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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gunchgunch Posts: 1
    The first time I start the truck each day, I hear a muffled sound I would compare to a small door shutting rapidly, possibly on something just below the floor board or in the engine compartment near the firewall. A mechanic I know says that it may have something to do with the vaccuum system shutting a climate control door of some kind. Anybody familiar with this?
  • Hi Everyone, New member here!!!

    I bought a 2005 Ranger (4x4 Ext Cab 4.0 Automatic) in June. I haven't really got any kind of decent mileage with the truck but im still breaking it in, so I can understand. In the past month, though, the mileage has dropped off significantly (3-4 MPG). I was wandering if anyone else has experienced this or if anyone knows what might cause such a fall off
  • jefferygjefferyg Posts: 418
    If you have recently had the oil changed that could have something to do with it. We have an 04 Mercury Moutaineer with the 4.0. I took it to the shop and had the oil changed at around 10,000 miles and they put 10W30 in it though the engine calls for 5W30. I noticed in the weeks after that the fuel mileage was down about 1.5 mpg per the trip computer. At 13,500 miles I changed it again this time going back to the specified oil. 500 miles later we are back to what we were getting.
  • I have have an increasing problem with my 1984 ranger. It`s a 2.8ltr.with a 2brl. carb.It will not start when the weather is cool and rainy, but if the motor is good and hot it has no problem.When it cools down it becomes increasingly harder to start until it won`t start anymore.Coud it be a sensor or choke problem or what could it be? I need some ideas to start checking on.
  • Yep I sure did fill up the day before it started running crappy. But it was at a station I normally get gas at. Crazy!! Thanks for the words of advice.
  • Since the mornings have turned cold, 35-50 deg, my 92 Ranger, 3.0, 5 spd manual, 2 wd, 22/25 mpg, 289000 miles, runs rough at start and stays rough for 10/20 minutes, then smooths out (gradually, not all of a sudden) and all is back to normal. Even starts later in the day, 4 hours or so, are OK. The colder the morning, the rougher the run. Starting hasn't changed, still starts fine, just runs rough at start. Until the mornings turned cold, it's been starting and running fine. Any ideas, suggestions, comments any one would like to offer about what may be causing this morning sickness and any possible corrective actions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, K.
  • motzmotz Posts: 1
    I've got a 94 Ranger and recently by brake lights have stopped working, but the top/middle light on the cab still works.
    I've checked around this forum and it seems like it could be the brakelight switch but I don't think it is because the top/middle still works.
    All my other lights (signals, reverse, headlights and tail lights) are still working, so I don't think it is the fuse.
    Any ideas?
  • had to replace my oxygen sensor on my 1998 ranger XLT and i can't get the check engine light to go off. Took the battery cable loose and it went off but came back on after a few miles. Had a person at Auto Zone tell me that I had to give the computer time to recognize the new part then the light would go off. is this true or am I going to have to take it to the Ford place to get it checked out? The old one got jerked out when barbed wire got wrapped around it. Thanks for any help
  • My thanks to everyone for the input on this subject. I was thinking I was going to be soaked silly getting all those error lights and transmission problems resolved. I went to my transmission shop, warranty in hand, and he was impressed with the info in this forum. Total repair cost was $85 bucks. Thanks again.
    Hank
  • gangigangi Posts: 1
    hi, this is gangi. u know any one who can help me out in finding the speed sensor wire on my ford crown victoria . 1994.
    u have any idea?? i am in desperate situation.
  • hi everyone- i have a 1999 ford ranger 5 speed 2wd.. there is some kind of noise while driving that sounds like air comming out of a tire. It was doing it for a while, seemed to stop, but is now louder than ever. I have asked a few people about this before and their solution was that i was either in too low or high of a gear....i assure you this is not the problem (just because i am a girl does not mean i don't know how to shift) My truck sometimes bucks too...even when its in the right gear Also, the ABS light is on...i just got new breaks and it did not go off. I read that this may be because i got new tires or because i need to change the sensor or because i need to change the VSS???? Finally the spedometer 1st stopped working until 30mph and now it doesn't until 60mph??i heard this could also be the VSS......please help !
  • Ok i was trying to do test on my gem module and i could not get comunication and the dome light started flashing, what that means i don't know, but i do know it is going to need a new gem module,
    but ever scince then the truck runs fine.
    Whith your truck, the 4x4 controls come from the gem module so that might be the problem, if you have a good mechanic take it to him and have him put the scanner on it. if he can't, write me back and i will give you directions.Good luck and let me know what happens.
    Cheers, Brian
  • jrumnjrumn Posts: 1
    Dont know if you have found out whats going on yet or not!
    I have run in to this a few times, you might want to check in to the turn signal switch! You see the standard brake lights run through the turn signal switch, this is how it splits up the bulbs for the turn signals in the rear. Which in turn there is a separate signal sent back to the (center High Mount stop lamp) from the brake light switch.
    So if the circuit in the turn signal goes out, the standard brake lights will be inop, But the high mount will still work!
    And Yes,
    If this does happen the turn signals will still work, Two different circuits!
  • The speed sensor wire on most Fords are usually on the Tranny at the side near the bottom, whether it be RWD or FWD. If it is FWD the wire may be near the CV Joint at the wheel. I would check the brake hub 1st for any wires connecting to it. Then trace the drive train to the engine. Be careful, there is more than one sensor on the drive train (1 for mechanical; 1 for tranny fluid; 1 for tranny oil(manual shifts have self sustaining oil in the tranny).
    The self-sustaining oil can get old and whatever therefore has to be checked periodically(every 5 to 8 yrs).
    Follow the wires to see where it goes. if theres any wires that go directly to the dash from the drive train chances are thats the one your looking for. If your speedo is digital the the wire goes to a computer brain or to a breaker box under the hood. Check the manuel for any fuse/breaker/microchip that works the speedometer.
  • My Tach light had burned out, and half of my lights were black, so i replaced the bulbs, and the work fine now. But No there is a beeping, Im assuming that it is because I took the gauges out, but how do i reset that? does anyone know or should i just take it to the dealer?

