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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • I read somewhere that I may need to purchase a motorcraft Idle Air Control Valve because it may be tuned specifically for my truck and one from Auto Zone my be tuned to fit many applications. This seems like it could be logical in that my problem is not to severe. Any opinions out there? I may try it. I just need to find out how much one cost.
  • I am rebuilding a 1985 2.8 liter V6 (Carb not fuel injected) I am looking for diagrams or photos which show how the alternator & air pump brackets mount to the timing gear cover
  • rudy8rudy8 Posts: 1
    My 1996 2WD Ranger 3.0l automatic transmission shift lever does not engage. Truck apparent remains in neutral. Any suggests as to what the problem might be?
  • Hi
    I have a 1995 ford ranger XLT, v6, automatic, 4L. I has 169,000 miles.
    Had transmission rebuilt last year.
    Problem is first thing in morning when i pull out the trans. slips and "spins" for 2 to 5 seconds then catches. It does it in the afternoon also. Only does it once maybe twice in morn. and in afternoon, then no problems rest of time.
    Took to local shop, of course would not repeat problem even sitting overnight. Mechanic said 1 band was too loose(I think the between 1 and 2nd)another too tight(3 and 4th) and adjusted them. Saw no other problems ,fluid good etc.
    Problem is still happening. Very annoying because I can not pull out if any vehicle is within 200yards.
    Any info would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • pbowpbow Posts: 1
    Bent the harmonic pulley trying to pull a balencer off a 93 ranger 6cyl . Any reason it's so stuck on? Is there a heavier duty puller on the market? My knuckle's hurt!!! :mad:
  • I've got a question. Has anyone had a problem with their 3.0 liter flex fuel engine clattering at speed, pulling trailers,going up hills ? Mine has been doing it since I bought the truck with 27,000 miles on it, and now with 98,000 it's sounding worse. I've tried injector flushing, high octane gas and it will still clatter. Just wondering if anyone had a solution to the problem.

    Chris
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,040
    If you mean "pinging" I(sounds like a chain dragging), you'd better get that checked out really quick if it's getting worse. If high octane fuel didn't cure it, there's either a lot of carbon buildup in the combustion chambers or you may have an engine timing problem or knock sensor problem.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • I am having a problem with my motor right now. I get a high pitch noise that i can feel vibrate in my air filter box and air intake hose. This noise comes and goes. When it starts i put in neutral it goes away, but as soon as i put it in drive it comes back. anyone have an idea what this might be? help would be great
    Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    3L's are well known to 'ping'. Even when new. But mid-grade or top-grade gas usually reduces or eliminates this. You might have something else wrong. On 4L's, if the lower intake bolts are loose, they will ping. I've never heard of this problem happening on 3L's, but you might see if these bolts are loose.

    Ford sometimes replaces the coil pack with one that is supposedly more powerful (or something). On many motors this doesn't help much. There is also a SPRUG connector, or something like this, that can be unplugged to help. This basically retards the timing, which also reduces power. (I don't know where this connector is at, can't help with doing this yourself.)
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You IAC (Idle Air Control) valve is causing this. It is a chrome and black canister, the diameter of a 35mm file canistor but longer, on the left side on the intake manifold. With a 2 wire connector going into it. This controls the idle RPM of the motor. If it is bad it can cause this hum/vibration. It will also cause the idle to 'surge' up and down.

    There are 2 bolts that hold this on. Be careful with the gasket behind it, do not mess it up. Remove the electric connector. This basically is an electrical solonoid valve that bleeds air into the intake manifold. The valve part gets clogged with carbon and gas gunk. It can be carefully cleaned with carb cleaner. DO NOT GET CLEANER INTO THE ELECTRICAL END OF THIS, it will eat up the coil and ruin it.

