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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I've go the same year, and had the same problem. The solution I found that worked for me is WD40, sprayed into the door latch. I pulled it off of another site (can't remember which one) where a lot of people were reporting this problem, and WD40 seemed to work well for them.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    211,000 miles.

    Check engine light.

    This truck has been your good and faithful servant for years and years and miles and miles.

    And you seem to not want to take it to a mechanic, to have the codes pulled, and have its ills repaired.

    You don't deserve this truck.
  • remowremow Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 extended cab with the infamous thump clunk problem. I would like to get the drive shaft fix instead of the grease.

    Does anyone have the part number for the new yoke or do I need to replace the whole driveshaft? The tsb implies that it is just a yoke, but no part number.

    My cruise control head under the hood has gone bad. Anyone have part number or a place online I can order one?

    Thanks,
    Dan...
  • dru2_9dru2_9 Posts: 1
    well if you meed a quick fix un do the heater core hoses and atach them togeather with a nipple
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Try spraying WD-40 into the door latches, especially the driver's side. This worked for me and have noticed that many people are doing the same.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Where is the PCV located in a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L. :confuse:
  • actreatactreat Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    No idea if anyone actually reads these, but I have the exact same problem desribed by jared4071. the player was working fine, getting warm like it usually does, and then it just stopped playing Cds all together. doesnt' matter if they're new or self-burned. no self-made labels on 'em, either. it just displays "CD Error 0001", which in the owner's manual is listed as something non-helpful like "unable to read disk". the disks are fine - any ideas? thanks much
  • ebollingerebollinger Posts: 1
    my fathers cam belt snapped on his 97 ranger 2.3, and we put a new one in, we followed the Haynes book step by step, and after completion, the truck would not start. we plugged a diagnostic tool into the computer, and it said there weren't any problems. does anybody know what could be wrong???
  • kx_dadkx_dad Posts: 2
    I was having the same problem with my Ranger.Try spraying silicone in the door latch. It worked for me instantly.
  • greenchiefgreenchief Posts: 1
    I enjoy reading the posts to this board, they are informal and enjoyable. I have a 2001 Ranger 3.0 XLT. There are two things I want to do to my truck.

    First, the side turn signals are burned out, and I can't figure out how to access the lights to change them. I've tried from above, tried prying on the light itself, nothing. There are no screws holding this light on, nothing. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

    Second, I'm thinking of swapping out the engine for a larger one. I realize the Ranger comes with either a 3.0 or 4.0. Does anyone know where you can purchase a rebuild engine for this year? Can you go larger than 4.0 in the Ranger?

    Thanks. :D
  • I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 which I bought with 31k miles. At my insistance the dealer "sent the truck out" for a new clutch assembly. Now 20k miles later with a stiff shifting problem they sent it back out to the same trans. shop and say it needs a new clutch assembly! my question is ,should'nt the clutch last longer than 20kmiles? is there something about the ford clutch or is this a bad dealer problem?
  • ihatefordsihatefords Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 ranger 2.3l. It was over heating so I took off the thermostat, but to get to it I had to take off a part from the air intake I've put everything back just like it was but it wont start. It cranks but its like its not getting gas or air. I replaced the spark plug, but still nothing. please help. thanks :lemon:
  • Can the slave :confuse: image be replaced without replacing the clutch assembly? My 200 Ranger is hard to shift into 1st and reverse from a stop. all other gears are fine, New clutch assembly only 20k mi ago(suposedly)
  • jaws2jaws2 Posts: 1
    I have had your very same issue...it typically occurs on warmer days. It is likely your driver side door switch. Get your door switch replaced...do not have them put it on the diagnostics machine...that will cost you atleast a hundred fifty dollars. What has happed is your seat belt gets trapped in your door when you close it and it has damaged your door switch. I lived with my door ajar dinger going off for about 2 years. (broke college student at the time) I finally spent the money and it was worth every penny. Good Luck
  • I have a 1993 V6 4.0L Ranger that is overheating. It always stays in the NORMAL range (doesn't redline) but the gauge cycles and goes as high as "L". I've had the truck 6 years and this is not typical. I replaced the following parts: radiator and cap (leak found when pressurized), thermostat (3x), fan clutch, water pump (had replaced, leak found after replacement, defected out and replaced again), coolant/radiator hoses, and serpentine belt. There is no coolant in the oil and I tested for a bad head gasket but it came out negative. Used a pyrometer to check for blockages and found that the thermostat allowed coolant to go to 215 degrees before opening (hence the 3rd thermostat replacement, this time with a motorcraft part), thermostat replacement did not effect problem. All other areas during the pyrometer check were normal temp. I believe it is mechanical since I can smell coolant after it gets warm, I occassionally need to add coolant to the overflow tank, and the pyrometer check indicated no blockages. Any suggestions out there or has anyone run into this before?
  • try checking the heater control valve. I have a 2002 ranger 2.3L and mine just broke. it should be on the left side where the hoses go into the dash. its not hard to replace and about $15.
  • rangerange Posts: 2
    Problem was the DPFE sensor Differential Pressure Feedback sensor. Replaced that for 55 bucks and the truck is running good again no check engine light. If anyone has a similar problem I would advise changing this part.

