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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • tonyetonye Posts: 9
    Interesting, I've a 99 Ranger X cab and have the same problem with the dome light and door ajar alert most often when it's over 85. How much did the door switch cost and how difficult to replace?

    Thanks,
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Check the trans lines to the radiator. That was the source of my mystery leak on my 96 Ram.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    And, check the vacuum modulator valve. This is a valve, on the outside of the transmission, with a vacuum hose (metal) going to it. It aids in the downshifts. It's tough to see. It is on the right side of the transmission, above the exhaust/cat converter. One bolt holds it on.

    If the diaphram in this valve ruptures, transmission fluid is pulled through the vacuum line and 'burned' in the motor. If a lot is being burned, you should see white smoke out the exhaust.

    I would think an inspection by a 'transmission shop' should find this. Unless they wanted to do a total rebuild, when all you need is a valve......
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    It turns over fine but won't start. Crazy thing is you can wait 5 minutes and then it will fire up just fine. Runs good once it is started. There's no rhyme or reason to it. Any suggestions?
  • If tranny fluid is in fact being sucked in and burned, would this possibly cause the pinging I am getting? Don't get it all the time. Sometimes when I am at a steady speed, slow down due to traffic and then speed back up, I get the ping and sometimes I get it at a steady speed but it is very light.
  • jerrayjerray Posts: 1
    My 97 Ranger had just over 273,000 miles on the 2.3 and lost its first timing belt. I found a 96 mazda engine 2.3 with 30,000 for $250 at a salvage yard. I swapped the engine and now the speedometer doesn't work. The wiring harness was diff on the mazda for the transmission, I guessing the mazda was an automatic, no piliot bearing. The mazda had a larger plug and the ford has a small plug to transmission. The mazda had the pig tail for the automatic transmission so I made a short jumper by matching the wire colors and converting to the smaller plug. The new engine does run but rough. I have not ran the codes on the computer yet and the check engine light is on, any comments on this engine swap and plugs. thanks
  • I have a 92 Ford Ranger with a 3.0 V-6 and Automatic Trans. When you turn the key on the fuel pump runs and a second or two later if it cuts back off the truck will start and rum. However, now when you turn the key on the pump runs and a second or two, later you hear a relay click under the hood but the pump keeps running. Now the truck will turn over but will not start. I have checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail and it is within specks 40 PSI. I also checked to see if I had fire to the plugs with a timing light and there is fire to the plugs. Has any one else had this problem?? I am baffeled. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. :cry:
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Hey I've got a problem with starting too!! Once it starts there is a howling sound underneath the hood!! I don't know when it's not going to start!! Just no explanation that I can see?? See above post. :confuse:
  • can any one help I have a 1995 ford ranger that i have had repeated problems with the relays for the wipers and horn I replace the relays the turn signal switch but I keep get just the high speed on my wipers and no horn the horn & wipers work wright for a while and then I loose the horn and the slower speeds on the wipers
  • warpupwarpup Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with my 94 ranger 5 speed.

    It's not the battery and the connections and cables are all good. I ran through the diagnostic path given in the Harris book, and it comes up 'replace starter relay' (the one mounted to the fender near the fusebox).

    So I did, and it started fine for about 5 starts. Then the same symptoms.

    So I figure I got a bad relay, poor quality or whatever and replaced it again.

    It started twice with the new relay, then nothing. (Clicks the solinoid, but doesn't turn the starter.)

