Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda Protegé



  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Paul, just don't tell your boss about your new purchase as I sense a few sick days comming on.

    *cough, cough* "I think I feel something comming on". *cough, cough*

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    That is too cute.

    I was just talking to one of my co-workers, and he said I should add synthetic oil to my car at 1000 miles, and also change the oil at 500 miles, but put regular oil back in. At what mileage is it safe to add synthetic oil to the engine?
  • Everything I've heard about changing over to a synthetic suggests that you wait until the engine is completely broken in or at least until the first scheduled oil change.....3 to 5k.
    The reason for this is that putting synthetic in too early can prevent proper seating of the rings because synthetic is so slippery compared to dyno oil.
  • Wish I knew the "real" answer to this question. Letting engine break in completely seems to make sense yet why do Corvette's, Porsche's and even Autozone rebuilds come with Mobil 1 as a factory fill. Can someone explain this contradiction?
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    for you to complain ....kidding

    man, you really kicked your DX and then praised your pontiac and left her too for the ES.

    I cannot imagine what next? :)

    Anyway, have a great ZOOM ZOOM day with your ES.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    It's going to be a long wait if you are waiting for a complaint about my new baby. :) I love that car more than any before it! :) I have to take it and wash it today actually, because it's covered in road salt from the snow we had on Thursday.

    I had planned to keep the DX for a long time when I bought it, but it just grew uncomfortable after a year or so. Just got tired of it. I had wanted the ES when I got the DX, but it didn't quite work out that way. This time, the dealer tried to get me to go with a 2000 ES to get rid of it. I told him no, because I knew I would be back in a year or two for the 2001 or 2002 and I wasn't settling anymore. It was my way or the highway. Glad it turned out to be my way. :)

    15 more minutes before 5pm EST, which is ZOOM ZOOM time for me!!! :)
  • Found this on a very technically solid auto enthusiast website. Take it or leave it.

    Alan writes:
    >A trusted friend of mine said that I will have trouble seating the rings in
    >my new engine w/ the Mobil 1 I put in. True? Engine so far has only run 1
    >hour and no oil burning evident.

    Most engine builders use and recommend non synthetic on new engines, since
    the final "machining" (seating, mating) of surfaces is done while the new
    engine is running. I believe it was Hot Rod Magazine did a long article on
    this several years ago. What they reported was that the synthetics really
    didn't allow the proper seating of critical interference machined components.
    Most builders recommended (and what I go by) dyno oil (shale oil, not sand
    oil - ala quaker state, but don't remember why exactly) for the first 2 or 3
    oil changes, then switch to synthetic. One of the major builders said 10k
    miles, which is about right at 3 oil changes. Although you have no evident
    problems, the theory is you really haven't allowed the proper seating, by
    using the synthetic from the get go.

    Lots of documentation on the controversy of this concept, but most use the
    dyno oil for the first x thousand miles/x oil changes of new motor operation,
    cuz it certainly isn't hurting anything. The gains are longer term, properly
    breaking in a new motor, makes it last longer.

    If I remember the article correctly, those that have a new motor with
    synthetic in it should add 1 oil change to the dyno oil routine above. If I
    can find the article, I will post it up. Right now, your safe bet is to
    switch to dyno oil for a few changes, then go back to synthetic.


    Scott Justusson
    QSHIPQ Performance Tuning
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    uh, the weather forecast says possibly more nasty winter weather coming on Wednesday, but I understand. So go wash your car today and enjoy your 1st full day with a spanking new & clean ES tomorrow. (take the day off from work?)

    .... and then back to more salt and dirt... sigh...

  • jk111jk111 Posts: 125
    Well, I don't think using synthetic is going to be better than regular in the first 10k miles. The engine is so new during this period, I don't think synthetic would have helped much.
    I switched to synthetic around 20k miles, and it did make a big difference in terms of quietness and feel (the engine feels at ease on highway.) Now I just need to see if the new bosch platinum plugs are going to help..hehe.
  • Just a couple quick questions for anyone with the knowledge:

    Supposedly the "fuelmax" increases fuel effiency with magnets??? Does anyone know if this is a hoax?

    Also, the dealer here charges $69 per set for mudguards installed. with that being almost $140 for a some pieces of plastic, it seems a bit steep. Has anyone put these on themselves?

