Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1363739414298

Comments

  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    I keep seeing that you all use an acronym called TSB, I think that is what it is.

    What does that stand for and what is it?

    Thanks,
    kimble989
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    I purchased a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT SuperCab in December of '03. Its an automatic V6, 4.0L, SOHC engine. I love the truck and how it drives, when it drives. I have recently ran into a problem that two different dealerships in four visits have still not been able to tackle.

    While driving the truck it will start to sputter, you will then lose your speedometer, then the truck slips itself into neutral. It is still running, but just slips into neutral. Then the overdrive light and ABS lights on the dash begin to flash at 100mph. You simply coast off the side of the road, turn it off, let it sit for about a minute or two and start it back up and you are good to go for another 2 days or so, sometimes less, before it happens again.

    I've been told that a wiring harness can do this under the drivers seat if corroded, but both dealerships (very reputable ones) have found nothing. I paid $200 plus labor b/c they thought it might be the alternator overcharging, but happened again after I had the truck for only 3hrs. The only thing I can get from them is that all of the codes read high voltage.

    Anyone have a clue? I cannot afford to be without a vehicle for a fifth trip into the dealer for another 1-2 wks.
    Thanks,
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    TSB = Technical Service Bulletin. These are diagnosis and repair bulletings sent by the manufacturer when a large number of vehicles exhibit a similar problem.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • dper299dper299 Posts: 19
    Well I just put in a new aluminum 525.00$ :( driveshaft and guess what ? The problem is still there!!! It happens when you have to accelerate to go around or pass someone...Any ideas
  • jkidd2jkidd2 Posts: 218
    This is the first I've heard of this, but this article indicates Ford has expanded its recall regarding fires/speed control to the Ranger.

    http://www.click2houston.com/news/4420584/detail.html

    jkidd
  • I just had all of the dash lights replaced at THE Ford Dealership. $70 Bucks! Its much easier to have them do it. Ive got the repair manual, and I looked it over. Too much work! let the experts do it. Its worth it. They missed 1 bulb, and had to do it again for free. Oh, yea mines a 99 Ranger xlt x-caB
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    I tried that site but it states that the article is no longer posted or available. What did it say. Does it concern the engine fires in the F-150's that are running rampant in FL. Another one was reported yesterday which burned downed the owners house. 27 such fires in FL and numerous other fire damages as well over a simple $13 switch. We have the same switch in our Rangers if you have the cruise control
  • ogreogre Posts: 4
    I found out that it's not the front main seal or bearing going bad. It turned out to just be a bent pulley. Does anyone know anything about overdrive or underdrive pulleys for 4cyl. rangers?
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    This is an article that appeared this morning up at cars.com about the 1997-2002 Rangers and Explorers that may have the same switch that is in question causing the fires. From what I have seen on TV reports is that the switch is in a vulnerable area and can get contaminated with brake fluid (the switch is mounted to the master brake cylinder fluid housing and only if you have cruise control) and because the switch gets power all the time even when the ignition is off it can over heat and if it is gunky with brake fluid and other oils it can ignite and bye bye vehicle, house, shed, garage or whatever. Again this is the suspect but in a recent news article I think on Dateline a specialist in auto fires pin pointed that this switch is the hot spot on the vehicles he has seen. So here we go again from Firestone tires to a 13 dollar switch. What next. By the way I have a 98 XLT extended cab. I used be up on this site sometime ago but got sidetracked and like the prodigal son I have returned and I thing I'll stick around. Here is the site if you are interested...
    http://www.cars.com/go/news/Story.jsp;jsessionid=RBKM2BHL30XI1LAZGQLU2VA?section=news&subj- ect=recent&story=042805storyaUT&referer=&aff=national
  • mikeb2k5mikeb2k5 Posts: 2
    Believe it or not, the problem is the speed sensor on the rear differential. The part is $25.00 and when I went to the dealer to buy it, the parts counter guy said they sell a bunch of them. It's fairly easy to change. jack up the driver side rear and remove the wheel and tire. Put a block or jackstand under the axle to prevent tipping off the jack. Look at the front top of the diff. you will see a connector. Spread the locks and unplug the connector. remove the bolt holding the sensor in place. Wipe any debris off the diff surrounding the sensor then pull the sensor out of the diff. use a screwdriver to carefully pry it out. Put some engine oil on the O-ring of the new sensor. Carefully insert the sensor and rock it gently to seat the Oring. Insert the bolt and tighten. Re-connect the connector. Mount the wheel and tire. Viola!!! everything will work and the truck will run fine. I didn't believe it either until I tried it (My son in law is a Ford tranny mechanic) Hope this helps. It's a fairly easy fix, but if you're not mechanically inclined, have a mechanic install it for you.
  • mikeb2k5mikeb2k5 Posts: 2
    I just joined this forum. I wish I had long ago. Shifting issues with flashing OD light are usually caused by the 2-3 solenoid located next to the catalytic converter on the outside of the transmission. Apparently the cat temperatures prematurely age the rubber causing it to fail. I wonder how many people have been hosed by dishonest tranny shops for expensive unnecessary rebuilds. Post any tranny problems and I'll do my best to get you an answer. My son in law is a Ford tranny mechanic and he has saved me tons of $$$$$$$.
  • rangerguyrangerguy Posts: 5
    i have a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 and it has a rough idle most of the time even worse when i come off the highway i want to clean the throttle body but dont know what kind of cleaner to use because it says on the throttle body not to clean
    any suggestions or mabe even know why it has a rough idle
  • pugs14pugs14 Posts: 2
    My 1999 Ranger develops a wet floorboard on both the drivers side and passenger side after a rain. This occurs even if the car is not driven. I check the seal on rear slider window and found no leak there. What do I check next?
  • garycoxgarycox Posts: 59
    Does Ford have any sort of recall on this problem? I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with 76,000 miles. Last week I had to have the transmission worked on, something about the throttle body replacement and solenoid which was causing it not to shift very well and the OD light finally came on. Actually since it was new I didn't think it was shifting very well but that was my first truck. Over the past year it has become worse until the OD light started flashing.

