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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • erkkilaerkkila Posts: 22
    I have a 2000 Mazda B3000 that pinged badly on 87 octane gas since it was new. The only solution I could find was to run it on 89 octane fall through spring and 91 or up in the summer. Just before Christmas, the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the EGR valve. With our ridiculous ripoff increasing gas prices here in Canada I got fed up last week and tried 87 octane just to see what would happen. Not even the slightest hint of pinging, even with lugging the engine in fourth and fifth gears.

    BTW if you are reading this airman53, it sounds like you might have a bad ball joint. I had the same squeaking over bumps that you are talking about. I was lucky in that mine was covered under warranty.
  • bpiperbpiper Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ranger, Ext. Cab, 4x4 Off Road, 4.0 Liter, 5 Speed Auto with 51,000 miles. I have been experiencing the annoying transmission "clunk" when starting and stopping as many of you have. Took it into the local Ford dealership for repair armed with the TSB. They were aware of this common problem. Took them 2 days to order and install. Now I have the aluminum driveshaft and the truck shifts better than it ever did. The drivetrain is truly better than it was when it was new. Cost was $270 for the driveshaft, $58 for the skid plate, and $65 for the labor. Well worth the money.
  • jbariljbaril Posts: 25
    I just bought a black 03 Ranger XL 2.3 four banger 5-speed, w/a long bed. No bells or whistles. Only options are A/C, split bench seat w/cloth. Hope I don't have any problems, but it looks like most problems are reserved for 6 cylinder, extended cabs, XLTs.

    Guess we'll see.
  • I bought a used 99 Ranger Extended Cap 3.0 XLT I Have had problems with the shifting since I got it with it being hard to go into gear. I was told to pump the clutch if this helped it was the master cylinder. It did help so I took it in to have the MC replaced they did I was driving the same day and the clutch went all the way to the floor and was engaged in gear. Had it towed they said a locking ring had come off that they hadnt gotten it on right. They put it back together same day it doesnt it again. The tech says there is no retaining clip just the ring that locks into place this doesnt seem right anyone know what might be the problem??? Thanks in Advance.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    Here is a tranny TSB. Don't konw if this will anwer your specific problem, but it may be a start:
    M/T - M5OD Buzzing/Grinding Noise
    Article No.
    00-3-6

    02/07/00
    ^ NOISE - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999

    ^ TRANSMISSION - M5OD - "BUZZING" AND/OR "GRINDING" NOISE DURING 2-3 SHIFT - VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH M5OD TRANSMISSION AND BUILT BEFORE 11/1/1999

    FORD:
    1998-2000 EXPLORER, RANGER

    ISSUE
    Some vehicles may exhibit a "buzzing" and/or "grinding" noise or a "notchy" feeling during the 2-3 upshift. This may be caused by the 3-4 synchronizer.

    ACTION
    Replace the 3-4 synchronizer assembly. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    First, verify that vehicle exhibits a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation during 2-3 upshift and determine it your transmission serial number is greater than the serial number listed below. If the vehicle does NOT exhibit a buzzing/grinding/notchy feeling/sensation and is greater than the serial number listed on the chart below, proceed with other appropriate diagnostics for repair. Reference the appropriate Workshop Manual for assistance.
    NOTE ALL TRANSMISSIONS WITH SERIAL NUMBERS GREATER THAN THE ONES LISTED BELOWARE NOT AFFECTED. USE THE CHART BELOW AND THE SAMPLE TAG INFORMATION TO ASSIST IN DETERMINING IF THIS FIX IS APPLICABLE. THE TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER IS LOCATED ON THE TAG ATTACHED TO THE LEFT SIDE OF THE TRANSMISSION.

    TRANSMISSION SERIAL NUMBER INFORMATION

    Transmission Application Tag Transmission Serial Number

    2.5L I-4 4X2 F87A - AB less than 0629756
    3.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - CA less than 0628220
    3.0L V-6 4X4 F87A - DA less than D624514
    4.0L V-6 4X2 F87A - EA less than D639401
    4.0L V-6 4X4 FB7A - FA less than 0627480

    1. Drain all fluid from the transmission and remove the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.

    2. Disassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.

    3. Inspect the brass blocking rings for any damage. If they are not damaged, reuse on reassembly.

    4. Replace the synchronizer. Additionally, replace brass blocking rings if necessary.

    5. Reassemble the transmission following the procedure outlined in the appropriate Workshop Manual.

    6. Reinstall the transmission and fill with new fluid. Test drive to verify repair.

    NOTE AFTER THE REPAIR, THE TRANSMISSION MAY FEEL STIFF, ESPECIALLY IF THE BRASS BLOCKING RINGS WERE REPLACED. THIS WILL GO AWAY AFTER DRIVING THE VEHICLE FOR SEVERAL KILOMETERS/MILES, AS THE NEW BLOCKING RINGS NEED TIME TO RESEAT AGAINST THE GEAR CONE.

