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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • cpousnrcpousnr Posts: 1,611
    a little aluminum polish on the wheels never hurt.
  • Might be some water trapped inside from a romp through the puddles. It's good to drill small holes out of sight but in good position to drain that kind of stuff. Someone else mentioned before about spraying oil onto unfinished surfaces (under car, etc) to help form a barrier. There are several products at automotive stores that can remove the rust and restore metal to a degree, you just gotta figure out how to apply it...
  • r1pilotr1pilot Posts: 2
    Mine's a 1997 STX 4.0L 4x4 Ext cab. Bought new in August of '97, it has only 40,835 miles on it.

    I have seen a few posts about the 'dumb dome', well now my alarm is going off randomly. Over the weekend I quickly looked for the conventional door plunger type and didn't see it. Where is the dome light switch anyway. I'm guessing the fix from the past threads that I have seen is to shoot it with WD-40?

    Oh yeah, I've had my fair share of issues with it. At 12k miles, the fog light bracket rusted off...completely detached from the mount. Same thing at 22k miles. Foglight lens came off at 38k mile...now its my problem.

    At 38k miles, my mileage strangely went from 16 mpg to 19mpg in the city.

    At 36k (but 37 months old) the AC went out. Dealer charged me a $50 deductable and fixed the O-ring. At 40k miles the recovery dryer tank (evaporater) rusted through...you know that foam wrap that keeps the moisture nice and tight to the poorly coated steel can. Fortunately, being in the Detroit area and being an automotive supplier on a Ford truck account, Henry Ford 'donated' one to me. They were $240 at the dealer.

    Having my father work his whole life and retire from Ford, it somewhat pains me to look elsewhwere for vehicles. But I recently bought a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo and love it. I just wonder what the next vwhicle will be.

    Oh yeah, where was that dome light switch?
  • ranger47ranger47 Posts: 32
    I too have experienced a problem with the dome light staying on part time. Works the same with either door and it may stay on from a few minutes to a couple of hours. Since it does it from either door, I would think it was a relay. Does anyone know where that relay would be located. This is on a '96 ex. cab 2.3 and 5 speed. Thanks for any input that might chase down the problem.
  • madman390madman390 Posts: 72
    My brother owns a 2000 Ranger (V-6, 5 spd, 4x2). he tells me that his check engine light came on while driving. The dealer checked it out and told him something about the "EGR valve and/or gasket" and something about "removing and replacing transducer pressure." I am hearing this second-hand through my mom so the verbage is not exact. The dealer wants to charge him over $500 to fix.

    Have any of you ever heard of this?

    Madman
  • mishalmishal Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Ranger which had a vibration at take off and stop. Took to my dealer, they ended up replacing the drive shaft assembly. Said that the output shaft from the transmission had some slop and that the u-joint couldn't handle it. Basically, the new drive shaft has a tighter spline shaft on it and a larger u-joint. World of difference. Check it out.
  • cpousnrcpousnr Posts: 1,611
    Could I suggest you go to Pep Boys and buy a Haynes manual on the Ranger?

    Cheap, 12 bucks and would answer all your questions.

    More than likely the relay is in the engine compartment with the fuses or on the left side of dash, you have to open the door and remove a panel. Do not know which one it is.

    "Give a man a fish and he eats for a day. Teach a man to fish and he has food for life"
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    If the Ranger is a 2000 then it should be covered under warranty unless you have got over 36000 miles on it already. Even then the service guy could give a better price if it just came off warranty(call ford customer support, number in the owners manual) and if these are all related to the pollution controls such as the EGR valve they are covered under the EPA warrnty for 5 years and I believe 50,000 miles.
  • madman390madman390 Posts: 72
    Thanks for the info. The truck is a daily driver, with lots of miles on it already. Around 40K I believe. And like I said, I am hearing this second hand, so I don't have all the info. But I will pass this on.

    Thanks again.

    madman
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    Just in case you're still checking...

    The check engine light will come on for a number of reasons. Personally I think car manufactures were brilliant. They created a computer in the vehicle that has awesome diagnostic information to tell the Tech what is wrong with your truck will little or no diagnosis on their part.

    All you see is a "Check Engine" light. Absolutely brilliant. Did you know a loose gas cap will set the light off due to an imbalance in the gas tank back-pressure. Funny thing is is that the computer has an error code it spits out for that. And again, all you see is a Check Engine light.

