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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • 2001 ranger edge regular cab short stepside bed yesterday started jerking and lurching at any constant speed. itis fine under acceleration and idles smooth when stopped. it has 36000 miles. could it be something in the rear end? the universal joints seem to be fine. thanks!
  • my 2001 ranger edge 2wd reg cab short stepside bed has developed a jerking or lurching problem at crusing speed. it is fine under acceleration and at idle. any suggestions ? thanks.
  • Hi guys and gals: Question-Does the 2.3 L, 2006 Ranger engine have a timing belt which will have to be replaced after x-number of miles, or a timing chain?
  • Have driven an 88 Ranger, 2 WD, 2.3, 5 speed, for 260,000 miles, valve cover never removed, still get 28-29 mpg hiway trip mileage at 60-65 MPH. Just bought a one owner 97 ranger, 60k miles, meticiously serviced, same 2.3 motor, tranny, but get 22-24 mpg, exact same hiway trips as with 88. No check engine light on 97, original owner says never got hiway trip mileage above 24 mpg. Any ideas on what is causing the 20-25% reduction in mpg? Would be interested in what hiway mpg other 2.3 Ranger owners are getting.
  • Both my rear brake lights went out ! I tried replacing the socket on the driver side to see if that helped it didn't. Any suggestions on fixing the problem! much appreciated
  • Have you checked your Brake Light Switch on the master cylinder? Samething happened to my kid's 98 XLT Ranger and that is what it is was, which is what I told her to look for. Just a thought anyway. BB
  • i have a 97 ranger xlt 4*4 and i have a new create engine from ford with 25000 km on it and just recently i notice that it is running rough at ideal and seems to be missing? changed all the plugs, wires,o2 sensor and put a new coil pack in it and nothing helped? does anyone have a fix for this because my dealer cant find it.
  • my kid just got an 86 ranger, free....so we've been fixing things like the wasted rubber tie rod ends and the shocks with no oil left. The mirrors on the doors are loose, the pass one just flops in the breeze. I took it off and after thinking about it a while, decided to just whack on it with a hammer...on the plate that retains the ball pivot. I hit it at the peened retainers, and just inside them, and it tightened it right up. No more loose mirror! if you do this, you might want to protect the finish, I just put it in the bench vise (opened up about 1.5") and the outside of the bracket got some small dings in it.
  • I have a wonderful 95 Ford Ranger (4 cylinder, manual) and it is my baby. The problem is that I don't know poop about trucks and have been kind of trying to learn as I go. Anyway, being a girl, I have had a bit of a rough time of it. Recently my poor truck has started making a clunking noise whenever I give it gas while changing gears. It's not a consistant noise which has baffles me and if I ride the clutch, it's less noticable. I've poked and proded around the undercarriage, with no luck. Any ideas what this may be? Now a second noise is occurring much to my consternation, it sounds like a belt problem...that tell-tale high-pitched "whee whee whee" noise, but it was my understanding that the serpentine belt was the only belt and I just replaced the goofy thing a couple of months ago, also the noise appears to be coming from somewhere other than under the hood. Can anyone help me?
  • There are many factors affecting miles per gallon, but after reading your post, the first thing that came to mind was the trucks have a different axle ratio--3.55:1--3.73:1--4.10:1, etc.
  • I have a 1999 ford ranger. Today, when I left work I noticed the abs light was on. Then when I accelerated after leaving a stop sign i noticed that the truck didn't want to shift into second gear (it's an automatic). It finally did shift after I let off the accelerator for a moment. Then I noticed when slowing down for another stop light that my speedometer would suddenly drop to 0mph when it got about to the 35mph mark. It does the same thing when accelerating also. The transmission also started shifting hard into second gear.

    Has anyone ever heard of anything like this. I haven't. Guess I'll be taking it to the dealership on this one.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Usual problem. The ABS sensor in the rear differential is bad. One bolt holds it in.
  • I have a 1998 with 115K on it with the 2.3, 5 speed. It gets about 25 mpg around town. I also have a 2005 Edge with the 3.0, 5 Speed ext cab edge. It gets about 19 in town and 23 on the highway. These things are pretty easy on gasoline for trucks.