    PART NUMBER PART NAME

    F2TZ-7124-AB Synchronizer Assembly (2.5L And 3.0L)
    F2TZ-7124-CA Synchronizer Assembly (4.0L)

    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE
    WARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLY
    OASIS CODES: 505000

    Copyright © 2003 ALLDATA LLC
    Terms of Use
  • Any one who has just purchased a new 2.3 Ranger may want to check the BlueOval News. They are reporting defective cyl heads on 2.3L Rangers built at both plants between 2/3/03 and 2/6/03. Check with you dealer or call Ford VIN Support @ 800-555-9601 and refer to SSI03T01. BlueOval news reports engines prone to early failure.

    good luck.
  • dom55dom55 Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 2003 Ranger Supercab XLT 3.0 v6 on 3/29. The steering column/wheel is not straight, it is slightly shifted to the left. That is, if I sit perfectly straight in the seat in the normal driving position, the left side of the wheel is further away from me than the right side. I got suspicious that the vehicle had some transportation damage that was fixed by the dealership. I went to a dealership close to where I work and went in the new truck lot and sat in every Ranger with an open door. I put the antennae across the wheel, and sure enough, every Ranger steering column/wheel was shifted to the left. Anyone else notice this?
  • I own a 2003 Regular cab edge, and will have to check that on my way home. I haven't noticed it yet, but I can see how it would bug ya.
  • jtc411jtc411 Posts: 15
    Hey guys, i am new to this forum. I have a 98 ford ranger xlt with the 2.5l 4 cylinder, with the automatic. I just bought this truck about 2 months ago, and have had a rough low idle since day one. When i went to the dealer they replaced the MAF(mass airflow sensor), put a new fuel filter in, and had full fuel service(injectors, line etc). They also cleaned the throttle body, and i brought it back again and still no luck. The truck when i stop idles down really low...then comes back up and stays normal for a little while...then idles really rough again. I am stuck, i dont know what to do...does anyone have any suggestions? they would be appreciated
  • replace the PCV valve? The rest sound like a good attempt... Maybe you can adjust the throttle body for an extra 100 rpm's at idle?
  • jtc411jtc411 Posts: 15
    yes, i just came back from the dealership again and he manually adjusted the idle. He said its not very common, and that the 4 cylinder generally has a rough idle just because its a small engine. But now that he manually adjusted the idle it runs just fine. I must say though, i should have bought the 6 cylinder, i was going to get a 4.0 6 cylinder in the identical truck, but opted for the 4 cylinder because of the fuel economy, and i must say i dont think its that big of a difference...im only getting about 19mpg
  • my old 93 had the 2.3l, same engine as you, just a little less stroke. It received 21 MPG in the city even after 140,000 miles. Other than remove the air intake snorkle, and keep good wires and plugs in it, it was bone stock. I did run injector cleaner every once in a while, and also notice a big difference from using zMax. I tried duralube and other brands but they just didn't seem to last. zMax make my engine purr like a kitten, and greatly reduced internal friction. You might look into it as your truck increases in milage. Hopefully the recent fuel filter change will help too. And don't forget the o2 sensors...

    Also, FYI, my 2003 3.0l gets about 16 MPG in the city. Which is quite different from the 20+ you can get with a 2.3l, but my engine only has 2,500 miles on it. Still gotta break her in. I have heard the 4.0l getting equal or better milage, but I am sure it will suck it down worse if you have the lead foot. A manual transmission usually increases your MPG too.
  • chstr1000chstr1000 Posts: 32
    I have a 2002 Ranger. I do all services myself. Just wondering if anyone could tell me if there are any grease fittings. I have not been able to find any. Just curious.

    Thanks, David
  • dunny6dunny6 Posts: 6
    I have an 2002 Ranger with the 6 CD changer. I tried to eject a CD and I got a CD Error on the display. Now the CD opening is open, but I cant eject (or play) any CDs. Has anyone had this problem, is there a quick fix, or do I have to take it to the dealer.

    Thanks.
  • dunny6,

    I have an 01 with the 6 CD radio. I always felt warm to me, then one day it went stone dead. Dealer replaced it with a brand new one. The new one does not even feel warm at all. If it's under warranty, take it back, they should replace it with out a problem. The Ford audio warranty for all SE US is here in Jax, FL. They were suspossed to open the radio (Ford dealer won't do it) and return my 6 CDs. Took a letter to the GM of the dealer to get them to move on that. I seem to remember reading an earlier msg on one of these boards of this radio getting hot and melting CDs causing them to stick. Get a new radio.

    Good Luck
    Goldranger
  • harriet4harriet4 Posts: 2
    I have a 1986 Ranger that has been nothing but problems since I bought it - but I keep it for my son's insurance at this point. I've been looking for a new truck, and was very disappointed in the Tacoma; the cab is tiny, and the power is poor. The Tundra seems too large. SO, what I am looking for is info from current Ranger owners to find out if they are better than when I bought mine. Are they reliable? Do you need a full-time mechanic to keep it running? Thanks!
  • harriet4harriet4 Posts: 2
    51000 is NOT a lot of miles for most vehicles - maybe for Fords! That's barelygetting started for Toyotas and Subarus!
  • jroman4jroman4 Posts: 1
    Upon cold starting my truck it doesn’t want to run. On some warm starts it acts the same. But once I drive it awhile and warms up it is fine. Upon staring it cold I have to drive the first few miles with a foot on the brake and one on the accelerator so that when I stop the truck doesn't die. I dropped it off at an ASE certified mechanics shop and they can’t figure out the problem. If anyone can advise if the have had similiar problems and can point out any possible causes and fixes for this problem it would be appreciated. Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've heard these symptoms come from a defective temperature sensor.

    You have 2 temp sensors, one for the temp gauge, and another for the 'computer', telling it when the engine is cold/hot. The 'computer' one is probably bad. Both are on or around the thermostat housing. I think the one you need to replace has 2 wires to it......
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