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Mazda Protegé

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Comments

  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    The Borbet Type B is close to the Mazda wheels in design, but have you checked out the Mille Miglia Spider wheels in 15", they look pretty good ,too.
    Also the ATP 55 wheels.

    The problem is many aren't made with four lug design. And you have to check to be sure whether the Protegé requires offset wheels: zero, positive, or negative. Most FWD cars use positive offset which pushes the hub surface to the outside.

    fowler3
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    ... are made by Enkei -- at least those for the 1999 and 2000 MYs. I know because a buddy of mine had to take one of his off when a STICK (yes, wooden) punctured his piecacrap Poortenza. "Enkei" is embossed on the reverse side of the wheel. They're a reputable name; I wonder if those wheels are available from Enkei or you have to pay through the nose to Mazda to get replacements?

    Meade
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    I know my 323 has an offset (I forget the figure, it's in the service manual), the Pro likely does too. I'll look through my manual. Guess I could just measure the steel rims too (offset being the hub face distance from the center-plane of the wheel).

    Fowler & Meade, thanks for the tips on the wheels. I checked Enkei's website. Can't find the Pro's stock alloys on it.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    http://www.pureoil.com/NewFiles/ecat_frame.htm


    Filter Application Guide:


       

    4 cyl. 1.8L F.I. (DOHC)


    Vehicle Part Listing


     PART TYPE NOTE PART #

     PureONE Filter PL14622

     Oil Filter L14622

     Air Filter A25049

     Fuel Filter N/S

     Breather Element N/R

     PCV Valve PV1030

     


    N/R : No Replacement Required

    N/S : Non-Serviceable Without Disassembly

  • C'mon Fowler..some nice 17" rims, chrome trim around the fenders, gold package, and a coffee can exhaust and you would be cool. Don't forget the stickers.

    I know the 17's are too big or they would be on my car, '01's do have 5 lugs but I think anything larger than 16" would be a little much. The factory rims on my '01 are OK but the Tantrum is way better looking. Looking at those rims on my '01 Accord is one of the things I miss most about it.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Posts: 1,007
    I called and checked, they'd cost 433.35 EACH for my 95 DX. Now I'm not sure if he quoted me the price for 14" or 15" alloys, anyone with a 95-96 ES, which size did those come with?

    So - yes - you would have to pay through your nose for the factory alloys!

    I'll buy them off tirerack, I guess, unless ebay has someone selling theirs. Anyone know which other wheels might be compatible? I see a few Honda and Toyota compatible rims, if they're unlabelled and the right lug-pattern, ...
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Someone is on EBay selling a set of wheels from a P5/2001 ES model right now, as I type. They are up to like $255 or something like that, or were the last time I checked earlier today. The tires are not included, but that's pretty cheap for the wheels.

    Ashu: The 1995-96 ES came with 15-inch wheels and tires. All ESs did actually, up until 2001. They just upgraded to 16s this year.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    The bolt pattern or bolt circle is the diameter of an imaginary circle formed by the centers of the wheel lugs, and is an area that causes much comfusion in the wheel buying world.Verify your vehicle's bolt pattern before buying wheels.

    The center bore of a wheel is the machined middle hole that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. Most wheels are hub-centric, meaning that the vehicle is supported not by the lugs but by the center hub. Too small a hole and the wheels won't fit over the hub; too large a hole and the wheels may not be centered, resulting in vibration and eventual damage to the hubs and the wheels.

    It isn't easy to fit after-market wheels unless you check out every measurement.

    fowler3
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    probably have a contract for the use of the alloy wheel style until after Mazda starts using another style, then they may be available to consumers on tirerack.com and in stores.

    You can find copies of older Mercedes wheels on tirerack.com and in their ads. Later sales help to reduce production/design costs and add to profits, if not many cars were sold using the wheels.

    ashi: When I said most of the wheels on tirerack are ugly, I was thinking about the styles with skinny spokes, almost nothing to look at. My main complaint about 5-spoke alloys has been seeing the rust on brake discs through the openings. Who wants to drive a new car with rusty wheels? ;)

    The ugliest stock wheels on a new car have to be the alloys that come on Volvos; they look like a huge beer can lid that was opened with an equally huge can opener, all-the-way-around. Current 5-spoke wheel design goes back more than 30 years, it's time for something really NEW and fitting for the new millennium, something with a tech look.