  • hboydhboyd Posts: 98
    Mudguards are a piece 'o cake to install!! You just need an offset screwdriver (found at Sears for $8 or so) and a little patience. An installation instruction sheet should be in the box or package with the mudguards; if it is missing, bug the part's guy/gal for one. It will take about an hour to install all four.... and it's fun work!!! I did it on my '95 ES and will do it again on my newly acquired '01 ES (need some extra money....arggggg!!!);

  • Personally, I would just follow what the Protege Manual says. Mazda built the car so I'm sure they know best what should be put into it. I go about every 6000 to 7000 kilometeres between oil changes, Mazda recomends 8000. I think it is a huge waste of time changing the oil at 500 miles...and it sounds about right what people are saying about synthetic oil. I'd leave the oil that comes with the car becuase I'm pretty sure it is "break-in" oil.

    From experience, these are tough little engine's. Our 1990 323 1.6L has 260 000kms on it. I really flogged this car when I drove it...and we usually changed the oil 2 to 3 times a year which sometimes worked out to over 12000 kms without an oil change. And you know what, the engine still runs smoother than most new engines!!
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Well, I am a huge believer in preventive maintenance. At the age of 42, I have owned a few cars and made some poor maintenance decisions, trying to save a buck, lol! Without a doubt regular oil changes is the cheapest insurance for long engine life!

    My 2 cents. Call it overkill, some say it is plain wrong, nonetheless; I change oil at 500, 1000 and every 3500 miles there after in any new car I buy. It might be wrong,(Honda Service Advisors, for one makes a point of holding off, on the 1st change until 5000 or so), however I believe clean fresh oil in a new motor is critical to long engine life. For me it works, I have never had ANY engine issues in a vehicle I maintained with those intervals.
  • have you ever had an engine problem with a car you didn't properly maintain? Was the problem oil-related? If so, what was the problem?

    If not, how do you know that the frequent oil changes made a difference?

    I'm not challenging your belief, just curious...
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I did wash the car last night, at one of those self-service car washes. I don't care if it gets dirty again, but it was covered in road salt which is not good for the paint. Not to mention it looked a mess. :) Hey, the car wash is only like $2 or something, so no big deal. I will probably be visiting now at least once a week. :)

    I am going to change the oil at 1000 miles, then at 3500, then every 3500 thereafter. Around 10K, I will change to synthetic. How does that sound?
  • I have a 1998 Pro LX. What type of system does the electric locks use: 3 wire negative, 3 wire postive, etc?
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    It's a two wire system. If you are installing an alarm, I wish you the best of luck. Here is the wiring diagram, but unless you know how to read it, I suggest you take it to an EXPERIENCED professional, not a hack artist.

    Click on the link and then select 98 protege wire.jpg

    Good Luck,


  • Hey guys has anyone noticed this?


    Problem: Right wire going to defroster is not bent up. Left one is bent up. Is this normal? I think someone did not push the connector up.

    If you have no idea what I am talking about, let me know.
  • We have made the decision to purchase the Protege ES model. Could I please have some clarification on the "S" plan purchase. With the "S" plan do you purchase the car at 1.5% below dealer invoice and then still get whatever factory rebate is available for either the 2000 or 2001 model year? If that is the case it would seem that even with the $1500 rebate currently on 2000 models that the 2001 with more standard features would be the better buy. Pros and Cons? shows the 2000 ES at about $13,100 plus t&l but the 2001 ES at only about $200 below retail, lots of difference. It would appear with the "S" plan that the price differential would be much less on the 2001. Thanks for your input.
  • protegextwoprotegextwo Posts: 1,265
    Ian, in pure truth, for me regular oil changes represent a commitment to a complete preventive maintenance program. I realize that fresh clean oil in a engine, basically prevents premature wear. Nonetheless, the process of taking stock of your vehicle's needs every 3500 miles is important to me. In my post "oil, oil, and more oil", I only stated my belief; "with out a doubt a regular oil change is the cheapest insurance for long engine life!" and I think that statement is beyond question. BTW, I am sure the majority of auto tech professionals would agree with that practice. However, I also state, "...I have NEVER had any engine issues in a vehicle a maintained with those intervals.", again for me taking stock of what preventative maintenance is needed every 3500 miles has contributed to a lack of problems with my cars. Ian, probably just as important IMHO, is purchasing autos from manufactures with a excellent reliability, build quality reputation, the two Mazda's, three Toyota's lasted much longer than the four Ford's I owned.

Sign In or Register to comment.