    If you don't want to try to clean it, aftermarket parts houses sell these. About $65 or so?
  • I have the same problem,im looking for euro/alteza taillights for 99 stepside and all/most say wont fit. Im curious to know what you found out
  • High octane fuel helps out some but you can still hear it.
    I've thought about the timing problem and talked to a ford dealer and they wont me to give them $70 to hook it up on their computer just to see if they have an update for the problem. Didn't think about the knock sensor though,, i'll have to check into that. Thanks for the ideas.
  • I've got the same problem, no solution. The 'richer fuel' suggestion never worked for mine. My truck had 68k on it, now has 148k, and it's only there when I'm pulling heavy loads, up hills or accelerating. IE - whenever the engine is pushed harder.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,040
    Well light "pinging" for abbreviated amounts of time isn't really harmful...what I caution folks about is heavy prolonged pinging that goes on most of the time or that is heavy WHILE the engine is working very hard. This can be dangerous, as the "ping" is actually the internal parts of your engine rattling around in there, under stress.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • The ping is actually pre-ignition. It happens when the cylinder and combustion portion of the head is very hot. When the timing and mixture is set correctly, the ping should go away. Ford sets the timing and mixture right at the point of a slight ping. This is the cleanest the engine will run. I had a pinging problem with my 1999 Ranger (3.0), you could just touch the throttle and hear a ping which turned into a full blown rattle. The Ford dealer said it was normal. Well it got worse and I took it back. They used a later program for the computer and it stopped. I still have the truck and it does not ping on regular gas under heavy load.
  • MY OD LIGHT WAS FLASHING IS THAT AN INDICATION THAT THERE IS ANOTHER PROBLEM?
  • My 99 2.5L 4 cyl ranger has been getting about 17 mpg average, so I had a friend diagnose the problem, and it was my O2 sensor. I was wondering how you can find out whch O2 sensor is the faulty one, and if I can fix it myself. I'm open to any sugestions, thanks.
  • :cry: :mad: I'm in the middle of replacing the drag link on a '94 4x4 4.0 and I stripped the nut on the adjusting sleeve. I am at wits end trying to figure out how to remove this bleeping nut. Any suggestions?
  • if it's the back brakes locking up your wheel cylinders may need replaced.
  • I have a problem with my rear brakes in the wintertime. It is still under warranty but I dont know if this would be covered. I had a problem last winter where the back brakes froze up after they got wet the night before and then the next morning, I couldn't get the back to move, had to put in 4 wheel drive, the back just dragged and wouldn't break loose. I finally threw hot water between the slots of the rims and gave it gas and it broke loose. It happened again this past month but broke free without throwing water on it. Has anyone had a problem with this or any suggestions? Thanks :confuse:
  • Hey wats up in new. I have a 2002 Ford RangerV6 3.0 with the edge package. Its an automatic and everytime it switches gears it jumps. Id also like to mod it slightly but not lift or lower it. Any suggestions??
  • I was driving down the highway yesterday and the truck just died eventually coasting to a stop. The timing belt is still in tact. All the electrical works (lights, directional, etc.) and the truck turns over fine but just won't start. Need help.
  • Hello fellow Ford Ranger Owners!! I have a 93 2.3 XL. I reacently changed the thermostat to try to ale the problem, but no dice, still no heat... Or very little heat. I tried the piece of cardboard infront of the radiator trick. brings the water temp up but still no heat.. Ok here is the kicker.. the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core get to hot to touch even with the heater selector nob on high :confuse: Is this a heater core problem.. Is it bad or just cloged?? Please help cause its real cold here!!! Thanks
  • dc5dc5 Posts: 1
    Scott, my transmission in my 2000 ranger (automatic) started slipping yesterday. It's currently in the garage needing replaced or rebuilt, and I've been looking for info online as to the cause. Here's one possible reason that may shed some light in your case too:

    According to reviews I've read, the wiring harness under the driver's seat is susceptible to corrosion. This wiring problem has caused ABS light problems, gauges, and other electrical mischief, and has been known to cause incorrect shifting of the transmission.

    I've been seeing the symptoms with the gauges and dashboard lights failing for a few years, and also my CD player will switch to the radio, turn on even while the car is off and parked (which caused my battery to die once while I was at work) but everytime I've had it into the Ford dealer, they "can't find a problem".

    This may explain my transmission problem. Yesterday on the way to the garage, I couldn't go over 30mph, and the engine would rev up when I pressed the gas, but go nowhere.

    Hope this info at least helps somewhat!
    --DC
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Are you sure the cold/hot control knob is working? Mine stopped working and it will not get cool.
  • Yes im sure, The blend door is working properly also..
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Ok, then go for the heater core.
  • thank you very much for the info about the wheel cylinders I will have them looked at.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    The heater cores are easy to replace on these models.

    The cover inside can just be unbolted. A few bolts around the edges, under the passenger dash area. Remove the hoses under the hood. Pull it out inside. The core doesn't have to come from Ford, aftermarket parts have them.

    Your 4cyl might have an off/on valve in one of the heater lines under the hood. Vacumn operated. Have you checked for this and it working? If there is one of these, and it is stuck closed, no water is going to circulate thru the core and no heat.
  • I knocked the mirror part out of my power mirror housing backing out of my garage!! It looks like everything is in tack but I can't seem to get it back in the right way. I put it in but it only adjusts sideways not up and down??? :confuse:
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