Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1103104106108109147

Comments

  • wanni01wanni01 Posts: 1
    I am sorry I don't really have a Ford Ranger. I have just purchased a 1999 Mazda B4000 with 100,000mi and I was told that it is the exact same truck as a Ranger. I was wondering if anyone of you has ever replaced the instrument lights. I couldn't reach from under to get to the bulbs. It looks like I will have to take the whole cluster out. Are there any tricks in removing the instrument cluster? Please help.
  • brently1brently1 Posts: 9
    Hello I have a 2000 4.0L V6. I have been hearing a noise that sounds like a can of pop opening when I shut the engine off. If I listen closely I also hearing a boiling gurgle noise....anyone know what this might be? I have checked alot of my vacuum lines with little success. I also seem to have a metalic knocking noise coming from the engine. i only have 72,000km original on the engine. anyways I hope someone can help me out.

    Brent
  • junktruckjunktruck Posts: 2
    Rangerboy,
    I think I'm a little closer to solving our problem. I started thinking it might be caused by the distributor or ignition coil--I found out I have a distributorless ignitions system(I think yours does as well?) so I replaced the coil--It didn't fix it; but, the wiring harness that goes into the side of the coil pack maybe the problem... I'm thinking the problem is electrical because when I tested to see if the coil was bad, or had become sesitive to water (dew, rain, humidity, etc.) I sprayed water in the engine compartment as a test(shielding the battery and distribution box)... As soon as I did this it had the same problems starting each time I wet the engine (I then dried it and reperformed the test). As I began to think out the problem, the starter works and gets power, but the coil pack doesn't always have power; so, I think the wiring between the two has shorted out with age. Later I am going to try wiggling the wires with the engine running to see if it has a short and dies. What do you think?
  • 4banger44banger4 Posts: 3
    Hi I am a new ranger owner 99 2.5 5speed with 77k the check engine light came on is there a way to clear codes without scan tool can I use a obdII scanner from pep boys to read and clear codes or is this basicaly a dealer only thing also any common problems that turn light on any help is geat just got it last week from a used car dealer I know but I was in a bind
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    4Liter motors usually do not ping. 3Liter motors do, and little can be done about it.

    4L pinging is caused many times by loose lower intake manifold bolts. Tightem then up. Many times the motor will also be using oil. Tightening bolts may reduce oil usage.

    Clean the MAF sensor (or replace it) might also help.

    White smoke and vanishing transmission fluid indicated a vacuum modulator valve is bad - a hole in the diaphram and tranny fluid is being pulled up the vacuum hose and burned in the engine. The valve is on the transmission, right side, up high. One bolt usually holds it on, with a rubber and steel vacuum line going to it.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Removing the battery negative cable for a couple minutes will probably reset the error code.

    Of course, if there is a problem, driving the vehicle a short distance usually re-sets the 'check engine' light.

    Get it fixed.

    Autozone, etc can scan ODBII.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Are you running the air conditioner? If so, immediately after shutting the motor down, the AC system will balance the pressure across the entire system. When this is happening, with high pressure moving to lower pressure, you will be able to hear hiss and gurgles for about a minute or less.

    If you have air in the cooling system, this can also cause knocks, gurgles, hisses, etc. If your radiator cap is functioning correctly, this air should be expelled and water pulled back into the motor to replace the air. When I drained, flushed, refilled antifreeze in my 94 4L, it never had any problem purging air from the system. I just checked the level of antifeeze in the overflow bottle after a few days and topped it off if needed. If you do not have antifreeze in the overflow, then you probably have air in the radiator and rest of the system.

    4L motors of about your year are known for a 'marbles in tin can' noise while at idle. I've read lots of complaints about this, with never hearing a definitive cause of the noise. It seems like lots of them did this, many with only a very few miles on them, and Ford did nothing about it. And I've not known of many real failures from the noise.

