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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wthomas1wthomas1 Posts: 1
    My daughter is having the same problem with her '94 Ranger. I've thrown a little money at the problem with a new battery and then a new solenoid. It started twice with the new battery, nothing after that. Same thing with the solenoid. It now sits in my driveway, it only clicks with the turn of the key. Can you help?

    thanks, Wayne
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Bad battery cables or bad battery cable connections.

    The cables may be eaten up inside the insulation. Check carefully.

    Remove the ground cable at the block or whereever and clean the connection and reattach.
  • I have a '94 ranger 4x4 4.0L that is running rough, low gas mileage, hesitates on the throttle occasionally, and the check engine light stays on. I have checked the ECM codes and get a #539 (not sure off the top of my head what this one means) and a #214 (CID, Cylinder Identification failure). The oil is clean and full, i'm not losing coolant.

    The following things I have replaced or checked: O2 sensors, plugs, EGR vlv, plug wires, all 3 ignition coils, fuel filter, air filter.

    I drove from California to NY and the check engine light only came on when flooring it in 5th gear and would shut off when the pedal was depressed. Right around Chicago the light stayed on and the gas mileage dropped about 6 mpg. The engine used to sound like a smooth roar now sounds rough. I have also noticed a loss of power.

    If anyone could give suggestions as to what else to check I would greatly appreciate it.
  • I currently changed the fuel filter because the check engine light was on and it was jerking and hesitating when you are stopped at a red light when its in gear. I have no idea what it could be know. Check engine light is still on can some one help me?
  • tdranger94tdranger94 Posts: 2
    try www.partsrain.com i found them for 100.00 fit perfect on my 94
  • tdranger94tdranger94 Posts: 2
    i recently had break preoblems with my 94 ranger trhe abs light refused to go out!i tried midas brake shops they couldnt get it to go off!!iWENT TO DEALER AND THEM FOUND IT REPAIRED IT ALL FOR 400.00 ITS WAS called the RABS VALVE.ONLY FORD HAS IT! SADLY
  • carycary Posts: 1
    My 98 Ranger is un able to pass a smog check because the check engine light is on w/ a dtc code of p1450. Apparently this has something to do with Excessive Fuel Tank Vacuum. Any ideas as to quick fixes or how to get the light off?
  • hanksullyhanksully Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, and it's driving me nuts :mad: . Did you find a solution?
  • ranger_tranger_t Posts: 1
    The Mazda 2300 is a Ford Ranger for all intents.

    I purchased it about a month ago with 29.5K miles. I didn't notice at the time, but it seems to have a hesitation when cold (first 60 seconds of driving) at 2000 RPM's; Weird!

    It will happen in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd Gear (no opportunity to check 4th gear in the first minute of operation). Truck has the 5-spd tranny. Good truck for all else . .

    All replys appreciated!

    TG
  • My check engine light came on a few weeks ago and this jerking started up when ever you have it in gear (only when you aren't moving). It's been doing this for a while now. I changed the fuel filter in it thinking that was maybe the problem but it's still doing it. Not sure what to do next I don't wanna start to guess and pour a lot of money in it and is still not get fixed. Can anyone help me?
  • birdy1birdy1 Posts: 1
    Hi , Just bought a Ranger 2.3 automatic 2wd The lady said when she would drive it the speedometer would act up and it would like down shift /loose power, she would have to pull over and either turn engine off or if it quit she would disconnect the battery cables and re connect them and start the truck and go again She had just bought it also . She only drove it about 50 miles total . Didn"t have any money to fix it and I bought it. I drove it home about 5 miles and it drove fine ,but it did for her at first too , so I'm thinking that when it warms up or you get to a faster then 45/50 mph speed is when it happens . I was told it is probably a sensor ...I agree , but does anyone have a clue WHICH sensor? I cant afford to start replacing all of them I was told there are 3 sensors that it could be . Anyone with same problem ? PLEASE respond . Thanks in advance. Birdy1
  • mbsmithmbsmith Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Ford Ranger with 61500 miles on it. Three days ago on my way home from work I noticed the check engine light come on. It stayed on the entire way home, which is about 8 miles. The next morning when I went to work it didn't come on, nor on the way home that day. I didn't run the a/c this day because it wasn't needed. The day before when it did come on I had the a/c on. So, on the 3rd the check engine light didn't come on on the way to work but it did come on on the way home. I had the a/c on when it came on but this time it only stayed on half the way home. I haven't checked the codes yet, wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts before I do. Thanks
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I doubt if the A/C has anything to do with the CEL.

