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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wmw28wmw28 Posts: 2
    I took it to the dealer I bought it from, He replaced the passenger door switch with a switch off of a ranger he had around. it works now ,but maybe I should get a new one like you suggested, for both doors. Can a yard mechanic like myself do this installation, cause if it aint broke the dealer wont do it.
  • Dreaded marble noise,piston slap,(what is piston slap)? Oh well I'll just have to live with it I guess. I paid 9,600 for this 4X4 Ranger XLT with 26,000 miles on it.Its in FANTASTIC shape. It was quiet when I first got it and know it sounds like it has 126,000 miles. But I guess as long as it keeps running well I won't worry too much about it. Thanks everyone again for the replys. Piston slap?
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    My 2000 4.0 pushrod Ranger makes that noise, and also makes a slight knocking sound when cold. It seems to go away when warm. I suspect is is indeed piston slap, whcih goes away when the piston heatss up and undergoes expansion. In any event, I have seen a number of Rangers that over 200K on those motors with very little trouble. I wouldn't worry about it. If you are not satsified, spend a few bucks and get an oil analysis done to give you peace of mind. If something major is wrong, you will have evidence of deteriorated bearing materials in the oil residue.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    Engine - Carbon Knock On Acceleration
    Article No:
    01-19-7

    10/01/01
    ^ ENGINE - 4.0L OHV - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION

    ^ NOISE - CARBON KNOCK ON ACCELERATION - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 4.0L OHV ENGINE ONLY

    FORD:
    1990-1997 AEROSTAR
    1990-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER

    ISSUE
    Some vehicles equipped with the 4.0L OHV engine may exhibit an engine noise which may be perceived by the customer as a piston/connecting rod bearing knock. This carbon knock is heard only under load during the drive cycle. Carbon knock is a customer drive duty-cycle phenomenon that cannot be repaired with an engine exchange. This may be caused by carbon build-up within the combustion chamber.

    ACTION
    Verify condition. If normal diagnostics fail to correct the condition, de-carbon the combustion chamber to help quiet the carbon knock noise. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    1. Use Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner PM-3.

    2. Carbon removal:
    a. Disconnect canister purge line from throttle body.
    b. Attach a vacuum line to the canister purge port.
    c. At hot engine idle, allow the engine to ingest 1/2 to 2/3 of a can of Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Cleaner. Use caution not to ingest too quickly due to potential hydro-lock issues.
    d Shut engine off and allow it to soak for one hour.
    e. Start engine, allow engine to ingest the remainder of the Motorcraft Carburetor Tune-up Gleaner.
    f. Remove vacuum line and re-install canister purge line.
    g. Road test vehicle at 3500 RPM for 2-3 miles.
    h. Repeat above procedure two times for a total of three times.
    i. Change oil and filter.

    3. Review the customers' driving habits. The recommended drive cycle should include daily periods of engine operation above 3,000 RPM, such as a brisk acceleration from a stop position. This will break/burn the carbon off the piston head.

    4. Use regular unleaded fuel, 87 Octane. Mid-grade and Premium fuels may increase the probability of carbon buildup, leading to a knock noise.

    PARTS BLOCK
    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

    011907A Remove Carbon From 1.6 Hrs.
    Combustion Chamber
    (Includes Time To Perform
    Procedure A Total Of
    Three Times)

    DEALER CODING

    CONDITION
    BASIC PART NO. CODE
    6108 42
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    TSB for Rangers taht have sagging rear springs, like mine:
    Leaf Springs - Vehicle Sits Low In Rear
    Article No.
    00-10-6

    05/15/00

    SUSPENSION - VEHICLE SITS LOW IN REAR
    FORD:
    1998-2000 RANGER

    This TSB is being republished in its entirety to add a Note to clarify the parts application.
    ISSUE
    Some vehicles may appear to be low in the rear. This may be caused by the rear springs.

    ACTION
    Replace the existing rear springs with revised springs. The revised springs provide a higher ride height at curb and reduce the possibility of the rear being too low. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    1. Verify that vehicle is low in the rear by measuring the ride height. To measure ride height, park truck on a known flat ground with no load in box.

    a. For 4X2: Measure from the top of the axle to the bottom of the frame in the area near the middle of the jounce bumper. The rear height for 4X2 should be at a minimum 170 mm (Figure 1).

    b. For 4X4: Measure from the top of the spring spacer bar to the bottom of the frame in the area near the middle of the jounce bumper. The rear height for 4X4 should be at a minimum of 156 mm (Figure 1).