    Of course, you might have a rod bearing knocking and are about to need a motor rebuild.....
  • alanbnalanbn Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Just bougth a used Ranger year 2000. I thought the battery was weak because it would go dead on me if I left it for more than a day or 2. I replaced the battery and it is doing the same thing. Something seems to be draining the battery... :confuse:
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I read on this site about others getting this DPFE error code on their Rangers. My CHECK ENGINE lite came on so I took it to A Z and Auto Zone read the codes for me and said the DPFE sensor was the problem. This is the 3.0L V6 Flexfuel engine.
    I removed the sensor, and blew the lines out going back to the EGR main tube. They were clear. I removed the ground cable from the battery to reset the CPU. I sprayed carb cleaner into the inlet tubes of the sensor and let it soak a few minutes while shaking it around a bit. Then I drained the fluid out of the sensor and used a small air compressor to blow the chambers dry. I re-installed the sensor, connected the tubes and started the truck up for a test run. NO MORE CHECK ENGINE LITE!! It looks like this issue is resolved for now.
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Yes, any obdII scanner will read the codes and clear them. Really too many variables to try to get into posting common codes. After you read them, post them here and someone should be able to offer advice.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    junktruck,
    I've been getting a humming sound under the hood. I'm going to clean/and or change my idle air control unit. I don't know if this could cause my truck not to start on occasion or not! We'll find out! :confuse:
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    that little 'fix' on the DPFE sensor didn't last to long. The engine still had that little roughness at 40mph and a bit of a rough idle.

    Ended up having to replace the metal DPFE sensor with the newer version plastic model to the tune of $100. Couldn't get it anywhere except the FORD dealer. Wow that's a racket, a little plastic part for $100. Well if it fixes the problem....I guess its worth it!?
  • brently1brently1 Posts: 9
    What would cause a rod bearing to fail a low kilometres? I have babied it when it comes to oil changes? would i find and evidence in the oil during an oil change? anyway of finding if it is an actual rod bearing?

    Thanks

    Brent
  • karl17karl17 Posts: 2
    i have a 92 ranger 3.0 auto w/od. only 57000 miles its a great truck. but it wont let me go over 80mph 4000 rpm. in 3rd or/od. cruising at 70 in /od it wont hold speed going up smallest hill. it will redline first two gears 5600 rpm.
    no codes. it runs good . just not at highway speeds. any ideas. thanks in advanced karl17
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm not enough of an experienced 'hands on' mechanic to help with diagnoising a rod bearing failure. Except, I would think that if this is the problem, it would rapidly get worse. A good mechanic, not one that just changes brakes and plugs, might be able to tell you if it is a rod bearing.

    I still think it might be the mysterous 'marble rattles' from this generation of 4L Rangers....
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Somewhere in the low or mid 80's is where the speed governor kicks in. It's a truck, it isn't designed to go fast.

    Do you have oversized tires on it? If so, this will reduce your top speed and reduce your torque also, which is what you are seeing.
  • 4banger44banger4 Posts: 3
    I had the codes read on my 99 cyl 5 speed an it was egr flow the guy at advance told me to clean the tube from egr to throttle I did this but the light came back today I found the sensor with 2 tubes from the exh manifold tube to egr (poor discription) the bracket for this sensor was broken and sensor was hanging upside down the sensor has an arrow labled up finaly my question could this sensor being upside down cause a faulse reading and turn the check engine light on? :confuse:
  • karl17karl17 Posts: 2
    no original sizes 215/70/14 its my wifes truck.
    i just hate driving it cause you got to keep your foot in it to cruise the interstate. i have 97 aerostar will run up to 95 easy not quite 100 wide open. its doing 5100 rpm at about 95.
  • jjbeano1jjbeano1 Posts: 1
    Hello! I have a 92 Ranger XLT. Today it took me about 15 minutes to actually start, and tonight I tried it again, but it did not start (gave up after 5 mins). This problem seems as though it's been building up. Started months ago, but it's unreasonably bad now.
    This is what happens:

    Turn the key to first position
    Dashboard lights come on (everything ok)
    Push key forward to start truck
    Hear ONE click
    Dashboard lights still on, but engine will not crank

    Used to only take about 5 - 10 turns of the key before the engine would actually crank. When it DOES start to crank, no problem. Engine starts right up, with a little gas it idles fine, and don't have to worry about anything else.

    Today it literally took me about 15 minutes of turning the key to get the engine to start cranking. As soon as it cranked, truck started up fine. What is preventing the engine from getting to the crank stage?

    Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Thanks!
  • landdriverlanddriver Posts: 607
    Had identical problem with my '83 Toyota pickup. Turned out the carbon contact brushes in the starter motor got oil on them (the engine had an oil leak, coating the engine compartment with oil film) which over time resulted in them no longer making contact with the commutator contacts. Try tapping the starter motor with a hammer to see if that has any effect. Solution is to replace the starter motor (tried replacing the carbon brushes and filing down the commutator contacts, but problem returned after a short while). Problem could also be something else but the starter motor is a likely culprit.

    (Years later got another oil leak in the engine compartment which wasn't fixed in a timely manner and as a result had to replace the alternator. Moral: fix those oil leaks!!)
Sign In or Register to comment.