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Jeep Owners Care and Maintenance



  • My daughters 96 Jeep Cherokee has a rattle coming from the exhaust system. It rattles when you close the rear hatch hard, and it rattles when you first start driving and accelerate hard. Later on (within one minute) the rattle goes away upon hard acceleration. We thought it was the catalytic converter starting to give up the ghost, but after being under the car when my wife closed the rear hatch, I noticed the rattle coming from the connection of the muffler to the catalytic converter. When I fiddled with the connection, I noticed that I could slide the muffler backwards about 1 1/2 inches. It still was connected but it was movable. My question is, "Is this normal for this connection to move?" "If so, why does the rattle stop after the car has been running for a minute or two?" "Does the rattle stop because the pipes heat up and expand?" I can't tighten any of the connections because of the rust, should I worry about this and take it in to a muffler place to tighten? The car runs fine, it is just a disconcerting load rattle upon first acceleration.
  • lily16lily16 Posts: 1
    We replaced the berrings and the seals, after that the jeep wouldn't start it acts like there is no gas going to the carb. everyone tells me its the comp. in it. others tell me its the injectors or the filters. or the brain. I wished someone who knows about 94 jeep cherokee sports could at least give me the right advise. Please help.
  • lmpjeeplmpjeep Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Jeep Liberty with a little over 20,000 miles. I was told that the front brakes are 75-80% gone and would need new front brakes at my next oil change. This seems a bit soon to me. Anyone have any similar issues? LMP
  • As you all know the Antenna on the Liberty is not one that goes up and down. What do you all do when you go to the car wash??? Last time I went to the car wash, the brushes almost ripped the antenna off. Is there a way to easily take the antenna off and then replace it after the car wash? Thanks for your responses!!
  • I am considering leasing a new 2004 Grand cherokee limited 4x4 for 36 months.
    After viewing this message board and many others, I am having second thoughts.
    I see reviews of many people having problems.
    What are the major problems to watch out for?
    Are most repairs covered under warranty?
  • My J Sport is about to turn 143K. It has an inline 6c 4.0L A/T 2WD. I change the motor oil every 3000 miles. I never changed the A/T fluid-some say do some say don't. The tranny is getting a bit rough from park to first, and somewhat noticable from first to second. Some say change the A/T fluid, some say fluid and filter, while others say leave it alone until the tranny goes. I'd much rather hear advice from a JEEP owner as to what I should do about this impending tranny doom. Thank you for your responce.
  • srocks4srocks4 Posts: 13
    I own a '94 4.0L AT 4x4 with 115k, I've changed the AT fluid/filter 3 times during its life. I change it because its lubes moving parts and heat breaks down fluids. I can't give any facts on whether its good or not, I just do it and don't see the harm in not.
  • src48084src48084 Posts: 7
    Okay so my Wrangler X with 19,777 miles suddenly has this yellow engine light glowing in the instrument panel. I panic. And the manual says it could be anything from gas cap not in place to more serious issues. I call Jeep dealer. He tells me sure they'll run a diagnostic (cost $80) and if it's a defect Jeep pays if not too bad I do. Well, seems a bit unfair to pay $80 to find out if something is covered under warranty or not. Anybody have the little yellow engine light come on and not go off. Do I really have to pay the $80? Also, I did forget to put the gas cap on when I left the gas station and put it on when I parked the car.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Relax and take a deep breath... The OBD II system is just doing it's thing, which happens to be detecting and identifying faults within the emission control system. Since you DID forget to install the fuel filler cap the CEL will likely extinguish itself after several start/stop cycles. If the CEL does remain on, simply drop by a local Autozone and they will read your TJ's trouble code(s) at no cost. Once you obtain that data you can check with the dealer to see if the fault is covered under warranty.
  • devo75devo75 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Cherokee, and I'm having a tough time with my electric window on the passenger side. The thing will go down very slowly, but won't go back up. The three other windows are working fine. When I try to raise the window from the driver side control, the light on the passenger side control goes off like it's locked. I tried to muscle it up by hand, but I didn't have any luck and I sure as heck didn't want to break the window. Any thoughts???
  • jeepkidjeepkid Posts: 2
    I recently rotated my tires, and now sometimes when i go to brake i get a violent shake, i never experienced the problem before the rotation. is there any suggestions as to what i should do, it is a 96 jeep cherokee 5-speed manual.
  • ricardonricardon Posts: 2
    What's the best way to clean these wheels? Stock wheels on a 2004 JGC Rocky Mtn Edition.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Eagle One 2n1 Tire/Wheel cleaner.
  • udornvetudornvet Posts: 2
    I just returned from the dealer Friday from getting a trans service, filter, etc...He recommended changing the spark plugs, so I told him I would do it myself, since he was going to charge me $70.00 to replace them ...Well on returning home I took a quick look under the hood to see what was so special about these plugs...Well, it seems I cannot even find them!! Does anyone here have any experience in changing these culprits, and know where they are. They must be behind, or under something...Been working on cars since 1968 or so, and I've never seen plugs so well hidden...

