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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • pattystacepattystace Posts: 2
    Hi All. I hope one of you gurus can give me a little counseling. The techs at the shop working on my Ranger have been uable to successfully bleed the slave cylinder (I was told they have been working on bleeding it for an hour). They have concluded that in order to bleed the slave they must first install a new master cylinder. Any advice? THANKS!
  • hiburghiburg Posts: 2
    Pjama,

    I have a 93 Ford Ranger and have the same problem. It wants to idle at about 2500 RPM as soon as I disengage the clutch. The codes tell me that the temperature sensor is bad. My guess is that the computer is getting a signal from the temperature sensor telling it that the engine is cold and the computer therefor richens the mixture provided by the injectors thus making the engine idle fast. Now and then there are times when the engine idles fine but they are very intermittant. Tomorrow I replace the temperature sensor and will see if the fix is in. If not, I will continue the search.
    hiburg
  • hiburghiburg Posts: 2
    I have a 93 4.0 Ranger and had a [non-permissible content removed] of a time bleeding the unit. The air was in the master cylinder. It (master cyl) must be totally full and this is hard once it has been drained. It is one of the Ford's NOT BETTER IDEAS. It took me 4 hours to bleed this sucker once I replace the clutch master. There was nothing wrong with the slave. By the way I need a new clutch master again after about 10,000 miles - it won't hold pressure on the slave. This time I will go directly to Ford for the part - last time was a NAPA part.
  • rbookrbook Posts: 2
    Kimble,

    I have the exact same truck and it started acting up just like yours yesterday. I am going to change the speed sensor in it today and if it still acts up it will be going to the shop. If you find out what the problem is please post it.

    Thanks,
    rbook
  • cseniorcsenior Posts: 1
    The truck has 100 K and seems to be in good cond. What preventive maintence repairs should be thinking about doing? Ex. Timing belt ? ...Etc.

    Thanks,

    C Senior
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    rocky8 go read my opost #1173 it has a web site to read about the problem. It is more of a problem with the 150's and it seems to be a big problem in FL where a TV station picked up on this and has lit a fire under the govnt's [non-permissible content removed] to get investigating it. It hadb been going on for a year or so. It has not been officially determined if the 97 thru 2002 Rangers are affected by this but if you feel insecure and it you have cruise control you can just go and disconnect the switch. Look on your master brake cylinder and just in front of the brake fluid container is a electrical component. Just unplug it and plug it back when you go driving. Apparently the switch gets 12v even when the engine is off. I measued voltage across the connector with eveything off. and after letting it sit all night and still plugged in I felt that the switch was very warm to the touch. You might want to clean up any road grime or fluids that might be on the switch as well.
  • brew1brew1 Posts: 1
    How do you fix the odometer and speedometer? My 92 Ranger (144,534 miles)has been having a few problems. It has been sitting for about a year. Now that I have it on the road again, the speedometer just broke. I just changed the fuel filter because the truck was not getting any power. The old filter had all kinds of stuff falling out of it. It ran fine this morning, however I can't tell how fast I am going. With my driving record I can't afford any more tickets. :shades:
  • maryjohmaryjoh Posts: 3
    i have a question.i'm not sure your reply was for me or not but my 95 ranger 2.3 has a problem. after i drive it to anywhere and i turn it off and come back out most of the time it won't start.i wait for a few hours or even a few minutes and then it'll start right up.do you have any idea's what it could be?

    thanks maryjoh
  • kepm123kepm123 Posts: 4
    Ok, first my fuel gauge is broken. It always shows Empty. When im driving at night the lights behind the rest of the panel are on, but not behind the gas gauge.
    Any ideas of how to fix this.

    Next, im getting a bunch of work done, like brakes (just the front), new belts, filters, sparkplugs, just regular tune up stuff. How much should that run.

    Then, the mechanic said the tranny has plugs that need to be replaced, (have read about the problem elsewhere) and he also said i should replace my clutch. It a 97 with like 125k. What should a price be on that.

    Thanks
  • Help!!!
    When driving my truck from time to time when stopped at an intersection I have the brakes all the way to the floor and the back tires spin and spin like in a bad cartoon....I have all I can do to hold it ....putting it in neutral has helped....when taking it to the dealer they say they took it for a spin and could not recreate this. It has happened 3 times and I am afraid to drive it .....I would be so happy if anyone out there can help me.
  • pattystacepattystace Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the shop won out and they replaced the master - they were insistant that was the problem even though there were no signs of leakage. I figure they are the experts. Here's the deal. They said "all fixed." I said "fabulous!" Picked-up my truck last night after hours and the clutch pedal now has about 4 inches of play at top end, feels sloppy, only fully engages when it's about 1" off the floor, and getting into first gear when you stop is difficult. They replaced: slave & master, installed a clutch kit (figured it was a good idea while they had it apart w/115K on the clutch). Now that can't be right, RIGHT? How were you finally able to get it bled properly? Desperate in Chicago for advice to get my wheels movin' again.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    Rbook,

    The truck is finally fixed. After 5 trips to 3 different dealerships. It was the PCM (power control module). The part is located in the engine right up against the firewall on the passenger side. Black box about 5" long or so and 2" or so wide.