    Now that I'm off my soap box, I think I would definately be in the Dealer's face a little bit more. These parts should be covered under the smog components warranty (and/or aspiration system warranty) which is generally longer than the bumper to bumper 3yrs/36,000 mile warranty.

    Read the manual carefully and it will probably lead you to glory (getting the dealer to worry about fixing your truck rather than your friend).

    Good Luck,
    John
  • larscotlarscot Posts: 1
    2000 Ranger, shortbed, 2.5L, manual, Air, AM/FM. Base model, nothing sexy here. Problem - Engine buzz thru the radio - problem developed after hitting a bump in road. Doesn't matter if AM, FM or whatever. Volume of buzz doesn't vary with radio volume. STRONGLY SUSPECT grounding issue, Ford dealership Mechanic thinks otherwise. I asked him to check the ground points, just for grins, which he says he "did". Replaced radio, replaced Noise filter (capacitor), replaced parts related to fuel pump (related to service bulletin with this problem as a symptom). Problem usually goes away or becomes very low-level (barely audible) for a few days, gradually returns. Changin' parts aint working, IMHO, but it's hard to change the paradigms that the average mechanic works under They still think "mechanical", not electrical.

    Still think its a grounding issue. Saw this on past cars - ground issues are sneaky gremlins that a computer won't catch. A ground can look secure and electrically "pure", but sometimes enough of a dialelectric residual exists from paint slop-over to wreak havoc with some of the more sensitive circuitry in today's vehicles. Remedies usually involve going to all ground points using either a deburring tool, emery cloth, or both and wearing down the metal to alleviate any residual films, seen or unseen. Vehicles aren't just "machines" anymore, they're sophisticated devices. Diagnostic computers will do the trick in 99% of the instances, but the 1% are still the mystery that need Tech guys to solve the problem.
  • darflerdarfler Posts: 1
    So I'm driving my BRAND NEW 2k1 Ranger XLT at about 75-80 on the highway and am forced to use my brakes heavily for the first time since I bought it. I had about 1,050 miles on it at the time and when I hit the brakes suddenly the ABS goes completely nuts. My brake pedal was fluctuating wildly (3-4 inches about 3 times a second). then after that every time I hit my brakes I heard a cyclic grinding sound.

    I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to get this looked at, and sure enough the Wheel Speed Sensors on both front tires, that essentially feed info to the ABS system on how to properly function, had completely failed. Additionally, in my rear brakes, the "counter gear"(?) that has a similar function for the rear ABS was missing a tooth. I have to assume that they all failed at the same time.

    To make a long story short, I'm lucky that I kept a calm head and didn't wreck the truck as I was driving in heavy traffic, and had an extraordinarily crazy failure. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this before????? I've talked with two different service managers at dealerships, and neither had ever heard of anything even similar before in the 9 years that Rangers have had ABS systems.

    Really confused, can anyone shed some light on why this may have happened?
  • If it's the noise is related to engine RPM, (i.e. spark plug fire), your radio's wire harness is probably right next to a power feed for the dash. Every time a plug fires, you'll hear a click or buzz sound, especially if the power line is next to the outgoing speaker wires. This would make sense as it comes and goes, could be the wire harness shifting around.
    Step 1, tape down the wire bundle so it is as far away from any other wires, firewall, etc.
    Step 2, Try and get some insulating tape or other EMF insulating material and wrap it around the radio wires. If it only happens during radio play (no CD or Tape) then it could be happening to the antenna wire. If it happens anytime the radio is on, even CD or Tape, then definately check the outgoing wires.
    The hard part is to get the radio out to do so. You need special ford tools to remove the head unit. They look like 2 separate wire U's that insert into the holes on either side. You can try making them out of a hanger, but it's best to goto the dealer or stereo shop and borrow them.
  • Brand new ranger edge 4x4,loving it except for one thing: at 60 miles an hour, the dashboard vibrates with a low hum and every time I go over a bump the dash makes an abrupt loud CLICK type noise that will sustain for a while if I hold my tire on the rumble strip.... have located it (I think) to either the tilt wheel or the dash right in front of the driver. anyone else experiencing these types of problems?! should I just go to my dealer and have them pull out and re-screw in the dash or what?! thanks in advance
  • I've had two problems. The wipers would occassionally make a pass over the windshield of their own accord. Switch replaced, never happened again. A slight thump on gentle acceleration, driveshaft replaced. Problem gone. And that was it. I don't have any of that "typical of 4x4" slop either. The tranny shifts into and out of 4wd like its a Park Avenue. No looseness at all. It is a 99 XLT supercab 4x4 with 4.0L and 5sp auto. Even now, with 19,000 miles on it, I can't make anything, dash, bed, doors, whatever, squeak rattle or hum even when I try. No matter how rough the road, it doesn't make any noise. Truly the best vehicle, noise and maintenance-wise I have ever owned. When my lease is up I will grab a new one, same setup. Oh yeah, I'm 6'1" and this truck fits me like a glove. I've calculated the last 3 tankfuls. 21 mpg in town, and each tank had one trip to the race track with a trailer and motorcycle.
  • What were you towing to the race track bifftannen? I'm thinking of getting a 01 or 02 4.0l, but my 67 mustang 460 bracket car and trailer (and tools) might be a bit much for the compact truck. Especially since I want 4x2, reg cab, and a stick. Oh well, still got access to a 92 F-150 for weekend warrior duty.

