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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • bigcat52bigcat52 Posts: 1
    What type of transmission fluid do i use in my 2004 ford ranger also is there a cabin air filter and where is it located?? thanks b.m.w.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Bad alternator, not charging the battery, which killed the first battery???

    Should have checked this first, a bad battery usually does not turn the 'red light' on. This indicates the battery is not receiving a charge, not that it is bad.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    -If you have the owner's manual, it will tell you. Off the top of my head, I don't know. There are several variations of tranny fluid, I would not guess about this. Find an owner's manual, or go to a shop with books that have this info. You don't want to put the wrong fluid in a tranny.

    -No cabin filter on a Ranger, any year.
  • redbusredbus Posts: 4
    I suggest using synthetics through out your truck. Amsoil makes synthetics and excellent filters. Synthetics will reduce your fuel use and extend your drain intervals. Ranger does not have a cabin air filter. Maybe the new Ranger will have one.
  • ozzie3ozzie3 Posts: 1
    I lent my 1998 ford ranger 4x4 to a friend who sunk my truck in the river it was completely submerged for about an hour. we let it sit for 2 weeks or so to dry out before we attempted to start it. I drained the power steering fluid, oil and gas. it now starts okay but when i put any load on the engine it seems to bog right down and has no power. It is a 5 spd manual and i'm hearing what sounds like the flywheel or a throw-out bearing noise as soon as I start it. the odometer is not working neither is the speedometer. also when i put it into 4wh drive the indicator light on the dash fails to illuminate and the 4wheel drive does not engage, all the other indicator lights on the dash work. Any suggestions on where to sart with any of these issues. thanks oz
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's a tribute to
    Ford that the truck starts at all, but sadly, I think you're fighting a losing battle. The problems with this truck will be endless, and probably culminate in engine failure, and likely rear end and transmission failure as well. The electrical gremlins will never end. I'd trade it in on something else as soon as possible if it were me.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Offhandly, what you missed:

    -Rear differential.
    -Front differential.
    -Brake fluid.
    -Front bearings.
    -All electronics.

    I too am amazed it started at all, or even moved.

    You might have one hope. Buy a similar wrecked truck, and start transferring things. Electronics for sure. I would think that in 2 weeks, the areas that you did not flush started to rust up big-time. And if you continue to have not opened up these things, the damage is daily getting worse. The differentials and transmission probably are gone. Remember, oil and all lub fluids are lighter than water and probably started coming out of these things. And they all have openings, even if only small vent holes. You got water into all of them.

    In a Cadillac forum, a guy documented bringing a 2000 Deville back to life after a flood. He bought a wreck. He did extensive flushes of the engine and transmission. Also all electronic modules had to be switched out or replaced. He pulled all the electric wiring and cleaned all connectors. Of course the Deville had much more than your truck. He worked all one winter on this. Even then, the car set multiple 'check engine light' codes that he had to work one by one.

    Have you learned not to loan your car? But, maybe, your friend is stepping up and paying for the damage?
  • My 1996 Ranger's serpentine fan belt fainally busted after 120K miles. The instructioners describe using an open end wrench to release teh automatic belt tensioner.

    Can anybody walk me through this?
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    there should be a diagram on the fan shroud that shows the correct position for your belt as far as the tentioner an open end wrench is not the best thing to use either a boxed end wrench or a breaker bar with a socket is safer
    best of luck!
  • jherrjherr Posts: 4
    I have a 92 Ranger 4 cylinder 2.3L. My turn signals stopped working. I checked the fuse and all the bulbs. The horn, the headlights, highbeams, hazards, radio all work. Is there a relay I need to know about? Any Ideas? I checked the inertia switch as well as the fuses in the motor near the battery.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    your flasher unit will also cause the turn signals to stop working. i would say thats what the problem is. hope this helps!
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Yes, and your flasher unit is usually attached to the fuse panel, a quarter sized round aluminum plug in unit. Find and replace that, and you are probably back in business.
  • the speedometer,wipers,domelight all quit at the same time,they work when the key is in the on or acc position but will not work when truck is running.When I unplugged the RABS sensor on the differential they would not work at all so i replaced that sensor but still they dont work when truck is running. Its a 1998 ranger 2wheel drive manual trans 4 cyl please help
  • I know my '04 Ranger uses Mercon V, DO NOT MIX Mercon with Mercon V.
    There is no cabin filter in these vehicles.
  • I put new brake shoes in a 1998 ford ranger splash and I noticed the rear pass. side shoes were worn on the tops...The parking brake cable is too short and is putting pressure on the top of the shoes where the linkage fits into the brake shoe. Is there an adjustment on the parking brake cable?
  • I have a '98, 2.5L, with a hole in my catalytic converter. If I decide to replace rather than repair, is that something a novice can do ?

    Also, I have been looking for good references or a step-by-step guide, but am having trouble finding easy to understand information suitable for a mechanic like myself. Anyone have a good suggestion?
  • I have been looking for a harmonic balancer for 92 ford ranger with a 2.3 l, 4 cylinder. I have tried every resource I have. Everyone is out of stock. New or used, i dont care. Can anyone help?
  • I have the thump/clunk problem when stopping and taking off. I read a thread about drilling a 7/32 hole into my split yoke near the front u-joint and then installing a 1/4" grease fitting so I can grease the spline yoke....would this be the yoke between the rear end and the u-joint back the furthest?

    Here's what I read:

    "Please post this everywhere you can. Here is the solution and it doesn't invlove driveshaft replacement or removal. Drill a 7/32 hole in your split yoke close to your front u-joint(so you don't drill into your splines). Purchase a 1/4x28 grease fitting 1/4x28 tap. Install grease fitting and inject heavy duty grease into your driveshaft. This will coat your splines. Do not overfill or you will rupture your boot that covers your 2 piece connection. Easy to do and if driveline slop comes back, get the grease gun out and recoat in minutes. Worked great on my 2000 extended cab."
  • i used to have one for a 93 ranger 2.3 don't know if i still have it or not. i will look through my parts and see i kept a few things my email is i live in Ruskin,Florida
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