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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • A good place to start is the ground on the wiring harness. It might be making connection most of the time but I've seen electrical systems do weird things with a bad ground. Use that manual you just bought to find where the main wiring harness grounds. Check to make sure that connection is clean and secure, take a quick look at the wires to make sure none are corroded through. Also, call a local dealer that isn't the one you usually take your truck to. Ask for the service manager and pick his/her brains, tell them that you just had some service done out of town, you might be able to get some more info from them without taking your truck in. As a long shot, reset the electrical system, it might help. Turn the power off on all the accessory in the cab, disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and then power back up. Take your truck for a drive around the block a few times to reset the engine sensors. Like I said, it's a long shot, but hey, its free. Good luck!
  • I recently installed a pair of PIAA Platinum super white bulbs in my 2k1 Ranger. They are advertised as same watage/temp as stock. Apparently NOT-SO. Both of the reflectors in my headlights started to discolor. They got a blue like fog on them. I believe the bulbs are too hot for the plastic headlight reflector. I took them out and put the originals back. ($75 mistake). Oh well live & learn.
  • Yeah and honestly I have yet to see information that such upgrades produce better results than the stock bulbs with stock lenses.

    As many may not know, the pattern and distribution of the light is often the heavyweight in determining the visibility you have when driving. Generally speaking, the wattage of the bulb can be insignificant when it comes to the technology behind the lense.

    John
  • Ok, if you have read my previous complaints on my lemon, I mean truck, you'll know where I'm coming from. My clutch now shakes when starting in first gear, now, I am well aware of how to drive a stick, and no, I don't ride the clutch. The truck has less than 10k miles. Any ideas? I am taking it to a service department next week, I am going to leave it there and refuse to take it back until something is fixed. Any tips you can give me of something like this has happened to you? Thanks!! P.S. even with the bad clutch, I can still blow the doors off the "Extreme" S-10, just thought you ford fans would appreciate that.
  • I guess the Extreme s-10 has the 4.3l right? I believe that's been around a while, and is probably outdated. While the new 4.0l SOHC v6 for Ranger... and a stick... well ...
  • Thanks to the folks here for all the info and TSB data on the driveline clunking problem. Armed with the TSB and 8 pages of clipped discussions I went to the local Ford dealer with my 98 Ranger 4x4 Supercab with 46,000 miles. After much debate, they agreed to replace my driveline with the aluminum model at no cost. Thanks to everyone who frequents this site for your help.
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    The center armrest/console is now hanging to one side and getting looser with time. As far as I can tell, one broken bolt in the bracing mechanism is to blame. I know this is a fairly common problem, and the dealer quoted me almost 300 dollars for repairs, saying the whole thing had to be replaced. I see no point in spending that much on an OEM interior part, especially when I could get lots of nice aftermarket ones for about the same or less. The design of it seems junky anyway, doesn't seem securely enough attached to the seat to bear that much weight.

    Anybody found a cheaper fix? And if not, can anyone point me to where I could get a good deal on an aftermarket console that would fold up like this one when not in use?
  • I drive a 98 Ford Ranger 3.0L with manual transmission When driven in city traffic for about 15 minutes, it starts to exhibit this behavior. When the clutch is engaged while stopping, the engine RPM jumps to 3000. When the clutch is released, the RPM drops back to a normal level. This continues until I turn the engine off and re start it. After re starting the engine, it's good for another 30 minutes or go before the excessive high rpm re occurs. Obviously 3000 RPM without a load is not a good thing for the engine. I've taken this problem up with my Dealers Service Mgr without success. He claims that the Ford Motor Company has no fix and there is nothing that can be done about it. There's a TSB which refers to this problem and the Service Manager is hiding behind that.
    Just curious, have any other Ford Ranger owners experienced this kind of problem?
  • Well, I want to thank all of you for your help with my clutch. I think I have it fixed for good this time. I am trading it and taking delivery of a 01 F150 tonight. With any kind of luck I wont have any problems and I can erite all kinds of good things on here. Thanks again, and keep on truckin'
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    What engine do you have in your 98 Ranger ?? Does it have a 5 speed auto ?
    I have considered what an aluminum drievshaft might do for my vibrating 2000 4.0 V6 4x4 XLT model. Does the aluminum shaft fit ANY long wheelbase Ranger model ? Do you happen to know the part number ? Also, did that relpacement include a new splined slip-joint shaft (and rubber boot) coming out of the tranny ?
  • My aluminum Transmission has be over hauled 2 times. First time was about 10k, and the second time was about 28k.
    I dont know if this to be true or not but I was told they had alot of TBS problems out of the 1998 model Rangers and they also discontinued the type of transmission we have in these 98 models. Doe anyone here know about this. Is there any f150 owners here that know about the TBS on the new f150.
  • Probably was an automatic? Is there a part or identification number you could include to help the rest of us? I had to replace my 93 transmission once at around 122,000 Miles. If you have a manual, make sure you don't ride the clutch and fully disengage the drivetrain before shifting. Also no eats up manual's like power shifting and improper RPM engagement.

