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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    I saw your posting is from a month ago...haven't been on here much lately, but if this helps...
    I had a Dodge Dakota doing the same thing about 3yrs ago. Would rev very high then not go over 15mph. I thought I had lost my transmission, but it turned out to be my catylitic converter had dropped a chunk of "something" inside itself and clogged the venting process. After a lift on the tow truck the piece of "something" fell free and the truck ran fine. Tow guy didn't believe me, I think he thought I just wanted to be towed and pay him $50!
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    My '95 Ranger doesn't want to start maybe 1 in 10 times. I'll mess around with the relays and other things on the driver's side. A short time later it will start fine. I don't know if it might be a solenoid or what? It's electrical because sometimes when it's turning over and doesn't start the power door locks will engage and disengage? Has me stumped! :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Is it cranking and not starting?

    If so, turn key ON without starting and listen for the fuel pump to run. It should run for a few seconds.

    If it doesn't start, I would check the fuel pump relay. Then, the pump itself might be going out.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Yeah, it's cranking but doesn't start. I found out yesterday whenever I would jiggle the power distribution box it would start. I had the truck taken to the ford shop not too long ago and I think they had checked my relays. Maybe, the fuel pump relay was just in the process of getting bad. I don't know if it could be something in the wiring maybe in that area or not. Really strange when the power locks go on and off between trying to start. Has me baffled! Which relay is the fuel pump relay I've lost my owner's manual.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    There are apparently many things that can give you these codes (lean fuel mix bank one and bank two). First could be the MAF sensor, which you can clean by taking apart the vent going to the air filter and spraying non-residue, fast-drying electrical cleaner on the fine wires of the sensor.
    But what ended up fixing my truck is both O2 sensors were bad. Just thought I'd let someone else know what all to begin checking if you get these codes.
  • frieberg44frieberg44 Posts: 33
    This is just for the good of the order. I experienced the infamous "ABS light" that wouldn't go off. This is often due to a failed rear axle sensor that works by magnetic inductance off of the ring gear of the differential. This light being on means that the ABS braking system has been disabled, pending a repair. I obtained the ABS sensor from my Ford dealer (about 25 bucks). I gambled that this in fact was the problem (and, voila, it WAS indeed !). This sensor is located on the very top of the rear differential, held by a single 10 mm bolt. Because I don't have a lift, it was easier for me to get access to it by removing the right rear wheel (I was then able to get my left arm through the frame/spring area to help position the ratchet). First, disconnect the connector (DO NOT damage the wiring !), then remove the bolt (first soak it with WD-40). Then, GENTLY insert a thin pry bar under the molded plastic flange on the sensor, and pry up (on both sides if you can). It will resist coming out due to an integral O-ring seal. It should then pop out. Simply reverse the procedure, and your ABS system will hopefully be back online ! This will save you about a 100 dollar bill from your Ford dealer.
  • pc2368pc2368 Posts: 1
    My friends and I have had this problem. Spray WD-40 in the latch on the door. The sensor gets sticky and the WD-40 will free it. I haven't had the problem in 2 years after applying it.
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    I have a '97 ranger, with the auto 4x4 hubs. the system is acting up on me. the right front hub will neither engauge, or diengauge completly. because of this, i never use the 4x4 to aviod damaging the front hub, it is still in excellent shape. but if i use it, it bangs and grinds while i turn. i looked at the system. and i have figured out that there is not easy way to find out what the problem is. I DONT NEED TO BUY NEW HUBS. the old ones are fine. i took it to the dealer under warrenty, and they wouldn't fix it because,"There is not a thing wrong with it." this is bull, because the trucks front end shouldn't be flying up into the air when i try to use 4wd and turn at 20 mph without hitting anything that would launch me into the air. The problem is really annoying, because, the one time i had it stuck, i couldn't engauge 4wd, which would have cleared the problem. intead, a murcurey sable pulled me out, now with a damaged pride, i ask you. HOW DO I FIX IT?
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    The relay your looking for is next to the 2 diodes and a resistorit's reather large, and is on the passenger side. it's the only relay without relays next to it. if that helps.
  • randyacerandyace Posts: 96
    Hope I'm on the right board; if not, I'm sure someone will re-direct me! ;)

    My 06 Ranger (Sport) has the raised "power dome" hood, with a tapering crease down the middle. I'm thinking of painting that area, both for looks and to break up the all-white hood, in a flat black finish.

    After prepping properly (masking, degreaser, etc), is it necessary to use a fine-grit sandpaper to rough-up the existing paint so the paint I want to apply with adhere better?

