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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kkrasekkrase Posts: 1
    i have '98 4.0. while driving lost acceleration and then died. had it towed home. have changed fuel filter, alternator, crankshaft timing sensor. it will run for about 1.5 secs and die. yesterday black smoke came out exhaust. any suggestions?
  • A friend told me it has to do with a computer chip that runs your entire fuel and ignition system. You'll have to ask a qualified ford mechanic about this computer chip.
  • I will soon be changing the plugs in my '99 Ranger with 3.0 Flex Fuel engine. I am curious as to what brand and type of plug other Ranger owners are using and why. Also, someone told me to use antisieze on the threads. My Haynes manual doesn't mention this. Should I or shouldn't I?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What would be wrong with using the same ones that Ford put in the truck? This should be found on a sticker under the hood, or in your owner's manual.

    I've never used anti-seize. Are you going to be changing them again when needed in 50/75/100,000 miles?
  • I HAVE A VERY BAD VIBRATION NOW BEGINNING TO SHOW UP AS LOW AS 45 MPG AND UP. I HAVE RECENTLY CHANGED A BAD DRIVERS SIDE BALL JOINT AND DID NOTHING TO HELP. (EVEN THOUGH IT WAS BAD) IT SEEMS TO TAKE PLACE MORE SO ON THE FREEWAY ESPECIALLY WHEN I AM BEGIND A BIG TRUCK OR COASTING DOWN A HILL. IT FEELS LIKE A SHOCK HOPPING UP AND DOWN. BUT PUSHING UP AND DOWN ON THE TRUCK THEY SEEM TO BE FINE. I DO HAVE A ONE PIECE DRIVE SHAFT SO I DON'T THINK IT IS THAT. THE U JOINTS HAVE NO PLAY AT ALL BUT I HAVE NOT TAKEN THEM OUT TO INSPECT THOROUGHLY. CAN SOME ONE GIVE ME ANY ADVICE ON WHAT ELSE I COULD CHECK AND IF THERE IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE 04 FORD RANGERS'
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    use autolite double platinum and also use anti-seize
  • My truck's driver side brakes have been making a noise "on and off" for three years. I only use the truck for recreational purposes. In 2007 I was in an accident with my truck, slammed into on the front fender driver side, so initally I thought the noise had to do with the repairs. Returning it to the repair shop, they checked it out, greased the caliper bolt and the noise went away for awhile. Because I don't drive the truck that much, when the noise returned I took it to our local Ford garage where they replaced the excluder seals. Again the noise went away for awhile, but when it "came back", I took it to Ford and they replaced the front pads and turned the rotors. When again the noise came back, I took it in once more. The tech disassembled the brakes, lubricated the slides and backing plates. They say everything looks good, no damage or abnormal wear. The next week the noise was back again big time. I'm taking it back in to the repair shop but seriously, am I just stuck with a noisey brake? When the brake is applied, the noise goes away. My daughter offered a suggestion because she had a noisey brake on her VW Passad. She said it was a brake pad spring. Because the brake pad was replaced by Ford, I would think that problem could be eliminated. Anyone have a suggestion?
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    if the brake noise goes away when you apply the brakes it sounds like you might need to add a shim or 2 between the pads and calipers and i would also bleed the system too. most new pads come with extra shims if needed but i,m sure you could get just them too. also quit wasting you money at a over priced dealership all your money goes toward advertising, try a local a small local shop if you need help. good luck
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    it sounds like you have a busted cord in one of your tires ,they will balance out fine on a machine, but when they are on the road there will be a lump and the tire will hop, run your hand along the tread and fell for a lump. or you could put on your spare on one tire at a time til it goes away and you will find the bad one, good luck
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    it sounds like you have a busted cord in one of your tires ,they will balance out fine on a machine, but when they are on the road there will be a lump and the tire will hop, run your hand along the tread and fell for a lump. or you could put on your spare on one tire at a time til it goes away and you will find the bad one, good luck
  • i just put new tires on it and it was doing the same with the old tires so i don't think it would be the tires but you never know. just curious if shocks can start to go bad and bounce from time to time or do they just go bad. also can a u-joiunt cause vibrations even if there is no play in the drift shaft at the rear end. everything seems to be tight.
  • blk4x4blk4x4 Posts: 43
    when a shock wears out they will let the truck just bounce up and down when you push on it or hit a bump driving, if you are going to replace them anyway go ahead and see what happens, try jacking up the rear axle and setting it down on jack stands with the tires off the ground and put it in gear as if driving and see if you can make it vibrate, if so then its not a shock or bad tire but it could be a unproperly balanced tire i always have the use stick on weights by the way, or you have a bad u joint or posably you lost a weight off the drive shaft
  • thanks i will check tommorrow
  • jo999jo999 Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a Ford Ranger and would like to fit a 'bench seat' to enable 3 people to travel in it. Does anyone if this is poss and where I might obtain a seat from?
    Many thanks
  • My '99 Ranger with 3.0 engine, automatic, and 2 wheel drive just turned 72,000 and still have the original Firestone tires. I think it is time to put some new tires on. The original tires were never good on wet pavement and worse on snow and ice. I live in northern Ohio, so I need all season tires that are very good on snow and ice. I would like to hear from other Ranger owners who can suggest tires that they have had good experience with.
  • Monday I get my four new snows with steel rims installed Bridgestone Blizzaks. I was assured by a mechanic that these are suitable for the eastern Ontario Canada winters. We get a heck of alot of snow. See the following link:

    http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Blizzak+D- M-V1&partnum=475R6DMV1&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes
  • I have a 94 Ranger, while I was hauling some stuff to the dump, she quit running all of a sudden, I tinkered with it a little bit, got it to start again, went down the road a couple miles, as it seemed to be running just fine, however, when I went to turn a corner, she stopped running again.

    I'm just wondering, it seems to not be getting fuel, its got a brand new fuel pump in it, was just put in in April, I'm trying to diagnose to see if its a problem other than the fuel pump, anyone who has had to change one knows why I would look and eliminate any other possibility.

    Is there anything between the ignition switch and the fuel pump that can cause the problem at hand?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    There is a 'rollover' fuel cutoff switch. Passenger footwell, near the center, just behind the top of the carpet. There is a pushbutton to reset it.

    But if it is open, the fuel pump doesn't run at all. Now there are connections there that could be starting to have problem. The truck is now 15 years old...

    Other possibilities, and probably a better possibility, is the fuel pump relay. There are beside or inside the fuse box under the hood are I think up to 3 identical relay boxes. If their plug in connectors are getting dirty, this could be the problem. Or could be failing. I don;t know which is the fuel pump one. Wiggle them around. Switch them around, they are all the same. Buy 3 new one. If you can decide which is the fuel pump, buy one new one.
  • Tis true that the truck is 15 years old, also in a humid environment, so its completely possible that the contacts are going bad.

    On mine,t he fuel pump relay is the one in the center, there is a diagram underneath the power distribution top, so that I found, I will look into it further tomorrow when I have the day off.

    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I usually don't recomment 'throwing parts' at a problem, without a diagnois, but the relays are something that fail rather often. I think one would be about $25 or so at a parts house, not Ford.

    Might be worth it to just buy one and replace it and see if your problem stops.
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