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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • jesse5jesse5 Posts: 1
    I'm having trouble locating the interior lamp relay, I suppose this relay is not working because when door is open light doesn’t turn on inside cab or outside in cargo area (high mounted lights). Any help or ideas would help. Thanks guys.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I have a 97 2.3 manual and it is doing something weird. My truck idles rough. It loses power and it does not ever die out. I had to have the catalytic converter changed because it was running rough. I have been looking at my Haynes manual and thinking it may be the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). I have had it to the dealer and they say there are no codes. Everything is OK. But everything is not OK. My truck is running terribly. Did the throttle position sensor help? :cry:
  • berri2berri2 Posts: 2
    Okay... When was the first year that the Ranger got the ( 100,000 ) odometer ?
    I been shopping for a good used Ford Ranger, mostly in the paper & the craigslist. Anyways... I have seen alot of ads claiming low mileage for example '93 super cab w/48,000mi. Maybe....really 148,000 so just to save me some ground work.
    Thank You, Sheri
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Sheri Berri

    ??????

    Hey, are you one of my ex-wives?????

    That was my nickname for her.

    I don't know when they started, but my 1994 has 082357 miles on it.
  • Can you go into detail as to how to replace the fuel filter on a 99 Ranger? Like, where the filter is located, and how long it took to replace.
    I also would like to do it myself, if it is not going to be too hard.
    Thanks!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    First, you need a set of 'tools'. These are in various sizes, a tube with an open side. You put the open side over the fuel line, then slide the end into the connection. There is a spring inside that the tool will push aside, expand actually, and the connection can then be pulled apart. Any auto parts house know what these are and should be able to sell you a set for your vehicle (and more unneeded ones) for $5 or so.

    The fuel filter is usually on/beside/etc the frame, just about under the driver's door, or slightly forward. There may be bracket or cover to be removed.

    Gasoline will come out when the filter is removed. Do not do this inside a garage. Sometimes, due to a siphon effect, gas will continue to come out even after the pressure if relieved from the line. I sometimes take a pencil and push this lightly into the fuel line to stop the fuel. Or buy dowel rod the size of a pencil, cut some lengths, and sharpen these in a pencil sharpener.
  • nailbunnynailbunny Posts: 2
    Anyone know how to take the dash apart to change the bulbs?
  • brit2brit2 Posts: 2
    Hi all, I drive a 96 Ranger 2.3 Auto over here in England.It's done 115k miles and is a smoothe little truck-except i am only getting 18mpg (imperial gallon) driving it very easy.When you consider that gas over here is roughly 4 times the price you guys pay in the States,it makes it an expensive to ride!.I have had 2 mechanics diagnose the truck but have not found the problem.I have recently fitted new plugs,leads,oil and air filters but to no avail.The second mechanic discovered that the gas tank was not pressurising and recommended a new gas cap.On fitting the new cap the problem remained the same (no tank pressure).Is this important?Does anybody have any idea on what the problem/s might be?I would be very greatfull for any help with this problem.Thanks-Brit2
  • fmc12fmc12 Posts: 7
    you may want a second opinion,but i beleive it is behind the radio.not as bad as it sounds,the radio is easy to remove.
  • fmc12fmc12 Posts: 7
    does anyone have experience with e85 fuel?it is now available close to my home .it is 41 cents cheaper than unleaded.i tried a tank the other day,the truck ran fine but i believe the mileage per gallon is lower.i couldn't compare fuel mileage since i towed 2 waverunners
    my ranger is 2000 3.0 v6.the flex fuel engine was standard that year.is it still available?.
  • rgreene2rgreene2 Posts: 1
    My 2001 ranger will start to cutting out when im running 75 - 80 . Its like maybe its not getting gas any idles? :
  • some where in an auto mag. I read that if you change the thermostat to a hotter one it helps that problem they were saying in the article that there was a couple of different thermostats for that year and they found out if you ran a colder tempature termostat in the truck it would reduce your gas mileage by a couple of miles to the gallon I hope this helps good luck
  • rgrgal94rgrgal94 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Ford Ranger that has been running great. Would not start yesterday.
    Tried jumping battery,. etc. Will not turn over. Tried replacing battery. Still will not turn over. Help.
  • having same problem with 1999 Ford Ranger. Have you found a solution. Any appreciated. According to manual the sensor is located in the tail shaft. However where sensor should be is plugged off.(Trans type 4R44E)
  • brit2brit2 Posts: 2
    Thanks Super,I will give it a try,but I think that the lack of vacuam in the gas tank is the route of the problem-but I don't know how to fix it.
  • dbajohndbajohn Posts: 1
    The other day I pulled a small trailer about 50 miles with no trouble, then I had to put my ranger in 4x4 to get through some lose sand with the trailer, and when I stepped on the brakes the radio lost all power. The next morning when I started the truck the radio came on but when I stepped on the brake the radio lost power.
    It continues to do this. I have checked fuses and they seem OK, everything else works, just the radio has lost power, total loss, even the clock doesn't come on.
    Its a 1994 ranger XLT 4x4, 6 cyl 4 liter, standard trans, very vanilla truck. Hope someone has a simple fix for this annoying problem.
  • keithreedkeithreed Posts: 1
    I had the same prob. with my '99. got an answer off another site that did the trick, and it's cheap. Spray the door mechanism with WD-40. Liberally. (Inside the door) It really worked.
  • mjlnjhmmjlnjhm Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 with an extended cab, which has developed a transmission problem. At about 75,000 miles the transmission began to slip out of gear when the engine was cold. I would back out of the driveway, and every time it would come out of gear and refuse to go into drive for 5 to 10 seconds. It would continue to slip as I drove which was hazardous especially while merging onto highways, etc. Once it was completely warmed up it would seem to run fine. I had an extended warranty for up to 100,000 miles, so I began making trips to the dealer for repair. Six trips and now at 110,000 miles (and out of warranty) later, the problem remains. Any ideas?
  • putch57putch57 Posts: 1
    Howdy.I have a 1989 Ranger .Whats the secret to adjustig the camber?This is a 4wd model.
  • spiderg8rspiderg8r Posts: 1
    My 98 Mazda B4000 (Ranger) suddenly won't leave the driveway after being parked for a few days. Put each of the front tires up with the jack and each could move. Rear driver side can move reluctantly up on the jack and will spinn out when I try to back out. When I tried to raise the rear passenger side, truck started to roll. Any ideas - can the brakes lock up? Parking brake be stuck (pedal release seems to be working properly)? Or am I likely looking at a catastrophic problem with the transmission or axel?
  • berri2berri2 Posts: 2
    Hi Steve

