Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1424345474898

Comments

  • I was wondering if you got an answer to your query, I have a 1994 Ranger that is doing the same thing and I am trying to see what it is

    You can e-mail me if you were able to find out what it was.

    Thanks

    Ron
  • rickyt1rickyt1 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Ford Ranger and over the last two months if it's started more than 3 times in a 2-4 hour period it starts humming. The sound is coming from the area of the air filter or the air hose cause as soon as I take the cover off, it gets louder.
    Want to see what I can do before I take it to the shop.
  • Does it sound like a train coming??
    If so, it's coming from the mass air flow. I've got the same problem and a mechanic told me to change the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the idle air control. I haven't tried to yet. The parts will cost you about 80 bucks total. I work at a parts store so it's all good. Just to busy working on everyone elses stuff instead of my own. Hope that helps ya out a little.
  • meurkmanmeurkman Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ranger 4x4 with the 4.0L V6. Recently it has been shifting late into 2nd gear and the O/D light started flashing. It sounds like it could be this problem with the 2-3 solenoid described here. How difficult (if possible) is it to replace this part yourself? If so, how much does it usually cost? Thanks for your help, this is a great forum.
  • caddis295caddis295 Posts: 1
    Looking a a 1999 Ford Ranger Ext Cab, 4x4 with the 3.0 liter FFV. It has a high mileage count @128,000, but I understand it was a corporate vehicle. I am offered to purchase it for $4800. Is it worth it?

    Caddis295 :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's probably the Idle Air Control. It get carboned up inside and howls.

    It can probably be taken off and cleaned with carb cleaner.

    It has electric solnoid on one end, and medal valve on the other. DO NO GET carb cleaner into the electrical end!!!!! It will eat up the windings!

    Just clean the valve part. Be carful removing and do not tear up the gasket under it.
  • dsnowdendsnowden Posts: 1
    My son has a 94 Ranger with a 3 liter V6 that has developed an occasional trans leak. It appears to happen when slowing to a stop but only on occassion. He first saw smoke in the mirror. We noticed that trans fluid had come out of the bell housing and had been blown back on the exhaust, creating the smoke we assume. But when we took it out for a test drive it would not leak any more. Now he has observed that when he brings the truck to a stop, the last 6 feet or so, fluid drips out on the ground. Again this is only occasionally. Is there something that causes the trans to build to much pressure and forces fluid out one of the seals?
  • dfreshourdfreshour Posts: 2
    The fuel pump is located in the gas tank of your truck. You will either have to take the bed off of your truck, or you will have to drop the tank to get to it. If you drop the gas tank, get it as close to empty as possible.
    Good Luck and hope this helps.
    David
  • dfreshourdfreshour Posts: 2
    hey,
    you need to check and see if there is a crank sensor on your truck. This was happening to me quite frequently with the same result from the mechanics. Someone suggested this to us, we replaced it, and its fixed.
    David
  • 2ford98s2ford98s Posts: 1
    I'm hoping someone can help me with this one. I have a '98 XLT, 4.0L V6 4WD Auto. While driving, my 4W High & 4W Low will flash slowly together about 5 times, stop for a few seconds, then repeat. This cycle will continue for a few minutes, than stop for a while, then do it again. When it's occurring, there is no discernible performance difference. It doesn't happen every day, but seems to come and go periodically. There was no reference to this in the owner's manual, and I am unsure if this is indicative of a serious problem that a mechanic should look at, or if it's just an idiosyncrasy of the idiot lights. Any thoughts on this?