    The Ford dealer replaced the throttle body and solenoid and it's shifting perfectly, in fact so well I can hardly feel it, much better than it ever did brand new. So it looks like to me it was never quite right? It was a little over $800 to fix it!
  • jim54jim54 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can purchase a seat release handle for
    a ford ranger 2000 model? Not the extended cab, just has two bucket seats.
    It was broke when I bought it.

    Thanks!
  • kcroumlichkcroumlich Posts: 1
    '01 Ranger, 4.0L. I suspect a bad oil pressure sensor. Guage drops to 0 after a cold start, returns to normal after engine warms. Where is the sensor located? I bought a new one but can't figure out where it goes. Thanks.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    Well the part was easily found and replaced, but didn't do any good. The truck is still acting up on nearly every drive. I took it back up to the dealership I bought it from and they are currently looking for the problem. I have been without my truck for almost a month now. I am loosing faith in Ford to repair their own products.
    But thanks for the help Mikeb2k5.
    I'm thinking their is an electrical short somewhere to the point where the wire is sending current, but then loses it and shuts down the truck.

    Dustin
  • rocky8rocky8 Posts: 1
    I have a "99" ford ranger super cab 4x4. I was told by a machanic that there is a possibility
    that my truck could catch fire. He said that there
    is a cruise control sensor that is mounted to the
    master cylinder that it causing the vehicles to
    catch fire. He also said the vehicle does not have to be running, Just sitting in your driveway
    it could catch fire. Does anyone have any info on this ?
    P.S. The machanic also said that the government is
    trying to get ford to recall the vehicles and fix the problem.
  • maryjohmaryjoh Posts: 3
    hi.i have a 95 ranger.2.3 i'm having problems with it not wanting to start after you turn it off.then after an hour or two or sometimes just a few minutes it will start again. did yours do thsi too?i'm trying to figure out what's wrong with mine.please help.

    thanks, mary
  • pattystacepattystace Posts: 2
    Hi All. I hope one of you gurus can give me a little counseling. The techs at the shop working on my Ranger have been uable to successfully bleed the slave cylinder (I was told they have been working on bleeding it for an hour). They have concluded that in order to bleed the slave they must first install a new master cylinder. Any advice? THANKS!
  • hiburghiburg Posts: 2
    Pjama,

