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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • swede1064swede1064 Posts: 1
    I've got a '93 Ranger XLT SuperCab 4.0 V6. While working under the vehicle, I noticed that
    the "bracket" that holds the left rear leaf spring to the frame is shattered due to rust. This is the rear bracket closest to the bumper.
    Are these brackets replaceable?? At what cost?? Anybody else have this problem? I can't win, I had a front wheel bearing go bad last week. With 117,000 miles the truck has been good... until now. HELP!
  • jackkajackka Posts: 25
    I'm considering buying a new Ranger with the 4.0 OHC engine and manual tranny. If anyone has one (either a 2001 or 2002) I would like your opinions (reliability, gas mileage, etc.)

  • Lots of info there frey... Interesting that my 93 ranger with 2.3l is recommended to run 5-20. Just put in 5-30W castrol GTX for high milage. I have gone about half a tank on it, and it is a bit smoother and maybe a little more power (RPM's may have dropped a bit for certain speeds). but too soon to tell for gas milage. I doubt there would be much difference going to 5-20, but who knows until you try. Since I live in Texas and have 139,000 miles I figure the little extra viscosity rating would help keep my engine well covered.

    swede, bearings just don't go bad, they fail over time. You need to repack them with grease, especially after any water crossings, escapades near sand, or after 5-10 thousands miles. The older they are, the more likely they are starting to score or wear.

    As far as the bracket, I found a pretty neat website for cheap replacement body parts on vehicles. But I have it saved at work, I will let you know if I find anything on the bracket.
  • elmo98dogelmo98dog Posts: 1
    I'm considering purchasing a 2002 ranger, reg cab,short box,2.3L, 2wd, 5spd auto. I've seen 1 post concerning cooling system problems (hoses/radiators). Has anybody else seen this problem? Any other issues that I should be aware of? Also would appreciate feed-back as to what prices folks have paid for the vehicle I've described (with standard XLT package). Thanks much for your feed-back!!
  • webjeff2webjeff2 Posts: 21
    I purchased a new 2001 Ranger last summer, a 4 cylinder 2.3 ltr 5 speed. On the day of delivery when I returned home, the truck had 28 miles on the odo and after sitting in the garage for about and hour, I noticed a large puddle of coolant under the truck, it appeared to be a loose hose which I tightend. By the time I'd reached 2000 miles, I was back at the dealer. The rear springs were squeaking and had to be replaced, the air bag light was on due to a faulty sensor and was replaced, the radiator had developed a leak due to "poor welding at some of the seams" and was replaced, they performed the "seat belt recall" and adjusted the tie rod ends because the steering wheel was off center. Everything seemed to be fine for the next several months until I hit 6000 miles. I was checking the oil level and noticed coolant in the oil , this along with the fact that the truck had started to ping under acceleration recently. Well, I'd had enough, I traded the truck in that day. That was my last Ford truck so I went to Dodge (first time owning a Dodge) and bought the new body style 2002 Ram 1500 SLT V8 with 5 speed manual transmission. The gas mileage isn't nearly as good (16.5 mpg vs. 23 mpg) but this truck is powerful and at 5500 miles, I have ZERO complaints and have not had to return to the dealer at all!!!!!
  • Hi all,

    On my 2002 Ranger Edge V6 3.0 engined stick shift truck, I am getting an annoying rattle when idling in neutral that disappears when load is on the transmission or when the clutch is engaged.

    It is really loud. The truck sounds like it has a diesel block!

    I have taken it to two dealers who have said the noise is a normal 'roll-over' noise from the tranny.

    They even bought another edge stick in and it sounded exactly the same after the engine warmed up. It is reallt annoying.

    Is this normal?
    Has any one else experienced this?

    I can believe it is normal after hearing the other truck, but I find it unbelievable that Ford would put a truck out making such a loud noise and call it normal.

    The dealer advised me that after 1000+ miles I can switch to heavier transmission fluid, but that will make it hard to shift when the engine is cold according to him.

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
  • winter123winter123 Posts: 2
    1994 Ranger XLT, 4.0 2x4, 5 spd (72,000 miles)
    5 minutes after I filled my tank with Chevron Regular unleaded gas, the engine light came on. It began jolting/jerking on the freeway at 60 miles. When I come to stop it stalls/dies sometimes.
    When truck is stopped and idling the light comes on for a while, then it goes off. Any suggestion please help. The truck still has the original spark plugs. I did re-tight the gas cap.
  • rickc5rickc5 Posts: 378
    It sure doesn't sound "right" to me, but hey, what do I know?

