided with the hitch. Pull the washer into the frame tube until the hole in the washer lines up with the hole you will be using. Using the hole behind the hole you will be suing to fish the wire through allows you to line up the holes.

    4. Fish another wire through the hole you will be using and the washer until it comes out the end of the frame tube. U-Haul provided a special wire you could thread the bolt onto.

    5. Now pull the bolt through the frame and the "washer". Cut the wire from the washer and unthread the special fish wire from the bolt. How simple and easy! 1 down, 3 to go.

    Sounds like a pain - and it is, but it should take less than an hour. No need to drill or remove the bumper cover - at least with the hitch I got. Good luck!
  • I removed my stock CD/Casetter/Radio that came with my Tribute. (Same as Ford) Replace the entire system with top of the line Pioneer CD/AM/FM head unit, replaced four door speakers with 3 way Pioneer, replaced tweeters, and after a huge amount of work, replace the Sub woofer with a new unit and amplifier. Lots of money, lots of work, but it sure sounds great.

    I might be interested in parting with the old unit.
  • Anyone have any good recommendations for an aftermarket mudflap(06 escape hyrbrid). Hybrid has painted lower panels that are going to get tortured on sandy/salty winter roads.

    anyone?
  • Just added my "Hidden Hitch" last weekend and can confirm that what the instructions mean by "access hole" is actually the far aft end of the "U" shaped beam (tube) -- the same beam that the hitch is attaching to.
    I attached to six holes by threading the empty fish wires (provided) "backwards" through the desired mounting holes back to the beam opening. Then, after placing the rect steel "washers" and the bolts onto the wire, I pulled both through to the desired hole and with a little jiggling got them into place. It helped to pull through the two vertical bolts - one on each side - and then loosely install the hitch, before pulling the 4 horizontal bolts - two on each side - through to the holes with the hitch already in place.

    This was my first experience with a hitch. Looks like this is all "business as usual" for those who have installed more than one hitch.

    The Hidden Hitch looks good and is out of the way when not in use. A good design that takes into account the modification needed to avoid the HV battery Air/Conditioning refrigerant lines unique to the FEH.

    :D
  • I like to know if its possible to upgrade my 2002 escape head lights with the new 2006 headlights. Any advice or instruction??? :confuse:
  • Hello

    After 86K miles on my OEM tires (p235/70R/16) I replaced them w/P245/70R/16 Michelin Cross Terrain SUV.

    2 Q's - it seems my gas mileage has been affected (from avg of 20-21 down to 18 mpg) - would it affect it THAT much?

    and - 2, what about my odometer/spedometer, should I look to have those calibrated to the new tire size (is that even possible?).

    I'm am coming up on my 90K tune up, so I am also thinking that a new fuel filter, etc., may also help bring my mileage back up ??

    Thanks. :confuse: I'm just not sure if I did a VERY bad thing by putting those tires on my car.
  • The size increase does 2 things. One is to increase the diameter by about 4%. This would impact your speedometer reading by 4%. 4% of 20 mpg is 0.8 mpg. Thus you should expect to see a 0.8 mpg decrease in mileage if you use the odemeter to calculate you gas mileage. The other impact the increased size has is to perhaps increase the rolling resistance since the tire is wider and offers more rubber to the road. The difference is also about 4%. I am not going to say that the rolling resistance is directly proportional to the width, but there is a relationship that causes a measurable increase. Additionally, the Michelins have a good traction rating according to TireRack.com that could result in more rolling resistance than the OEM tires.
  • mecheng1mecheng1 Posts: 161
    The OEM Continential ContraTrac EcoPlus are formulated with a stiff rubber compound so they can be designated as Low Rolling Resistance (LRR) tires...and the CrossTerrains are not. Many FEH owners run 40psi or more in the EcoPlus for improved FE. The EcoPlus are not widely available (just try to get one from someone besides the Ford dealer)

    From what I have read from others on these FEH forums, I would say it is possible that you see a 10% FE hit from the new tires (2% for the circumference change alone.) Did you happen to switch tires just as the weather changed? - in the past did you notice a dip in FE during colder months?

    There should be an adjustment procedure for tire circumference changes for the trip and FE computers (in the owners manual?) - but from my experience the speedometer is so inaccurate, I wouldn't bother with a formal recalibration. (just my griping about the poor quality Ford put into the gauges)

    :D
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    This post is wrong.

    when you went to 245/70 from 235/70 you didn't change the diameter of your tire at all. The first number is the width of the tire in mm. not the diamter. the second number is the diameter number and is a ratio.