    Sounds like a Nice truck, only one problem...I live in Oregon. Darn !

    Thanks, Sheri
  • jlezottejlezotte Posts: 1
    I drove my 89 ranger about ten feet, then it quit. It turns over, but the timing belt doesn't turn. Any thoughts?
  • freerangefreerange Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem with a 1996 Ranger. Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I think it is a vacumn leak in this system that causes the outside air damper not to work properly but have not found the exact cause.
    JR in Dallas
  • wbr3wbr3 Posts: 1
    I had the same issue with '99 when there is a air temperature increase. I found that that the door switch is composed of a steel bracket and a plastic switch. What happens is that during a sudden increase in temperature, the steel bracket expands quicker than the plastic switch housing, and the switch would remain open until their size stabilized. I removed the switch and "adjusted" the steel bracket in a bench vise. However since reading the forum, I'd try the WD40 approach first. ( a lost less work ! )
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I have a 97 Ranger and I experienced the same exact problem. I have changed (4 sets) of plugs, wires, coils packs, fuel filter, air filter, catalytic converter and exhaust pipe including muffler, PCV, Throttle Position Sensor and I even had the fuel injectors cleaned. I have had no codes according to the Ford dealer. There has been a good change since I changed the Throttle Position Sensor. It is running OK now but, it still has slight surging like you said you had. It lets go around 3500 RPMs in 3rd gear and I don't understand why. The coil packs are from Auto Zone. Do you think they could just not be agreeing with my truck. I have changed them both twice. What was the solution in your case? Please help.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    '97 Ford Ranger manual with slight surging throughout gears. As you shift through the gears it will open up at different RPMs (lower as you go higher in the gear range.) Any suggestions?
  • martinw1martinw1 Posts: 1
    my 95 explorer has similar symptoms, I dont think its a fuel pump, they either pump or dont pump. I'm thinking relay or ignition control module, fuel filter might need changed too .
  • joecarnutjoecarnut Posts: 215
    I noticed a few of you complained about pinging problems.
    Many times that can be a known ranger problem that either the MAF sensor needs cleaning or replacing.
    My apologies if this has been addressed already and hope it helps.
  • I have been having this problem for a long time.
    When ever I accelerate on the freeway, particularly when going up a grade, the engine sputters and completely looses power, and acts like it is not getting gas.
    I have replaced the Plugs, Wires, Fuel Filter, Fuel Pressure Regulator. and Fuel Pump.
    I have replaced the O2 sensor recently.
    I'm thinking, could it be EGR?
    It does it on acceleration. When I hold the pedal at a certain place, at lets say 60 mph, or around 2500 rpm, it will come and go, but it always happens under a load.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I am tired of throwing parts at mine. The Ford dealer said there are no codes, and I think that means they are too lazy to troubleshoot. I did a few things to my truck today, and will let you know what I find out. I did think about the EGR but am not sure. Will research more.
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