    If you do have an automatic I really recommend everyone do their yearly maintenance, otherwise known as a transmission filter replacement. That puts new fluid in and greatly extends the life of any automatic.

    Of course the 5 speed manual is much more tried and true, so that's what my next truck will have. Hopefully the new 5 speed automatic can give it a run for it's money.
  • I have heard from a few people that Ford Ranger's with the 3.0 litre V6 ping. I have a 2001 REG. CAB EDGE with the V6. It only has 5300 km's on it. It seems to be running great, but it's to early to tell I guess. Also has anyone heard of any other serious problems with the EDGE? I just got my truck in August and so far I notice there is a huge difference compared my 94 Ranger with the 2.3LTR 4 Cylinder.
  • The pinging is more or less the engine combustion is strained under heavy output. This could be from timing advancement issues under acceleration, uphill and/or under load, and/or low octane rated gasoline. Basically the higher the octane, the longer or slower it will burn, which produces more push or power. The 3.0l is a fairly small engine, with low compression and piston bore/stroke, which is designed for economical use. So those with a heavier foot or heavier load will definitely be working the engine to it's fullest. I'm no expert on 3.0l's, but these generalizations should help you get the idea.

    With a regular cab, and a 2001 model, you will most likely never encounter any pinging at all. And if you do, it will be very slight, and only when going up a steep hill and/or a heavy payload. Where downshifting or shifting out of overdrive doesn't help, an upgrade in gas octane will help. Like all TSB's, it is just something to be aware of, and to help in case of any problems with your vehicle or dealership service.
  • abhairabhair Posts: 8
    My '96 Ranger Supercab with 4.0 automatic has had at lease 4 different oil plugs. All start leaking about every 2k miles. I have talked to several Ford mechanics who have no answer. I have had the regular type with the "O" ring and a flat type with a soft metal washer. When I check the leak, I can easily turn the plug 1/3 round. I have never had this problem before on any other car and I have been changing my own oil from over 50 years. I need help. BTW - two mechanics thought the leak was the main seal as the oil from the plug blows back to the seal area. I have proved it is the plug by cleaning and watching the drips.
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    This is a wild guess, and Im not an expert by any means, but could the threads where the plug screws in be stripped?
  • 427435427435 Posts: 86
    eharri3 has probably hit on it. Someone overtightened the oil plug and has slightly stripped the threads---that's way it keeps working loose. Go to an auto parts store and get an oversize oil plug that is made just for this problem. It will turn in hard the first time as it's cutting new threads but should seal up just fine.
  • abhairabhair Posts: 8
    Thanks for the help. I will try to get an oversize plug. Will keep you posted but I will wait until I change oil again.
  • My 1994 Ranger (2.3l 4cyl manual) has been with my mechanic for over a week. He replaced the clutch with an aftermarket product, and could not get it to work. It will not "bleed out". He removed that clutch and ordered a new one from the Ford dealer - the LEGIT part -, replaced it, and it still will not work. They can't get this to bleed out either. HELP!!!!
  • Also try putting some teflon tape on the threads, if the oversize plug doesn't work. If push comes to shove, a little silicon will stop it. But you'll have to reapply it every oil change.
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