    I have a 93 Ford Ranger and have the same problem. It wants to idle at about 2500 RPM as soon as I disengage the clutch. The codes tell me that the temperature sensor is bad. My guess is that the computer is getting a signal from the temperature sensor telling it that the engine is cold and the computer therefor richens the mixture provided by the injectors thus making the engine idle fast. Now and then there are times when the engine idles fine but they are very intermittant. Tomorrow I replace the temperature sensor and will see if the fix is in. If not, I will continue the search.
    hiburg
  • hiburghiburg Posts: 2
    I have a 93 4.0 Ranger and had a [non-permissible content removed] of a time bleeding the unit. The air was in the master cylinder. It (master cyl) must be totally full and this is hard once it has been drained. It is one of the Ford's NOT BETTER IDEAS. It took me 4 hours to bleed this sucker once I replace the clutch master. There was nothing wrong with the slave. By the way I need a new clutch master again after about 10,000 miles - it won't hold pressure on the slave. This time I will go directly to Ford for the part - last time was a NAPA part.
  • rbookrbook Posts: 2
    Kimble,

    I have the exact same truck and it started acting up just like yours yesterday. I am going to change the speed sensor in it today and if it still acts up it will be going to the shop. If you find out what the problem is please post it.

    Thanks,
    rbook
  • cseniorcsenior Posts: 1
    The truck has 100 K and seems to be in good cond. What preventive maintence repairs should be thinking about doing? Ex. Timing belt ? ...Etc.

    Thanks,

    C Senior
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    rocky8 go read my opost #1173 it has a web site to read about the problem. It is more of a problem with the 150's and it seems to be a big problem in FL where a TV station picked up on this and has lit a fire under the govnt's [non-permissible content removed] to get investigating it. It hadb been going on for a year or so. It has not been officially determined if the 97 thru 2002 Rangers are affected by this but if you feel insecure and it you have cruise control you can just go and disconnect the switch. Look on your master brake cylinder and just in front of the brake fluid container is a electrical component. Just unplug it and plug it back when you go driving. Apparently the switch gets 12v even when the engine is off. I measued voltage across the connector with eveything off. and after letting it sit all night and still plugged in I felt that the switch was very warm to the touch. You might want to clean up any road grime or fluids that might be on the switch as well.
  • brew1brew1 Posts: 1
    How do you fix the odometer and speedometer? My 92 Ranger (144,534 miles)has been having a few problems. It has been sitting for about a year. Now that I have it on the road again, the speedometer just broke. I just changed the fuel filter because the truck was not getting any power. The old filter had all kinds of stuff falling out of it. It ran fine this morning, however I can't tell how fast I am going. With my driving record I can't afford any more tickets. :shades:
  • maryjohmaryjoh Posts: 3
    i have a question.i'm not sure your reply was for me or not but my 95 ranger 2.3 has a problem. after i drive it to anywhere and i turn it off and come back out most of the time it won't start.i wait for a few hours or even a few minutes and then it'll start right up.do you have any idea's what it could be?

    thanks maryjoh
  • kepm123kepm123 Posts: 4
    Ok, first my fuel gauge is broken. It always shows Empty. When im driving at night the lights behind the rest of the panel are on, but not behind the gas gauge.
    Any ideas of how to fix this.

    Next, im getting a bunch of work done, like brakes (just the front), new belts, filters, sparkplugs, just regular tune up stuff. How much should that run.

    Then, the mechanic said the tranny has plugs that need to be replaced, (have read about the problem elsewhere) and he also said i should replace my clutch. It a 97 with like 125k. What should a price be on that.

    Thanks
  • Help!!!
    When driving my truck from time to time when stopped at an intersection I have the brakes all the way to the floor and the back tires spin and spin like in a bad cartoon....I have all I can do to hold it ....putting it in neutral has helped....when taking it to the dealer they say they took it for a spin and could not recreate this. It has happened 3 times and I am afraid to drive it .....I would be so happy if anyone out there can help me.
Sign In or Register to comment.