    Different subject altogether, but thought I would mention it. In addition to my '98 Ranger, we also own a '98 Explorer. On both vehicles, the heater blend door broke, which means you either have full heat or max air conditioning, with nothing in between. The blend door is $45, the labor to replace it is about $800, as the dash has to come out. This is my only real complaint about either vehicle.
  • I have a 98 ranger xlt 4wd with the 4.0 also. I have to have that kind of problem but it sounds like the computer is picking up something from the transfer case. Either a wire has come lose and is wiggling out of connection. I'd probably take it to a mechanic, hopefully one you know and trust. I'll ask a few mechanics at work when they come in and see if i can narrow it down. I know that aint much help but hope it helps ya a little bit.
  • marc41042marc41042 Posts: 2
    I can't get my fuel filter off? Is there something special i need to do or is it jamed ot something?
  • I have a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab. The engine is a 4.0 Liter V-6... The tires are 1 year old B.F. Goodrich All Terrain T/A LT265/75R16 size. There is roughly a total of 350 extra pounds of weight between my brush guard and tool box. I weigh roughly 205lbs... I get only 9 miles per gallon in this truck, only 6 months ago I was getting almost 23 miles per gallon. I had a major tune up done in late March, and seemed to help the problem for about a week. (Sparkplugs, wires, all filters and fluids changed) etc. etc...
    I went to Braves game and the truck stalled out at an intersection, and just became lethargic with no power whatsoever... It's an automatic, and I didn't think it was possible for one to stall out... It also stays constant at 4000 RPM when going above 50 MPH...
    I was told by a friend to have the catalytic converter checked that it could need replaced... There ARE 84,000 miles on this baby!!! I took it to the dealership and they looked it over, ran diagnostic tests and the best answer they could create for me was "Oversized tires are killing my gas mileage" "I need to speak with someone in parts to order new tires, and a matching spare" I can't even change my own oil, but I'm pretty sure that entire story was a line of figmented imagination!!! needless to say, I am not very entertained... WHAT COULD ACTUALLY BE GOING ON WITH THIS TRUCK...
  • leebhamalleebhamal Posts: 2
    I noticed my lights periodically flashing last week under routine driving conditions on my 99 4 x 4 ranger and come to find my hubs won't lock in. A mechanic at Ford narrowed the problem to a transfer case circuitry code. He's yet to pinpoint the exact problem (because I didn't leave my truck) but suspects the shift on fly switch or the electronic shift motor. Has anyone else had this problems with their hubs not locking in and have a ballpark figure for repair price? Also, all vacuum lines seem in working order and 4WD had not been engaged in over two weeks.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Hi guys and gals. Question: 2005 Ford Ranger-2.3L engine-Timing belt or timing chain?
  • mtnlakermtnlaker Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 Ford Ranger with a 2.9 V6. Recently when I pulled on the lever under the steering wheel to release the hood nothing happened. How do I open the hood. I assume that the cable is broken. Please let me know.

    Thank you.
  • rereavesrereaves Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Ranger, 4 cylinder, no a/c. The idler pulley assembly has pulled away from the engine. It appears that the bracket and spring assembly has separated exposing the spring.

