Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • bonestarbonestar Posts: 1
    Please post this everywhere you can. Here is the solution and it doesn't invlove driveshaft replacement or removal. Drill a 7/32 hole in your split yoke close to your front u-joint(so you don't drill into your splines). Purchase a 1/4x28 grease fitting 1/4x28 tap. Install grease fitting and inject heavy duty grease into your driveshaft. This will coat your splines. Do not overfill or you will rupture your boot that covers your 2 piece connection. Easy to do and if driveline slop comes back, get the grease gun out and recoat in minutes. Worked great on my 2000 extended cab.
  • A friend just bought it. We can't find a back up light switch! I see the Neutral Safety Switch atop the trany (with nothing connected to it). Are they one and the same? Thanks.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Had a very similar problem on my wife's Explorer. I could be driving on the smoothest of roads and, then "bump." Made me wonder if I was crazy. The problem only showed up after my wife was in an accident and we had to have the front bumper cover replaced. So, I looked around in all of the area's that would get really wet while driving, and wound up finding a dangling sensor at the front of the drivers side wheel well. I think the repair manual said it was the Ambient Air Temperature sensor. I accessed the sensor from the headlight bulb replacement access panel under the hood and pulled it up and stuck it into a hole (it had a clip attached to it) in the frame where it would stay dry, and haven't had a problem since. Not sure if this is the problem, but you might try and reposition that sensor up higher. If you are out for a drive and notice your truck starts bumping, when you arrive at your location, look in this access panel and see if any of the sensors in that compartment are wet or have snow built up on them. Just a thought. Not even sure if you have the same symptoms that I had.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Ranger transmissions are made in France. Why be surprised when Ranger transmissions fail?
  • liftedlifted Posts: 2
    have them check the speed sensor and the crankshaft position sensor
  • wil1wil1 Posts: 2
    I had a problem like that with mine and it turned out to be the idle valve air converter sillinoid. just go to auto zone or garage and have them plug it in to tell you for sure. but it is an easy fix with just two bolts if that is the problem.
  • wil1wil1 Posts: 2
    i took my truck into a garage to get it looked at because it had stalled. they said that the problem was a blown fuse under ther hood and they do not know the cause of the problem. anybody have an idea how i could fix it.
  • sdwarrensdwarren Posts: 1
    I have a 94 ford ranger V6 4x4 extended cab. On rainy days it doesn't start unless i hold the accelerator down. It also likes to "hop" on occasion during mild accelerations. I've also noticed on occasion that the engine cuts in and out on hard accelerations. I know that there is a leak in my tank because fuel spills when i fill it up. Does this have anything to do with it? Please help.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Could be anything. You have to start with the basics and isolate it to a spark, air or fuel problem.
  • I own a 00' ranger xlt 4X4 with 70,000 miles and over the past year at very random times when I come to a stop, the rpm's drop as if it's going to stall. I touch the gas and everything is fine. I took it to the dealer and they checked all sensors and they were fine. They then drove it to recreate the problem and it didn't happen to them in the 20 miles they put on my truck. They have no idea what it could be. Does anybody out there have a similar problem?
  • peonymanpeonyman Posts: 6
    Thanks for the tip. I'll look around as you did for anything exposed. Funny how it only happens when it snows but not in rain. Maybe that means it is both moisture and temperature dependent.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Well my wife's Explorer would do it while it rained as well, but only if the temps were cool. If we were driving only in snow, then it wouldn't happen, or if it did, very rarely. If it was slushy, it got pretty bad. Melted snow (from road salt), also made it bad. Hopefully this helps you, I wonder how many other people have had it happen. This is the second Explorer in a row that has done this, only the first one was a lease and got turned in before a solution was found.
  • thiggsthiggs Posts: 1
    I have a 99 ford ranger v6 4.0 with 99,000 miles on it. Recently my truck has suffered a blown head gasket($1500) or a cracked cylinder($2500) and I don't know if I should fix it or trade it in. I still owe $5,000 on it and love the way it drives. I just seem to always have problems with it. The tranny has also been replaced at 50,000 miles. What is the history on ford rangers and what should I do? Will fixing it solve the promblem and give me another 100,000 miles?
    Thanks for your advice
  • ifd_32ifd_32 Posts: 3
    i have a 1988 extended cab ford ranger, it has a built 302 with 3speed trans 8.8 rear end, the gas hand doesn't work properly, does anybody know what to replace to fix it, i can do the work just dunno what to replace...thxs
  • ifd_32ifd_32 Posts: 3
    1500$ for a blowed head gasket? i don't think they cost that much, and they not hard to replace at all, if its a blowed head gasket i would fix it before trading it in.
  • I had a 94 Ranger 4 Banger that did the same thing. Ended up having a stopped up fuel line and filter. After replacing the filter the shop ran a cleaner through the system and everything went back to normal.
    The gunk that was in the lines looked like day old Expresso it was so thick.
    Hope this helped,
    G Bicknell
  • mrbzmrbz Posts: 2
    HELP- my son's ranger pickup(90 2.3 4cly 5spd distributorless ignition system)we have replaced everything from the timing belt, to the brain and all other electrical components related, new timing belt installed timing marks lined up and still do not have any spark after the coil packs??? any suggestions gladly appreciated, running out of options!HELP
  • climbmoclimbmo Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2000 ranger 4WD ex cab, is there a way to grease the tie rod ends? The manual says you can remove the plug in the end. Does anyone know if it will unscrew? I tried grabbing it with vise grips however there is very little surface to work with.
  • mrbzmrbz Posts: 2
    HELP! My son has a 90 ranger with same problems, but we've just replaced the timing belt and still no spark. Can anyone help with the timing marks and firing order; the Chiltons manuel doesn't refer to the distributorless ignition timing belt after the new one is installed- thats where we are stuck-PLEASE HELP!
  • I have a 2000 ranger extcab 4x4 automatic, and I am currently having this jerking problem when my truck is shifting between gears. When I accelerate, my truck starts jerking hard and it feels like it is hesitating. The engine runs fine and the RPM’s does not seem like it is fluctuating. I had a problem before when I was driving and the truck started to hesitate, but that time the engine light went on and I found out that one of the spark plugs started to misfire. This problem is different; the truck feels like it is just jerking after it shifts to the next gear. The truck jerks 4-6 time or till I let off the gas. Has anyone experience the same problem. Is the transmission the problem or is it related to fuel or ignitions system?
Sign In or Register to comment.