    fowler3
  • alpha01alpha01 Posts: 4,747
    Just read the review of the MP3 in the September issue of Car and Driver. Man, what a sharp car. I'm really interested in purchasing one when I am in the market around this time next year. My question... do you think the MP3 will still be around by that time, and if so, do you think that they'll be offering it for close to invoice? The Protege is definitely Mazda's best foot forward, IMO. I can't understand why anyone would pay to own a 626 when this little gem offers nearly as much room, and better performance, all for a lower price.
    Congrats to all you Protege owners... you're on to something that all the Civic and Corolla people (like my dad) are missing out on.
    ~alpha
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    Mazda has only built 1,500 MP3's for 2001. There will be another version for 2002 (named either MP3 or MPS--Mazda Performance Series) that will be powered by something that "whistles", meaning a rotary engine, supercharger, or turbocharger. Of course, Mazda has stated that rotary engines will power ONLY rear-wheel drive vehicles. A supercharger is unlikely on a small 4-cyl, so it must be a turbocharger. Hopefully, they can tune it to produce over 200hp like the venerable 323 GTX. As far as I know, all 2001 MP3's have already been sold or are otherwise spoken for.
  • There is a dealership on the Daniel Webster Highway in Nashua, NH that as of last weekend still had two UNCLAIMED MP3's on order. They hadn't arrived, no one had claimed them, and they (claimed) to be selling them at sticker (about 18,200). One blue, one yellow. That's all i know.
  • I'm purchsing a new 2001 Pro from a dealer in Ohio, and I live in Michigan. How are the front licence plates attached: under the bumper, or through the front of the bumper. I'd like to make sure, so that the dealer doesn't slap a cheesy dealer frame there for the drive home to MI, ending up with two holes in the plastic.

    Dave
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,322
    Tell the dealer NOT to drill through the front bumper fascia. Usually, they'll comply, if they haven't already installed it, esp if MI doesn't require front plates.

    I'm stuck with the frame installed by the dealer. At least it fits flush with the bumper (OEM designed?). It's pretty much going to stay there too as I don't think it's worth taking off and refinishing the fascia. Too bad, the front looks better w/o a license plate.

    I did put a clear polycarbonate cover over the plate to help keep it flat and protected from road debris. Keeps the plate from getting all ratty looking and dragging down the look of my Pro.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Here in Calgary we are not required to put in a front license plate. However, If I look closely at the bumper, I can see 4 tiny "divets" (tiny holes). These must be places to begin screwing in a license plate. The holes are very tiny and they are not through right through the bumper; they are just starter holes. Just tell the dealer that you don't want the front plate and they *probably* won't install it. Are front plates mandatory in Ohio and/or Michigan?

    Regards,

    Pro_fan
  • No, Michigan stopped requiring them 15(?) years ago as a cost savings measure, but the police sure weren't happy with that.

    Thanks, everyone for the info.

    Dave
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    Before I post this message, I was just remembering how everyone was poking fun at Vocus for his love/hate relationship with his car. Well, now it's my turn once again to vent my frustrations... you can poke fun, but just a little bit ! :-)

    In the past few weeks, my '99 ES has startled making this awful grumble/rattle/vibrate noise from the engine compartment. It does it during cold start-up for a couple of minutes until the idle settles down. It has actually been doing that for the last year, and if I am not mistaken, I believe I have heard other owners complain about that same problem. However, now it does the same thing when the AC compressor is engaged at idle!! Not only do I get the infamous AC "jolt" when the compressor kicks on, but now I get this grumble/rattle/vibrate noise and it just sounds like the entire car is going to shake itself apart!!

    It is quite embarassing at stop lights (of course, this is after everyone here's me squealing down the road with those wonderful Midas brakes) since it is quite loud outside of the car. I had a friend in the car last night that I haven't seen in a couple of years. His comments were not pretty. "This is the car you've been bragging about?" As we go down the road rattling over every pebble, squealing to a stop at every light, and vibrating apart every time the AC kicks on. And of course, to top it all off, the CD player spit out a CD-R that it was playing just fine for the past few days, but suddenly decided it no longer likes it. It requires a regular CD for about 30 minutes before it will accept the CD-R again. Very strange!!

    Anyways, now for the obligatory I hate my car. Or was it something like "It is the most gosh-awful piece of donkey excrement I've ever owned. I just can't stand this cheap little car. Unreliable as hell, it goes back to the shop almost weekly for whatever didn't break last week ... I'll never, EVER purchase another Mazda product!" LOL... At least I can take this with some humor. I have no doubt the drivetrain will last forever. But, will the body and interior last that long?
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I can not believe you are saying these things about the Protege. My DX was beat to hell in 37K+, and never squeaked, rattled, or anything like that. Not even the AC jolt.

