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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The sensor drives the ABS and cruise control. Your problem may be this sensor, or some other part of the ABS, as the other poster also said.

    You might should pay the money and have the ABS error code/s read. If the ABS light is flashing, I would think there should be some codes being set. Reading the ABS codes is not as simple as reading out the 'check engine codes'. I think this system even has a plug separate from the plug where you plug in to get the check engine codes.

    So, either take the vehicle to a good mechanic, one that knows how to work on ABS brake system (which is much more complicated than non-ABS), or throw parts at the problem, such as the sensor in the differential or the ABS control box......
  • it's not my ABS light flashing, it was the O/D light but it's not flashing anymore and my truck does not have cruise control my problems are in the transmission as i stated in my origonal post, not brake problems
  • several years ago i had a garage in indiana i was a first class mechanic and never shortcut anything, and had been working on vehicles for more than 30 years and i also rebuilt transmissions then i became disabled and lost track of the new computerized vehicles. so i am not entirly stupid about cars and trucks. with help from one of my neighbors with the heavy work i rebuilt the engine in mt 97 ranger. the head is from a 93 i had to seal up a water port under the intake but it works fine.
  • i will try to explain the problem once again!
    with the O/D switch off i have forward gears and it shifts fine, but in reverse it will not move or slips badly--- with O/D switch on it will not move in drive or reverse i can pull the shift lever in 2nd it will move, it was an instant problem. the O/D light was flashing at one time but is not flashing at all now.! can any one tell me if the sensor on the drivers side of the transmission cause this problem? any help would be greatly apriciated!!!
  • I had the same on my 2000 B2500 Mazda(same truck) it kept pinging like you describe from ~80K to 128K when it was always pinging and then threw a CEL and shook like a wet dog, #3 cylinder was bad so new engine went in. It's been good now for 12K in 12 months, of course I also got a new vehicle at the same time so the B2500 doesn't get as many miles anymore (did another 26K on the new jeep and another couple on the wifes car on weekend getaways).

    That and a tranny solenoid are the only issues in 140k.

    BTW, I change oil and used synthetic 5-30 every 2500 miles since day one. I never expected a lower end problem! I figured it was the upper end at first....
  • i believe the first thing i would do is change the oil filter just to make sure you have good circulation before i go to extreams, there has been times i have had to change even new filters because they were defective.
  • Where is the inertia switch (fuel pump shut off) on a '94 Ranger with a 3.0 liter V-6. The Ranger was in a collision and I believe this has been tripped so that the vehicle doesn't want to start. I heard it was under the kick panel on the passenger side so I pulled that off and haven't been able to find it. :confuse:
  • I just scanned through all of the posts for the last year to find out about a pinging problem with my 3.0L. This site has answered a lot of questions, so I guess I should give something back. Anyway, I came across post 2285 (RE: Tranny Problems) that you might want to look at. I couldn’t find the original. Hope this helps.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's behind the upper edge of the carpet, on passenger side, but near the 'tunnel'. There should be a button to push to reset.
  • I just started having the same problem. I know that the unlock feature is supposed to be disabled after the truck is off (anti-theft) but mine has quit unlocking the doors altogether at anytime. However the passenger side still works. Have you found a solution yet?
  • My truck was doing that inconcsistently for some time. Eventually I found two vacuum leaks that were a result of hoses that the Dealership (Rusty Eck Ford, Wichita, KS) never hooked back up after warranty work. On was on the back of the left (Drivers) cylinder head on my 4.0 SOHC.
  • i decided to buy a tech book on my trans. at least i know what the problem is now. my truck is a 2 wheel drive and the tss sensor is what is causing my problem the only bad part is this sensor is inside mounted to the center support drum to bad this isn't a 4X4 they are mounted outside the transfer case. anyway i do apriciate the few replies i did get. by the way this book shows all the sensors and location for differant transmission problems i didn't realize that almost every sensor in this truck is somehow connected to the trans. circuit until i got this book, with the exception of the abs sensor in the differental this book covers mid to late 90's 4R44E,4R55E yall have a great day
  • i have a 94 ranger which i have had a clutch go in it. had a new clutch,slave cyclinder,pressure plate,and throw out bearing replaced....$800....... was told it's ready to go! picked it up...drove about a block and the throttle stuck.. i pulled over and shut it off. when i tried to restart it .it turned over but would not start. towed back to garage they got it started after about 3 hours(just started on it's own they don't know why or did anything to it)picked it back up drove about 5 miles with the throttle sticking(like cruise control) also when i went to shift engine tacked out and would gring the gears shifting.........stopped a store for coffee came out and would not start.........came back about 3 hours later started right up, but still the same problems with the throttle and the clutch......any help would be appreciated......... is this a mulitple problem or are they related? ps with the clutch in seems to be still in gear(on a hill can push the cluth to the floor,won't roll, take it out of gear , it rolls

    thanks in advance
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Why are you asking for advice here?

    Didn't all these problems started when they did the clutch job? Apparent when you drove the truck away from the shop?

    Sound like they messed up the throttle cable linkage, the clutch (hydrolic) isn't bled correctly, and who knows why it won't start.

    Demand they tow your truck back to the shop and they fix all these problems.
  • basically i'm here because the garage dosen't know what is wrong. i'm trying to get some info that might give them a clue. and no i just can't afford to take it to another garage. just looking for some suggestions from you pros
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,420
    Well it's THEIR problem...if the truck honestly ran and started well when it went in, then they can figure it don't have to. Every garage has a bad day, and this is theirs. Certainly the clutch problems are theirs to fix at no charge, and probably the throttle--they probably bent or misaligned something. As for the no start, it's possible this is a co-incidence and you two might have to work that out.


  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    you might look at some of the harness wires going down to the under side of the truck it is possible they might have pinched a wire causing it to short out when they installed the clutch and if they did they might have seen it and got it free but still can cause a problem.
  • The throttle sticking can be the problem of the no start. On most you can kill the ignition by opening the throttle. it cuts the signal to the coils when the throttle is all the way down before you start crank the engine.
  • I have a 94 Ford Ranger that after driving for 5 mins or so the volt guage on the dash go to a no charge condition as in it flutters back and forth and the head light and dash lights go dim when it stops charging. In thinking that the altenator was going south I installed a new one and had the same problem. Have been told that the plug going to the alternator, battery cables,ignition switch and brain box could all be going out. Engine temp makes no difference. If I shut off the truck and pull the key out it runs just fine after start up for about 5 mins
  • I replaced the switch and it fixed the problem. :) The switch in the passenger door and the remote switch worked (lock and unlock both), that is what told me the driver door switch was bad. It was somewhat intermittant prior to failing completely. Seems to me, it would also lock, but not unlock. Switch had to be bought from Ford, so it was pricy. Replacing it was much easier than I originally thought. It is snapped in place, two plastic springs, one on each end. I carefully slipped a putty knife under one end, put pressure on the spring, pulled up a little, then with a straight screwdriver under the putty knife, pushed the spring in. The switch popped right out in less than 30 seconds. Un-connect the connector, attach new switch and snap into place. Whole process took less time than getting the screwdriver and putty knife from the basement. If you are sure it is the switch, I suggest you buy one first, that will give you an idea as to where to apply pressure against the springs to pop it off. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, you don't want to break the plastic.

    Good luck! ;)
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