    interior noise by 2k1edge4x4--->Sounds like a strange harmonics issue. If the dealer can't help, you can probably fix it yourself with either a small wedge of paper or maybe some clay to stop the vibration from occuring.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    Not sure if you are still checking, but Midnight offered some excellent suggestions. One key is whether this is just with the radio or all components (CD, cassette, radio, etc.) If it's just the radio remember that most modern day atennas are grounded.

    John
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    All I can say is... Ouch!

    Hope the Dealer was able to patch you up. Just to totally screw with the sales folks I always ask them if they mind if I test the brakes.

    When they say, "Sure, go ahead," and they always do, I slam them hard to kick on the ABS. I mean, how else do you know how the vehicle will respond in an emergency?

    You should have seen the Toyota guy's face though.

    Heh heh,
    John
  • I guess a little flat spot in the tires (hopefully not with ABS) will even out after a few thousand miles... :)
    But seriously, sounds like good advice to me.

    I had a friend who recently test drove a new corvette with 6 speed manual. Well, he wasn't really a serious buyer, but he liked corvettes and was curious. So he took it onto the highway and was really using the 6th gear, doing well over 100 mph. (Not recommended, but it must of been fun!)
    Luckily the salesperson was cool, but the point was test drive your car or truck and make sure it's a good vehicle in ALL aspects before purchasing.
  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    Yeah...I did end up getting ABS with my Tacoma but I'm not sure if I'll ever use it. I usually save "breaking the sound barrier speeds" for my Integra GS-R when my wife isn't in it.

    I would hate to think what would happen though if I had any kinda load in the back or were towing if ever I had the reason to engage the ABS system (assuming an emergency situation).

    Honestly, for those folks who are reading this, I think the ABS system is just like any other system on your car. You should try them out in a remote area at least once to see how your car reacts to an emergency. It will give you an eye opening perspective.

    John
  • misterratmisterrat Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab this week. I have noticed two annoying noises, and was wondering if anyone else has heard them. The first is a rhythmic thumping sound coming from the front wheels/tires at speeds under 40 mph. There seems to be some rolling resistance associated with the thumping. I wonder if there might be a problem with the front brakes? The second noise is a loud clicking sound coming from the A/C compressor. I looked under the hood, and I noticed that every 30 seconds or so, the A/C compressor makes a loud click sound and then stops. A few seconds later it makes another, louder click sound and starts again. This double click sound repeats over and over again until I turn the climate control knob to a non-A/C selection, or turn the temperature control knob to a warmer selection. Is it normal for the A/C compressor to cycle on and off like that? If so, is it possible to get rid of the loud clicking noise?
  • misterratmisterrat Posts: 4
    My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4 door has a problem on the passenger side. The front and rear doors were hung a 1/4 inch too high and the rear door latches don't match up with the body of the truck. This causes a clunking sound whenever I drive over a bump in the road due to the rear door latches being off kilter. Is this something Ford will fix under warranty. How hard is it to rehang the doors properly? How long do you think it will have to be in the shop? Has anyone else had a similar problem with their 4 door Ranger? Thanks.
  • rta3rta3 Posts: 4
    In response to mess.#88,I believe you can get the options your looking for by starting off with an XL and build from there,but would have to be specially ordered from the factory through the dealer. It could take six to eight weeks maybe longer for delievery.Sorry for the late response I just got onto this forum.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    i also have a 2000 Ranger (4x4, 4.0 liter, auto). it is a busy compressor, and cycles a lot. thatos why i do most of my driving without AC. it just eatds more gas anyways. i prefer the windows down, when possible. as far as door alignment, that should be no problem. the doo hinges are desingned sot that they can be merely lossened (bolts thru a slotted opening) and the hinge-door assembly moved and adjusted. it shouldn't take more than 45 inutes of shop time to adjust doors, unless the vehicle was wrecked, and the door jams are sprung.
  • dcrislerdcrisler Posts: 118
    My 94' Mazda B4000LE Cabplus(Ranger), I looked for a Mazda tread on edmunds but did not find one. Reading this one has been enlightening.

