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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

1454648505198

Comments

  • Bleeder valve is above the line connection to the transmission bellhousing. Make sure when bleeding that you remove the rubber bladder insert from the reservoir and really fill it with enough fluid. If, during bleeding, air is inadvertently drawn in to the top of the system and makes it's way to the master cylinder, it's a pain to bleed out. You have to remove the master cylinder and turn it upside down to get the air out. Check out the tech tips at "therangerstation.com". Good luck.
  • Most serpentine belts have spring tensioners which look like idler wheels pressing against the smooth side of the belt in such a fashion that tension in that direction is increased. They are typicallyabout 2 inches in diameter, and can be released by placing a hex socket (maybe on a breaker bar so you can get some leverage) on the exposed end and relieving the tension so that the belt can be slipped off of the easiest pulley location that you can get to.
    There is a sticker showing belt routing usually on the front near the radiator, unless it's missing. That sticker shows the location of the tensioner pulley too.
  • eautigereautiger Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 with a 5-speed. Any thoughts as to why the Clutch Hydraulic line would just pop off the slave cylinder after 10 months? It appears the outside of the quick connect is missing. Could this be a frozen slave cylinder problem? It popped off in the middle of a shift, I felt it and the clutch pedal went rock hard. By the way, that clutch hydraulic line is a dealer item. M.S.R.P? $75.00!! Thanks alot Ford.
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    As mostlylucky mentions in his post look for a pully that the smooth of the belt goes in between or around. Before you remove the belt and you don't have a sticker to refer to (should be on the hood or on the radiator top) make a diagram of the belt routing and note the pattern of which way the ribs on the belt are going around the pulleys. If you are still stumped on which one is the idler pulley to move try going to a NAPA or Pep Boys store and one of the counter men or service people can show you. The pulley is under some tension so you will need a3/8 or 1/2 ratchet or brealer bar to unspring the tension.
  • eautigereautiger Posts: 3
    :confuse: I have a 1991 with a 5-speed. Any thoughts as to why the Clutch Hydraulic line would just pop off the slave cylinder after 10 months? It appears the outside of the quick connect is missing. Could this be a frozen slave cylinder problem? It popped off in the middle of a shift, I felt it and the clutch pedal went rock hard. By the way, that clutch hydraulic line is a dealer item. M.S.R.P? $75.00!! Thanks alot Ford. Is the slave cylinder a big problem for all of you?
  • eautigereautiger Posts: 3
    It should be hooked up to master cylinder inside the firewall, right near where pedal connects to master cylinder. It is wrapped around the shaft. Be careful sliding it off, tabs break easily.
  • engineer2engineer2 Posts: 2
    For what it's worth, my next door neighbor bought a new 2002 Ranger with a V-6 (don't recall which one) and I saw him fire it up in the morning a couple of times during the winter and I saw billows of black smoke coming from the tail pipe while it ran very rough. After a couple of minutes of nursing it, it smoothed out. Periodically mine has done a similar thing when first starting it up (2001 Ranger with a 3.0L), but not nearly as bad (or from my angle I didn't get a good look at the exhaust). I suspected the computer was linked to the problem, but I never had that confirmed. Something was telling the injection to pour in the gas. I wonder if others have had the same intermitant problem?
  • jselphjselph Posts: 1
    Hi All,
    Has anyone removed the bed from an 89 ranger 2wd? My fuel gauge is kaput and I'd like to see if the float is sunk or just stuck, and I believe that moving the bed is the easiest idea. I'd like to know if there is a wiring connector for the lighting on the bed or do I have to pull all of the bulb sockets out of the bed before removing it from the frame.
    Also, has anyone changed the AC over from R12 to R134, and if so how does it work?
    Thanks,
    John
  • OK here goes the story, my 98 2,5 L 5 speed would not start on Sat. JUly 4. Pulled the battery and it tested good at the local Autozone. Put the battery back nad the truck started! WOW~ Took my truck back to autozone and they tested teh electrical and said it all looked good. Monday, July13, my truck would not start. It had all the looks of the battery, yet the starter did not turn. Pulled the starter and had it checked at O'Riley's wher I boought it 4 years ago and it was bad, lifetime warranty so they replaced it. Insalled the strater, truck did not start. Had a jump start, took the truck to Autozone where I got the battery, they tested the electrical and the battery was dead. 3 years old in Houston, TX is about the life cycle so I got a new battery, prorated cost (it was a 5 year battery) and the truck ran all week, until tonight. The battery crapped out again. The AC was fixed on Thursday July2. Any correlation?
