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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • If your truck has a MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR the oil from the K&N coats little tiny wires in it with the oil from the K&N and the very small particals of dirt stick to it and all hell breaks loose car runs like crap K&N's really only work well with mechanical MASS AIR FLOW SENSORS. K&N's are sometimes more trouble and costly in the future than there worth.
  • look for the power distrbution box near the battery and check out the fuel pump relay. just a guess
  • A 94 Ranger 2WD manual with 4.0 U.S. The truck starts in the morn fine run all day but if you turn it off it will not start NO SPARK till next day basically. I pulled the computer, ignition module but not the pick up sensor. Aldata only refers to a update on the Ign mod plug. Anyone had this problem before?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    'none of the lower speeds on my fan would work'

    Your 'resistor' pack has burned up. This sometimes happens. I can't give you exact location, but it's under the hood, right side, on the firewall. There is the box where the blower sits. You should find some kind of little box with wires into it.

    I would just buy a new one (95% sure this is the problem), the aftermarket stores should have one of these, then look for something that looks like this on the fan box under the hood.....
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    121 ³ Closed throttle voltage higher or lower than expected ³
    121 ³ Indicates throttle position voltage inconsistant with the MAF sensor

    122 ³ Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuit below minimum voltage

    Looks like a TPS problem to me....... This is usually on the throttle linkage at the throttle body. It tells the computer if throttle is closed, how far open, etc.
  • jorgev7jorgev7 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Ranger 2.3L 5 Speed, when pressing the clutch pedal to shift into 1st gear I can hear and feel the clutch engaging as well as when shifting from 3rd to 4th gears it sound as if universal joints were loose. I've taking the truck to the dealer 3 times and they claim not to find any problems. Anyone had this problem before? and is there a clutch master cylinder on this truck?
    I appreciate the help.
  • darxxxdarxxx Posts: 4
    See post # 1143...that's me. I lost all lower speeds on my heater controls (no A/C) and when I turned my heater on last week my lights started doing weird things. Do you think the same thing is wrong with my '95 Ranger? I thought it was the actual fan speed switch crapping out. Can I test the resistor pack?..I am an electronic technician and can use a multi-meter easily if I knew what to look for. Do you think the rsistor pack failure would affect my lights?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    When you lose the lower speeds, but the high speed on a blower fan still works, it's almost always the resister pack. The blower is actually only a single speed motor, the lower speeds are obtained by dropping some of the voltage through the resistor pack. The high speed bypasses the resistors totally, so it still works.

    I don't know about the lights being affected. But anytime you have electrical things 'burning up', it will cause surges, which probably can be seen as flickers of the lights.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I don't have any idea about what your are 'hear and feel'ing, but manual transmission Rangers for many years have hydralic clutches. They have what I've been told is a 'slave' cylinder near the clutch itself. And are very difficult to correctly bleed.
  • darxxxdarxxx Posts: 4
    Thanks for the tips. I'm going to check out the resistor pack as soon as the weather warms up a little...we still have some snow on the ground here in Pasadena, Newfoundland.
  • Ok guys, Here are some answers to a few questions from my experience in my shop. The problem with the lights inside staying on and the door light staying on are in deed caused by the door switch. Although usually on the driver side, the passenger side will do it in a heart beat too. Even though it is a very, very common problem, Ford has not done a recall on them yet. Unfortunately there is no adjustment and you can't, as some one said, ram a screw into the end as it is located in the door in the latch itself. You can replace it, however as I mentioned, it is built into the latch so it requires removing the entire latch assembly and drilling out the rivets that hold it into place. Honestly even though it is not the correct fix we recommend around the shop, the easiest fix is to remove the door panel and unhook the two wire plug at the bottom of the latch. We usually charge about $15.00 to do it for the customer and they usually opt for that over buying the high priced part from the dealer, paying the 75.00 labor to replace it here and hoping it doesn't happen to the new one. After all, Ford made that one too and they have not redesigned them yet. Also for the guy who put the screw into the end of the Intrepid, glen it worked for you but that was risky since most pin switches are made of plastic and there is about 1/16th of an inch separating the positive wire from ground. Not putting anyone down, just saying. Also as far as the mpg problem. They get what they get and don't usually seem to really "break in" until about 20-25,000 miles! A tonneau cover may gain 1-2 mpg but keep in mind, putting your tailgate down will do the same thing which is reduce air resistance and the cool thing is you don't add the 100-150lbs of the tonneau (fiberglass ones that is, 25-40lbs for the soft ones. Hope that helped some one and please email me if you have more questions about these topics. p.s., I always thought the 4wd rangers where loud and rough riding and sloppy, but then again its a 4wd mini truck.
  • jorgev7jorgev7 Posts: 2
    Thanks bolivar, I "found" the clutch slave cylinder, I'm planning to replace the clutch assy. not only because of the noise but because it slips every now and then when taking off. Unfortunately the dealer does not want to hear about it.
  • pjamapjama Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I've just read through all of the posts here, starting with #1, and have only found, I think, 3 that seem to describe the problem I'm experiencing - all 3 with no replies! The problem is that, when I would push in the clutch, the RPMs would go up to 4000 +, then when I put it in gear and let the clutch out, it would go down. I took the truck to a trusted mechanic and he said that the computer needed to be reprogrammed but that only a dealer could do this because Ford has the independent guys locked out. The TSB he cited was 98-26-8. I took it to the Ford dealer and requested that they do the reprogramming as per the TSB and now it's only revving up to 3000 RPMs. When I asked the guy at the dealership why it was still revving up, he said that sometimes it takes a while for it to re-learn everything after the reprogramming. Does anybody know anything about this?? Your wisdom would be greatly appreciated!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I don't know.....