    Thanks ;)
  • udornvetudornvet Posts: 2
    Just figured it out on another site...

    They don't even look the same as a conventional older spark plug wires, plus they are underneath a special square looking cover which has 10mm nuts securing it down on the plug...Not too bad a job, but you just have to remove a few things to get to them, without doing any damage to surrounding components, and electrical connectors...

    Question now is, is it worth saving the $70.00 to do it myself?
  • baddog8360baddog8360 Posts: 4
    All I can say is I have put over 180K miles on my '97 Wrangler and its still running strong. About 10% of those miles have been offroad [the beach and the mountains]. The rest have been city driving and long highway commutes. I have had two problems. One the exhaust manifold cracked, which I found out later was a problem inherent with the 97 Wrangler. Cost me about $170US for the re-designed replacement and about three hours work to replace it out. The second was a burned out rear bearing, my fault for not paying attention when I had the gear oil changed @ 100K miles. The folk at the "quickie lube" store didn't re-tighten everything. Cost to repair was about $150US for the parts and getting the bearing pressed on. But again the later problem was due to my stupidity and would have happened no matter what type of vehicle I owned.
    Overall, I am very pleased with the reliability of my 97 Wrangler, wouldn't trade it for anything. If you know of a good mechanic to make sure the fluids are changed on schedule or better yet you can do it yourself, I don't think you could find a more reliable vehicle. Especially one that is so fun to drive.
    By the way, the folks who questioned the wrangler's reliability, did they actually ever own a jeep? :)
  • baddog8360baddog8360 Posts: 4
    First thing I would do is drive the Cherokee slowly, about 10 to 15 mph, for a about a mile or so. Not using the brakes. Try to notice if you have any vibration in the steering. If you don't feel any vibration, try going slow and LIGHTLY slow down. Do you feel the vibration? Have the front brake rotors checked. They can become slightly warped and may need to be turned down a bit. Many tire stores also do brake work and have the ability to check and repair this without having to replace the rotors. If you notice the vibration while you are "just driving" or when you are braking while in a turn, have the front end lubed and then drive it to see if that fixed the problem. If not have the front-end, ball joints and such, checked out.Good Luck!
  • baddog8360baddog8360 Posts: 4
    Don't own a Liberty, but most fixed antennas can be unscrewed at the base. You might need a pair of pliers to get it loosened up first. I keep the antenna on my Wrangler finger snug all the time, so that when I need to remove it I don't need my pliers. Just make sure it is actually hand tight and not wobbling before you drive off.
  • Hi Y'all!
    I've got a quick question I was hoping to get some help with...I've got a 01 Sahara and I recently noticed the thread (seam) above the zipper on my side window is almost completely unraveled :cry: At this point the window is only being held up by the zelcro!! I'm so bummed!
    What's my best option to get this fixed?? Should I look into getting a new soft top or can it be rethreaded?? Does anyone know how much that would cost...and last but not least how to I keep this from happening again????
    Thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!
    ;) d
  • Does anyone know what is going on? This is not normal, and it does not happen ALL the time, but it is happening more and more frequently. Very scary! When I accelerate to get on the highway, at about 50-55 mph, my 02 Wrangler X shakes violently, until I reach 60 or so. Does anyone know why? Is it safe to drive? I am nervous to take it to a dealer, because they always think they can charge me more because i am a girl. But I need to know if this is dangerous or not. If you have any ideas, please, please let me know.
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