    Truckgrrl, my ranger was doing the same thing recently. Replacing the clutchfan and flushing the radiator seems to have fixed the problem. It stills seems to be gradually running a little hotter than normal about half way.
  • crankycranky Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where the fuel pump is on my 1990 ford ranger and how to take it off??????? I have looked every where :blush:
  • jhall1jhall1 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Ranger that has automatic transmission. I have been having the same problem occurring the last several years. It use to only happen when the temperature got into the 80's or I would turn off the car and run back into the house quickly and try to restart the car. Now it has happened two days in a row. The Ford dealership cannot find anything wrong with truck with a computer analysis. The spark plugs and cables have been recently replaced. The battery is strong and will crank, but the engine will not turn over. If I wait 20 minutes to an hour for the car to cool, it will start. The starter is still good. My mechanic is baffled. Does anyone know if there is some kind of relay that is heat sensitive or some other part that needs replaced or assessed? The fuel pump is working, but maybe it needs to be replaced. My mechanic does not know whether that will solve my problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • I have a 2004 ranger 4.0 5sp. auto that has intermittent problems!!
    When it runs good it runs great!!! :)
    When it runs BAD it looses power, takes off in 2nd gear and rapidly shifts to 5th gear by 25mph, air blows cool only, Will not down shift until full throttle at 20mph, Brakes during panic stop become rock hard and won't stop!( 1/2 normal braking), Sometimes shuts off (rare), when cruising at 60mph it surges like someone hit you in the back.
    Been to the dealer 3 times and all is fine, called another dealer (No help),
    called ford ( never heard of this)?? :lemon: 11500miles in 18 months and almost 5 wrecks. Any Ideas. I think its the computer retarding the timing causing a loss of vacuume in turn causing loss of power in brakes and ac ducts not to close.
    P.S. No codes or warning lights. But like i said when it runs good it runs great and everything works properly, it just wont do it at the dealer.
    Also 12.3 MPG sucks :sick:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I have a 94 Ranger with 4L automatic. It does NOT have a vacumn cut-off valve in the heater lines.

    But, a few years ago, in an effort to maximize my summer A/C output (thinking I would close it in the summer and open it in the fall), I cut one of the heater lines and installed a manual cutoff valve.

    With this valve closed, stopping the flow through the heater core, the temp gauge started doing very strange things. Previously, the gauge would start out 'cold' and slowly move up to about 1/4 or 1/3 gauge (about the O in NORMAL). With the new valve in place, and closed, when started cold the gauge would move up to about 3/4 gauge, then drop to the almost far left. It would cycle like this a few times. If it was cooler outside temp, and driven slowly, it would continue to cycle. If you took it and ran at highway speed (55+), the gauge would go to the normal 1/4 gauage and stabilize.

    This freaked me out so much I opened up the valve. The temp gauge then stopped this nonsense and returned to operation as before.

    Based on this, if someone has a cycling temp gauge on a Ranger 4L, I would first guess you might have a plugged heater core, which would be the same as when I placed the valve in the line and closed it.

    Ford's design of the cooling system for this motor appears to require circulation throught the heater core to maintain a stable warm-up. Exactly what is happening, I don't know.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Inside the fuel tank. You have to drop the tank (or remove the bed) to get to the top of the tank.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    One other thing.

