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Mazda Protegé



  • chiyochiyo Posts: 18
    Hi all-

    My 02 Protege LX has reached 45,000 miles. Other than getting a new transmission at 33,000 miles, she have been doing good so far. However, the front tires went flat at the same time. I just ordered 195/55/15 Kumho ECSTA Asx tires at $70 each. The wheel cover cracked when I was getting the spare tire on, so I guess I'll ask my dealer for a new one :)
    I plan to get radiator flush done in a couple week. So far, the only maintenance I've done is regular oil change, new tranny, spark plugs at 30,000, and air filter. Is there anything else I need to do before 60,000 miles? The guys at Valvoline recommended me to do a Power steering fluid & break fluid flush; the owner's manual says nothing.
  • Power steering fluid & break (brake) fluid flush at 45,000 miles is simply a Valvoline profit ploy. Pass.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    Brake fluid should be changed every 24 months. Brake fluid is very hdrophillic. Brake fluid changes are often neglected.
    Power steering fluid I would not mess with prior to 3 years or 50-60 thousand miles. At that time I would change it to synthetic and leave it for the next 60 thousand miles.
  • My own experience is this: I have owned 17 new cars over a period exceeding 50 years. I would guess that I have averaged about 65,000 miles on each car. I have always lubed and changed the oil, filters, plugs, and radiator fluid myself. I have never changed the brake fluid or transmission fluid in any of these. And I have never had a brake or transmission problem, except for my 1980 Chevy Chevette which had an early-on, warranty-covered transmission failure. Most of my used cars I have sold to friends, and I have never heard that they have had any excessive brake or transmission problems.

    So I just don't get this current trend of expensive fluid changing, usually far in advance of manufacturer's recommendations.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    So I just don't get this current trend of expensive fluid changing, usually far in advance of manufacturer's recommendations.
    Do your friends a favor, change the transmission and brake fluids!
    brake fluid change why? article

    Also brake fluid change
  • Within the NIST study you referenced I find the following :

    "If you decide to flush a brake system, it is absolutely critical to use the factory-specified brake bleeding procedure. The job often requires a scan tool and special software to run the ABS pump and activate the valves. Also, proper training should be considered an essential tool for the job. Doing the job incompletely can easily cause more problems than it will prevent, and doing the job improperly can cause personal injury to the tech, as well as to the next person to drive the vehicle.

    Servicing a hydraulic brake system has always been one of the most safety-critical jobs anyone can do on a vehicle, and surprisingly one of the easiest to do correctly. On vehicles with ABS, it's not so easy anymore, but the price of doing it incorrectly may be higher than the price of not doing it at all".

    Nothing I read in that convinces me that I should let anyone open up my sealed-in brake system before the car manufacturer's recommended time.

    Your other reference (Car Care Council) sites no authority or study for their comment at all. And on their own web site they do not specify any brake fluid replacement in their "service interval" recommendations.

    In any case, I just believe you and I can only agree to disagree on this matter.
  • moparbadmoparbad Posts: 3,842
    The reason I posted the article is that it provides both pros and cons of changing the brake fluid.

    I use synthetic oil in my Protege even though the manufacturer does not require it. I do not change the oil until 7500 miles.

    The Protege is very well built and can likely take more abuse than many other vehicles.
  • "Other than getting a trans at 33K...." man you are pretty forgiving aren't you! Is that an automatic? I don't think anyone else in here has yet reported a bad tranny at any mileage.
  • I'm with you, if my daughters 99LX autotrans failed at that low mileage I'd be upset, even if it was covered under warranty.Hers is at 56K+ and other than fluids, we've recently had to replace the battery, 2 tires and a drivers side window regulator. Even the window problem bothered me, but it seems to be par for this Gen.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    My 2001 Pro LX needs a battery, what do you recommend, which brand and price paid? My Pro has 24,250 miles on it.

  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    But you can't go wrong with a Diehard from Sears. And there are Sears everywhere.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Hey, Jim--

    Ditto what Calvin said.

    On Hank's advice, I got a Sears DieHard Gold a couple years ago...I think it was about $80 installed.

    Even given our temp extremes here in the Windy City, it's been doing fine.

    Good luck!

  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    The November 2005 issue of Consumer Reports has a spread on batteries including quite a few recommendations as well as useful tips to choose a battery. Walmart's Everstart seems like an especially good value.
  • gee35coupegee35coupe Posts: 3,475
    talk about EVERYWHERE. If you trust the quality, you can't go wrong there. I'd still buy a Diehard though.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    I was searching on the web this afternoon, checked Sears DieHard. Can't believe I need a new battery at only 24,250 miles, but it's also four and half years old. May be the sudden change to colder weather. I couldn't restart the engine with the headlights on the other evening, thought it might be time.

    Funny thing about the change in the weather: the car coughs and won't start, I seem to be getting a chest cold and my dog has a cough and can't bark. Is spring far away?

    One other thing, do you lose the onboard computer settings when they change the battery, speedo reading?

    aka Jim
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Batteries need to be replaced by age, not mileage, and that sounds like about the right lifespan from what I've seen. And yes, the battery has to work harder to start the car in cold weather, so that is definitely a factor.

    I'm sure a Protege owner knows the answer to your last question.

    Good luck with it.
  • Re "One other thing, do you lose the onboard computer settings when they change the battery, speedo reading?"

    No to that Jim
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    ...Pat_HOST and Alternator. I figured it was age related probably, not holding a charge. Well, off to Sears tomorrow.

    Funny, the last time I had this problem it was the "alternator", 1977 Audi Fox, three bad alternators in one week. Never buy Factory Refurbs. As soon as they got it running again I traded for a Mazda GLC (1981). And what didn't work on that car? The heater. Sound familiar?

  • Paraphrasing the Protege Shop manual:


    Remove in the order indicated
    Install in the reverse order of removal

    1 Negative battery cable
    2 Positive battery cable
    3 Battery clamp
    4 Battery box (cover)
    5 Battery
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    Got the DieHard WeatherHandler. This morning I started the car and drove it for 40 minutes to charge the battery up, hopefully. Then three hours later when starting it to go to Sears it just barely started. I needed a battery today!

    Better than getting stuck somewhere, I don't have a cell phone, no roadside assistance plan, and if the police call wrecker service it costs three-times more than if I call. In NC that's $120. Ouch!

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