Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda Protegé

1331332334336337754

Comments

  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    Guys,

    I still have those 4 (2 each) wheel covers for the 15" rims on your 2001 LX's. I can no longer access my hotmail account becuase of company firewall restrictions. I'm trying to set-up another off-site email account and then you can let me know where to ship you the hubcaps.

    Thanks,
    Tim
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,324
    Appreciate the news. Here's hoping the Ford plants produce as well as the Mazda plant.

    Would love to have one of these new engines in a P5. I think the smaller ones would fit.
  • dotkobedotkobe Posts: 5
    want to thank you guys for planning to visit nyc for the auto show.
    nyc needs all the visitors they can get.
    the traffic in nyc may be horrendeous, but wait till you see all the people!
    leave your car at the hotel and take mass transportation (bus or subway).
    1.50 will get you 1 ride & 1 transfer; (note: buses take only coins, and no pennies).
    you can purchase an all day pass for $4.00, which will get you unlimited rides & transfers on the subway & bus for 1 day. this pass can be bought in the subway stations using the automatic machines.
    if you are arriving on a weekday, best to avoid the rush hours;
    use the lincoln tunnel instead of the holland tunnel or george washington bridge.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Thanks Tim. Let me know when you get that email addy working. Some paint got rubbed off of my steel rim and is now rusting!! Ahhhhhhh!! I really have to get my car washed and cover up that rust spot ASAP!
  • bean3422bean3422 Posts: 183
    Oh...several hundred (thousand)posts ago (or about 4 days in real time, I posted a question about my tires wearing out the inside tread. I just wanted to recap...yet another Mazda dealer bites the customer service dust. I took it in, and they agreed to check it out. Basically came back and said that their alignment was within specs, that it was aligned purposefully to wear the inside, and that my tires were dangerous and they would happily replace them for $150.00 apiece. NO WAY...I can get Dunlop SP5000 for $120 installed elsewhere. So I said no thanks, and asked once again if anything was wrong with my car. He says no, that it was the alignment. I say, well, since you aligned it, why should I have to pay for my tires? He says, well let me check on something. I wait 45 minutes, look him up again, and he says that my alignment is almost finished. Since I did not ask for an alignment, I assumed that it was at least free. Sure enough, another 45 minutes later, they are done and he say that they aligned it to wear the tires more evenly, and I can pick up my keys at the cashier. I said "cashier, I thought you were just being nice. You already screwed up one alignment, and I would have taken it elsewhere." He says, sorry, alignments are not covered under warranty. I said I didn't want an alignment, and he says he thought I did. So, I thought about going to the owner, but I am waiting until I get he alignment checked elsewhere. If it is out of spec, then I will go make a stink, but if not, then fine, I paid them for an alignment rather than someone else. All I know is they lost my business when I buy my MPV in a few months.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,324
    I use sythetic. Personal preference. I think it starts more smoothly when it's below freezing and when it's above 90F. Since I plan to keep my cars until they fall to pieces (or my wife makes me sell them to keep me to only 2 vehicles...an RX8 or a turbo P5 are awful tempting thoughts), I figure it's worth the extra money.

    I also lament the plastic bottles are not recyclable, although the metal cans were before I started changing my own oil (or before I started driving, although I certainly remember seeing them at service stations).

    I change according to the color and look of the oil on the dipstick. If I see a lot of black powdery specks, or it looks too dark or smells even remotely burnt, I change it. I figure the oil filter has given out before the oil has, but I've tried to change just the oil filter before and the resulting mess is a good enough reason to just drain and replace the oil too.