    Mark.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,845
    When I went to one of the tire calculator sites, it showed a 1.9% difference in speedo reading between the 235/70/16 and 245/70/16 sizes (the 245/70 one is 1.9% slow).

    Here's a couple of calculators:

    Miata.net

    1010tires

    I keep hitting the wrong buttons trying to compare the two sizes, but I think the ~4% difference is between a 16 and 17" tire.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    image

    P
    The "P" indicates the tire is for passenger vehicles.

    Next number
    This three-digit number gives the width in millimeters of the tire from sidewall edge to sidewall edge. In general, the larger the number, the wider the tire.

    Next number
    This two-digit number, known as the aspect ratio, gives the tire's ratio of height to width. Numbers of 70 or lower indicate a short sidewall for improved steering response and better overall handling on dry pavement.

    R
    The "R" stands for radial. Radial ply construction of tires has been the industry standard for the past 20 years.

    Next number
    This two-digit number is the wheel or rim diameter in inches. If you change your wheel size, you will have to purchase new tires to match the new wheel diameter.

    Next number
    This two- or three-digit number is the tire's load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can support. You may find this information in your owner's manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.

    M+S
    The "M+S" or "M/S" indicates that the tire has some mud and snow capability. Most radial tires have these markings; hence, they have some mud and snow capability.

    Speed Rating
    The speed rating denotes the speed at which a tire is designed to be driven for extended periods of time. The ratings range from 99 miles per hour (mph) to 186 mph. These ratings are listed below. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.

    Letter Rating Speed Rating
    Q 99 mph
    R 106 mph
    S 112 mph
    T 118 mph
    U 124 mph
    H 130 mph
    V 149 mph
    W 168* mph
    Y 186* mph

    * For tires with a maximum speed capability over 149 mph, tire manufacturers sometimes use the letters ZR. For those with a maximum speed capability over 186 mph, tire manufacturers always use the letters ZR.

    U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number
    This begins with the letters "DOT" and indicates that the tire meets all federal standards. The next two numbers or letters are the plant code where it was manufactured, and the last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. For example, the numbers 3197 means the 31st week of 1997. The other numbers are marketing codes used at the manufacturer's discretion. This information is used to contact consumers if a tire defect requires a recall.

    Tire Ply Composition and Materials Used
    The number of plies indicates the number of layers of rubber-coated fabric in the tire. In general, the greater the number of plies, the more weight a tire can support. Tire manufacturers also must indicate the materials in the tire, which include steel, nylon, polyester, and others.

    Maximum Load Rating
    This number indicates the maximum load in kilograms and pounds that can be carried by the tire.

    Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure
    This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.



    UTQGS Information

    Treadwear Number
    This number indicates the tire's wear rate. The higher the treadwear number is, the longer it should take for the tread to wear down. For example, a tire graded 400 should last twice as long as a tire graded 200.

    Traction Letter
    This letter indicates a tire's ability to stop on wet pavement. A higher graded tire should allow you to stop your car on wet roads in a shorter distance than a tire with a lower grade. Traction is graded from highest to lowest as "AA","A", "B", and "C".

    Temperature Letter
    This letter indicates a tire's resistance to heat. The temperature grade is for a tire that is inflated properly and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure. From highest to lowest, a tire's resistance to heat is graded as "A", "B", or "C".
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    image

    Additional Information on Light Truck Tires

    Please refer to diagram below.

    d

    Tires for light trucks have other markings besides those found on the sidewalls of passenger tires.

    LT
    The "LT" indicates the tire is for light trucks.

    Max. Load Dual kg(lbs) at kPa(psi) Cold
    This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as a dual, that is, when four tires are put on each rear axle (a total of six or more tires on the vehicle).

    Max. Load Single kg(lbs) at kPa(psi) Cold
    This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as a single.

    Load Range
    This information identifies the tire's load-carrying capabilities and its inflation limits.

    Snow Tires
    In some heavy snow areas, local governments may require true snow tires, those with very deeply cut tread. These tires should only be used in pairs or placed on all four wheels. Make sure you purchase snow tires that are the same size and construction type as the other tires on your vehicle.

    NHTSA's tire safety page: Tire Safety, Brochure (DOT HS 809 361 October 2001)
  • mecheng1mecheng1 Posts: 161
    "the second number is the diameter number and is a ratio."

    The second number is the sidewall height as a percentage of the width. Therefore the 245/70-16 tire/wheel total diameter = 29.50" and the 235/70-16 diameter = 28.95" The difference is 1.9% which I rounded to 2%

    A 245/65-16 tire, if available, would be a negligible change as far as diameter/circumference. :)
Sign In or Register to comment.