    2. If the vehicle is below the minimum specifications noted, remove existing rear springs and replace them with revised springs. Refer to the appropriate Ranger Workshop Manual for replacement procedures.

    NOTE : FINAL SPRING BUSHING TORQUE MUST BE PERFORMED WITH CURB WEIGHT ON THE VEHICLE. IF THIS IS NOT PERFORMED, THE VEHICLE MAY LOSE RIDE HEIGHT AFTER LOADING/UNLOADING.

    NOTE : REFER TO THE VEHICLE CERTIFICATION LABEL AND THE PARTS CATALOG TO DETERMINE THE CORRECT SPRING TO INSTALL. IF THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAS A "-K" LEVEL SPRING, REPLACE IT WITH A "-KA" LEVEL SPRING. IF THE VEHICLE CURRENTLY HAS A "-C" LEVEL SPRING, REPLACE IT WITH A "-CA" LEVEL SPRING.

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    SUPERSEDES: 99-22-1
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    EVAP Line - Idle Dips On Turns/Deceleration
    Article No.
    01-9-4

    05/14/01
    ^ DRIVEABILITY - IDLE DIPS BELOW 450 RPM -
    WHEN TURNING OR ON DECELERATION - WITH
    OVER 3/4 TANK OF FUEL IN TANK

    ^ DRIVEABILITY - STALL - WHEN TURNING OR ON
    DECELERATION - WITH OVER 3/4 TANK OF FUEL IN TANK

    FORD:
    2000 RANGER

    ISSUE
    Some vehicles may exhibit a stall or idle dip (below 450 rpm) during deceleration or while turning that will only occur with a fuel tank level of 3/4 or greater. Generally the stall occurs with no Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) present. This may be caused by a restriction at the "Y" connection in the rear fuel vapor line.

    ACTION
    To diagnose, disconnect the Vapor Management Valve (VMV) electrically (for test purposes only). If there is no change in the symptom, continue normal diagnostics by referring to Symptom Chart 1 in the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) Workshop Manual. If the condition is resolved by disconnecting the VMV, reconnect the VMV and replace the rear fuel vapor line. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    1. To access the rear fuel vapor line, remove the fuel tank. Refer to the 2000 Ranger Workshop Manual, Section 310-01.

    2. Disconnect the fuel vapor line from the charcoal canister.

    3. Remove the two (2) rear retaining clips from the frame rail. Remove the vapor line from the front two (2) retaining clips (leaving the clips in the rail).

    4. Disconnect the fuel vapor line at the front disconnect (near the fuel filter).

    5. Replace the fuel vapor line.

    6. Reconnect the fuel vapor line in the front and rear.

    7. Reinstall fuel tank. Refer to the Workshop Manual, Section 310-01.

    Parts Block
    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage

    OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME

    010904A Replace Rear Fuel Vapor 1.4 Hrs.
    Line (This Includes Time
    To Remove And Install
    Fuel Tank)

    DEALER CODING

    CONDITION
    BASIC PART NO. CODE
    9G291 17

    OASIS CODES: 607000, 607700
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    OR....You could VOID YOUR WARRANTY !!
    Engine Coolant - Propylene Glycol Recommendations
    Article No.
    01-23-6

    11/26/01
    ^ ENGINE COOLANT - PROPYLENE GLYCOL - FORD
    MOTOR COMPANY POSITION ON ENGINE
    COOLANTS MADE FROM PROPYLENE GLYCOL

    ^ ENGINE COOLANT - PROPYLENE
    GLYCOL-BASED - FORD MOTOR COMPANY
    POSITION ON PROPYLENE GLYCOL-BASED
    ENGINE COOLANTS

    FORD:
    1989-1993 FESTIVA
    1989-1994 TEMPO
    1989-1997 PROBE, THUNDERBIRD
    1989-2002 CROWN VICTORIA, ESCORT, MUSTANG, TAURUS
    1994-1997 ASPIRE
    1995-2000 CONTOUR
    2000-2002 FOCUS
    2002 THUNDERBIRD
    1989-1990 BRONCO II
    1989-1996 BRONCO
    1989-1997 AEROSTAR, F SUPER DUTY
    1989-2002 ECONOLINE, F-150, RANGER
    1991-2002 EXPLORER
    1995-2002 WINDSTAR
    1997-2002 EXPEDITION
    1999-2002 SUPER DUTY F SERIES
    2000-2002 EXCURSION
    2001-2002 ESCAPE, EXPLORER SPORT TRAC, EXPLORER SPORT
    2000-2002 F-650, F-750