    Thanks
  • I NEED HELP LOCATING THE FELT AROUND THE WINDOW,FOR PASSENGER AND DRIVERS SIDE,ALSO NEED THE RUBBER WHERE THE WINDOW GOES INTO THE DOOR. FOR 1988 FORD RANGER 4X2, 2DOOR.
  • My 17 year old was in a minor accident. His Airbag went off and now we can't get the truck to start. Nothing, no lights , no turnover. Does any one know where the switch is to reset the system? The damage appears to be to the bumper and turn lights only. Please help. Thanx Kathleen
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I have a 1994 Ranger, and it does not have airbags. You must have a later model.

    Anyway, for my 94, the fuel pump collision reset is inside, above/at the top of/slightly behind the carpet, on the right side of the driveline tunnel. There is a box with a button on the top that needs to be pushed.

    I just read your message again.
    No light. No turnover.
    This doesn't indicate just the fuel pump is deactivated (although it might have been). If this is deactivated, the lights would work, the motor should crank over, it just will not start because the fuel pump does not pump fuel.

    You've lost the battery somehow. It may have broken a battery post off, broken a cable, or something like that.

    Sometimes 'minor' accidents can cause much more damage than imagined.
  • I have a 1991 Ford Ranger, 2.3L engine, 230,000 miles (90,000 on engine).

    Anyhow, at certain times the rpm's will drop down and it will develop a serious miss. It sounds like a lawn mower going down the road.

    For instance, lets say im goin 55 mph in 5th gear.which is usually around or below 3,000 rpm's. All the sudden the rpms will drop down to 1500, and it will start putting along. Then the tach will go up again and it will start running properely.

    I have changed the fuel filter, all 8 plugs, plug wires, fuel pump.

    I have been told that bad fuel could cause this, but it is happening too much to be bad fuel. Am I losing a coil pack? There is a exhaust leak on the manifold, could this be letting cold air into the engine?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have the 4.0 engine, 5 speed stick, 4 wheel drive. My factory cruise control worked intermittently last year, and this year it has been completely dead. No signs of a bad fuse. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I'm not absolutely sure, but I think the cruise is driven from the ABS sensor in the rear differential.

    It should be throwing some codes if the sensor is bad. Is your check engine light on?
  • No, check engine light is not on.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    On second thought, the cruise is probably driven by a sensor that goes into the transmission, it's part of the cable that goes into there. If there are two wires where the cable goes into the transmission, that's it.

    Anyway, I'm not sure I would 'throw parts' at this problem. This might need to be something a comptenet mechanic needs to check out.
  • herehere Posts: 2
    sometimes my 4 wheeldrive indicater lights come on when truck is started and go off when truck is put in gear, and somtimes they dont come on at all. Transfer case is not being activated! I tested the button on the Moduale behind the seat, it flashed 4 times showing its good! I jacked it up seeing that front differential works by turning drive shaft.
    Anyone had this problem or got any ideals what to check? Anyone know where to go from checking the dash swithes on through the system?
  • I am having the same problem. I have not only replaced the O2 sensors but the mass air flow sensor,the fuel flow regulator and 2 fuel filters. My problem came about due to bad fuel that caused me to replace the injectors. Needless to say I have spent a lot on this problem and I still have the darn light on. I have checked the codes on the engine diagnostics and they always come back as lean bank 1 and lean bank 2. Any help would be appreciated.
  • krodkrod Posts: 2
    I have a High RPM problem when my clutch is engaged it hangs at a high idle. The truck seems to run normal though after clutch is left out. Can any one help
  • krodkrod Posts: 2
    94 Ford Ranger 3.0L. I have a High RPM problem when my clutch is engaged it hangs at a high idle. The truck seems to run normal though after clutch is left out. Can any one help????
  • what will happen if i remove my entire exhaust?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I've seen the solution to this problem, and on this site I think, but I don't remember what it was......

    Can someone else remember? I know this has been covered on here.
  • 2vs2vs Posts: 6
    Sorry if this was addressed in the past but I am new to this discussion. I have a very low mileage 1994 Ranger 4Cyl and the gas gauge just stopped working (needle doesn't move from empty). Is this a common problem? Any experience out there? Thanks for any help.
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