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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • nra1871nra1871 Posts: 26
    I got that clatter on my 3L 99 Ranger. Ford tried a number of things, including replacing the computer and ignition coils, and advancing the timining. Nothing fixed it. I was able to minimize it by hitting the overdrive button when I was around town. This prevented the transmission from shifting into 4th at 40mph, as Ford seems to have programmed it to do. I think the strain of the engine trying to accellerate in such a high gear made the noise a lot worse. I eventually gave up and just lived with it until I sold it due to a number of other issues.
  • tgordotgordo Posts: 6
    Been trying to get Voltage to the Frame Fuel Pump Connector.Reads less than 2 Volts!Bench tested pump at 12 volts,works.Tested Inertia Switch,got contiuity and 12 volts at the connector.Replaced Relay and got 12 volts there.Fuse is OK.Is there another pump in the Tank?Is the Fuel Pump Controlled thru the EEC-IV Computer?Can I get a Cheap Diag. Tester,If neede.Got a Chiltons Electronic Engine Controls Book,but only goes up to 85.Can we Use the Jumper Wire Test?Or is there any code related to Fuel Pump and Controls?Got the 2.9L. V6.Thanks T.
  • seyorniseyorni Posts: 9
    JTC, You can increase power with a low resistance intake & exhaust -- air filter & muffler -- but keep in mind this will lean your fuel mixture and cause your engine to run hot. You can counter this by enriching your fuel delivery, but with a computerised fuel injection system this could be a major project. An aftermarket cam could make a big difference, but I don't know if anyone makes these. Have you considered a Jacob's ignition system? It's one of the few aftermarket mods that actually work. Jacobs guarentees an increase in both power and gas mileage or your money back.
  • harim18harim18 Posts: 5
    I have a "94 Ranger 4x2, 3.0 with 86K. When you start out and your speed gets toward 15mph you get a hard shift from first to second. If you accelerate slow and easy it shifts smoothly. Also in town when the trans. is shifting up thru the gears and you have to back off the accelerator, say between third and fourth, the trans. make a "clunking" sound. Would appreciate all advice, comments, and suggestions etc.
    Thank you!!
  • Sounds like your transmission oil viscosity is too high, or just getting to old. What's the last time you had it flushed and the filter changed?
  • harim18harim18 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. I checked and the trans fluid was changed at 64K. The standard Mercon product was used and done by a Ford dealer. Are you saying the trans is old or the fluid is old?? Please explain about semi-synthetic vs synthetic etc.
    The fan is cracked and doesn't look to good. Will it fly apart and tear things up??
  • I would definitely have it flushed. I don't remember if it came from my 93 owners manual or just when I worked at firestone, but automatics transmissions should be flushed and replace the filter every 1-2 years. Hopefully that will help clean out any internal buildup in the valve body, and also clean out any metal particles in the oil. If that doesn't help, or the symptoms come back, the problem is probably gonna require a rebuild.

    You truck is nearing 10 years in age, and even with relatively low milage, a bill for 79 bucks now (standard transmission flush and filter) beats a 1-2 grand bill for replacing or remanufacturing the transmission. I can't speak from any experience with synthetics, as I ran castrol GTX, and whatever mecron I could get for cheap. I would just go with periodic flushes, and use any mecron fluid. The dealership would definitely use what is required.

    On your fan, it would be a good idea to replace it. I've seen one break apart on a sweat 50's thunderbird, and well, he fixed that, his radiator hoses, and his hood. You have an electric fan right? That should be an easy replacement from any autoparts store, just might have to rewire it from the factory harness/plug.
  • I settled for this Fx4 Level II because I could not afford a Rubicon and it was more practical. My payments where less than a lease with Jeep. I owned this truck for four days (308 miles)and was very happy. On the fifth day the OD/off light started to flash and it started bucking like a bronco. It has now been five days (out of the nine that I've owned it)and they still can't figure out what's wrong. They changed the computer and are looking for "stuck" valves in the valve body, in other words, they are just ripping it apart until they find something or get lucky. I thought I got a good deal on a good truck but after reading through this forum I'm afraid I made a grave mistake that I will have to live with for a while. There is a big difference reading through the Jeep Wrangler forum and the Ford Ranger forum. They all seem happy with nothing to complain about. Just shoot me!
  • Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Ranger. Hopefully everything will get worked out by the dealership soon. You might want to check out some websites that display TSB's that could help with your truck.

    www.nhtsa.gov and www.alldata.com are two that come to mind.
  • seyorniseyorni Posts: 9
    I have a '03 long bed Ranger, on which the so called "optional" suspension package is a required extra. I find it raises the truck up about 3" and stiffens an already stiff ride.
      Does anyone know what this package consists of? Are there blocks I could remove? Shock change?
  • deuskiddeuskid Posts: 20
    i just bought this truck from the original owner. only 52,4xx miles on it. Pristene condition. has a 4 cyl.

    what i need to know is:

    what milage does the timing belt get changed?

    is it a belt or chain?

    is the engine the type that if the timing belt breaks then it harms the engine.
  • if it's the same 2.3l found in 1993 models (I think it is) then It will have a belt, and it is a non-interference motor, where it shouldn't have valve to piston contact if the belt breaks. However that doesn't mean you don't have combustion problems (i.e. engine grenades) if the belt breaks while doing 70 on the highway. I believe 60,000 miles is the recommended interval. Since you have not reached that, but you do have a much higher than average age for that engine, I would have it replaced anyway for peace of mind.

