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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • It's a 2000 ranger, 25,000 miles, Auto, extended cab, flex-fuel.... just got paid $5000 by Ford because it's a lemon. Legal Costs to me: Nothing.

    Problem: AC compressor cycles SO friggin rapidly that it sounds like a clicking noise. was serviced 15 times (but I could have sued after 4 attempts). Completely sporadic problem... ended up wearing out the serpentine about 30K miles early!

    After everything is done and said, I've probably had the freon refilled 4 times, compressor and all components eventually replaced twice (or more for some switches)

    Nightmare doesn't end: Sporadicaly doesn't start - doesn't even turn over or click...but now I'm outta warranty. Send me an email if you can help. I'm a full-time student and a business owner and having the truck decide to not start is ruining my life (the dealerships have no idea what's happening) It seems to occur early/later afternoon and ends up starting after the sun sets. (I'm in Arizona and it's like 105 out)

    an email would be most helpful.
    Thanks,
    Andrew Walker
    walkera@email.arizona.edu
  • I tried to run a search on this and couldn't find anything, so I'm sorry if this is a repeat of a problem. On our 3 week old Ranger (that's already been in for a "Check Gage" light), is melting CD's. Both homemade and store bought have been in there. None of the homemade have had labels on them and have played in at least 10 other CD players with no problem. We're sceduled to take it in next week, but I was wondering if anyone else had this happen.
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    I would suggest that your dealer/mechanic is just incompetent.

    Regarding the A/C...a low Freon level can cause rapid cycling of the compressor. But, there is no reason to recharge the system unless there is proof (like a simple pressure measurement) that there is a leak. If there is a leak, it must be located and fixed.

    Regarding the no-start condition...the diagnostic codes stored in the computer should direct any mechanic to the cause.

    I would suggest that the two problems are related and are caused by an intermittent failure in the computer. It controls both the A/C and the engine. It is an expensive replacement, but it could be cheap considering what your time is worth.
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    I have a 2002 Mazda B4000 - same as a Ranger. My CDs do get a little warm but nowhere near melting. Hopefully, your dealer will just go ahead and replace it rather than mess you around. Might be good to show them the evidence.
  • Anyone have an idea as to how I can tell if the truck (used) I am purchasing as a limited slip. It is a 4.0 Auto. Thanks Rick
  • As in limited slip differential rear axel.

    Thanks
  • Should have an axle code in the door plate/sticker. I will have to find a reference list online for you somewhere....


    Heh, just found it....


    http://www.fordf150.net/howto/decode.htm

  • Thanks for the info about reading the door panel. Someone at Ford told me to read the axle tag on the actual axle and see if it has a letter "L" before the ratio ie L3.55

    Do you know of this?
  • eharri3eharri3 Posts: 645
    There's a fan in there that is supposed to spin to keep the radio cool. The thing may be overheating if the fan isn't working.
  • Took the truck up to the dealer today and they took the player out and have to send it off for replacement/repair. Not sure why they couldn't have just replaced it with one from the lot, but what do I know :P
  • nerdnerd Posts: 203
    You probably know more than the bums at the dealer. They could have easily swapped a unit for you, but they just figured that they had you hooked.

    My experience is that repairing car radios is a waste of time - the repair lasts only a few days. I hope you have better luck.
  • I need some advice. My '98 4.0 Supercab 4X4 has 40,000 miles and Ford has already replaced the Drive shaft at 20k miles as a TSB warranty item. I feel the same problem beginning again at about 35k miles if not 30. It was greatly accentuated last weekend on a trip to the Nevada heat. My purchased warranty expires at 48k miles and I had planned on getting attention to this problem before the warranty expires. I am convinced another replacement is a band-aid and will occur again. I had planned on keeping this jewel until at least 100k miles. I don't want to be spending the $700 out of pocket every 20,000 miles to buy a new drive shaft. The dealers work order listed the new shaft as due to "binding splines" It's very aggravating in stop & go traffic which I do quite a bit on the freeways. Should I trade it in or keep it? I really cant afford to do this but I will if needed. -Thanks
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    I have had similar troubles with my 2000 model Ranger (long cab, 4x4). I had a new alloy aluminum 4 inch job installed at about 13K miles. So far, so good. I could have bought the part for about 300 bucks, and I was ready to even though the truck was under warranty (I have a Blue OVal Dealer...what a joke). If you like the truck, MAKE SURE you get the latest ALUMINUM shaft, which is totally redesigned. I posted the TSB in an earlier post. It would be much cheaper to buy a shaft AGAIN rather than to get killed on depreciation (Ranger owners already have one of the fasted depreciating small trucks as it is). Good luck.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    MAKE SURE YOU GET THE NEWEST ALUMINUM shaft, NOT A STEEL ONE. THEY ARE MADE BY DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS !!
    Driveline - Thump/Clunk Noise
    Article No.
    01-11-11

    06/11/01

    ^
    NOISE - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" HEARD ON LIGHT
    ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR WHEN
    BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK
    SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT
    SPLINES 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY
    ^
    DRIVESHAFT - "THUMP"/"CLUNK" NOISE HEARD
    ON LIGHT ACCELERATION FROM A STOP OR
    WHEN BRAKING AND COMING TO A STOP - SLIP/STICK SENSATION AT REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIP - JOINT SPLINE - 4X4 SUPER CAB ONLY

    FORD:
    1998-2001 RANGER

    This article is being republished in its entirety to update the model year applications for the service parts required.