    It is the computer of the truck as far as I could understand it. Want the really good news....it is covered for 8yrs through ford whether you have an extended warranty or not. Sad news is I paid one dealership $420 for labor and an alternator that I didn't need. They though it was sending spikes through the system. Now I'm arguing with them about getting some of my money back.

    But anyways, it is the PCM, covered under warranty. You will have to get a new key for your truck, which they provided me for free since they have the electronic chip built in them for theft purposes.

    Hope this helps.
    kimble989
  • cheimercheimer Posts: 1
    What color is the Accessory WireIn the audio system on my 2005 Ford Ranger...I'm putting in a system and can't get any help...anyone here know?
  • seldersselders Posts: 5
    The first thing you have to do is pull the cluster out of the dash and determine whats broke. If it's the cable then you can buy a replacement and fix it easy. The only other thing it can really be is in the speedo itself. It's all geared out in there to run the odometer, speed, and trip at one time. To test the gauge itself, once it's pulled out get a piece of wire or a small driver bit of some kind and a drill you'll see where it hooks in on the back. Run the drill and you'll see the gauge needle run up, Make sure you have the drill running the right way, or you'll run the numbers backwards. If the needle moves,then its the cable that needs to be replaced. Also when your taking out the cluster the speedo cable is usually held in place with a clip on the back that all you need to do is push in and the cable will slide out
  • seldersselders Posts: 5
    My 93' ranger sucks. O.K. heres the thing. It's a 2.3L, 5 speed manual. It's seems like the truck is being starved for fuel and/or not firing correctly. It starts fine, idles fine, but when I start to move it has power surges. 1st gear you can't really notice it, 2nd gear it's still not too bad because you run through it too fast. 3rd gear it's really noticeable at around 25 to 30 mph (no tach) it's kind of choppy on acceleration at 35mph it's like everything finally gets the idea and you can feel a surge of power. 4th gear it runs, but stays in that choppy feeling , just a lot of little bucking and jerking going down the road.5th gear is almost unheard of right now because at anything under 65 it wants to bog down and I have to drop back into 4th to keep up any speed. I've only had the truck about a year, but I know the guy that I bought it from did all the maintance on it and treated it well. Since I've owned it I've put a fuel filter on it, replaced one coil pack, ignition module, and had it to the shop a few times to get the codes ran and erased. It tells me now that that I have these codes
    218: loss of left side of IDM signal
    222: loss of right side of IDM signal
    223: loss of Duel Plug Inhibit control
    224: Primary circuit failure in coil 1,2,3 or 4
    My mechanic doesn't know what to do, because it won't "act up" for him
    Any ideas will help. :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • maryjohmaryjoh Posts: 3
    my wipers come on for no reason.my dome light will stay on after closing the door.eventually it will go off.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, it looks like these errors all relater to coil packs, ignition module, and their wiring. Is something disconnected? Bent pins in connectors? Something loose from the previous replacements?

    I think you need a new shop. When the truck is setting these codes, there are procedures to check for each code. A decent mechanic should be able to track down exactly what is causing your problems. It doesn't need to 'act up' with a mechanic, it is setting error codes. These tell what is going wrong. If you are paying someone to mess with this truck several times, it might be time to take it to a Ford place, someone that should be seeing these errors and fixing them, every day.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It would be very helpful if you would tell us the year, motor, and transmission of your truck.

    Wiper problems many times are the 'multi-control' switch. In other words, there is one switch for the stalk with the turn signals, wipers, cruise, etc. And it wears out. Inside the steering column.

    Dome light problems are also rampant with mid-90 models. The switch is inside the door, on the handle/lock mechanism. To really get to the switch, the door panel must be removed. Spray switch with electrical cleaner or replace it.
  • hciaffahciaffa Posts: 454
    This has been an ongoing problem with Rangers for eons OK at least since the early or mid 90's. These were some fixes that were posted back then that I saved for such instances.

