Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1122123125127128147

Comments

  • I just bought a 91 ranger with the same prob. i live on east coat Canada and we see alot of salt both from the water and dot in winter. I talked to my mechanic and he said he has seen it before so i went to local junk yard and got the piece for 30 bucks and they said it would take about 1 hour to put on .there are 5 rivets holding it on .They can be cut of and replaced by heavy grade bolts. What i heard its not that bad .
  • toot2toot2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ranger 3.0 same problem. First time light came on code specified EGR valve. I replaced it and now The check engine code indicates EGR flow is insufficient. I have not had time to check yet, but there must be a sensor that reads gases so I will try to find a test for that. Did you ever find the answer with yours?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Wow.
    Message 2527 replied to a message over 6 years old. I really think that is a record.

    Message 2526 replied to one that is 1 year 2 months old.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Posts: 72
    2002 Ranger 4.0L SOHC 2WD.
    My truck is not running right, its not running bad, just not right. My computer says my EGR is screwing up, but I did not think that would have anything to do with how it runs. At 40mph it chugs, and when you take it out of gear the rpm goes down to 200, but then slowly returns to 600 normal idle. Any idears, really appreciated.
  • djhessdjhess Posts: 1
    i have a '98 ranger 4 cylinder, we recently realized it needed some work done on it and instead of paying for labor my dad handed me all the parts and a user manual. the problem is i don't know which way is up with all this

    we had a mechanic inspect the truck and he said the fuel filter needs replacing, i found the filter and have a replacement but for some reason i can't get it loose. i got the clips off and got it out of the bracket but its like the filter is stuck in the hose its connected to on both sides. the manual said something about releasing the pressure with the inertia swith or something and i tried it but that won't even work.

    any ideas how to get the filter out? thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    "My computer says my EGR is screwing up"

    Does this mean there is a 'Check Engine' light on?

    If so, fix whatever is causing that, your other problems might go away. You sure don't want to chase 'unknown' problems when there is a check engine light on.

    EGR error codes get a lot of EGR valves changed that have nothing wrong with them. There are several hoses and vacuum switches related to this system that could be the problem, not the actual valve.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, some of the fuel line connectors have push-in spring retained connections. You have to have a 'special tool' to get them apart.

    This tool is nothing but a thin tube with the side cut out of it, and a grip attached. You put the open side over the fuel line and slide it into the connector, which pushes the inside clip loose and it can be pulled apart.

    An auto parts house should be able to sell you one for your Ranger, or a whole set for various sized lines. Only about $10, they are cheap flimzy metal.

    Knowing how to work on a car is nice. But buying you a manual and telling you to 'get after it' is somewhat like throwing you into the lake to learn to swim.

    I bet he bought you a Chilton's manual, right? These are almost useless for most repairs on a car. To do it right, you will need the factory manuals. Sometimes can be found on eBay reasonably, but bought new at Helms, Inc and will cost about $125.

    P.S.
    Good Luck.
    P.P.S.
    If you do get the filter off, a lot of gas is going to start coming out. It is 'downhill' from the gas tank. Do not work on this where there is any ignition source!!!! (Inside a garage with a water heater, etc!!!) Have an old pencil at hand and stick this into the open fuel line when removed to stop the gas flow! It should hold until you put a new filter on.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Posts: 72
    The check enine light, yes. EGR insufficient flow, and your right I'm going to get the EGR fixed before I go chasing ghost problems that could be caused by EGR messing up. But its and emmissions control system, I thought would have nothing to do with how it runs.
    Now I just have to figure out what part of the EGR system is causing the problem, if I take it into the shop can they figure it out with more technical equipment, or will they do the same hit or miss fixing that I would be doing.

    I really appreciate your response to my question Bolivar.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    It's time to replace plugs and wires on the Ranger again (misfires again). It's going on 190,000 commuter and mostly stop-and-go miles on it, and this isn't the first time for new plugs and wires, but Ranger has earned them at the very least. I'm looking for other's experiences with alternatives or should I just go with another set of Motorcrap-t.