    REV
  • Hi, just bought a '98 Supercab, 2 wheel drive, 3.0 automatic, 14" tires.The door sticker is missing that tells me things like tire size and pressure, towing info, weight, and whatever else is on there. The DMV insists on having the exact GVW from the sticker that I don't have. Does anyone have a similar model that they could tell me what info is on there? I called Ford and they tell me they cannot replace the sticker. Thanks for helping if you can. Frank
  • 92 Ranger that is absolutely DEAD when the ignition key is turned....here's the short and sweet version for diagnosis....The truck wouldn't start, made a clicking noise, then started on the second try. Then, upon the next starting attempt, absolutely nothing happened. Tried a jump-start, still nothing, but the cables got hot.

    Replaced the starter, fired up no problemo even without a jump. Then, stalled out in a left hand turn lane at an intersection (fun, woohoo!) and acted totally dead (no click, no nothing on turning key).

    Got it home, tried to jump it again and started melting the jumper cables even when I wasn't turning the key to start it. Obvious short somewhere, but where to start looking?

    Any likely culprits here?

    PS, the old starter tested fine when I bought the new one...figured it was stuck and got "unstuck" when I removed it.

    Also, the headlights don't work, nothing electrical works at all.

    Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,032
    This has to be somewhere in the starter circuit...you can't melt jumper cables unless you have a tremendous draw on the battery...hundreds of amps...this isn't a little wire we are melting, this is a heavy strand.

    Sooooo....if I were you I'd trace the cables all the way down and see what's up. Does your truck run an external starter solenoid? check that too if it does. Sounds like your positive cable is grounding somewhere.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Yes, the problem was in the starter circuit. When I installed the new starter, I installed a new cable from the battery to the starter (in case there was a problem with the old one).

    I traced it with my hand to see if it was rubbing somewhere, and it was. On the exhaust manifold heat shield. That explains why it started no problem and then died later, it took time to melt through the insulation.

    That's what I get for being sloppy and not tie-wrapping it away from the exhaust manifold. :mad:

    Thanks for you help and suggestion....Much appreciated!
  • My Ranger, 2.5l, has the check engine light coming on and going off on an intermittent basis. I pulled the codes and came up with P1504 and P1403, Intake Air Control Cirtcuit Malfunction and Differential Pressure Feedback respectively.

    I had a situation where the truck would not idle, but this has recently cleared up and it is idling fine now. I believe that may have been code P1504. What is the code P1403 and what sensors are involved?

    Any ideas will be appreciated.
  • I changed the speed sensor with a ford replacement part on rear end and it worked for a day and a half then quit again! Any ideas? :cry:
  • 1991 Ranger, 2.3, 2WD, many miles (unknown, really), standard tranny, Mazda type. About 2 years ago, developed a problem getting into 5th, but could get there with full clutching and force. The problem disappeared on its own.

    The problem has reappeared, about the same as before. It will probably take a good tranny mechanic to answer this one, but what is going on? I suspect that there is a problem with a synchronizer, but it may be carbon or dirt, which I might "cure" with some type of cleaner. I will appreciate any info available.
  • I have a 1999 Ford Ranger with the 4 cyl 5 speed 2.5 liter engine with about 97000 miles on it and a new transmission that will not exceed 85 miles per hour. Can anyone tell me if this is unusual?
  • I have a '76 Ford F-250. The other day I did a little welding on the rear bumper. When I went to start it a little later, there was no power anywhere except the horn. The battery is fully charged. I have 13 volts across the battery and to the front side of the solenoid, but no power and any of the other terminals of the solenoid in any key position. All the fuses are fine, fusible links are good, everything checks out o.k. Any ideas on where to check or what else might be wrong would be very helpful. :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    In general, just 3rd and 4th hand stuff I've read, says the Ranger 5-speeds are not very 'rebuildable'.

    I think what they said was if bearings are worn, the races are worn also, and because of the tranny being aliumum, this can't be repaired.

    I really don't have much knowledge about this. Just something for you to investigate further if you are thinking about tearing into the transmission.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    85 is about where the speed limiter shuts the truck down on all Rangers.

