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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • tfitchtfitch Posts: 3
    i am getting this weird whirring sound. its a 97 3.0 auto 2wd 128K.
    The sound seems to be centered in the truck -like the tranny but its hard to tell. It doesn't change when the truck shifts gears but it does change with speed (higher as I go faster etc). It doesn't matter if I am under power or coasting. Above 45 it goes away and sometimes it seems to go away for days. I changed the bearings an front discs myself 6 months ago. I was very careful with the grease etc. and I don't "feel" anything from any of the corners. Any educated guesses? I checked the tranny fluid it looks fine. I never checked the rear though.
  • rangmarvrangmarv Posts: 1
    Have you found a solution to your break problem? I am having the same problem with a 99 Ranger. Would love to hear your solution.

  • fmc12fmc12 Posts: 7
    i have read several posts about dome light staying 95 did this and it was traced to a light module.the module is easy to get to after you remove the is silver in color.don't know about cost ,it was warranty.
  • i have an 88 2.9 4x4 ranger, 5 spd. I have been having the following problem for a while. In wet weather or when i go fast through puddles it starts to go through spells. Usually when this happens i can put the pedal to the floor or lightly touch the pedal and it will run as normal but anything in between makes it bog out; as if i lost all spark or fuel. This problem usually goes away shortly after when it dries off a bit. A couple days ago it was really wet out and it started the problem again, but this time anything more than approx. a quarter throttle and it cuts out and the problem has not gone away yet although i am expecting it to.
    Has anyone experienced this problem or know what it might me?
    Any input would be appreciated.
  • I have a 1994 Ford Ranger and the wiring harness for the O2 Sensor has melted... :( I have the new O2 sensor and everything but i was just going to splice the wires together to hook it up, but i can't find any diagrams or anything directing me on which wire from where the harness was would go to which wire on the O2 sensor. if you know where i can find a diagram or something of the sorts let me know... or if you know another better way of doing it. thanks
  • siasia Posts: 3
    Personally I would just get the whole harness and replace it, because if you splice the wire you can't be completly sure that it will carry the voltage the same as the unspliced wire would especially over time with water and debris getting into the connector, but if your set on doing it you should find a diagram in a repair manual(either home mechanic one or the shop one) and be very careful to waterproof it.

    P.S. for a cheap shop manual I have found that instead of paying 116 bucks for one check out thrift stores or used book stores the last shop manual I got at a thrift was 2 dollors/ but if you live in tucson don't try it till I find one for my new truck;)
  • siasia Posts: 3
    Well I just bought my first Ford ever, and I have to say that I like it more by the minute, It's a 2002 Ford ranger super cab 3.0L 2WD, and yes it has its issues but hey every thing does or we would never be on this website,

    !. My door switch does that stupid staying on thing but I figured it out I think, I saw someone mention it happens when it's cold, have you noticed if your windows is all the way up it does it? the air pressure of slamming the door pushes the weather stripping out and it rests inward too much( which the design is a little off since it will happen all the time when the weather strip wears down)

    2. My air conditioner compressor stays on no matter what position the switch is in which sucks when you want heat but don't want to have that bad of miliage especially when I drive 100 miles a day.
    I have yet to figure out the A/C problem so if anyone knows than let me know or when I find out I will post it.

    And I will end this with a note

    nothing ever "blows up" instantly, in a hour, or usually even a week so once a week drive your vehicle 10 miles with no music on a quiet road and listen to it, and just for extra caution do a 10 min inspection for leaks and such at the drivetrain (pay attention to the rear differitial I see so many trucks leaking back there while I drive around and I see alot of damage because of that) it won't kill anyone to spend 30 min of TV time on your truck instead.
    And most of all we all want to just jump into a new vehicle drive it 200,000 miles and abuse it without ever thinking about it but that never works for anything, So don't hate your truck because you slacked and it broke down just be happy you don't still drive your mom's Pinto ;)
  • siasia Posts: 3
    Why bother wondering what the whistle is? the tranny is blown and needs to be rebuilt regardless. but just for kicks, what might sound like a whistle could be air sucking into the the vacuum line going to the modulator valve, that can actually cause the tranny to act up real bad, but thats something that is some thing you have to hear for yourself to know what the sound is, And next time you want to go off road don't go with an automatic, they really are not designed for it.