    If a computer was causing that high an idle, I think I would report it to the Nat Highway Safety Admin as a safety hazard.... Also check on there for the same complaint...

    I would double and triple check that there is not some kind of throttle linkage problem. Something binding, etc. Sticking throttle butterfly valve. Bad Idle Control Valve (I've heard of them causing surging, but nothing this high).

    Wild thing to check - Rangers of early 90 had brake boosters breaking off firewall because of rust. Other Fords I've heard of having brake or clutch brackets on firewall breaking, or firewall itself pushing through - maybe something in clutch linkage is really messed up and binding throttle cable????
  • I have a 93 Ranger 2.0L 5 speed manual...I am hearing a rattle almost like the fan is hitting the shroud when I speed up. I have checked the fan and shroud and verified that this is not the problem. Any thoughts on what the problem might be? I have 140k miles on this baby without any real problems.

    Also what can one do to extend the life of this truck so that it can last another 5 yrs. :confuse:
  • ogreogre Posts: 4
    In my 93 ranger I've had a "knocking" sound thats started recently. At idle it's fairly noticable, but when it gets the RPMs up a little it seems to go away. I crawled under it and I suspect it's the front main seal and or bearing going bad. The main pully has a wobble to it a at idle, but when the engine revs up it seems to pull it back straight again. It looks like the casing wouldn't be hard to get into, but I'd really like to know if theres anyone thats done this and could tell me about any pitfalls that go along with it.
  • dper299dper299 Posts: 19
    I have a 98 ranger 4x4 xlt extended cab (100343 miles).The problem I am having is what the dealership says is driveshaft binding,and claims it is common for this year It is not all the time but enough to be a concern when I accelerate.The dealer claims the only fix is a new aluminum driveshaft.Has anyone had this problem and fixed it?Any suggestions..thanks
  • pizzaspizzas Posts: 2
    OK, here we go. I think I finally got my Ranger running correctly. My tranny shop trouble shot the hestitation when accelerating. He changed the 2-3 (?)servo on the outside of the transmission right next to the catalitic converter. Upon examination this thing was rock hard and had a small hole in it (its made of rubber). Being in Phoenix and the cool summer temps along with the freeway driving and 115,000 miles it got "cooked". So far, after 2 weeks and almost 500 miles I haven't had anymore problems. For a 2.3 she flies along @ 75mph all day long.
    And as far as my dome light and door ajar light staying on for hours, I followed a suggestion I saw in this fourm. I purchased a can of PB Blaster from Autozone and sprayed both my door locks real good. Haven't had a problem yet (pretty good stuff).
    Now for another problem I need help with. I just changed my heater control valve. Now it seems like the heater door doesn't close right away. Did I do something wrong? It's only 4 water lines and a vacuum hose.I KNOW for sure everything worked properly before I changed this valve, now the heater system is "screwed-up". after about 20 minutes the the door closes and everything turns off as it should. When you select A/C , MAX A/C and the other vent thing, it blows out the floor and defrost vent for a while then out the A/C duct as it should.
    Thanks Alot - :mad:
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    I purchased a 2001 Ford Ranger XLT SuperCab in December of '03. Its an automatic V6, 4.0L, SOHC engine. I love the truck and how it drives, when it drives. I have recently ran into a problem that two different dealerships in four visits have still not been able to tackle.

    While driving the truck it will start to sputter, you will then lose your speedometer, then the truck slips itself into neutral. It is still running, but just slips into neutral. Then the overdrive light and ABS lights on the dash begin to flash at 100mph. You simply coast off the side of the road, turn it off, let it sit for about a minute or two and start it back up and you are good to go for another 2 days or so, sometimes less, before it happens again.

    I've been told that a wiring harness can do this under the drivers seat if corroded, but both dealerships (very reputable ones) have found nothing. I paid $200 plus labor b/c they thought it might be the alternator overcharging, but happened again after I had the truck for only 3hrs. The only thing I can get from them is that all of the codes read high voltage.

    Anyone have a clue? Email me at kimble989@frontiernet.net if you do. I cannot afford to be without a vehicle for a fifth trip into the dealer for 1-2 wks.
    Thanks,
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    For everyone out there with a Ranger extended cab having problems with door ajar problems....

    I talked with a good friend of mine that works for a ford dealership. He said the first thing they try is to just lubricate the latch on the third or fourth door with WD-40 and open and close the door several times. It seems to have done the trick with mine after fighting it for about 2 weeks or so. I don't know if this will work on yours but it is quite cheaper than a dealer working on it. Supposedly it is the contacts that corrode easily and need to be worked back in for good connection.

    Thanks,
    kimble989
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