    And I just checked my old Haynes manual. It is a belt.
  • My 2001 Ford Ranger has a light metal clicking sound when you turn either right or left. The tire store where I had my brakes done told me it
    was the bearings (4 wheel drive) I took it to the dealer and he said it was the lower ball joints. Has anybody had the same problem with this truck?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Specifically, why did your dealer change the muffler and catalytic converter? And what code did the check engine light end up being?
    Was the driveshaft replaced due to vibration? What do you mean by chain drive rattle?
  • •Muffler had defective baffles •CATs had bad shields • Drive Shaft replaced due to thud in transmission when changing gears on acceleration and decceleration - Ford had the drive shaft updated •Check engine light for EGR •Bad window seal from factory •Chain drive as named by Ford engineers, but basically the timing chain rattles when the truck changes gears during acceleration @ 2000-3000rpms. The chain I think is hitting the guides - it is the most annoying sound.
  • I felt sorry for you until you said "Don't buy a Ranger and definitely don't buy a Ford. Go Japanese like Toyota, all the trucks are built in America so we're still giving American's money."

    I'm sorry you've had a bad experience, but you are kidding yourself if you think your situation is the standard to which all Rangers (and all Fords) apply. I know you want to blow off some steam, but realistically, you are in the minority on this one.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Catalytic had bad shields-do you mean it fell apart internally or the heat shield above it rattled? I am wondering if maybe you had a complaint about an exhaust rattle and in replacing the muffler and the catalytic part(s) they weren't just guessing at the problem. The driveshaft problem must have been a u-joint that ran dry and failed prematurely, but I wonder why they replaced the whole driveshaft. EGR: did they have to replace the entire EGR valve or something controlling it? As far as the "chain rattle," I believe you're actually hearing pinging or detonation. The timing chain should be hitting the tensioners all the time, as the tensioners are preloaded to put a specific pressure on the chain. Actually, it would be a much bigger problem if the chain was NOT hitting the guides/tensioners. But the dealership should be making an effort to take care of your engine noises either way. You have an automatic trans?
  • Thanks everyone for your comments. Midnight, you're right, i am a minority on this one since i feel that despite the Ranger's reputation, i got stuck with a bad one. I am still very angry and frustrated about my situation so please excuse my anger.

    Wijoco, i think you're also right about the guessing part. The exterior heat shields were coming off, the service kept putting new brackets on them to help stop the rattling. Since the shields are tack welded on they couldn't do anything, and they couldn't tell if there was a slight crack on the inside. I owned a Mercury Tracer for ten years and just sold it, it still runs great but that had really bad CATS and were replaced twice. So i didn't want to deal with another CAT problem on a Ford. Yeah, it's an automatic.

    The driveshaft problem is a known problem that's listed on their TSB. They've changed the driveshaft to a new composite material and the new one has stopped the jerking on acceleration and decceleration.

    The chain rattle is also listed on the TSB and i believe they are changing the guides. It seems like you guys know a lot more about cars and trucks than i do so my only best explanation is just a regurgitation of what the engineer said.

    The EGR sensor was faulty and replaced as explained by the service guy, I'm not sure if the whole valve itself was replaced.

    As for my feelings on Ford, their customer service is really bad and they have no real answers, no way on contacting the regional office to help with finding answers to problems. The customer service hotline just records your statements and or problems and just places a call to the dealership.

    I have a Toyota Corolla as a commute car and their service is so much better. I had some simple issues and they went out of their way to have the problem fixed without lip service. They also noticed a problem with some of their records pertaining to the vin number and out of the blue called me to have everything rectified. They did all the leg work and i didn't have to go to the dmv.

    Unclebob2, I have the same sound when steering extremely left or right and my research has found that it is a common problem. A friend of mine with a similar Ranger brought his in and while i'm not sure if it is the steeringstop, ball joint or the cv boot, the techs greased and sprayed lube over everything - seemed to work for him.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Sounds to me like you're not getting the best treatment from your dealership. Maybe ask around about better Ford dealers in your area, and then one of them would be more willing to do something about that heat shield rattle. Sometimes a good dealer can make a bad car tolerable! Hope the next 20,000 is better for you...
  • deuskid,
    I had a 90 with the 2.3 and had belt changed @ 90K. It was still
    in good shape but just starting to crack on the teeth side of the
    belt. If you aren't hitting red line on each shift, I'd go for 75-85K.While you are that far into it, may want to change thermostat also, it's right there in the open while changing the belt.

    good luck
    goldranger
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