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Mazda Protegé



  • SporinSporin Posts: 1,066
    If you know how to drive, a clutch should last you 100k+ with no problems.

    Without mincing words, people who go through clutches every 60k are either severly beating on the car or don't knwo how to drive a manual properly.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    What would something like that cost to buy and have installed?
  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    Now that would be nice. Complete with factory warranty. Makes sense, now that you mention it, in light of the specs for the ms3. Hmm. Maybe I'll start saving up, just in case.
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    I'm pleased to hear that clutches last longer than they used to!
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Here's the history of the clutches in the new cars I've owned so far:

    1988 Hyundai Excel: 117,000 miles
    1992 Mazda Protege LX: 83,000 miles
    1994 Mazda B2300SE pickup: 114,000 miles
    2000 Mazda Protege ES: 34,500 miles

    Each vehicle (except the current one, of course) was traded in on the next one in the list at the mileage indicated. I've never replaced a clutch or had any transmission-related problems. If anything, I'm more concerned about the longevity of the auto tranny in my wife's new Protege5 than I am about the manual in my 2000 ES.

  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    don't forget the blowoff valve...

    psssssssssss pshhhh psssssssssss pshhhhh

  • yooper53yooper53 Posts: 286
    Interesting. My policy renewed last month and with no at faults or tickets they raised my 6 month premium by $164.50. Plus which I'd been with them quite awhile. I ended up with Progressive paying the same amount as on my OLD policy, same coverage. Still I'm a little nervous about the next renewal in August. Wondering if that was some sucker play on their part.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    my guess is upwards of $3k.

    The problem is to back it with a warranty would require a PCM/clutch/LSD/axle shaft/subframe and other component upgrades. Not exactly cheap. I say sell em out the back
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Funny how Progressive seems to be lowballing everybody right now ... maybe they need customers!

  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    Sheesh! You are getting ripped. I live in the city too and pay $106 a month with 1 reckless driving and two speeding tickets from the "5.0L". I just turned 25 though.
  • nematodenematode Posts: 448
    Doing things aftermarket is usually not worth the bang for the buck. Unless one is talking about porking down $25,000 on top of a $60,000 Z06 to have John Lingentfelter massage it for you and get you 650hp from 400hp.....its really not worth the money for cars that cost $15-20k.

    To get a turbo, good intercooler, diffy, clutch upgrade, intake mods, exhaust mods, will probably run $6000 installed. The intake and exhaust probably make up $1000 or less. A decent turbo and intercooler kit $3500. The diffy, clutch, and installation making up the rest. Doing it yourself will save about 3-4 days labor if you know what you are doing. Probably amounts to $1000 or so but I'm not sure. Thats all without messing with the engine internals, dropping the compression, timing, fuel mapping, all the associated stuff .

    To get resonable power with relatively good reliability will probably run $8000 installed. I'm not talking about anything crazy here...hotter cams, better crank, better pistons, better fuel management, ECU upgrade, droping the compression too and messing with the timing AND making sure you can still run pump gas.

    Unless you can get everything wholesale and do everything yourself it would be cheaper to buy the WRX, or WRX prodrive (STi), or the Lancer EVO when it gets here.

    If Mazda could get a Turbo kit complete with all the upgrades required for good reliability AND driving dynamics at the 200hp level under $8000 installed I would be AMAZED. If they can get their 170hp kit on the market with just the turbo and intercooler (nothing else) for $3000 installed I would also be amazed....but not as amazed as getting 200hp :).
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583

    basically the same press release, but got a couple pics of the car's front.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Exactly! You don't live in Baltimore though. When I moved to the city, my insurance went up like $55 a month on the Protege. And also, you are 25. I am 23, and my car is more expensive too. The tickets I have are both speeding (one 2 pts., the other 1). They drop off after I turn 25 though, so my insurance will go down steadily right after I turn 25.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    Didn't I see you mention somewhere that you have a totaled car on your record? How long ago? That could be the problem.

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I totalled my car in December of 1998, so that would not be an issue. I never mention that on insurance, and my driving record does not mention that either. The accident was not my fault, and I did not get any tickets from it. The guy who I hit (who ran through a stop sign), however, got 5 tickets and a healthy lawsuit to boot.

    You wanna talk about insurance problems? A friend of mine got his license suspended back in 1999 for too many speeding points (he had 9), then State Farm dropped him from his parents' policy. The points just started to drop off (he had 3 of 9 left), then he got arrested for DWI (blew a .12 in the breath tester thingie, and the limit is .08 here). He also got a ticket for reckless driving on top of that, which is 5 points here in Maryland. I would HATE to pay his insurance bill, especially since right now it's higher than mine is for a 1997 Nissan Sentra without full coverage. And it's a shame, because he just turned 25 too. He got picked up 3 days after his 25th birthday.
  • mdaffronmdaffron Posts: 4,421
    First of all, it only happened a little over three years ago. Second, it doesn't matter who hit whom -- it affects your risk frequency. It's unfortunate but true -- that's one reason I have two no-faults haunting me right now from 1997. They'll be off my insurance record by the end of the year. Unfortunately, being in the wrong place at the wrong time can get you higher rates or even get you dropped by your insurance company, even if nothing was your fault and you had no claims on your own policy. And don't think that by not reporting it they don't know. If the other guy filed a claim with his insurance company, you can be assured yours knows about it.

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    The insurance company didn't really have time to act then, because the car was totalled, I was too scared to drive for awhile (got the Cavalier 6 months later), and also could not afford another car right then. Maybe it is an issue then, don't know. Also, I DID use my PIP insurance on my car policy, but that was it. So I don't know.
  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    this 170 hp drivetrain on the ms3 evidently doesn't use any new internals. Just the turbo, intercooler with intake, re-programmed pcm, beefed up clutch, thicker half shafts (don't really "need" the LSD), and exhaust, as far as I can tell.

    Besides, I already own the Pro. It would definitely be cheaper to initially purchase the MS3 instead of my Pro ES, but its too late. At this point, I'd have to sell the Pro ES, taking a big hit on depreciation, and then buy the MS3. I'd bet that buying a factory turbo/drivetrain kit as described above would, at this point, be cheaper. Of course, it wouldn't come with the MS3 suspension and brakes, but at least I'd have the power upgrade.
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    if I can get 150hp from a factory turbo kit for my 00 ES for around 3k I'll be happy :)
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