    FOR THE PAHNTOM WIPER SWITCH THAT TURNS ITSELF ON BY ITSELF:
    The following is based on observation of my 1999 Ranger, other years may be different. I fixed the phantom windshield wipers myself, you can too. It turns out all you need to do is clean the switch up.To clean the switch does NOT require removing the turn signal from the steering column and takes about ten minutes.1. On the turn signal lever, remove the end cap with a small screwdriver.2. Remove the phillips screw located under the end cap.3. WATCH IT! there is a spring to push back against the wiper rotating knob. Hold in the wiper switch so it won't go flying.4. WATCH IT! again. When removing the wiper rotating switch there are two detents that are pressed against the inside of the knob (with another small spring pushing against each other) to give detents to the different levels of wiper delay when you rotate the knob.5. Inside you will see the switch wiper mounted to a white plastic piece that you can just pull out. It looks kind of weird with 4 arms and an elbow wiper coming out of it.6. After you pull out the switch wiper just gently clean everything inside, a sort of circuit board looking goodie with rings for the switch wiper to rotate on.I used a rag and a small (jewelers) screwdriver to clean the board inside and very carefully made sure the gaps between the traces were clean. There is quite a bit of grease in there.I reassembled the switch using lubriplate (it was handy) and it was very easy to disassemble and to reassemble.I have had no re-occurrence of the phantom windshield wiper and I don't miss it a bit.

    For the lights coming on and staying on and or the door ajar warning going on at the same time, the swithc is in the door below the door jamb. After taking the door panel off you can reach in and remove the switch or if you have small arms like me you can go in and spray eclectrical contac cleaner on the switch. Try this on the door latch firts to see if it will trickle down to the switch Some poeple don't recommend using wd40 as ti cn get gummy after ahwile and collect dirt. here is the item, posted along time ago to correct this ailment:
    First for some background. My drivers side failed which caused the dome light and the warning chime to remain on. This was fixed under warranty. A few days ago, the dome light was remaining on. Knowing what the culprit was and since the door chime wasn't going off, I knew it was the passenger side door. I first tried the standard fix...flooding the door latch with electrical contact cleaner. I'll take the time now to warn everyone, DO NOT USE WD-40. WD-40 has a tendency to gum up, when it dries, and causes problems with electronics (contacts). This did not solve the problem, so off I went to the Ford Parts counter. I purchased a replacement contact switch for $11.03 including tax. (Sorry, I don't have the part number handy but email me and I'll send it to you). The switch is nothing more then a pin switch which is activated by the latch hook when it rotates to the door open position. The switch is located on the bottom of the latch assembly inside of the door.
    TO REPAIR/REPLACE THE CONTACT SWITCH:
    Remove the door panel. My '95 required the removal of four screws. Two under the door pull, which is then removed by carefully prying the trim piece out of the locking tabs holding it onto the panel. One screw, holding the panel to the door, is exposed once the pull is removed and the fourth is located at the bottom of the panel (outside edge, carpeted area). Once the screws are removed, lift up the whole panel and remove it from the door. Next, carfully peel back the plastic vapor barrier, if you are careful and take your time it will peel back without tearing. Pull the barrier back far enough to provide adequate access to the door latch. Find the wire leading to the door latch. The wiring is attached to the infamous contact switch at the bottom of the latch. Remove the harness from the switch. It has a standard tabbed connector. Now grasp the switch and rotate it 90 degrees towards the outside of the door. The switch can now be removed from the bottom of the latch assembly.
    The latch as I said, is a simple pin switch. The plunger (contact pin) has a tendency to stick in the switch. This may be from the door latch lube running down into it and gumming it up. Anyway, it fails to extend and break the electrical contact, hence the dome light and/or chime doesn't cancel when the door closes.
    There are two courses of action once the switch is out. Clean the contact or replace it. Since I already had the new one I replaced it. However, after cleaning the old one with contact cleaner, alcohol, and then applying an electrical contact cleaner/lube, the switch functioned perfectly. This was place in the box for the replacement switch and stored for future use.
    Once the new/cleaned switch is replaced (reverse of removal), functionally check the operation. If all is well, reinstall the vapor barrier (I used 3M adhesive spray to enhance the existing adhesive along the edge of the barrier), then the door panel (don't forget to line up the lock pull at the top of the panel), reinstall the screw(s) and your done.
    Having done this, I can understand why the problem occurs. Flooding the latch with solvent may not properly reach the switch plunger and free it. A few minutes of very light mechanic work can possibly salvage a perfectly good switch and solve a lot of frustration
    Hope this info helps!
  • justingjusting Posts: 1
    My Ranger has a problem with the passenger door causing the interior light to stay on even when it is closed. Any suggestions???
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