    LINCOLN:
    1989-1992 MARK VII
    1989-2002 CONTINENTAL, TOWN CAR
    1993-1998 MARK VIII
    2000-2002 LS
    1998-2002 NAVIGATOR
    2002 BLACKWOOD

    MERCURY:
    1989-1994 TOPAZ
    1989-1997 COUGAR
    1989-2002 GRAND MARQUIS, SABLE
    1991-1994 CAPRI
    1991-1999 TRACER
    1995-2000 MYSTIQUE
    1999-2002 COUGAR
    1993-2002 VILLAGER
    1997-2002 MOUNTAINEER

    MERKUR:
    1989 SCORPIO, XR4TI

    This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year coverage.
    ISSUE
    This TSB article describes Ford Motor Company's position on the use of propylene glycol-based engine coolants.

    ACTION
    Ford Motor Company does not recommend nor endorse the use of engine coolants made with propylene glycol in Ford vehicles. Ford Motor Company currently recommends the use of ethylene glycol-based engine coolants.

    Published information suggests that engine coolants made with propylene glycol may provide engine cooling performance equivalent to engine coolants made with ethylene glycol. However, different brands of engine coolant provide varying corrosion protection for the cooling system. Ford does not have performance data for the multitude of engine coolants available in the aftermarket and therefore cannot recommend the use of any coolant except those sold by Ford Customer Service Division. Consult the vehicle's Owner's Guide to determine the appropriate Ford Customer Service Division coolant for the vehicle.

    Furthermore, claims of toxicological and environmental advantages of propylene glycol over ethylene glycol may be misleading. When significant new information is developed, Ford will review this policy.

    Ford Motor Company specifications recommend that vehicles be maintained using certain ethylene glycol-based engine coolants. Those specifications do not refer to engine coolants made with propylene glycol. Although the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty is not automatically voided upon the use of a coolant made with propylene glycol, if such use results in damage to the vehicle or its components, the cost of repairing the damage would not be covered by the Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    SUPERSEDES: 96-16-4
    WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
    OASIS CODES: 402000
    Copyright © 2002 ALLDATA LLC
    Terms of Use
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    To help you maintain your Ranger. I will do my best.
  • I recently purchased a 1998 Ford Ranger XLT. It has the AM/FM/CD Stereo system. Monday on the way to school, I put a cd in it, and it said CD Error, 0001. I have tried several cd's and even a cd cleaner, but it hadn't helped. I haven't gotten my owner's manual from the dealer yet, so I can't look the code up there, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    Are those CD's that you burned yourself ?
  • To sum up my title, I purchased a 1999 ranger extended cab 4x4 with 3.0l flex fuel v6 engine, automatic trans. in july 2001 with 25,700 miles and balance of factory warranty. In August 2001, the drive shaft assembly was replaced. In September 2001, the computer was replaced because the dealer said that it was not advancing the timing correctly. Here's where it gets interesting. In dec. 01, took ranger in for what I thought was a bad rearend, Ford replaced the transmission. While test driving their work, discovered the trans they put in was bad and replaced it with a second transmission. Test drove and said was fine. Took back in March 02 for vibration in steering wheel when backing up and hesitation going from reverse to forward and sometimes not pulling at all. Was told was normal and that the vibration was the tires. Rotated tires and problem still there. In July of 2002, third transmission in the truck stopped pulling altogether. Can you imagine doing 75 mph on the interstate with a big rig on your [non-permissible content removed] and your trans goes out?! Anyway, ford put a fourth trans in my truck and gave me another warranty to use, 2years/48000 miles. This is my question, how many times will ford replace my trans before finally fixing the problem? I don't abuse the truck, and I don't baby it. Mixed highway/city driving. Can only seem to get about 15mpg out of it on the highway. Can anyone please help? Or should I get Ford to find my old truck for me?
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    I have never driven a Ranger 4x4, or Explorer, that DIDN'T shake (my theory is that some of it is torque converter vibration...a design problem, but that is an OPINION of mine). Your gas mileage of 15 is about normal. A 4x4 Ranger I would think would average about 15 to 17 mpg under most normal driving conditions (low gearing and airflow under the truck, plus an auto trans, eat gas.). My 4.0 00 model gets about 18 highway and about 14 in town. As far as trannies, something seems major wrong ! Neveer heard of 4 trannies in a Ranger, in a relatively new vehicle.
  • the vibration I talked about was the entire steering wheel shaking while going in reverse at idle. The sticker that came on the truck I found in the glove box has something like 19 for highway mileage and 17 for city. As far as the transmission problems, all I found out so far is that the dealer reserves the right to use remanned transmissions and other types of parts on warranty work. I found this out on the fourth trans. Have you heard anything? I'm open for any info I can get. At the point of kicking myself in the [non-permissible content removed] for getting rid of my 1990 F250 extended cab, even though it needed some work.
  • Well thanks again for every ones feedback on my noisy engine. As for carbon knock, I think I have reverse carbon knock. I only hear my noise's at idle,and especially cold start up. Normal driving and a hard pull on the engine I hear normal sounds, I think. I can live with that. Its the start up that gets me. Also my oil gauge says I have great oil pressure. Go figure? Thanks again everyone.
  • No, they are regular cd's, one of them was brand new even. Today after school it worked for about 5 minutes, and then I stopped at the gas station, and when I got back in and left, it wouldn't work again.
  • 1999 Ranger, 4.0 V6, 60,000 miles, regular cab short bed, 4x4, off-road package, 4.11 axle. Had Firestone tires, now have Goodyear.