  • darxxxdarxxx Posts: 4
    I have a '95 Ranger, which I purchased new, and now has 230,000kms on it. The check engine light has been on since around 85,000kms. The dealer said it was a defective emissions sensor and would not cause a breakdown. I never did get the part replaced (I kept putting it off), and have never had a problem with the engine. I know that is not the proper thing to do, but it's still running strong, although I do have some strange heater/lighting problems going on that I'm going to have to start a discussion about.
  • darxxxdarxxx Posts: 4
    The heater's fan control switch (rheostat?) would only work on the highest setting. When I switched it on yesterday, something shorted out and I lost my headlights and instrument panel lights....weird. With the heater turned off, the park lights work, but when I turn on my headlights the dash lights go out again. As I turn up my fan control the lights get dimmer. Anybody ever experience something as strange as this?? I wonder if I removed the fuse for the heater altogether, would the lights return to normal, and would replacing the switch fix the problem? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
  • cj091184cj091184 Posts: 2
    :confuse: my 1990 for ranger has the 2.3 with the 8 plugs, it just had a tune up, and has been running great. The other day I got off of the freeway and as I applied the brake to stop at the light my engine kinda bogged down and stalled out. Now I can start it in park and neutral and it will idle just fine and you can rev the engine to a higher rpm, and a side note the brakes are fine to. Every time that I shift into gear it stalls, even if I hold the brake, it just kinda jumps and cuts out, it sounds more like shutting down than stalling. it is automatic and it stalls in reverse to. I tested with a comp. and returned nothing. any input would be great, thank you for your time
  • mtbicklemtbickle Posts: 1
    I have a 94 ranger that needs to be jump started to get running. My other car is in the shop and I need the vehicle to get to work. Unfortunately when I tried to open the hood and pulled the release it didn't work. I can pull as hard as I want and don't hear that familiar click. Is there a way to easily get the hood open without the inside the cab release?


  • cj091184cj091184 Posts: 2
    if you look under the front bumper, behind the grill of the truck, you can reach up there with a screwdriver and pop the latch over. thats how I open my pontiac.
  • ppborcebppborceb Posts: 59
    Does anybody know what happened to smoothop1 or the vibration problem that he had?
  • I just recently purchased a 1994 Ford Ranger from someone, and was planning on working on it. The dash is starting to seperate a little, and I wanted to basically change it out.

    What I'm wondering is, is it possible and if so, can you swap the dash with one from a newer Ranger, or from an Explorer? I want to give the truck a newer look, and want to see if anybody thinks its possible, and if so, which one matches to the mounting brackets of the Ranger? :confuse:

    Also, when you do that, how hard is it to change it from manual air and heat, to powered? I am making the windows powered, and just want to see how hard it is to change the air and heat to powered.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Based on your description, it sounds like low fuel pressure. I would have that tested, go from there.
  • Im having this problem too on my 90 Ranger XLT 4.0 L. It just started today, its whines when I let go of the gas or when I apply the break, I kindda want to catch this problem early. Thanx
  • ogreogre Posts: 4
    I don't know for sure about fords since this crappy 93 ranger is my first, but I had an older chevy that did the same thing every now and then. I ended up buying some electronics cleaner that would displace moisture and leave a thin film on everything as a barrier. I live in fla. and at times the humidity alone would be enough to make it want to act up. It's worth a try. Just make sure that anything you use is plastic safe and give it a little time to dry before plugging things back in.
  • ogreogre Posts: 4
    I've got a 93 ranger thats giving me a fit. I've ran code scans on it and get back 121,122. I think there both refering to the coils and or ignition, but the books I have don't really give a very good explanation. It acts odd when it first starts up before it has a chance to warm up, then it'll smooth out except for the occasinal hiccup going down the road or that it feels like it's being chocked out. It has a fairly new fuel filter, one of the coils is new, ignition module. Any ideas?
  • The other day I was driving to work and started smelling something but I thought
    it was coming from the outside. Then my cab started filling with smoke. I quickly
    jumped the curb (no shoulder) up on a sidewalk, jumped out, raised the hood expecting flames to be coming from my engine compartment but nothing. I got back in my truck letting it air out and feeling for warm spots on the dash but nothing. I cranked the engine and everything was working fine. A couple of days latter on a warm day I jumped in my truck and turned on the AC only to fine none of the lower speeds on my fan would work, only the highest speed works. My question is what part do I need to get to get my fan speeds working and where is the part located. Thanks, Bob :confuse:
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