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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Right and left in cars is always as view when you are in the driver's seat.

    Right is the 'passenger' side'
    Left is the 'driver' side.

    You need a right manifold.
  • garycoxgarycox Posts: 59
    I just had new tires placed on my 2002 Ford Ranger, Goodyear 225/70/15 Republic Invader tires. It vibrated at high speeds with the old tires but they were worn anyway and needed replaced. The vibration continues with the new tires and the balance has been checked twice. I can feel it starting at about 50mph. It doesn't shake the steering side to side it seems more of an up and down sort of shake but it's hard to tell.

    Any ideas?
  • Aloha. My 2001 Ranger ABS light came on last week. It stayed on for about 5 miles and then when I turned the engine off and restarted it, it was off and stayed off...for about 8-10 miles, but then it came on and has stayed on ever since. The brakes seem to be working normally. A friend of mine took the truck's wheel off to visually check the brakes and he said that they looked OK. I called a repair shop and they said that I needed to take it to a dealer. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I do like the idea of having a braking capability when I drive.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    On older models with 2-wheel ABS, the light could come on when the brake fluid was low. Usually only when the brake was pushed.

    In any case, check your fluid level.

    ABS is complicated, requires different procedures to even 'pull the codes', etc. That probably why the shop did not want to work on it.
  • The first thing I did was check the fluid level and it was filled. The day before the light came on, I was pulling a trailer with a full 150 gal sprayer on some pretty rough uneven pot-holed roads (out here in lava land), so I thought maybe some indicator wire was jarred loose. I really hate to take the thing to the dealer because my wallet will more than likely go into shock.....but I also need to get my car fixed. The ABS light is illuminated all the time now...whether I am braking or not.
  • when I drive my truck for an hr or so it wont start right away...it needs 5 min or so to start again...VERY ANNOYING!
  • Check your relays!
  • 4x4rang4x4rang Posts: 2
    have an 03 rang(4x4 4.0L v6) and it makes a sort of clunking noise when i shift, mainly from 1st to 2nd. it only has 28k miles on it so i find it hard to believe the clutch is going already. just wanted to know if anyone else experienced this problem or knows the fix.
  • i am trying to change the fuel filter on my 2001 ranger. i think i have bought every fuel line dissconnet made and i still can not get the filter off. the end that faces the engine has too small of a neck to put a tool on. anyone else have this problem? i think the tool sizes for that are 5/15 and 3/8? i will greatly appreciate any help! thanks!!!
  • It takes a special tool to get inside the housing. It sounds like you might have got one already. You got to work at it pretty hard to get it off of there if it's like my 1995 Ranger. Should be a metal housing on the side facing the engine right?
  • i think the all the housings are pastic with colored clips inside them. the tool is supposed to slip in there and release the clips so you can pull it off. the one closest to the engine there is no way you can slip a tool to release that one. from the edge of the filter to the edge of the plastic housing there is like 1/4 inch to work w/. it doesn't seem like it should be this hard. please help if you can. thanks
  • I know it's a bear to get if off of there! The one toward the fuel tank has a clip that is plastic that I just used a pair of pliers to get it off with. The side toward the engine also has a keeper that is u-shaped and metal I believe. You got to get that off of there before you can work the special tool in the housing. I think I just used a flat head screwdriver and pliers on it. My filter is inside a grooved holder that holds it in place. I think I got it loose before I got the connection toward the engine removed I don't remember. I have a special tool with a rubber band that I slipped into the connection toward the engine and really slammed it into that housing repeatedly. I actually thought it broke when it finally released! I'm guessing the filters haven't changed much over the years but I might be wrong. Mine is metal and pretty good sized. I hope this helps.
  • Im a flooring guy...I dont know what a relay is....could you please tell me more ..thx for responding ...FRUSTRATED
  • landdriverlanddriver Posts: 607
    I'm a house renovator but will answer the best I can -- a relay is an electrically activated switch -- you supply current to it's coil, and the resulting magnetic field pulls one or a set of contacts so as to either make, or break, electrical contact. It's used in applications where it's impractical or dangerous for a relatively large electrical current to pass through a standard mechanical switch. An example is a car ignition switch where you turn the key to start the engine -- the current for the starter motor does not pass through the ignition switch -- rather, the ignition switch energizes the starter relay in the engine compartment, and the current for the starter motor passes through the relay contacts.

    :shades:
  • adoado Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger that has starting problem. when i start it up the rpm doesn't stay, it just dies. But if i step on the accelator before it dies there is a chance that the rpm would stay. sometimes i have to hold accelator for like 3-4 min to get normal rpm. if can sombody help me tx in advance
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A guess - you have 2 temperature sensors.

    1 is used for the temperature guage. I think this one has 1 wire to it.

    The second is used to tell the 'computer' if the water temp is 'warmed up'. In other words, is the motor hot or cold. I think this sensor is bad, and it has 2 wires to it. (These wires may be twisted together and one may be yellow/black stripe.) The computer thinks it is doing a hot start and does not increase the fuel thru the injectors, something that is needed on a cold start. After the motor does warm up, it run ok.
  • Hey, Mcann, i don't know if you fixed your problem already or not, but it is the IAC valve (idle air control). I had a 98 ranger 2.5L and had one go out, and have had 2 go out on my 2K ranger 2.5L

    Hope this helps

    GasGas321
  • Hey Ado,

    I had the same problems, and i believe you have the same problem as mcann. The idle air control valve controls idle, helping keep it up when cold, and down when warmed up
  • hey, i had a similar problem in my 2K ranger 2.5L my speed sensor in my rear diff. went out, and my abs kept turning on and the abs light was stuck on. I put a new one, and it still didn't fix it. I cleaned all of my blinker and brake light terminals in the front and back of the truck, and weird, but true, it fixed the abs light and problem. I had a bad ground, and it was grouinding backl through my abs.

    GasGas 321
  • Just an update, I replaced the Goodyear tires with Cooper made Mastercraft tires and they are running smooth. So the problem was with the Goodyear tires... Gary
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