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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • sabby129sabby129 Posts: 1
    It has 31K miles, 1998, standard transmission, AC, it is an XLT standard cab. They're asking for $7995. It sounds good and the truck runs great. Does this sound too good? If you have any suggestions, please share! Thanks!
  • vball12vball12 Posts: 1
    I have just purchase a new ranger 4x4 and am having the same problem with the fuel gauge. I found out from a friend at the bedford plant that engineering has to come up with a new design. Hope to hear of it soon. will keep posted
  • awhitt7awhitt7 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2001 ranger XLT 4x2 2.5 liter. I notice when I start it and after about 2 seconds there is a clunk noise. It makes the sound once, right after i start it up. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks
  • beansmombeansmom Posts: 2
    The check engine light will come on if the gas cap is not closed completely or if gas quality is bad such as watered down fuel from cheap stations. easy fix. add better fuel or try retightening cap. then car must be restarted at least three times. this will reset computer. This also explained in owner manual. I had same problem since avoiding the gas station I suspect gave me the bad gas,this problem has not repeated its self.
  • I own a regular cab 2001 Ranger XLT 4x2 3.0 with manual. 3,500 miles on various 87 octane fuels with no, i repeat no ping. Even when running AC and starting off on a steep hill.The motor has more than enough power for my needs and gets between 20-22 in mixed mostly Beltway traffic.I also own a 2001 Ford SportTrac with auto and 4.0 motor biggest diffrence to me is the 4.0 is smoother, it now has 8000 miles.Also the 4.0 in the ST averages around 16 but it is an auto trans 4x4 and much heavier than the Ranger so cant really compare real numbers there.I love both trucks, small fit and finish problems mostly on the ST as its a brand new model, but dealer has repaired all.
  • woodgewoodge Posts: 11
    Does your Ranger have the 3.0 FFV (Flexible Fuel Engine)? Have you complained to the dealership? Has it been seen more than three times at the dealership for this problem? If so you may have a "Lemon".

    Ford factory engineering know of the problem/complaint, and they have no fix! Our dealership's customer service manager confirmed this, and felt it would be best if the vehicle was returned as a "Lemon".

    Last weekend Ford, and the dealership took back our 2000 Taurus SE (FFV-Vulcan 3.0) due to 14 months of repeated shop visits for engine ping. The final straw was when they finally changed the processor (computer), and the ping was even worse. We now have a 2001 Taurus SES, with the basic 3.0 Vulcan (no FFV). Ford and our dealer really came through for us with an exceptional offer to rectify the "Lemon" we owned.

    We also own a 1996 Ranger XLT, 4.0 2x4 (78,000 miles). It has been a great truck!

    Good Luck!
  • What does FFV mean? I know it something about the fuel, but that's about it...
  • woodgewoodge Posts: 11
    FFV means "Flexible Fuel Vehicle". The engine is the base 3.0L Vulcan V6 only with a special fuel system and fuel lines. The engine will accept ethanol/gas mixtures up to I believe what is a 85/15 mix. The main reason for the special fuel system and lines is that the standard fuel system on the Vulcan have plastic parts where as the FFV uses all metal. The ethanol will eat up the plastic in short order.
  • PFFlyer@EdmundsPFFlyer@Edmunds Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,808
    Hopefully one of you can help this user out!

    1 of 2 Anyone else have a Ranger with Spark Knock? by supercab2 Apr 26, 2001 (02:08 pm)

    I have been living with this for 3 years. Ford Motor Company cannot come up with a fix for my 1998 XLT 3.0 liter V6. The truck does have automatic transmission. I have decided that it's time to switch back to Toyota. Anyone ever have spark Knock with a Toyota? I'm growing more and more frustrated each year that I own this truck. I like everything else on the truck except this stupid knock problem. Ford does not treat all customers the same!!!!!


    Moderator - Hatchbacks & Hybrid Vehicles

  • bobhohbobhoh Posts: 6
    Hello. I recently purchased a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L with the flexible fuel package. I have been having several "problems" since purchasing this used vehicle. First, I have some difficulty shifting gears, primarily 1-3. I have driven manual transmission Ford vehicles for over 10 years and I have never had a car that has this much difficulty finding its way into low gears. Any comments? I have been told that this is normal. Also, the truck has an extremely rough idle. I admit that I have never owned a pick-up/truck, but my old 1988 Ford Bronco II never idled this rough. When I sit at lights the truck constantly shutters or wiggles, sometimes worse than others. Once again, the dealer says it's fine. Is it?
  • Is anybody having problems with rear doors on their 2000 or 2001 Ranger? if you are, what type of problems? I am having problems closing my rear doors. I have to slam the rear door really hard to close. If I don't, rear door does not latch at the top.
  • silvermustang-> Try adding some lube or anti-sieze to the moving parts on the latch and sticker bar. Don't forget hinges too, that might help your door problem.

    bobhoh->Well my 2.3l was idling a little rough, so I cleaned out the throttle body, cleaned the airbox and replaced the MAP sensor. And all this at about 110k miles. It only took about 30 minutes and 15-20 bucks. As far as the shifting, that's harder to guess a solution, but I'd start with the shifter, then the linkage, then the clutch, then the tranny. Order of price and easy access. Good luck, maybe some other owners know of a possible cause and effect on that one.
  • I am not sure if Ford has addressed this issue in a TSB, however, you may want to check out the Chevy Silverado Problems Post.