    It seems I have had the driveshaft problem since about 30k miles (111k now)! Truck has been great other that the driveshaft clunk. Until now, started it up on friday, and it ran like it was on 3 cylinders... reving it up to 3k or so smooths it out, and after awhile stays that way. however it comes and goes... including dieing completely on the highway or at lights. Since it has the distributorless ignition, I think it has to be the comnputer or the coil unit. Has anyone else seen this. Also I noticed someone else mentioned using K&N filters... my tank of gas went 40 miles further with a change to a new K&N filter.
  • cpousnrcpousnr Posts: 1,611
    Well, normal noise for a Ranger.

    The clicking is the AC relay, if you have the selector in the first detent to the right, it runs AC off and on with the blower. Read the manual to find the selections without AC.

    The curchunk or thump noise, well, my 99 has done that since new and now have 45K.
    No problems with it, just something it does.
  • FROM LIQUID TO SOLID IN BLINK OF EYE, MATERIAL QUIETS CAR AC


    In the 1961 Disney classic "The Absent-Minded Professor," actor Fred MacMurray played a professor who developed a black gooey substance dubbed Flubber, enabling his Ford Model T to challenge the laws of gravity and fly. Ford Motor Company scientists now are experimenting with a different black gooey substance that also seems to transcend the normal laws of physics. This new material has the unique ability to change viscosity on command. While Ford's gooey substance or magnetorhelogical material (MR material), the official lab name, won't enable cars to fly, it can behave as a free-flowing liquid, a paste-like solid, or anything in between, switching properties in the blink on an eye when a magnetic field is applied. Ford is experimenting with the use of MR material in air-conditioning compressors as a way to subdue the audible clicking that occurs when the clutch engages and disengages. The MR material allows the clutch to gradually engage, providing a smoother, less noisy contact or "soft start." When the clutch disengages, the material reverts from the solid "locked-up" state to a fluid to let the clutch slip out of contact. This soft engaging and disengaging of the clutch also makes power surges from the engine less noticeable, a condition typically felt in vehicles equipped with small displacement engines.


    http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=7941


    So like Mr Brown says above, it's probably a normal sound of the clutch engaging or disengaging.

  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    But it doesn't sound like your Thumping noise is. It could be a number of things but you are right to suspect the brakes but it could also be something simple.

    Does it come from both sides or just one? If its from both then you should suspect that the problem is bigger than you and have the dealer check it out.

    If it's just from one side (i.e., driver front tire), don't begrudge the simple stuff. Start by checking your tires for nails. The heads will make a thumping noise as they go round. Is the wheel in balance? After those things, I would default to the brakes but more specifically the rotors. If you've racked up a lot of miles already, have the brakes checked (changed if needed) and if the brakes need new pads or shoes, have them turn the respective rotor or drum.

    Good Luck,
    John
  • dcrislerdcrisler Posts: 118
    found the problem... bought a cheap code scanner and found a bad maf (mass airflow sensor), replaced it and all ok.
  • gerichogericho Posts: 11
    My 1989 Ranger supercab is in very good condition but the carpet on the driver's side gets wet when the vehicle is out in the rain. It occurs every time the truck is driven or parked in the rain. This is water and not other fluid. The dealer could not find a cause of the leak. I also had a glass shop check the windshield seals. The door drain holes are open. I put silicone sealant on the gutter above the door without benefit. Anyone experience this problem or have any ideas?
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