  • ryan2005ryan2005 Posts: 3
    actually i found it the day after i posted. its one of the smooth pulleys almost directly in front of the fan. after i found it i put the belt on and the the squeak was gone. there was a diagram in the hood but there was no label to where the tension pulley was. thanks a lot thouigh i appreciate it.
  • Sounds like the ignition module.
    It is located on the lower part of the throttle body.
    It has a plug on top and on the bottom.
    Does this truck have a distributor?
    If NOT, it might be the Crankshaft timing sensor.
    It's located down behind the crankshaft pulley.
    It's a bit of a job to replace, but can be done
  • I"ve had the same problem.
    Its the radiator, get a new one.
  • I am trying to figure out what is wrong with my daughter's Ford Ranger. It is a 4 cylinder 1999 with automatic tranny. It has recently developed a problem when starting off. If you release to brake and let the truck begin to roll and be easy with the accelerator, it will go. The problem is when you you accelerator normally, it will cough and cut off. As I stated earlier, this is my daughter's truck, and I can't let her drive until I get this fixed, because of the traffic being pretty heavy in our area. The purpose of saying that, the truck starts back with no problems and runs good afterward. It just cuts off when starting off. When it does cut off, it makes a noise like compressed air being released. Up to this point, I have replaced the spark plugs (8) and plug wires (8). I am now attempting to replace the fuel filter. I have come across a small problem with this too. The fuel line connections are something I have never seen. The connector looks kind of like a air hose connector, only it does not have the spring loaded collar that you slide back to release air hose connectors. I cannot figure out how to release these connectors. I need some advise on these problems if anyone can help me. THANKS!!!
  • thanks for your help but have already replaced both
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    I would get some electronic cleaner and clean the MAF sensor. The connector does have a spring on the inside. You cannot see it. There is a small tool you can pick up at the auto parts store that costs about 5 bucks. Ask the guys there.
  • seldersselders Posts: 5
    Sorry I haven't had the chance to get back on here. Damn hurricanes throw your whole schedule off. You've allready done more with the catalytic converter, and exhaust than I've got around to. The coils I bought were from Advanced Auto and they seem to be doing O.K. I ran the test for codes on it about a week ago and guess what, It said that the throttle positioning sensor wasn't getting enough signal. Actually I think it said signal was low, but it's getting replaced next. The only other thing I 've been able to figure out is that the whole "surging" thing may very well be due to just plain old lack of power. Mine dosen't seem to do it if the A.C. is turned off, or better yet wait til you're driving and in the middle of third gear turn off the A.C. and see if it still does it. I've been looking into going a different route with mine and trying to free up as much H.P. as I can. We'll see how that goes I guess.
  • ryan9999ryan9999 Posts: 2
    I have a 3.0l v-6 1999 ford ranger. I'm trying to replace the water pump.
    I have one bolt that i can't get to. According to the haynes guide i need
    to remove the "air conditioning compressor and power steering pump bracket"
    but it doesn't say how to do this. Do i have to remove the belt tensioner to do
    this? I only really see one bolt holding this bracket on and when i removed
    that it did nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • dicklambdicklamb Posts: 1
    My neighbor and I replaced the alternator in his 1999 Ranger 4 WD 3.0L pickup. That fixed the charging system problems, but when we drove it we found the speedometer no longer worked. Of course, everything needing data from the speedometer (e.g., ABS, cruise control, shifting) has problems. Is there anything anywhere near the alternator that we could have bumped to cause this?
  • ntrdntrd Posts: 1
    the vehicle got up to about 35 MPH and then just shut off. The oil pressure dropped repidly to zero, and everything went dead. (no noises, no vibration, will turn over with starter, just won't start now.
  • budselectbudselect Posts: 1
    I ned help I can't seem to find the orfice tube , on my ac. Thanks for any help