    I have a new 2002 XLT with the auto tranny. No such noise from the auto. I've never before heard a noise described as a "roll-over" noise. I have no clue what that term implies.
  • I would change those plugs, and fuel filters too. You may consider getting a fuel injection cleaner to help unclog any injectors. That would be a cheap way to help fix any bad fuel problems. After that it gets more expensive

    While shopping for motorcycles I found an interesting site that gave lots of tips. One applied to cars and trucks too. It talked about filling up at a gas station right after the tanker truck fills up the stations tanks. By doing so, lots of dirt and grime gets mixed up and can make for a bad tank of gas. Their advice was to always go to the same place, and never right after such an event.

    If all these symptoms started after a tank of gas, I would go get some premium gas in there to dilute the bad gas. Chevron is usually a good place to go, but I sounds like something funny was going on.
  • Hello Rangeredge,
    I have a 2000 4cyl 5 speed stick shift GMC Sonoma with the same type of noise. I am told that it is normal. I have a couple of documented complaints on file at the dealership and if it gives problems in the future I will attempt to get warranty repairs since it showed up during the warranty. Sounds like marbles rolling around.
  • winter123winter123 Posts: 2
    Thank you midnight_stang for the suggestion
    how about adding stp gas treatment to the gas tank. is it going to hurt anything?
  • goldrangergoldranger Posts: 54
    I had a 90 2.3 5sp that some folks really thought was a diesel when idling in neutral. That trans uses atuo trans fluid and was light weight. I did replace the pilot bearing when I did the clutch, but the noise continued as soon as it warmed up. Is your quiet when cold? When I sold mine it had 174,000 miles on it and was still strong. I just lived with it. Have a 01 4.0 5sp auto now with 16K and love it. (except gas mileage)
  • p51dp51d Posts: 1
    Don't laugh! I have a 1989 2.3l/ 5 speed with 248,000 miles on it. The water pump failed 2,000 miles ago. It ran hot to the point of seizing up when the clutch was depressed. Miraculously no water found in the oil nor is it losing any any where else. With summer here I began running the air conditioner and it now runs hot to the point of boiling over which means no a/c. The radiator was rebuilt 2 years ago. The repalcemant water pump was from a discount place. I've installed a new clutch fan and thermostat from Ford.Good anti- freeze and hoses. Still runs hot when the a/c is turned on after about fifteen minutes. Is there any hope????
  • New waterpump, thermostat and radiator amounts to about half of all the water passages in the engine. You may want to think about flushing and cooling the entire system, especially the engine to get out any deposits internally.

    You should probably also think about installing an aftermarket electric fan on the radiator. You can even buy some that come with temperature sensors so they turn themselves on when a certain temp is reached in the radiator. However a full time fan would only keep the engine cooler, and the drawback would be it takes a bit longer to warm up. I think that is much better than boiling over, though...
  • I recently purchased a 99 Ranger with only 19K miles on it and it seems to sag in the rear a little , It is a Super-cab model with the 3.0 six in it. It also is the flairside XLT. Has anyone out their ever noticed this on their truck. It is not a previously wrecked truck for I knew the original owner. I have recently found out there are some TSB's out on this problem but as of this writing I have not been able to see what they say or see the possible causes or fixes.
    The TSB numbers are 99-3-7 Issued FEB. 99 Titled Suspension - Left Rear of Vehicle Seems Low and 00-10-06 Issued May 00 Titled Leaf Springs - Vehicle sits Low in Rear.
    Anyone with any info on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • ranger96ranger96 Posts: 16
    Im in the process of buying a 1996 Ranger. It has 67,000 miles. The check engine light(he said it is nothing to do with the engine) is on and so is the airbag light. The person that im buying it from said he was going to turn of the light but it cost 100.00 dollars. Is it commom for the lights to go on?Is it sapose to go on at 60,000 miles?And they are selling the truck for 5,500.00 dollars is it too cheap?
  • You can turn off the light yourself, just disconnect the battery for half a day. That will reset the computer to factory programming. However the engine light will probably come on again soon. It usually means there is a sensor that needs replacing, not that there is a mechanican problem(probably). At 60,000 sounds like a good time for an oxygen sensor(s), PCV valve, etc.

    So forget paying him the 100 bucks. And get your codes pulled from the computer after reseting it. The codes should tell you what's up, even if you get a mechanic to pull the codes before you buy it.
  • ranger96ranger96 Posts: 16
    I just heard that you have to change the timing belt at 60,000 miles is this true?If I do need to change it how much is it going to cost. And if the timing belt breaks is it the type that will make the valves and stuff break? THANKS
  • Get a haynes (or chiltons) book if you want to do it yourself. It should cost about 50 bucks or so, all parts and about 1-2 hours to do.

    The good thing about the ford 2.3l is that there is no valve to piston interference. That is, if the timing belt does break, the valves should not hit the pistons and you will stall. However damage can occur from the half second of random timing events before the engine shuts down (i.e. Combustion stroke with intake valve open)

    I believe a reasonable estimate for a professional replacement should be around 200 or 300 dollars tops.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    all Rangers have steel timing chains, no rubber belts, I4 and V6.
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