    Pull the codes.
  • dwstacydwstacy Posts: 1
    Try to find a station that carries E85 fuel. That is 85% ethanol alcohol made from corn. Depending on where you live you might save up to 60 cents a gallon!!!
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Sounds a lot like either a speed sensor on the rear end or an ABS speed sensor. Don't replace anything until it's diagnosed.
  • kimble989kimble989 Posts: 14
    I had the exact same problem with my '01 4.0L V6 Ranger! First replace the rear differential sensor. Look back a page or two in these comments and a gentlemen emailed me a reply on my ranger telling exactly where to find the sensor for replacing. Part only runs about $15. That however, didn't fix my truck. After taking it to the shop, the PCM had to be replaced. But...the good news is that Ford covers this for 8yrs under warranty whether you got an extended warranty or not. So check the sensor first, then the pcm. If it is the PCM the dealership or shop shouldn't charge your hardly anything as they can get it all covered under the warranty.
  • bradnjanbradnjan Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 1997 Ranger 3.0V6 auto with 70k miles. I needed the 7 ft bed to haul a motorcycle, so I got what I could find. The guy who owned it clearly had no clue as to preventative maintenance, so I've had lots of little things to do (belts, brake rotors, etc). The engine now has a squeak that seems to come from one or the other of the 2 idler pulleys. Is this a common problem? Do both generally need replacement at once? Is there any trick to replacing them? I ask because I am on the road with a motorhome and this is the only vehicle I have to get around. I don't want to start the replacement until I know what to expect, as I won't have a vehicle ro go get another part or tool. The Chilton book I got doesn't say anything about replacing these things. When I replaced the serpentine belt, I learned that the tensioner was really tight. If it is that tensioner pulley that squeaks, it seemed like it would take a lot of torque to take off the bolt...unless it is removed by turning counter-clockwise. I've never had to replace any idler pulley on any vehicle in the past, so I'm being cautious.
    Thanks for any help anyone can provide!!!
    Brad
  • pac3pac3 Posts: 1
    i got a 1991 ford ranger with 5 on the floor and 143 K miles and i cant seem to get the shifter to get out of neutral and im not sure if the clutch is disenganging or its the drive train or what :cry: but its really getting annoying an estamate for it to be fixed was like three grand :surprise:
  • started to leak from engine out of a draining hose. Now it is coming out of behind the glove box. Smoke comes out of the vent the engine over heats.The windows get all fogged up becouse of the heated water. The haynes book is helping a little bitbut not as much as i need. The entire dash has been pulled out half the heater and a/c unite pulled out but still cant get to the heater core unit an hoses. Well for one am i doing the right thing or have the right idea could someone give me a little input :confuse:
    thanks
    Rich
  • If you clear your codes, try this:
    http://trs.rrorc.com/CleanMAF.html

    If it isn't avail any more it suggests cleaning the filament wires in the MAF sensor. You will need a T15 or T20 Security Star drive. My 01 4.0L takes a T20. (Available @ atuozone for $2.99).
    With a cool engine, unplug the electrical connection, use the T-20 to remove the MAF sensor. Carefully spray the filament wires with an O2 SAFE carb cleaner. Let it dry or help with a few squirts of canned air. Clean surrounding area, replace, & plug in. You should be good to go. Do not over tighten the screws when replacing.............

    Good luck
    (this should work for #1228 also.

    01goldranger
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