    And since a truck is basically a brick on wheels, 85 may be as fast as the 4 cylinder is going to push this brick.
  • I have an 89 Ranger 4 cyl. with 8 spark plugs...2.3L. Changed all plugs when I noticd the engine runnin' rough. New wires also, but still rough idle. Smoothes out a bit at higher rpm but I a mafraid to drive it until I get it right. 145,000 miles and this is the only problem EVER. Any ideas, I no nothing about this truck, took 4 hours to change the plugs and wires, and didn't do much to the roughness.
  • corecore Posts: 1
    I've got a 94 3.0 V-6, 140K miles, owned since new. Over the years, it's developed a rough idle, sluggish run condition. The spark knock was horrible, even in overdrive at highway speeds. Did all the usual tune up stuff. No help. I still needed premium fuel to cut the spark knock down. I found a cheap $2 fix that made a world of difference, brought my torque back, and cut spark knock by 90 percent. It's similar to what the quick lube places call fuel induction, albeit a little more crude in method, but it WILL clean deposits from the heads and pistons, and it won't cost you a hundred bucks either.

    I bought a pint of fuel system cleaner and ran it through a vacuum line that fed directly into the intake manifold, (I used STP, but I think anything will work.)

    If you decide to try this, here's the tricks-

    I started with a cold engine, and used the vacuum hose that feeds the cruise control servo. It may be a good idea to buy a couple of feet of cheap hose to get you away from the exhaust manifold. Anything spilled on it will catch fire. Pinch the hose closed and stick it in the bottle.

    Slowly unpinch the hose and let the engine suck in the cleaner. Let it suck until it starts to bog down the idle, then pinch the hose and let it smooth out. You may need to rev it a little bit to keep the RPM"s up, but don't overdo it. If you let it take too much you could hydrolock the motor. When the bottle is empty, plug the vacuum line and let her idle for about 10 minutes, and you're done.

    THE SMOKE WILL BE EXTREME! Stay downwind from the tailpipe. Don't even think about doing this in a garage without some way to vent the exhaust out. You'll get tons of blue-white smoke until the cleaner burns out. It'll be the worst exhaust you've ever seen. Relax, it's just the detergents doing their job.

    Hope this helps"ya--it did wonders for me.
  • woobwoob Posts: 1
    my 95 ranger xlt, PURPLE TRUCK (for my wife), is not working right. PLEASE help as soon as possiable. My mechanic is patiently waiting to charge me for all the repair work........my directionals do not work. The fuses are fine and the battery is new. Everything else works great!
  • I have a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Super Cab 4X4, just bought it, great condition, couldn't believe it but when I take off the rear differential. rocks. I have checked the U-bolts and all are tight. Differential rock's about two inches upward. I have checked for recalls or other fixes, found nothing. Got any ideas?
  • 1. Use a timing light; be sure that you are getting spark to all cylinders; only one side in this case.

    2. Check ALL of your vacuum lines; in fact, you might simply plug all the lines at the engine at least to see if this the problem. The brake vacuum booster could be the problem, be sure to check it, and the vacuum line to it.

    3. Be sure that there are no leaks in your air feed line past the airflow sensor, if fuel injected; if not be sure that there are no vacuum leaks past the throttle body or carburetor. With the engine running, spray some sort of fuel at possible leaky areas; if you hit a leaky spot with the fuel, the engine should smooth out; you will have found the leaky area. Carb cleaner will do; it's flammable, be careful.

    4. Check cylinder compression; all cylinders should within a few PSI of each other. If not, you need a valve job, at best, or an overhaul or rebuild.

    5. The EGR valve might not be functioning properly, or EGR passages may be plugged; if so, the intake manifold will probably have to be removed and scraped out, or otherwise cleaned.

    6. If there is a possibility that vacuum lines could have been incorrectly installed, be sure that they are in the right place. (This one should have been no. 1 or 2)

    7. It is extremely unlikely, but you might have one or two exhaust ports, or intake ports plugged, or partly plugged.

    I hope that this helps; it comes from many years of figting problems.
  • This is a P.S.

    If the unit is port injected, one or more injectors might be malfunctioning; plugged or partially plugged, or not getting the electrical impulse to fire it/them. You might try a shot of a good injector cleaner. (Berrymans is good, there are others.), also, check the wiring and connections to the injectors.
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