    4L of this age also have the lower intake bolts loosen up. This usually causes pinging (air coming around the gasket and leaning out the fuel mixture) and/or oil usage. I've never heard of water leaking into pistons, but it might happen.

    Tighten the lower intake bolts up. This is almost a 'normal' maintenance item on this motor of this age (mid 90's). It takes like a 8mm or 9mm 1/4 socket and extension and flex drive. You can get to all of them. There is a certain 'sequence' but I just moved around and side to side on mine.

    Mine went from using almost no oil in 4,000 miles to suddenly setting the 'check oil' light, and being 1 1/2 quarts low. Tightening these bolts stopped the oil usage.
  • mannixmannix Posts: 1
    Yeah, you definitely have a heater core problem. The film on the windshield is a prime indicator. Also, if you notice s 'sweet' scent inside the vehicle, you have antifreeze inside the vehicle.
  • Greenchief,
    Open the hood, directly over the headlights are two 7/32" screws. Remove and then lift the small plastic piece. You will see two levers, one on each side of the headlight. The outboard faces fwd, inboard faces rearward. Pull up on these as far as they will go. They will be stiff, they WILL NOT come all the way out. This will release the headlight unit. Wiggle it free (as far as the wires on the headlight and parking/turn signals will permit. This will provide access to the side marker light bulb. BE CAREFUL putting it back, you can break the aiming screws.
    While you are there. You will see a brown and a black wire going to the side marker bulb. If you cut the black wire, and splice the bulb end of the wire to a tap off the green with white stripe wire going to the parking/turn signal bulb, it will cause the side marker light to blink with the trun signal when the lights are OFF, and blink opposite the turn signal when the lights are ON.

    NO GUARANTEES TO THIS PROCEEDURE. PROCEEDE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

    01goldranger
  • twoosleytwoosley Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with a 3.0, and I am having a similar problem. I come to a stop and the speedo goes to 0. When I take off it clunks and the transmission is not shifting correctly. Eventually the speedo starts working again. The OD light flashes from OD on to OD off. I have no idea what is wrong with it. Have you found out what sensor it is?
  • I have a '95 Ranger 3.0L/6-cyl shortbed, manual tranny, w/155K miles. Several little things are starting to go on it after 10 yrs of ownership just as I'm getting ready to sell, and I need some help on fixing these.

    First, the shifter knob just popped off one day, and I can't find anywhere how to reattach it. Any ideas?

    Second, when I pulled up on the tailgate latch about a week ago there was a "pop". I figure the cable snapped inside the tailgate, but how can I get it down to attempt repairs? Also, I can't find anywhere how to go about repairing this minor problem.

    Third, I hear squealing from the front tires and there's black soot on the rims. I just lubbed all the points, and it's continuing so I figure the bearings need repacking and I'll need to inspect the spindle. Does this sound like a good diagnosis? What can I use as cleaner for the bearings? How will I know if they need to be replaced versus repacking? What should I look for on the spindle to decide whether or not to replace it, too? Any help would be much appreciated.
  • mxz440mxz440 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 ford ranger xlt 3.0L v6 4x4 and it has the push button 4x4 and low range and the 4x4 works but my low wont so is there a fuse or what
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    If it is a threaded the threads are worn or if its a press on it may be worn enough not to stay on. Try to epoxy the knob onto the shaft. Use a good two part epoxy you can buy at Pep boys or some hardware store. On the tail gate you should be able to remove the panel on the inside of the gate to give you access to the inside for the latch and the cable. And if you carefully on either end at the swivel hinge you will not that one end does not nave a complete end cap but a partial to allow you to swing the gate down and then lift up to un hook it and then swing it away and off. Look for it ral carefull and you eill see it.
    As for the black soot on the rims that could just be brake dust from the disc brakes and not the front bearings. The squealing is probably because you have so much dust built up that its causing the pads to rub on the rotor and squeal. Try blow out the dust and then use some wheel cleaner or Simple Green Cleaner to clean the rims. Hope these suggetions will work for you
  • My Ranger has 158K on it. I see no visible transmission fluid leaks and had it to a transmission shop which saw no leaks either. Where could my fluid be going? Have to add every month or sooner.
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