    How difficult is it to obtain a new idler pulley assembly and install? What steps are required to replace? ls it necessary to remove the radiator?
  • ut1seabeeut1seabee Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 with the same problems, Let me know what you come up with. It takes all it has to do 65mph!!
  • I had recently placed a remote started on my 2002 Ranger and I had this problem. The reason I was having the issue was because the key I was using was not programmed correctly. In your owners manual you should see a section on where to program you keys. At least mine says that I do not know if 2001 and would have that. I would think they would. Try doing that. Sounds like the key you are using is not programmed correctly.
  • You may have a problem with the float mechanism in your tank. Normally when cards get older the float soaks up gas and the will sink below the level of the gas. Showing a misread. However, yours is not that old. I have a 2002 and I was really disappointed in the fuel mileage too. But I realized that they only have a 15 gallon tank, and they also have a two gallon reserve. So when you have two gallons left my check gage light comes on. So really, they have punny tanks for a truck. So you maybe just like me and not realizing that your tank is pretty small.
  • pickles4pickles4 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Ford Ranger; 4 cyl; manual trans. It seems as though it is not getting enough gas. It is idling very very low. Whenever I start my truck it idles very low and sometimes requires pumping the gas to get it started. It idles very low, when I try to rev up the engine it briefly acts as if it is going to die and then it revs up but then right back down to idling very low. It does not die though. Could this be the throttle sensor? Do you have any ideas??
  • I have a 2002 Ranger Supercab. I have noticed an annoying air leak right by you ear where the back door and the front door meet. Its really bad in a cross wind going down the interstate I thought I could stop it from doing this but nothing works. Is this something that these trucks just have a air leak that will drive me nuts ? :mad: Anyone else have this.
  • My 2002 Ranger seems to run about 3000 rpm when going down the interstate in overdrive. I thought it would not make the motor work so hard in overdrive. Does anyone notice this, or is there something possible wrong with mine ?
  • leebhamalleebhamal Posts: 2
    I had the same problem I believe. It starts and idles low, them it may rev up to a high rpm for a monemt, and in my case after driving for a while it the idle would return to normal. I replaced the sensor (50 bucks) very simple only 2 screws and all was fine. For a temporary fix though you can tap the sensor right at start up with a screwdriver to unstick the small plunger in the sensor and that usually returns the idle to normal.
  • grnrangergrnranger Posts: 3
    threw part at problem.
    Pulling codes at service center cost more than part at NAPA.- $20.00!
    no problems w/ hot starting and weather has been in 90's all week. Part is readily available in aftermarket so that suggests it's failure is common.
    hot start or cold start replace ETC sensor.
  • groetengroeten Posts: 1
    For the past two years, during the summer, after driving for a few miles and the engine getting hot, I can stop somewhere for a quick errand and after a couple of minutes jump back in the truck it won't start. I have to wait until it cools for about 15 minutes. It happened only a couple of times last year and it has already happened several times this summer. This morning, before I drove to work, cold engine, temperature outside about 80, wouldn't start for a couple of minutes. This is the first time it has happened without the engine being hot.

    The engine turns over fine, just won't start. No check engine light. Doesn't matter if the radio or AC is on or off, transmission in Park or Neutral. Seems like there is no gas or spark. Until this morning, I was thinking fuel pump problem. After reading posts at several sites I can't narrow it down. OK, to add a little spice to the problem, when trying to start the engine, both door locks will intermittently open and closed. Like an electrical problem, chip or relay resetting itself or possession by an evil spirit!!! Freaky man!

    Solution???

    Gregg
    1995 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab, 4 X 4, 4.0L, 1 year old battery, wires and plugs about 9 months old
  • happymikehappymike Posts: 1
    THIS JUST HAPPEND TO MY TRUCK, WITH THE LIGHTS BLINKING ON AND OFF. IF ANYONE CAN HELP MY EMAIL IS JJYEATON@YAHOO.COM
  • I have a 2002 Ranger Edge 3.0 L V6, and I am looking to replace my fuel filter. I have read that it requires a special tool to remove from the harness. If anyone knows where I can pick this tool up or what its called, or basically any information on how I can do this I would greatly appreciate it. It seems like a relatively simple thing to do, and would prefer not to have to take it in to simply change a filter. Thanks.
  • k8stangk8stang Posts: 1
    My husband and I recently got a 1999 Ranger XLT Sport 4x4 4.0L. It had been rolled in a snow bank and some how got water in the power boster. So we replaced that and the 4x4 motor. Now it surges at about 2500rpm like its the fuel pump. did a pressure test and its good. Also has check engine light on and we ran the codes and they came up as tranny senser codes. The manual tranny dosent have the sensor its calls for. My husband who is a mechanic has been all through it and is now thinking it could be the engine computer. Any input would be great. Thanks
  • marc41042marc41042 Posts: 2
    I had just changed my fuel filter on my 1999 Ranger. The tool you need is a fuel line disconnect tool. You can buy in at any auto store. I bought mine at anto zone for like five dollars.
Sign In or Register to comment.