    ISSUE

    Some 4X4 Super Cab vehicles may exhibit a low frequency "thump" type noise/vibration on light acceleration from a stop, and/or when
    coming to a stop with light to moderate braking. This may be caused by axle wind up during acceleration or deceleration and creating a
    stick/slip condition at the rear driveshaft slip-joint splines causing the "thump"/"clunk" sensation.

    ACTION

    Replace 3.5" steel driveshaft with 4.0 "aluminum rear driveshaft. This requires installation of a revised fuel tank skid plate. for vehicles built
    before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    1.
    Reference yellow balance mark on existing steel driveshaft. Using chalk, paint-pen or equivalent, index a mark on the rear axle flange
    in-line with yellow mark on driveshaft. This will enable the new driveshaft to be reinstalled in an original balanced state.
    2.
    Remove existing steel driveshaft from vehicle.
    3.
    Using the previous reference mark on the axle, align the applicable revised aluminum driveshaft yellow mark to the axle flange mark.
    This will assure correct orientation of the new service driveshaft.
    4.
    Install new service driveshaft and t6rque all eight (8) fasteners to 88-119 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
    5.
    Remove fuel tank skid plate for vehicles built before 1/15/2001 equipped with the 4X4 Off-Road package.
    6.
    Replace with new service Skid Plate (1L5Z-9A147-AA).
    7.
    Torque fuel tank skid plate fasteners to 34-46 Nm (25-34 lb-ft).
    8.
    Verify condition has been corrected by accelerating from a stop, and/or with light to moderate braking when coming to a stop.

    Parts Block

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    SUPERSEDES: 01-9-6
    WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under the Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage.

    OPERATION/DESCRIPTION/TIME

    DEALER CODING

    OASIS CODES: 597997, 702000, 702200, 702300, 703000, 703200, 703400
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    MAKE SURE that the shaft is greased properly, and at proper intervals. This is very imortant. Centripetal force can have a nasty habit of flinging lubricant into the boot, OUT of the very mating surfaces that require the lubrication. Then, the splines can get galled, and the whole phenomenon can recur. The new alloy shaft is heliarced to splines that are machined with closer tolerances, and are of a harder steel allow to insure resistance to deformation. DOUBLE CHECK to make sure they were lubed properly IN THE FIRST PLACE !! It is possible some young mechanic simply slapped it in there and did NOT lubricate it to spec. Also, Ford requires the grade of grease required; that is ALSO important !! Regular chassis grease is not used, and may leak out, as it may not take the friction related heat of a spinning, vibrating shaft.
  • Thanks for the input. So your telling me that the dealer will know acknowledge the Aluminium shaft and install with no problems - thats cool.

    One more thing. Sometimes after coming to a stop I notice a low pitched hum, like a high pressure fluid travelling through a hose coming from the engine. I can't find anything on it. Any Ideas?
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    I am not acknowledging that your dealer will do ANYTHING. All I am saying is that my dealer, AFTER I took him the printed TSB, finally did acknowledge the problem. Print the TSB out and take it to your dealer. If that gets no results, write to Ford registered mail (return receipt requested) and tell them the problem. You will very likely get support. Ford doesn't need to lose any more customers, as they are already hemorrhaging money like a stuck sow. Good luck...and BTW, my next truck will be a Toyota.
  • I've got a 2001 Ranger Edge with power side windows. Yesterday a roommate borrowed it and came back with the driver side mirror almost dangling from its post. There don't appear to be any breaks in the plastic and the glass face is intact. Any suggestions on how to get the housing mounted back properly?

    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Yea, tell your roomie you are taking it to Ford to get fixed, and he's going to pay for it.
  • niksniks Posts: 1
    94 xlt with 4 cyl, 75k miles, recent tune-up - occasionally the check engine light comes on, then goes off with no noticeable running differences. i know that could be anything, but, 2 or 3 times per year, this truck will stall or refuse to restart; it has spark when cranking, seems to want to catch (sneezes a little)- seems like a fuel prob. (like a vapor lock condition on non-fuel injected cars). If i let it sit a while, it will start right up & run fine for another bunch of months!!!

    tune up included air & fuel filters, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel additive.

    will O2, MAP or airflow sensors do this ? if so, why not more often? (by the way, the check engine light does not happen at the same time as the starting problem)

    thanks!! nik
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