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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • I am having the same problem with my dad's Ranger. I have replaced the heads, new gskts, new coil, new plugs and wires, new injectors and checked voltage at injector harness, new computer, new cam position sensor and syncronizer, new crank sensor, have not found vacum leaks, new air cleaner and fuel filter. Pulled y-pipe and cat converter. Looked inside and blew air through them and they did not seem restricted, compression is over 152 psi on all cylinders, and valvetrain seemed to work fine when I watched it with the valve covers removed. I am exausted. I do not know what else to do. Did you ever identify the problem?
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    you might check the coil pack, one of my friends had the same problem he had a bad coil pack. hope this helps
  • bc2005rlbc2005rl Posts: 10
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 2WD V6 3.0 extended cab with 92000 miles on it. The other day my ABS, O/D, and check engine light came on, and my speedometer and odometer stopped working. In addition, the transmission would take a long time to shift out of first. But, when it did shift, it was very hard. So I log onto the internet and researched the issue. All of the information that I saw pointed to the ABS Speed Sensor that mounts on the top of the rear differential. I replaced the sensor and all of the light went out. I thought I was in business, but all was not well. Since replacing the sensor, the odometer started working, but the speedometer is not working and the transmission is still shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, if it shifts at all. Can someone help?
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    edited August 2010
    I have a '95 Ford Ranger STX 4.0 V6 5-speed standard. It has been stumbling and running real rough lately. It has approximately 325,000 miles on it and shows 317,000 miles. The odometer has also stuck lately. It had a check engine light on for quite a while. When I had it checked for codes it said there was a problem with the EGR and two cylinders misfiring. Well, I replaced the EGR valve, EGR pressure sensor, and the EGR solenoid. I took the EGR tube off and soaked the inside with PB Blaster overnight. I also took a small screwdriver and cleaned inside where the EGR tube connects to the manifold. I also cleaned the rubber hoses that connect the EGR pressure sensor to the EGR tube. There are some hard plastic hoses that connect the EGR solenoid, but I don't think anything is wrong with these and don't know what to do to clean them anyhow. The check engine light is off now and the truck runs a lot better, but has been stumbling at take off and it is eating gas like crazy. Piss poor mileage. I have cleaned the throttle body, replaced the throttle body position sensor, replaced the mass air flow sensor, new air filter, replaced fuel filter, and I don't think I have any vacuum leaks. The ABS light is on and I've been told that this might be the rear ABS sensor. The ones they have at Autozone, Advanced Auto, Napa, and Oreilly are remanufactured and don't work on my truck. They have a big black housing and mine has a thin metal connector. Also, the truck squeals at start and will chirp occasionally when it is running. I'm at a loss I need to figure this out before I go broke trying to keep fuel in this sucker. :confuse:
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    try running a new ground wire from the engine to the fire wall also start it up when it's dark look at the plug wires and coil to see if they are arking. the aqueel is probably a worn out belt sometimes a chirp is an idler pully.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    sorry my keyboard is starting to go bad had to log on to my other computer the (squeal) is probably the belt going bad.
  • Run a ground wire from where on the engine to the firewall. From the starter maybe? I noticed this ground off the starter sits near the rear seal that has been leaking slightly. I put some stuff in to help the seals come back hope it works. I noticed the ground from the starter had some oil leaking on it slightly and cleaned it up.

    Well, I also took the EGR valve off and sprayed throttle body cleaner in it. I sprayed it in the top port and it wouldn't run out. I think this means that the valve is sticking right? Any way I told Advanced Auto to get me another one and it should be here in the morning. I cleaned the EGR valve the best I could. Then I cleaned the tube that goes to the throttle body from the EGR valve. After that I cleaned the MAF sensor with some cleaner and took the air cleaner out and shook it out. It seemed to run better after this. I also cleaned the IAC too. I'm thinking about taking the whole EGR tube off and everything and cleaning it again. Also, probably going to hit the throttle body again. I have this feeling like I loosened stuff up and it sucked it up through the system and plugged other areas.
  • redbusredbus Posts: 4
    Well you have a 15 year old truck with 325k on the running gear? Maybe it's time to get a new vehicle.
  • Well, true it doesn't owe me much that's for sure! It is nice not having a truck payment though. ;>) I'm still pretty partial to her too.

    I went and got the OBD check at Advanced Auto and got these codes P1443 Emissions Control and P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire. So I think this tells me it could still be the same problem with the EGR? It could be the catalytic converter maybe. I can't crossreference the P1443 code, but I've seen the P0303 code before. Any other thoughts?
  • KCRam@EdmundsKCRam@Edmunds Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,495
    You may also want to get a compression check on cylinder 3 - that could be causing the emissions issues as well as the misfire code.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host

    KCRam - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Moderator

  • bill294bill294 Posts: 1
    I've changed the rotor, cap, spark wires, ignition module, and coil. still not firing?
  • Check the pick up inside the distributor. Also verify that you have 12 volts coming from the switch wire to the ignition. Good luck.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    try changing the pickup inside the distributor
  • How difficult is it to replace the Power Steering Pump on my 96 Ranger XLT 4 cylinder, side-step, 5 speed?

    It squeals something awful (and gets difficult to steer) when the fluid level :surprise: gets the slightest bit low.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    How difficult is it to replace the Power Steering Pump on my 96 Ranger XLT 4 cylinder

    You will probably have to borrow, from the parts house, a 'special tool' to get that PS pump off. The pump shaft goes thru a bracked and the pulley is outside the bracket. You will have to have a 'puller' to pull the pulley off. The same tool has stuff the 'push' the pulley back on the new PS pump, using a threaded hole down the shaft.

    Other that that, it's pretty simple. But be careful you don't get your tools on the fluid supply tank or you will break it's seal.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I think your 95 has the 'old style' 4L, same as my 94 had.

    This motor has a strange thing that happens, it happened on my 94 with much less miles, probably at about 50,000 miles.

    The bolts on the intake manifold loosen up. This lets air directly into the cylinder charge, the O2 sensor reads a lean mixture, so the computer jacks more fuel into the next charge to counter the lean mixture. This causes your terrible milage.

    What also happened with mine, the loose intake pulls oil into the intake, and burns it. My 'low oil indicater' came on, and sure enough, I was low a quart. The truck had NEVER used a quart between changes.

    It takes a 8 or 9mm socket and you will need a flex entension to get to all of the bolts. Just start in the center on the intake and alternate side to side and to both ends. I don't remember the torque, but it isn't much, probably about 35 pound. I think you will find several bolts that are loose. Probably one near cylinder 3, causing the error messages you see.

    After I did this, my truck returned to previous oil and fuel usage. It did not leak coolant or oil around the intake when the bolts were loose.
  • my 1995 ford ranger won't start about half the time i replaced the one of the coil packs about a two week ago and it seem to have fixed the problem but now it won't start again. can anyone help me
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 98
    check your distributor cap for carbon tracks and wear, also check the rotor for excessive wear
  • I have a 93 Ranger, 4.0 liter. In one month I have replaced the mass air flow sensor twice. Any ideas?
  • i have the same problem. my 2.3 liter ranger start jerking, misfire, when remove my foot of peddle will become worse. after running diagnose test, i replace the MAF, spark plugs, wiring. the truck is the same, i replace the MAF second time and nothing has changed, but when i unplug the MAF connection the engine sound little better and i can drive it for a few miles with some jerking, misfire and hesitating here and there. once i plug the MAF connection it seems like 10.0 earthquake shaking the engine.
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