    Some time ago individuals were having major problems with their xtra cab doors in cold weather (32 degrees F and below). Chevy resolved this problem with a kit from the Mfr. that replaced the weather stripping and the nylon door linkages where the two doors met.

    Are you in a colder climate? I would definately address this with the dealer.

  • A few posts back someone had posted a message about a bad A/C smell.

    This is actually caused by leaving your vehicle on re-circulte after you shut off the truck after having run the A/C. When you do this and the cold, dry air stops flowing through the vent system, the plastic vents are cold enough to condense water and do. Eventually the water, after sitting in a truck on a warm day, will begin to stale.

    To remedy this, the last few minutes of your trip/commute, switch your A/C system from re-circulate to fresh. When you shut the truck off, leave the system on the fresh air setting. This will allow fresh air to circulate through you vehicle and exit through the exhause vents usually located in the rear quarter panels.

    Unless you are living in a high dust area, this should allow air flow through your car on a hot without detriment.

  • There's another forum out there on an ignition switch replacement, but since I can't seem to posts there, here's the solution to anybody with the problem, care of Haynes Repair manual.

    -Disconnect negative battery cable
    -Remove the steering column cover
    -locate the single key warning buzzer wire, and disconnect it
    -Turn the ignition switch to the run position
    -Place a 1/8 inch punch in the hole in the casting surrounding the lock cylinder. (Physically near the tip of the key inside the cylinder) Depress the punch while pulling out on the lock cylinder to remove it from the column housing.
    -Install the lock cylinder by turning it to the run position and depressing the retaining pin. Insert the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing. Make sure the cylinder is completely seated and aligned in the interlocking washer before turning the key to the off position. This will permit the retaining pin to extend into the hole.
    -turn the lock to ensure operation is correct in all positions
    -The remainder of installation is the the reverse of removal.

    I hate the factory radio's that require those two U shaped tools to remove. It took me half a day to shape some coat hangers into the correct position. But my alpine and 600 watt(tot/peak) amps are definately worth it! Later I found out most stereo and factories will lend you the Ford Tool... oh well...
  • Although I'm not a mechanic, it's seems as though if the individual want's to erradicate their spark knock, I would take it to a skilled shop that has a what I think is called an orthoscope (basically a video cam the size of a pencil eraser on a flexible, but controllable shaft).

    By removing each injector, the shop can check visually for carbon build-up in each cylinder and piston head using a video monitor. This is probably best performed by the dealer and if it's been happening for over the last year, I would imagine that this should retroactively be considered under warranty.

    I assume the engine has already had the normal computer diagnostic (which it should first if not done already). Again best done at the local dealer.

    If the dealer refuses to work it under warranty, I would contact the Better Business Bureau via their web form. Resoultion with the BBB usually can be acheived within 3-4 weeks.

    For working with the BBB, you can check out Obyone in the Chevy Silverado Problems. That guy has heard it all.

  • david6david6 Posts: 75
    I have a 2001 extended cab, and I have found that to keep the "door ajar" light off, I generally need to keep my hand on the rear doors when I close them, so that they shut firmly. I don't have to do this hard, and it seems that this prevents the door from bouncing back a little, keeping the "door ajar" light from coming on around corners.

    You mentioned water leaks in your subject - I have found water dripping off of my frame under the engine, and traced it to what looks like the a/c compressor - it seems to be condensation when I have the air set to "cool" on a warm day - even with the a/c off. I plan to mention next time I have service done, as I'm worried about possible future rust on the frame after many years of this.
  • Have you tried any of the additives?

    There are quite a variety of different injector, piston, valve, and bore cleaners out there.

    It wouldn't hurt to try a few different ones (not at the same time).
  • david6david6 Posts: 75

    On my 2001 there is no option for recirculate vs. fresh air. Your explanation makes sense even still . . . the smell tends to appear only if I shut off air flow, even when parking.

    I know the owners manual dictates all sorts of ways to set the air flow when parked, when driving, when driving through snow, etc., but I get this same smell whether using hot or cold settings, and I haven't really used the a/c yet. This is another item I plan to mention to my dealer, but it's not that bothersome to me . . . it fades after about ten seconds.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    Ah... on some vehicles, MAX = recirculate. Just leave the selector on vent when you turn the car off or just run the vent for the last few minutes of your trip/commute.

    I would be surprised if this doesn't help the problem.

    Hope that helps,
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