    Ideas? Help!
  • grnrangergrnranger Posts: 3
    HAVE SAME THING!
    Have also tried all the same ignition changes you list as well as a change of a component called the ignition control module.
    Ranger always starts when cold. mechanics have kno clu.
    Recently I stubbornly sat with the car and watched the Temp Gauge go down, trying every several minutes to get a start. Ranger did not start until the needle was at bottom of gauge's range. Next time this happened I again stayed with vehicle performing the same test by trying to start every few minutes and again, once fully cool it started with no problem.
    Because I can get a start as soon as the Temp Gauge is down I don't think it can be the fuel pump. We would get no start situations at all temperatures if that was the case.
    I think the problem is as you suggest, a heat sensitive relay. I just dug into a borrowed manual and there is a sensor called the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ETC) mounted up by the engine's thermostat. This unit is connected to car's ignition control module. I'm going after this puppy as my next candidate as the trouble maker. It could be corrosion or gunk on the sensor's interior surface. heat/wear damage to the connecting wires, or just a worn out internal mechanism. (My Ranger does have 164,000 on it).
    My guess is that this unit is occasionally "sticking" in the cold position and sending information to the ignition control module that the engine is cold. Usually a cold engine gets a richer mixture of fuel until it warms up. It may be that the fuel mixture is "flooding" the cylinders when injected and/or the timing is off for the heat range and volitility of the mixture....I only conjecture this as one of the first times i ran into this problem, while waiting to be rescued, I took off the ducting from the filter box to the front of the throttle body and held it open w/ a screw driver while I attempted a start. Engine roared into life at Very high revs. Since I felt I could not get to the Screwdriver before I incurred some damage, I shut down. Of course it would not restart until cold.
    There may be some other heat sensitive unit that could also be giving feedback to the computer that, in combination with the info this sensor is giving, results in a no start situation; especially as my occurrances have also been primarily in warmer weather.
    will advise my results of changing this part.
  • i have a '95 ranger and had the same problem with the dome light and the chime and the solution i got from a website called the ranger station was to spray wd-40 in the door latch and the keyhole to clean the contacts on the single wire electrical system, it worked right away and i had to do it again about 2 years later. i used quite a bit of spray using the little plastic straw to get at the innards of the latch.
  • tonyetonye Posts: 9
    thanks..i'll give it a try as the only other solution I've seen is to replace the door switch all together which is a bit more work then this one.
  • I recently noticed that the engine on my 2003 Ranger 3.0 V6 will not rev past 3000 while in park or neutral. The truck runs fine otherwise. The engine will run above 5000 when flooring it through the gears. I noticed this after "washing" under the hood, but the problem may have been there and I just didn't notice. The truck has 20000 miles. At 3000 the engine seems to lope and miss. Help!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, since you haven't told what engine you have, here are two guess for two different engines.

    3L - Most of them ping all the time, even when relatively new, for all their life. Ford doesn't seem to want to re-engineer them to stop this. Only thing that will help is to pull some 'plug' (SPURT ? plug), which basically will retard the timeing and reduce power, which a 3L doesn't have much to spare. Or, use higher octane gasoline. There are some TSB which say to replace the coil packs. Sometimes this helps, other people that have done it say it doesn't help.

    4L - See my message about 10 or so messages back. If a 4L pings, tighten the lower intake manifold bolts.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Yep, there are two engine temp sensors. One drives the temp gauge.

    The other gives info to the computer. The one that feeds the computer will have 2 wires, one of them will be yellow with a black strip and will be twisted together (I think).

    If the 'computer info' one fails, the problem usually is that it is difficult to start (and if/when it starts, it will run rough) when COLD. Basically, the computer thinks it is trying to start a HOT engine, and it will not increase the fuel delivery time needed for a cold start. After the engine warms up, it runs and restarts ok.

    Since you peoples problems were HOT start problems, I didn't want to throw this sensor problem into the discussion, since all the problems I've heard of have been cold start problem. But maybe the sensor will fail in the other direction, and this then causes HOT start problems...

    Might be worth replacing this sensor. I'm assuming you aren't getting any 'check engine light' being set. If so, PULL THE CODES first before throwing parts at the problem.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    And, burning tranny fluid in a motor might cause lots of things, including pings. The vacuum leak from a busted modulator valve might lean it out enough to ping. Throw in some Dexron, and who know what you get.
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Well that's four starts in a row (knock on wood)!! I've been reving up the engine before I turn it off lately! Hoping that will keep the string going!! Superstitious I guess! Don't know how long it will last!! Just like a riverboat gambler! :confuse:
  • Sorry - my mistake. I have the 3.0 6cy in my Ranger. I currently use the 89 octane gas which I have done since I bought the truck. Have heard ping before but not like this, Just started within the past 6 months. Can it be the tranny fluid being sucked in? Just for info - called the Ford dealer yesterday to see how much the valve part was ($40) and the parts guy stated he didn't think this would be the cause as he has never heard of one of those valves going bad. One other parts guy told me there was no vacuum assist on the tranny.
  • you said you found the problem???