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Well the 2.3 liter engine only produces about 100 horsepower but, you should still be able to get most of it out of the engine. In my case it seemed as though I was only getting half. I have gotten some very good results after my last battle with my truck. It had been an ongoing war for about a month and a half. I found an intermediate connector attached to the ground wire that connects to the front coil pack right mounting bolt. You should be able to find this on your truck. It had some oxidation in this connector. I filed this oxidation off. What I should have done was cut this completely out and soldered the wire ends together. I used electronic cleaner in all the connectors to the fuel injectors and any connector related to the ignition. I also sprayed electronic cleaner to clean the MAF sensor. I bought some SEAFOAM cleaner at the auto parts store and cleaned my throttle body very well. I removed it competely to do this. I also sprayed SEAFOAM into a vacuum line in the intake manifold while the truck was running. I actually had a friend spray it while I revved the engine up and down to about 3500 RPMs. This SEAFOAM stuff is awesome. I would really recommend you do this. The results were amazing. I have so much power since I did these things. And even with the air conditioning on, I have very, very little power loss. I am so pleased. Try these things and see what happens.
  • ryan9999ryan9999 Posts: 2
    never mind i figured it out. There are 3 bolts on the front of the bracket.
    Only one of these are obvious the other 2 are recessed behind the
    belt tensioner and you have to feel around with your fingers to find these.
    There are also 2 on the bottom that are double nutted. The first nut holds
    up wires after these are removed the second nut unscrews the bolt from the
    engine.
  • Not that I know about around the alternator, howver, my daughter has a 1999 ranger (automatic trans.), and the transmission stopped chaging gear automatically, then the ABS light came on a little later, then the over-drive started going on & off, finally, the speedodometer quit working, some similar problems you are speaking of. It was the speed sensor in the rear-end of all places. Hope it helps you, I am very thankful to have found this web-site and hope to help and be helped. I have not yet solved my problem. Good Luck!!
  • seldersselders Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info I'll have to give it a try when I get the chance and or the money. I had pretty good luck just replacing the coils all togther, But I still lose quite a bit with the A.C. on I'll give the SeaFoam a try. Thanks again.
  • Did you ever find out what the problem was? I love my Ranger EXCEPT when the bl..dy thing won't start! I have had the fuel pump replaced and the issue remains the same. If I bang the tank cover, it might start. If I wait 15 minutes it might start. Ugh!!!
  • juno139juno139 Posts: 1
    I apologize if this topic has already been addressed elsewhere. If it has, just let me know where and I'll read up there.
    I have a '98 Ranger V6 3.0L. Recently I discovered that the brake lights aren't working. The taillights, the reverse lights, and the turn signals all work fine, but when I press on the brake the lights won't light up. A friend who is a Dodge truck mechanic told me it was probably the brake relay switch, and said if I got the part he'd fix it. My problems are these: first, is "brake relay switch" the correct term for this part? I've looked all over online and can't find anything matching the name. Second: what is the cost for this part? I'm not made of money and I need to know in advance if it's expensive so I can set aside some cash.
    Any help is much appreciated.
  • lisa15lisa15 Posts: 1
    1999 Ford Ranger oil pressure dropped to zero and the engine died. Only 50,000 miles on it and well cared for. Over $4,000 to fix. Was wondering if this problem is common enough that a recall was issued or maybe one should be.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It just called the 'brake light switch'. It's usually on the brake pedal. Should be less than $10 at auto parts store. My 94 Ranger has eaten 3 of these in the 7 years I've owned it.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've read a lot of Ranger message boards, and a massive failure of a motor is very seldom heard of.

    'Well cared for'? What actually failed? Rod bearings? Main bearing? Did the low oil pressure light and/or gauge come on/read zero? What motor?

    Go to the NHTSB government site and check for recalls. I've never heard of one.
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    Whoa before you go out and buy the swicth try this. I have a 98 V6 3.0l as well and what I thought to be a faulty switch turned out to be the rear brake lights. They are on a separate circuit that than signal and reverse. My bulbs were burned out and I replaced them. Brake switch in may area goes for 38 dollars so try the bulbs first.
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