    If I go with something like iridium plugs (or split-fires?) or other more modern designs, I'm not convinced it's money well-spent unless (at the very least) I have different gap specs, and I don't know if the original ignition module would even be up to the task of improving spark with a better-grade plug.

    Any actual experiences to share?

    Thanks folks!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    My opinion - buy any PLATIUM plugs (AC, Motorcraft, etc) in the same type as orginial and you will not go wrong. I've heard stories about Rangers not liking Bousch (sp?). This should give you 50,000 miles or so for sure.

    I think split ring, multi electrode, etc is just marketing hype.

    Spend the money saved on new plug wires. If it's time for plugs, it's time for new wires. And, you don't have to worry about damaging the old ones. Just get one off and put one replacement plug and wire back on there. Not much chance of getting them cross wired either.
  • david6david6 Posts: 75
    I recently had to replace the tailgate handle on my 2001 Ranger XLT, and prior to doing this found no real info on the web as to what this would take. So here is what I found out (not having a repair manual) . . . I hope this helps others and is generally useful:

    It's quite simple. The part itself cost me $35 from the local Ford dealer, although some websites have it for cheaper, and another local dealer wanted $50. I got an exact replacement for the original black plastic handle, although there are chrome options, apparently, and probably others.

    All that I had to do was unscrew 8 screws from the inside of the tailgate to remove my plastic bedliner, and underneath that, a metal plate covering the mechanics. The handle itself is attached with two nuts which I removed using a socket wrench, since they are an inch below some of the levers. I pulled the handle off the tailgate, and reversed the process. I wasn't working quickly or uninterrupted, but I would guess that this all took me maybe a half hour, while the dealerships wanted to charge me an hour (at the good one) or two (at the expensive one) to do the work.

    One key point is that my handle broke because one of the bolts that slides back and forth to hold the tailgate to the body became stuck in it's casing. I made sure to grease this up and spray some WD-40 on the springs of the mechanics. If other Ranger owners wish to avoid replacing the handle (as I also have to do on another Ranger my company owns) they may wish to do preventative maintenance in this area.
  • david6david6 Posts: 75
    While I was recently focused on replacing my tailgate handle, my air conditioning died on my 2001 Ranger XLT 4.0L 2x4 with 94,000 miles. I was surprised by this, since it seems a bit early. Understandably Ford corporate didn't feel any need to help me out with the costs, but I've heard that Honda has helped out CR-V owners when their A/C compressors died at similar mileage.

    It turned out that the air conditioning compressor clutch died. As a result, the shaft seal began to melt, so the dealer is replacing both of those, and as a result has to recharge the unit. Total cost just a bit less than $800.

    I felt that the truck was due for something like this to happen given the mileage, and since it is under $1,000 I'm not too upset, but I am disappointed. I had hoped my suspicions would not be justified like this, since I believe the Ranger is pretty reliable.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    " I was surprised by this, since it seems a bit early"

    Why does it seem to be a bit early?

    At 6 years and 100K miles I suspect that a lot more items will need replacing. It is the nature of things.
  • My '95 Ranger has been giving me some trouble with wear on the inside edge of both my front tires. The steering is really stiff. I don't know if it needs an alignment adjustment for camber or if something else might be wrong. I don't think it's the bearings they seem to be intact. Anyone else have any ideas???
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    you need to have the caster, camber adjusted to stop the wear. i had the same problem i took it to an alighnment shop now both front tires wear evenly
  • I took it down to two separate shops and they both said my ball joints are shot! I've got to get new camber sleeves and tie rod ends too. In essence a complete overhaul on my front end. The cost is going to be $1,100!
  • did you get this resolved? I'm having the same problem and wanted to know how you fixed it. We changed bulbs, fuses and check wiring.
  • same problem, did/how you resolve it?
  • I had this exact problem (abs light on and hard shifting in second) with my 2000 ranger and the speed sensor replacement worked like a charm! I know this post is 2 years old but wanted to express my sincere gratitude! Thank you!!!!
  • I took it down to Midas and they told me it was the steering gear and bearings needed to be replaced for $750. Someone is off base here I wonder who??? :confuse:
Sign In or Register to comment.