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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • I also have a 99 ranger xlt 2wd and the same thing is happening! I barely made it home and it shifted really hard. could this be the same thing?
  • I have a 98 Ranger 2.5L with around 220K on it. I can be driving along at freeway speeds or pulling out from a stop sign and shift into 2nd/3rd gear and it sounds like the engine just dies, decelerates like I just put on the brake and the check engine lite comes on. If I turn the key from the run position, nothing happens. If I turn the truck off and back on again, it starts up and away I go. This has happened several times in the last few weeks. Fuel pump? Ignition switch? Kill switch from alarm? Unfortunately I am usually in no position to stop and do any real trouble shooting. Happened when the fuel tank was 1/4. 1/2 and now 3/4. This happens a couple times week. Any ideas?
  • Of course the 4.0 is "poor on power". It only specs out at 160 horsepower, under the best of conditions. You are expecting WAY too much of this bargain basement ancient German made V-6. IF you want power, buy a Toyota or Nissan.
  • I just purchased two weeks ago and it only has 27K. It has 19.5 gal tank which indicated full when I left the lot. I have put219 miles on it, and I'm on my third tank of fuel. I checked mileage with this tank full. it took 16 gals of fuel and I traveled only 124 miles. That's just local driving,very few OTR miles. The truck runs and drives like a dream and no vibs in 4 wheel or normal drive, but less than 8 miles to the gallon there has to be a problem. Any help would be appreciated.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's a truck.

    It is new - motor not 'broken in'.

    It's the middle of winter.

    You are probable doing in-town driving.

    These deliver low milage. All combined - very low milage.

    Now, my speach about milage. Unless you fill the tank, note the milage, drive a significant amount, fill the tank again, note the milage, subtract milage numbers and divide by the gallons it took to refill the tank - then you have no real idea what milage you are actually getting. Drove so-and-so on about 1/2;1/4;tank of gas is useless info.

    You also gave no info about the vehicle - manual/auto, 2/4 wheel drive, or which of 3 motors you have.

    In general, after the truck is broken in, you will probably get about 14mph in town, and about 19mpg on highway travel. Milage greater than this should be thought of as a 'bonus'.

    Again - it's a truck. They get terrible milage, even the small ones.
  • tank6779tank6779 Posts: 1
    Recently had some severe cold around town, back in January had a hose blow that froze up on me, so I took it in to have everything tested as the engine over heated, mechanic said everything was fine. Replaced thermostat, hoses, power flushed, tune up, oil. Now after a few weeks, start getting a load banging/knocking noise at low idle after running on the highway, or at higher speeds. Opened the hood to see if there was anything I could see as I revved the engine, and noticed top radiator hose was squashing. What do I do, love my truck, and need to fix it, has 127k on it.
  • tukeanutukeanu Posts: 10
    Buster15:
    This is a follow up on a problem posted 3 months ago regarding pulsating brakes at low speed. Felt like a subdued ABS kicking in and vehicle would not stop as a result. Turns out you were right about it being the sensor in the front left wheel hub. However, you stated that the dealer said you could not replace the just the sensor. The whole hub assembly had to be replaced. The dealer here replaced just the sensor and it seems to have solved the problem. I practically told them what the solution would be but they recommended using the "diagnostics" anyway to see if there were any "codes". It seems that if they can't read any fault codes then they don't know what to do and have to guess. I told them to replace only the sensor and that was done. The cost in US dollars was as follows;
    Diagnostics - $90.00
    Sensor - $173.00
    Labor - $135.00
    Total with tax = $452.00
    (14% tax here in Ontario!!)
  • fm544fm544 Posts: 6
    I have a 98 Ranger XLT 3.0 automatic with OD that is a 2 wd. Recently the transmission has been acting up. It goes fine when first starting off (the control is set to be in OD) except that it seems to wind out first gear for way too long, shifting at about 3500 to 4000 RPM. From that point it shifts up thru the gears and even into OD if I'm going fast enough.However sometimes the OD Off light starts blinking and won't stop if I press in on the control button. While it is doing this if I come to a complete stop and then start off again it feels like it is starting off in 2nd gear. If I pull over and put it in Park, turn off the key and re-start it works fine again. What can be the problem?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    there is a transmission control switch in the dash useualy behind the inst. cluster that can cause the problem also the speed sensor for the speedometer can cause it the speed sensor will cause a high upshift with harsh engagements hope this helps!
  • fm544fm544 Posts: 6
    Thanks, I will check it out.
    Frank
  • This appears to be my problem as well, as I have experienced 'harsh engagements' no doubt. Is the speed sensor you refer to located on the rear axle of a 2WD '98 Ranger 4.0L? Is the repair a do it yourself project and does it require any special tools? Thanks in advance.
  • gcs183gcs183 Posts: 1
    all of a sudden my abs light came on my od light started to blink and my speedometer does not work tried replacing the abs sensor on the rear and my abs light went off but od light still blinks and speedometer does not work and i forgot to mention it revs high in first and shifts hard into second any suggestions
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    it is located on the transmission extention housing and has a 10 or 11 mm bolt an easy do it yourself project it only takes a few min. to change
  • Thank you very much. I called O'Reilly and asked for a 'speed sensor' - they quoted the part at under $20 - does that sound about right?

    Is this problem with a periodic flashing OD light something that could be diagnosed with an OBD2 tester?
  • My truck ran out of gas today and the problems started. I have plenty of gas in it now but it will barely start and run. If i push the fuel pump reset it starts and runs so long as i alternate between holding and pumping the reset button. Is my fuel pump toast? If it is, how hard is it to change? Where is it located?
    Thanks in advance
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    it sounds like your fuel pump shut off switch has gone bad, and needs replaced. If it keeps kickin out on ya... It should go in and stay in regardless of fuel level, it should only kick out if you are in an accident..

    Ford Tech
  • lindaw1lindaw1 Posts: 1
    Sorry for using your msg to post...I'm new and can't seem to find the 'POST' button. I am told that I need a new oxygen sensor on my '99 Ranger XLT. It's a 4.0 litre, 6 cylinder. Where is my oxygen sensor, is it easy to get to so I can replace it myself or should I let the guy who wants to charge $300 do it for me. FYI - I'm not a mechanic but I can do simple things, like change plugs, wires, etc.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    it's located on the y pipe under the vehicle some vehicles have 2 oxygen sensors i have a 96 s-10 and it has 3 hope this helps
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