    Typically, I go 3000 to 5000 miles between oil changes. It depends on how temperate the weather is and how hard I push the engine. I do notice slightly improved economy 1-3mpg after an oil change. I've been tracking my economy for 5 years now on both my cars. It's a noticeable event.
  • mazdafunmazdafun Posts: 2,324
    Seems the average Mazda dealership experience is subpar. My local ones have been spotty, although they've been improving of late. Helps now that there are 5 instead of 3 and that Mazda corporate is pushing on them more to improve themselves.
  • bean3422bean3422 Posts: 183
    Just wanted to say thanks for those of you who made suggestions. I was really hoping I would get a set of tires out of this, but looks like I will be buying a set tomorrow. After much deliberation, I am getting the Dunlop SP Sport 5000. I would love to get the Bridgestone S-03 Pole Positions, but I live in Virginia, and we do get enough snow to justify all-season tires, but not enough to justify a set of snow tires. Oh well, I'm sure the 5000s are leaps and bounds ahead of the Potenza re92s that are on it.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    How old is your pro? Alignment is covered for a specified number of kilometres/miles, IIRC. Check your owner's manual.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    It's covered for 12 months or 12,000 miles under the "adjustment" period of any new car.
  • bean3422bean3422 Posts: 183
    I got this dealer to align my car at 10,000 miles...(the steering was never aligned since I bought it, but it took me that long to take it in). At that time, the alignment was covered for 12,000 miles. I have driven it 17,000 miles since then, so that is why they gave me problems. I should have kept an eye on the tires, but you would never notice the wear unless you bend down and stick your head under the car. I only noticed it because it finally started raining around here a couple weeks ago. I had not driven in rain (or snow) for so long I noticed that it was much squirellier? than usual. Then I bent down and checked the tires and that is when this all started. The dealer is completely in his rights to refuse to do anything, but I was really hoping that good customer service would kick in and I would at lease get the alignment for free. Especially since I did not specifically request it.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Did you get a copy of the repair order? The printout from the alignment machine should show specs before and after adjustment. Care to share any of that?
  • bean3422bean3422 Posts: 183
    I do have both...I will have to look up the old specs and I will share them both when I get a chance. I have not compared them, so that would be a good thing to do. Thanks.
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    My thoughts for what they are worth...

    If you change your oil every 3,000km, it is most certainly overkill, but you are not harming your engine by doing so. Nothing bad can come of it.

    Even most conventional non-synthetic oils have been so "over-engineered/formulated" that the viscosity and protection will last you well over 10,000 to 15,000km before wearing down under "normal" driving conditions. They have to be in order to meet the rigorous standards imposed before they can be used commercially in vehicles. Excessive towing and consistent high rpm can and does break down the oil quicker and in this case i would recommend oil changes for conventional oil at around 5,000km to 8,000km at minimum.

    The choice of oil in your car should really depend on a combination of your climate, driving style and car/engine set-up. For instance, I have always used synthetic oil in my vehicles because I have always preferred high rpm, hyperactive engines and my driving style matches that. I live in a climate that is quite hot in summer, quite cold in winter and temperate at best the rest of the year. Most engine wear occurs during cold weather start-up. The engine in both our cars are 4cyl, DOHC in the Pro and a boxster set-up in the WRX. Both are high rpm output engines and the WRX has the turbo as well. Both of these engines place more strain on the oil than a moderate horsepower SOHC V6 or V8 and they generate substantially more rpm and heat to produce power. For the extra protection at start-up in cold and warm weather and at high rpm, I use synthetic 5W-50 since that affords my engine the best protection in all of these instances. My fuel economy suffers very, very slightly, but the added performance at high rpm and heat/viscosity protection at high rpm is worth it.

    On the flip side would be someone like my father. He drives a big V8 powered Ford Expedition. He doesn't tow anything with it, only drives about 12,000km a year and does not drive aggressively or at a high rpm since it's an automatic and not configured or designed for high rpm driving. My father would realize very little advantage to using Synthetic oil for most of the life of his SUV. He would be more than fine using conventional oil and changing it every 5,000 to 8,000km. My mother and her automatic Accord would fall in the same category.

    Now, if you drive say a, manual 5spd, Dodge Viper or 5spd V8 Mustang and you let the engine out, you should be on synthetic, hopefully 5W-50 and should change your oil every 5,000km - 8,000km.

    It just depends on what is right for each person and their car considering a number of factors. The 3,000km to 5,000km must change oil slogan is nothing more than a wonderful marketing campaign by oil manufacturers and garages to get the consumer to spend more money. There have been no known advantages to changing your oil at these low intervals under normal driving conditions.
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    I'll let you know the new email as soon as I have it.

    Mazdafun, you are right, the oil filter typically wears out much faster than the oil itself.
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    I once posted a similiar thing in the WRX board many moons ago because someone questioned the use and validity of 5W-50. For everyone's info. Obviously, this doesn't apply to just Castrol products.

