Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1105106108110111147

Comments

  • bruce24bruce24 Posts: 3
    I have a 96 Ranger splash with the 4 liter engine./ While driving the other day in the rain, the wipers stopped working and I then noticed that the speedometer and odometer stopped working also. I then noticed the dome light would not come on. I think I smelled smoke and ALL the fuses test good. They must have some lousy design for all this to happen at once and the fuses not blow. :mad:
  • danf2danf2 Posts: 5
    I WOULD LIKE TO PUT NEW FLUID IN MY POWER STEERING ON MY 2000 Ranger, 3.0.

    Where is the best place to drain it( What line to loosen?) and is there anything in particular to be careful about?
    Thanks, Dan
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My opinion: I would not open it up to just replace the fluid. The fluid is a non-maintenance item, and the pump seals will usually fail at 10 years, 150,000 miles or so anyway and you will be replacing the whole pump.

    If you still want different fluid in there, buy the cheapest turkey baster you can find and suction all you can get out of the fill hole, and refill. This will probably get 60%+ of the fluid out. Start it up for a couple minutes and have another go with the baster - this will further dilute the old fluid when you add more new.

    Or, get a couple of feet of small plastic clear tubing, hold it in a U shape and fill with new fluid using a small funnel. Cork one end, then quickly stick the other end into the fill tube, to the bottom. Put the corked end lower, into a container, and syphon the fluid out.
  • chrisducatichrisducati Posts: 394
    We just bought a 2001 Ranger XL short bed for my teenage son. A guy at work has one just like it. I asked him what kind of mpg he got and he said his 2.3L gets 25mpg. I said wait a second. Ours has a 2.5L engine. So we opened the hood on his and sure enough his has a different engine all together. Ours has 8 spark plugs, two for each cylinder one on each side of the head. His has four plugs down the center and looks like a Mazda engine. When did this change occur? :confuse:
  • landdriverlanddriver Posts: 607
    Midway in the 2001 model year they replaced the 2.5L SOHC 4cyl engine (commonly referred to as the lima as it was manufactured in lima Mexico) with the 2.3L DOHC 4cyl engine (commonly referred to as the duratec due to its dual overhead cam). You have the lima, your friend has the duratec. Both are good engines. :shades:
  • martinlwmartinlw Posts: 7
    Does Ford have any bumper restoration products that would match the original color of my 2001 Ranger's bumpers? I'd rather not use a generic product that will dye the bumpers a true black.
  • danf2danf2 Posts: 5
    OK, I got the little syphon thingy and siphoned all the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and refilled it. In fact I did this 3 times and used up one bottle of power steering fluid. This brings me to the next question. Why is the stuff I am siphoning out "RED" and the stuff in the Prestone power steering bottle that says "For all Ford and General Motors products",(CLEAR!)
    Should the old stuff thats been in there for 6 years be Red? Does it have to be replaced by "Motorcraft" The Prestone fluid is clear. Is it OK to mix them?
    Thanks, Dan
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Did you check your manual?

    (Jee, how many times have I written that???)

    Some power steerings use transmission fluid, which is red.

    Some use a unique fluid.

    'General purpose' fluid might be????????

    20/20 hindsight - if you were going to all this trouble, you sure should have checked the manual and used what they specified.

    Ok, power steering is usually forgiving about what you mix into them. You will probably be ok.
  • Where do I start troubleshooting a none-working fuel gauge and temp guage?
  • texcoptexcop Posts: 2
    Did you ever get an answer to what caused this problem? My '94 Mazda did the exact same thing tonight.
  • texcoptexcop Posts: 2
    Last night I got in my truck and noticed that my ABS light was flashing (15 times). I also had no dash lights. I read post #1940 where someone else was experiencing this same problem. One thing they had noticed was that they had no tail lights. Same is now true for me. Does anyone have an idea of what is wrong? I'd like to fix the problem myself if it's possible.

    Any help appreciated,
    Jason
  • rwl1953rwl1953 Posts: 4
    I have been driving my father in laws 87 Ford Ranger after the truck sat for a while. I replaced the tires, belts, and brakes. I had planned to replace the plugs and the plug wires. I also had the oil changed in it. After driving it around town on short trips- 5 to 8 miles I took it to the next town over about 15 miles. Speeds up to 65 miles an hour. Started to hear the lifters clicking after 14 or 15 miles. Looked down and I had no oil pressure and truck was heating up. Parked the truck immediately at my brothers house. Let it sit for about 15 minutes. I started it and the oil pressure was still not there and there was the clicking noise. Turned it off and got a ride home. Left the truck with my brother and he called about ten minutes ago after truck had sat there all day and said he cranked it and the pressure came up fine. Ran it about 5 minutes on idle and the noise started again and the pressure started to go down. Is this an oil pump problem or maybe engine sludge since the truck sat for a while?

    Thanks

    RWL
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Some Rangers of about this age, and 4 cylinder (I think) have a strange problem.

    The gasket on the oil pan deteriates and pieces of it fall apart into the inside of the oil pan. After enough pieces get in there, the pieces will clog the opening or screen for the oil pump pickup. Enough to significantly slow down the oil flow and cause the problem you see.

    The oil pan needs to be dropped and the crap cleaned off the oil pump pickup. And a new gasket of course. Or, I have heard about a process where people have tried to pump large amount of kerosene or some such solvent into the oil drain hole and attempt to wash out the gasket pieces.

    I would try to drop the oil pan. I think it can be done on a 4 banger without pulling the engine. On V6's I think the motor has to be pulled, or at least lifted significantly.

    Check back and tell us what you find out....
  • i drive a 1990 Ford Ranger and i have had it for about 3 months. today i was drivin it and all of a sudden the tach shot up to 5000 RPM and then dropped until it read 0 RMP's. the truck will start and drive, but only goes about 10-15 MPH. if someone could help me, that would be fantastic
  • I need to remove my headliner in my 1998 Ranger and wondered what the steps are and any advice. I want to reinstall the old one after I run some wiring. All help is appreciated.
  • Most of us are getting murdered these days with gas prices and the poor mileage of our 4.0 4WD Rangers. Has anyone swapped out the 4.11 ring and pinion for a 3.55? If so, what were the mpg results and the effects on performance?HTanks, Steve
    G.
  • danf2danf2 Posts: 5
    The rubber grease seals or boots or whatever they are called on my 2000 Ford Ranger lower ball joints are cracked and otherwise useless. A guy at the auto parts store told me that some people repair them with silicone rubber, so I gave it a shot I put big blob of rubber around the ball joint and let it dry and then bought a needle adapter for my grease gun and squirted grease in till I saw the rubber expand. Is there better quick fix for these things My Ranger has no zerks, Looks like someone would have come up with a wrap around rubber gadget to fix these cracked rubber seals.
  • The check engine light keeps coming back on after having it reset and the speedometer just stopped working today on my 2000 Ranger HELP!! :cry:
  • big_bry20big_bry20 Posts: 1
    Transmission began acting funny, all of a sudden completely lost clutch and couldn't shift (wouldn't disengage). Hadn't lost any fluid, no linkage problems (as there really are no linkages). But this was only momentary. Went back a couple days later, tried it again, clutch engages and disengages, but the rig shifts somewhat harder and less smooth. Been told the slave cylinder may be shot, and that I may as well junk the truck as it is not an easy fix as most other vehicles would be. Has anybody experienced similar problems? If so, what is it? Advice PLEASE!!!
Sign In or Register to comment.