    I have not really had any serious problems with either Protege. I actually have had more problems with the 2001 than I did the 1999 model. But they are all fixed for now, so it's all good.

    Since I have gotten the windows tinted, the car has been dramatically cooler inside in the summer heat. I am glad I got it done now, and it also makes the car look sportier in conjuction with the fog lights, spoiler, and alloy wheels.
  • nikecarnikecar Posts: 460
    my alty had a similar rattle at start up... was diagnosed as a bad idle pulley.
  • fowler3fowler3 Posts: 1,919
    I thought my 01 Pro LX was suddenly getting your problems, it got real noisy with a grinding sound as I approacherd a stop light. Turned out that I had my window down and the noise was coming from a '96 Honda Accord pulling up next to me. LOL

    fowler3
  • I think I'm beginning to have an A/C problem as well. It's intermittent so it's going to be hell trying to get it fixed at the dealer. I can start to hear them saying "Could not diagnose problem" when I walk in there to have them look at it. :)

    Well, here's what it's like...Every once in a while after I start my car (not every time), I have this weird nosie coming from the engine compartment that sounds like the A/C struggling or a belt slipping or something...hard to describe. It goes away after about 30 seconds, and will immediately go away if I turn the A/C button off inside. No change in cooling, and the A/C functions normal as always. After that the car functions as normal as ever....

    I also have this 'hissing' that comes from the driveline that I think I've mentioned before, and I will get these both checked up sooner or later, since they don't seem to affect the performance of the car.

    No, I don't hate my car. :) I consider these problems minor and as long as they get fixed under warranty then I'm happy. Then I'll be able to zoom-zoom along!
  • jstandeferjstandefer Posts: 805
    My beef is that these problems are starting to pop up and I have about 1,500 miles left on the warranty. Why does something tell me I'm going to have to spend a decent amount of money between 50,000 and 60,000 miles? If something expensive does happen in those 10,000 miles, it's bye-bye Protege before it starts costing me a small fortune. Maybe if I didn't have another 2.5 years of payments left, I wouldn't feel so bad.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    You keep referring to this "rumble/rattle/growl" or whatever as "these problems." Have you taken the car in and had it looked at? It could be nothing more than a loose heat shield. In fact, it sounds like one since you mentioned that it's getting worse but you haven't mentioned anything not working. The cycling of the a/c compressor is another factor making it vibrate.

    I wouldn't ditch a car, take a loss and get into another loan with something else that may or may not be as reliable just because of a rattle you haven't had diagnosed!

    Does the engine stumble when this is happening? Are you getting a check engine light? Does anything not work like it's supposed to? Take it in and have 'em look at it!

    My '92 LX (top of the line back then) never had one problem in 83,000 miles of ownership. But I still feel good when I think that I'm paying only $14 extra a month for 7 years/100,000 miles of bumper-to-bumper coverage. I figure that's the equivalent of 3 lunches at McDonald's for 5 years' peace of mind. If you're that paranoid about chitty-chitty bang-bang, you may want to ask your dealer about purchasing the extended warranty before the factory warranty expires.

    Meade
  • Anyone know of a URL where I can find a picture of a Pro LX2.0 with the no charge alloy rims now being offered on the 2001's?
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Just look at a picture of any 1999 or 2000 ES model. They are the same wheels.
  • Guess we know why the alloy wheels are free now.. .Mazda was clearing out their parts bin. :)

    As far as problems and the warranty goes...If I have any trouble after 50k (when the warr. expires) then the car will be gone. Not wanting to take my car back and forth from the dealer even while it was under warranty kept me away from the Jetta. As I said before this is my first non-Honda/Toyota purchase since my very first car and it will probably decide whether I keep a more open mind in the future or if I go back to Hon-yota even if it requires sacrificing more money and a little driving fun.
  • hkchanhkchan Posts: 420
    Is it a $500 rebate plus free moon roof or 0% financing for 48 months and no rebate? What If someone chooses the 0% financing on an ES that already has the moon roof discount, does he get the discount?
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Did you guys get my e-mail two days ago? I sent out an e-mail to all of you who said you were interested in coming to MAPP II but I haven't gotten any replies. We've been having off-and-on e-mail problems at work, so I thought I'd better check.

    Meade
  • snagy1snagy1 Posts: 55
    anyone recommend a good front bra, have seen a magnetic one that seems good, any comments. thanks
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I have a comment: Don't get a bra. They do more harm than good. They trap moisture, and they trap road debris.
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