    I'm not experienced in paint/body work, but I believe this is something I'm capable of with a bit of advice.

    Thanks to all in advance!

  • landdriverlanddriver Posts: 607
    Not familar with automotive paint but have experience with painting speaker enclosures, kitchen appliances, etc.

    For sure you will need to abrade the glassy surface you're planning on painting. If it were me, after carefully masking the area with the shape you want, I'd try some steel wool first (buy different grades of coarseness); if this takes too long to dull the finish, then try sand paper. The tricky part will be near the edge of the masking tape -- you want to roughen-up the paint without deteriorating the line of the masking tape. Vacuum, move vehicle to enclosed area, wait ~half-hour for dust to settle, then while trying to not raise any dust carefully wipe area with a tack cloth (sticky cloth that will remove any remaining dust, available where paint is sold), and spray paint with good quality paint (Rustoleum "Stops Rust" in the white cans works great for speaker enclosures but not sure how well it would stand up to UV and washings; check-out an automotive paint supply house to see if they have anything in an aerosol) (if it were me I'd lean toward a semi-gloss instead of a flat). Remove masking tape right after painting and leave area until paint is dry.

    Also consider taking a photo of the truck with a digital camera and use photoshop to simulate the paint job to see if it seems to look ok (or just get a Ranger brochure and use a pencil or pen to shade the appropriate area).
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    Sand the area, first a dry sand, then a wet sand, down to the primer. Then apply two coats of the paint, let it dry wet, sand again (lightly, not through to primer), and apply one or two more coats.
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    Bum For a reply.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    Somebody throw some idea's my way this time please!!
    I took my '01 V6/4.0L SOHC Ranger to a local service shop. He used the ol' snap on to read what was going on with my check engine light. Got the codes above for lean fuel mix. So, we replaced both 02 sensors. Cleared the codes and hoped for the best. No change, light came back after roughly 22miles. It actually is running worse now than before. It idled very low and rough for a sec then stalled on me twice while going thru a drive-thru.
    I just purchased an MAF sensor and will be replacing that myself when it comes in(don't trust the mechanic that much if it isn't Ford itself...but very expensive!).
    Is there anything else this may be? The truck runs fine once going and is 90% running good at idle, but runs rough and stalls once in a while.
    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
  • randyacerandyace Posts: 96
    Many thanks for the two answers I received. Why didn't I think of using photoshop and take a picture first??? :confuse:

  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    If I'm sitting at my driver's seat looking forward. The power distribution box is on the driver's side in front of me. I've got three square relays together in a cluster. Two toward the front of the vehicle side by side and one on the right side toward me at the driver's seat. I went to an auto parts store and tried to figure out which relay was which, but there was no material that showed this. The guy told me to swap relays around when it doesn't start to determine which one is bad. I don't know if these relays are the same or not they have different numbers on them. Can I do this? These relays do look exactly the same except for the last four numbers. I also found out that there is an anti-theft relay. I have a feeling that this might be what's causing the problem instead of a fuel pump relay. Again the vehicle turns over but doesn't start at times. The door locks will engage and disengage when it's trying to start. I've been jiggling and messing with the relays and power distribution box and then the truck will eventually start. There is also a starter relay which is mounted to the wall of the engine compartment. The guy at the auto parts store seemed to think that this wasn't it if it would turn over like it does. Has me baffled! :confuse:
  • teh_jokerteh_joker Posts: 7
    DONT MESS AROUND WITH THE RELAYS! dont mean to yell, but would you stick a 100 watt light bulb in a 60 watt socet? (if you answered yes, OMG) Here is what you described. Two toward the front of the vehicle side by side and "one on the right side toward me at the driver's seat" thats the one, in quotes. Give me that number, and i will cross refence it to mine.
  • cniemanncniemann Posts: 9
    I run just a stock Radio Shack magnetic mount antenna on the roof just above the roof light and have good luck there.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Hey I think they are the same kind of relays! Napa has the same part listed for the anti-theft and fuel pump relays. The numbers on the relays starting with the one toward the front on the left is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1603, the one immediately to it's right is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1604, and the one closest to the driver on the right is FOAB 14B192-AA 4K03 1559. When I got done with my earlier post I went to drive off and the truck wouldn't start. I swapped the two on the right and it fired right up! I still need to figure out which one is which because I'm not sure which is bad or what they are to for that matter??? :D
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What about replacing all 3?

    Your Ranger should then be ready to give you another 11 years of relay service.
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