    what was it? you mentioned timing belt, but what specifically regarding the timing belt?
  • I have an 89 Ranger 2.3 distributor-less. No spark on either side, its driving me crazy...
  • I have a 98 ranger with the 4.0. Lately it's been giving me a problem first thing in the morning, it acts as if it's either starving for gas or spark when i put it in drive or reverse. When in neutral it idles perfectly. Also, i can be driving down the road and when i press the gas just enough to pass a car or speed up it will jerk as if it is missing or not getting enough gas. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestion as to wear to start. I've changed the fuel filter recently. I've done a completely tuneup (plugs, wires, and coil pack). I've been told it can be numerous things like the 02 sensor, temp sensor, and a few other sensors but nothing seems to add up. If any one can give me a little direction, that would be greatful.
  • I have a 92 ranger with a 3.0. Yesterday it wouldn't start at all. Today it finally started but seems to be running on open loop in the ECM. Idles fairly well but very little response and power. When I went to check the codes it will not do any thing. One other thing, the fuel pump runs continuously but the fuel pressure is correct. The fuel pressure regulator is working properly also. It is as if the ECM is running on the Prom Chip only and none of the other devices make any difference. While running I have disconnected the Mass Flow air valve, Throttle position sensor, and Idle air Control valve. None of them make any difference whether plugged up or not. Can you take the ECM somewhere and have it checked to see if it is operational, I hate to spend $150 to $200 on a replacement only to find out it was not :confuse: the problem.
  • ducatiducati Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem as you with a little more drama. I had some friends help me change out the spark plugs/wires. In order to get to the plugs located on the right side of the engine we had to remove the manifold. We put everything back together and everything worked - for two days. Then the idling started going haywire. The engine would rev way too high when the clutch was pushed in and then at a stop the engine would sputter then die. I've gone to a mechanic twice and the following work has been done: first visit they replaced two gaskets..the egr valve gasket and the upper intake gasket. Well the truck no longer stalled out when stopped but the problem of the engine revving up when in neutral remained. Second visit the mechanic replaced the idle speed motor. Again it ran good..for a while then the high revving returned. :cry: Pjama - did re programming the computer at the dealership solve the revving up problem? If you can respond I'd appreciate it.
  • gothdollgothdoll Posts: 2
    Can you describe the shifting problem you were experiencing? I may have the issue. When you say Solenoid..are you meaning the Solenoid that makes a click-click when there's not enough current getting to it?
  • gothdollgothdoll Posts: 2
    I'm a woman taking my beloved '97 Ford Ranger (automatic) to the mechanic. Please advise me in what to ask for and a few things I should know so I don't get screwed.
    My transmission is slipping. What should I check first before resorting to the mechanic? Tranny fluid levels are normal BUT my fluid has not been replace for about 5 years.

    Elaine
  • your truck has an over rev limiting switch built into the computer to keep people from doing what you are trying to do. Why would you want to do this to the engine anyway. there is no reason to over rev an engine unless you are racing but not with this truck. Hope this helps.
    cyberjoe58
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Occasionally my ranger doesn't start!!! There is no rhyme or reason to it. You can mess with it for a while and it just doesn't do anything!! Then all of the sudden it will just fire up! When it does fire up it makes this howling or humming sound. A guy told me that it was the fuel pump making this sound. Anybody know what could be the problem??? :confuse:
  • I have a 1987 with the same engine and problem .I have used some additives to the gas have cleaned the trottle plate with carb cleaner but after a while the promlem comes back .Did you ever find the answer

    Mark
  • chris240chris240 Posts: 1
    I am working on an 89 ranger 2.3L and i have already changed the rear main, and OP gasket and i am about to do the head gasket but i wanted to know if anyone knew if there is any problems i am going to run into in the process of doing the timing ?
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