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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,693
    your guess is a good one bolivar.
  • I have a 1996 Ranger, 2.3L 4 cyl. when I take off, it feels real sluggish, and has little power. Once I am going, it is fine. I had it hooked up to a computer, and it showed It was a bad EGR valve, but I changed it just a couple months ago. could anyone help me with this problem?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,693
    Did you clean the tube that feeds from the EGR into the manifold?
  • tstotlertstotler Posts: 3
    I have a 98 ranger that has an intermittent problem. Very rarely, right after I start it and pull out, the first time I touch the brakes they grab real hard. The rears skid and the fronts grab hard, it is like I slammed on them. When this happens the peal resistance goes way down, lower than normal. It forces everyone to slide forward in their seats. After that first skid, it won't do it again. I thought this was very strange. Any thoughts???
  • glenntcglenntc Posts: 1
    I am buying a 2000 Ranger (2.5L, automatic, 2WD) tomorrow if it checks out mechanically. Is there anything in particular I should look for? My understanding is that these are basically good trucks.

    Thanks
  • bpwilsonbpwilson Posts: 1
    I had the same thing happen to my 2003 Ranger. I just washed the truck and the brakes get a layer of flash rust which increases the coef. of friction. It will be fine after a few (careful) brake applications. This is not unusal, particularly with drum brakes.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Yep, Ranger rear drum brakes are well known for 'grabbing'. This can happen just overnight, in damp, rainy weather. Some people have indicated a reduction after new shoes are used. But others have said no matter what kind of brake shoes, they had grabbing.

    What I did - just after getting moving, test the brakes. If they grab, then just 'ride' the brakes, gently engage the brake and with the left foot and keep moving for a hundred feet or so. This will remove overnight rust and heat up the shoes, driving off moisture. They will not grab any more.

    I see no reason grabbing brakes should effect the pedal resistance or how far they go down. You might have another problem. If you have a brake fluid leak in a wheel cylinder, brake fluid leaking on a brake shoe can also cause it to grab. This usually will not 'go away' but will continue to grab even after driving it. Lay down and look at the inside of the rear wheel. If it is leaking much, you should be able to see the dark stains from the brake fluid. If this is your problem, take it to a shop unless you know how to change the wheel cylinder and then remove the air from the brake lines.
  • jrmccoyjrmccoy Posts: 1
    Rich,

    I am the poster child for this problem...exactly as described... '94 Ford Ranger-intermittant, fuel pump won't prime as per normal but engine will crank/turnover (not start and run) when I turn the key...aggravated by warm weather...I've been dealing with this problem 2 years. I won't stay broken long enough to diagnose, but will stay broken long enough to strand me all over town. I've changed the fuel pump, bypassed the inertia switch (taken it out completely) so looking like you for solution. I was interested in earlier postings about the fuel pump relay switch...I havent bypassed it yet, but will try it. Have you come across a solution? Thanks, J.R. McCoy
  • 83ranger83ranger Posts: 2
    my 83 has the same problem,I'm still looking for the source, I'm checking for missing plugs, weatherstripping, loose nuts and bolts etc, if I find it I'll let ya know.
  • 83ranger83ranger Posts: 2
    I am stuck! I'm trying to replace gaskets and seals but can't get the oil pump off to remove the pan, according to 'chilton's' trere is only 1 nut and bolt, it still won't come off. any suggestions? :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, I think the 'fuel pump relay switch' is actually a relay. Kind of a fuse, but not exactly. But I think it is in the underhood 'fuse box' or right by it. The relay for the fuel pump can give intermittant problems. I would identify the relay for the fuel pump and put a new one in.

    I think there may be more than one relay in the box, and they are the same. Cheep diagnoistic - or get you going if you are stranded - switch the fuel pump one with one of the others. But you should replace a bad one.
  • I am kind of "dumb" when it comes to cars and working on them...so, how exactly would I clean the tube? Sorry, and thanks!
  • nienhnienh Posts: 3
    your door adjar switch in the latch is stuck. Lube up with latch with a spray that has a stork so you can stick the stork in the cracks. Then work the door a bunch and it should correct the problem.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,693
    well all car systems are different and I don't know your car at all...so you'll need to consult a workshop manual on ways to deal with the EGR system...I was just recalling how on some of the cars I owned the tube that feels the exhaust gases back to the manifold got all "coked" up. I had to remove it and ream it out.
  • cniemanncniemann Posts: 9
    I've got a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 and it pings under acceleration too. Dealer said same thing, inherent problem.
  • They are great trucks, but being Fords, they have there quirks. Alot of people have problems with the interior dome light and "Door Ajar" light staying on even when all doors are closed, and if you ever run the gas tank completely dry, I mean till the truck stops running, you will ruin the fuel pump and have problems with fuel for the rest of your life. And my alternator went out at about 70k miles, but it kinda happened after i hit a big bump while offroading O:) If you don't want to bring it to a dealer to work on, they are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to work on yourself, the engine compartment is pretty compact and its hard to reach anything. You can fix the interior light problem by spraying some kind of lube in the door latch, I used a silicon lubricant meant for garage doors but it worked great, then opening and closing the door, gently, a couple times to work it in. Other than that, great trucks.
  • you guys with fuel pump problems, this is prolly dumb since i'm not entirely sure how this all works, but there is a fuel pump kill switch in my 2003 ranger edge just under the dashboard on the passanger side, right by where someones feet would be. could it be possible that someone kicked that switch and now its loose or something? i've personaly never had this problem so i wouldn't know exactly.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    He said he's already wired around the 'inertia switch', which is what you are talking about.

    In general, not a good idea. This switch is there to shut the fuel pump down, and the associated flow of gas out of the tank, in case of an accident.
  • I am in the middle of taking my tank out for a similar reason. I'm guessing road salt has sat up there and rotted out the line or the gasket. What am I about to find? thanks dw
  • Good luck thanks
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