    First, I've had the slip-yoke problem where the truck would thump while stopping or pulling away from a stop. Then I'd grease the slip-yoke (on rear drive shaft) and thump would go away.

    Now about 3000 miles ago, I started getting a vibration at 70-75 miles per hour (overdrive on). The kind that shakes the mirrors so you can't see who's behind you. Now the shaking is not constant -- it shakes for 2 seconds then stops for 2 seconds then shakes for 2 seconds, etc.

    I thought maybe it was the engine, so I noted the RPMs at 75 mph. Then I slowed down and took overdrive off and got the same engine RPMs but at a slower mph speed. No vibration, so the engine is ok, right?

    Ok, I suspect the driveshaft since everyone suggests getting the aluminum one (I have the original rusted steel shaft). But my question -- is there an aluminum shaft for the regular cab? I've seen talk of it for the extended cab.
  • 96flea96flea Posts: 38
    my 96 4.0 ranger w/auto tranny will have a slight shutter or miss to it at around 35-45mph. from a red light to 65mph no problem at all. coming off the highway and slowing to and staying at 35-45mph it begins. i had fluid and filter changed at 35k and 61k. it now has 63k.
    also, the egr valve needs replacing. what exactly is its purpose and how hard is it to change? thanks!
  • 96flea96flea Posts: 38
    oh, i would also like to know the location of a 96 4.0 maf.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The miss MIGHT BE the ICV, Idle Control Valve. It is a black and silver cylinder on the left side of the intake, about two times the length of a D cell battery. Has a wire connector to it. This controls the idle speed. It bleeds air into the intake, but can also carbon up from the gas fumes back from the intake. You can remove this, careful with the gasket so it can be reused, and clean with carb cleaner. Now part of it is an electrical solinod, so don't go cleaning on this end. You will see the air ports and little valve that are carboned up. A new one cost quite a bit, $50 or so, but can be bought aftermarket, don't have to buy Ford.

    The MAF is in the big black tube between the air cleaner and the intake. It's also got wires to it. It has 2 screws on the top, Torx screws with a security feature - a little knob in the middle so you can't use a regular Torx driver on it. You can buy a special driver for the screw, use vise grips on the screw heads, or I used a Dremel drill to remove most of the knob. Then you can pull out the MAF sensor. It is a little plastic box with a hole and in the hole are 2 very fine and FRAGILE wires. Buy electrical cleaner to spray these wires. Do not use carb cleaner. DO NOT TOUCH THEM WITH ANYTHING. Cleaner spray should clean them. Replace. If your check engine light is on, remove the negative battery cable for a few minutes to reset the computer. If a dirty MAF was setting teh check engine light, this might correct it. And give you better drivability and milage also.