    -----Original Message-----
    From: PowerCenter, Feedback [mailto:powercenter.feedback@cnacm.com]
    Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2002 10:50 AM
    To:
    Subject: Response from Castrol your case number is

    Thank you for contacting Castrol. We appreciate your interest in our products.
    In response to your inquiry, Syntec 5W-50 provides the widest range of protection available. The 5W provides rapid oil circulation at start-up when most actual engine wear occurs and the 50 delivers a thicker high temperature oil film for ultimate wear and heat protection. Due to its wide range of protection, we at Castrol feel that this is the best grade for all vehicles. However, manufacturers recommend SAE 5W-30 motor oil to assist them in meeting Corporate Average Fuel Economy requirements. By encouraging the use of this grade, manufacturers can utilize 5W-30 in their testing to qualify vehicles for CAFE. A lower viscosity oil like 5W-30 will provide an incremental improvement in fuel economy (approximately 2%) during vehicle qualification.
    Given this fact, if your Protégé is still under warranty, we recommend that you use Syntec 5W-30 year-round to avoid any potential issues with the dealership. If your Protégé is not under warranty, we recommend Syntec 5W-50 year-round. Once again, thank you for contacting us. We trust that the information provided is to your satisfaction. Please contact us if we can help again in the future.
    Genevieve Hendrix
    Reference:
  • rae52rae52 Posts: 100
    Sorry, I mis-read your statement.

    Since your car is eqipped w/ a tach, does it idle within factory specs?

    Have a good day.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    If the filter truly wears out more quickly than the oil, then that proves my point even further: My owner's manual doesn't recommend changing the oil filter as often as changing the oil, if I'm not mistaken!

    Meade
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    That poor Protege! Some of the stuff just is a little over-stated and boy-racer. Ugh, hate it. :)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    That IS the same "Tropic Emerald Metallic" paint I had on my '92 LX ... at least they left THAT the same.

    (BTW, I really like the painted JCPenney gift boxes on the hood ...)

    Meade
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    Sorry, refresh my memory, what point did you make? I wasn't addressing anything you said directly, just the topic itself.

    When i say the filter wears out, that is perhaps a bad terminology. I should say that the filters become typically less effective than the oil over the same range of mileage. That is, the oil may still offer lots of lubrication and protection, but the filter's ability to clean the oil of accumulated debris is lessened by the same point.

    Of course the manual tells you not to change the filter before the oil as this would obviously cause some oil run-off depending on the skill level of the person changing the oil. There isn't a manufacturer in the world who would recommend and therefore accept liability that someone take the chance of getting burned by hot oil or other things such as too low oil level after the change that could go wrong. I don't believe the manual recommends anyone perform any maintenance on their vehicles directly other than cleaning the paint of bird crap and such stuff. they "hint" at owners who will want to do their own maintenance, but they certainly don't encourage it.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I have always liked that color alot. Too bad Mazda still doesn't offer some sort of variation on the new Proteges.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    What I'm saying is, in my 2000's manual, in the maintenance interval chart, it shows "R" for the oil at 7,500 miles (to replace it), but only "I" for the filter (as in "inspect" it.) I think the manual recommends changing the oil FILTER every 15,000 miles or something. Let me go home and check, but I remember something like this because I did a triple-take when I saw it!

    Meade
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    Not sure if it's exactly the same colour, but i saw a new 2002 ES Protege at the self-car wash the other day. Very similiar colour to the picture.

    AS for the picture...all i can do is laugh. That is just garish!!! Poor guy probably added about 100lbs on to his car, but it does look like he may have a turbo kit or NOS set-up. Would like to see that engine...
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    how appropriate...would you like some spring rolls with all that rice sir? LOL.
    btw I can make that joke because I'm Chinese, anyone else it would've been bordering racist ;)
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    It's my 2000 color that they still offer in 2002, Emerald Mica. Sure, it ain't teal, but it's dark green -- kinda close anyway. Teal was all the rage for a few years back around 1990. I remember seeing a lot of teal Crapaliers back then.

    Meade
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    on that funky boxlike thing forward of the rear wheels?

    Meade
  • gandalf17gandalf17 Posts: 348
    Okay, I must have missed that comment in all my catch-up today. Too MANY posts. :)

    Are you sure your manual says that? I'd be really surprised if it did. As i think Protege Fan (Mike) pointed out, here in Canada they change the oil and filter every 8,000km. Keeping the oil filter in and changing the oil doesn't make much sense because then you're contaminating new oil as it cycles through the filter. It does make more sense to change the filter and keep older oil in place and I know a few people who like to do this in older cars. The newer filter then starts to actively clean the particles in the oil. The ideal thing to do is just change both at the same time. This way you have a clean filter and clean oil at the start and through the interval.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    that would've been the air vent to cool off the rear brake rotors (the new Z06 Corvette has these). But I'm almost certain those on the picture are just stupid empty boxes stuck on the sides.

    and those HUGE nostrils on the hood probably don't really work either... probably running the 1.6L 96hp lawn mower, LOL...

    btw the new color in 2002 that's similar to the one in the picture is called seabreeze.
Sign In or Register to comment.