    Don't know about the EGR valve. I've got a 1994 4L and I'm not sure if I've ever seem one. Are you sure your motor has one? A lot of these are replaced when it's something else causing problems.....
  • its me again. Does anyone have any kind of input as to what could possible be causing all my transmission problems? Be nice, and no, its not because of a lead foot or 4wheelin.
  • Hi: I have a 1995 Ranger, 4 cyl, 5 speed manual, 92,000 miles. I'm hearing a scraping noise from the rear-end starting at about 15mph. Seems to get real noticeable about 40mph or so. I'm assuming wheel bearings or am I way off here?
  • It it increases with wheel speed (MPH not RPM), then sounds like a good candidate. I repack my bearings a little over once a year. Thus I am on my 2nd set after 141,000+ miles in my 93. If the bearings are dry, and making a metal on metal sound, more than likely they are scored. Which means they have grooves in bearings or the outer housing. This is a pain in the butt to remove from the rotors and wheel hubs, but the parts are cheap.

    You should also check your rear brakes for metal on metal contact, worn out springs or drums, etc.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You'll not re-pack the rear bearings. Fixing them involves opening up the rear end, removing the axles, and using a puller to get the bearing out.

    Usually more than a back-yard mechanic can do.
  • Thanks Stang and Bolivar for replying. I took my Ranger into Tuffy's for a diagnosis. They say it needs new rear axles ($650). They put in but now they say it needs new rear-end ($2,000). I won't buy. $650 is one thing but $2000!?!?!? Saving grace is: I can have them take out axles and put Ranger back as they found it and I'm only out $130 for labor--they'll ship axles back for re-stock. I think I'm stuck with a scraping noise until the Ranger dies. I feel sticking $2700 into a truck worth about $4500 is putting good $ into bad although the rest of the truck is in great shape. What would you guys do??
  • I would find a junked or wrecked ranger and use that rear axle. I believe even a 4 cylinder mustang would have the right differential, but the gearing would probably be pretty low. On my retired 93 ranger, I replaced the transmission for about 2,500. I could of saved around 2 grand if I did the above. Of course having mechanicly inclined friends will help.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    How long have you been having noise in the rear? How many miles have you driven with the noise?

    Have you abused the truck? Spinning the tires or sliding the rear tires into a curb? Overloading the truck?

    If the noise has only been there a short time,I wouldn't think you would have ruined the axles themselves. Plus, bearings usually only go out one side at a time.

    I think they are shafting you. Unless you have abused the truck or run it a while with bad bearing (hearing the noise), I don't think you wouuld have ruined the axles. New bearings should be all you needed.

    If the truck has been abused, or water gotten into the rear end, or a leak of the rear end grease, then bearings, axles, and the entire differential could be ruined. In this case, the repair place would be right.

    I would pay the $130 in labor, have the axles removed, and get to the junkyard for an entire rear axle.
  • First of all I was not out of gas. And I had just put $5 gas in my truck and then tried to start it after that. It wouldnt start though. Battery and Alternator is fine. Checked that. Its a 5-speed stick. Does anybody know why my truck won't start? Maybe something to do with The FUEL PUMP? ps. I jumped up and down on my truck to swish some gas around. It almost started. I dunno. Thanks.
  • While highway driving my o/d off light started flashing. I have a 4.0l with 5 speed auto. What would cause this? Could it be sensing slippage?
  • I have a 94' Ranger Supercab with the 4.0 and manual transmission. I started having problems with my transmission making a noise when I go to change gears at a lower RPM. Lets say its around 1600 RPM when I put it in gear and I hit the gas slowly it will not really make the noise, but if I try to take off a little faster its sounds like my bearings or something is going out. It mostly made the noise when I put it in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear. 3rd gear is the worst. It will not make the noise when I shift out at a higher RPM like 3200.
    I brought it to my mechanic and he said it sounded like the bearings going out and he quieted the noise by changing the tranny fluid to motor oil. It helped alot but it is slowly getting worse. Has anybody else ever had this problem and how much was it to fix. Let me know.
    Thanks
    Chris
  • I have a 2001 4wd extra cab XLT off road package- I have had my front end checked 2 times, by 2 different dealers - only 9000 miles an never driven off road (PAMPERED BIG TIME )-I keep chopping the outside edges of my front tires -It appears after about 1500 miles -Both dealers said I was within specs and saw no other problems- I am told this is the nature of the beast - I know the old Ford front ends were bad, but my 97 4wd I traded in never did this - Dealer gave me new Pirelli Scorpions to replace the RTS Goodyears and I love them to pieces and do not want them to get to the point like the last ones which I could actually feel the chop on the highyway - Even with 3000 mile rotation they wear more than time on the back has to straighten out the rotated front ones -HELP!!!!!- Do I hear Toyota calling????- Really love the truck otherwise and I do, do a lot of intown driving- Is this normal 4wd character?- THANKS
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