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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair



  • rangerman1rangerman1 Posts: 1
    I need a seat release handle (passenger side) for my '98 Ranger Supercab. The OEM handle is stripped out. Does anyone know where I can get one?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What kind of a response are you expecting?

    For a $3,000 estimate, you should have a piece of paper with lots of things written on it that the shop will replace.....
  • petrakidpetrakid Posts: 1
    Ok so I am guessing that the reason my truck idles at like 2500RPM then drops down to 1500RPM when I completly stop is because I put a K&N filter in last week and the oil got all over the MAF sensor. I've since unplugged the sensor and it idles around 1000RPM but it idles rough. Is there a way to clean the sensor, or am I going to have to replace it with a new one?
  • kanawhakanawha Posts: 1
    I have an 89 Ford Ranger II, 4 cyl, 2.3 liter, 2 wgheel drive.
    Temp guage quit working, or is always on cold.
    After 20 minutes of driving, I detect the smell of an overheated radiator, and have a small leak someplace, but, can't exactly determie where.
    Water in radiator is barely warm, as if there is a blockage somewhere.
    Changed the thermostat, but, still have the same problem.
    I do not know where the temp sending sensor is.
    A friend said if there is no circulation, the gage will not register, and will stay on cold. He suggested it may be the water pump. But, I had thought the water pump squeals when it goes bad, or, at least, water flows out of it someplace, onto the ground.

    Can you all help me with this problem?


  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It will take a special 'security' torx driver to remove the MAF. Just pull it out. Inside are 1 or 2 very fine wires. Very delicate. Do not touch. Spray with electrical cleaner. Do not touch. Let it dry and put it back together.

    Throw the K&N filter away.
  • hlaj1hlaj1 Posts: 1
    So I am sitting in the 110 degree heat in the valley of the sun stroke in my 99 ranger 2WD 4.0 and I turn the switch to AC and it starts to cool down. I turn it to max AC and it might as well be a hair dryer. Thinking that maybe the freon is gone I shut it off, but as I pass through AC mode it blows cold. Why is my MAX AC acting like MAX AZ but my reg AC is working fine? Help me I am baking in the sun!
  • fmc12fmc12 Posts: 7
    try replacing the light module. ,it is mounted on is easy to get to after removing radio
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Your description indicates that (perhaps) your Ranger truck has a pressure leak and isn't getting up to normal pressure and that it's running cold. You really need a pressure check to tell.

    I would bet that your (plastic) radiator tanks either have cracked, as they do, or that the seal between the tank and radiator has failed. Look for white snail tracks on the tank of the radiator where the coolant has come out and dried as an indicator of where the leak is.

    Alternately, you may have a bad hose or fitting somewhere.

    If your pressure leak turns out to be the radiator, find an independant radiator shop to fix it, They can put a new plastic tank on the radiator. That will be a third the cost of a new radiator which is what you'll get if you take it to a general repair shop
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    Your description does indeed indicate classic symtoms of a failed heater core.

    Can't help on it's removal though as every car/truck is a little different.
  • rangerange Posts: 2
    Hi all, I have a 94 Ford Ranger with 211,000 miles and i too have the infamous Check engine light problem, it's not the light that bothers me it's the symptoms that come along with it. Here are the symptoms and the steps i've taken over time to combat it.

    After driving for an extended period of time or at very high speeds, the check enigine light will come on. Almost immediately following that the engine will begin to cut out or bogg down as if no gas or very little gas is reaching the engine. Rpms and all else remain normal, if i continue to drive the light will periodically come on and off. If stopped at a red light the truck will occansionally begin to shake and jerk. If i turn off the car and let it sit it for around 15 mins. it will run as normal for some time before the process starts over.

    I first had this problem at 114k miles(i got the truck at 100k) on a trip from LA to Vegas while driving at excessive speeds. It did not happen again until about 150k since then it's happend more and more frequently and at less and less drive time and speed. At this point i can't make it to the local gas station without the check engine light coming on and it's a battle to go UP streets.

    things that i've tried:

    Loosened the gas cap- this helped with the problem temporarily, very temporarily.

    Replaced fuel filter- did seem to help at the time for a day or two but not really.

    ...basically lots of things help the problem but nothing fixes it permenantly.

    So after time the truck will begin to cut out sooner and sooner until it won't start up. My father took a look at it and replaced some sort of "electronic regulator" he said and the car started up fine and ran great for a good 6 months. Now the the problem is back, it seems to have come on suddenly this time rather than gradually worsened. Later we're going to take a look at it and see what's up, i'll udate if we fix it and any advice would we greatly aprreciated since i'm still unsure of what exactly the cause is. thx

    P.S. - about 3 weeks ago i noticed my gas tank is leaking but only when i top it off, this might have something to do with the problem coming on more suddenly (gas tank pressure) hopefully i'll find out.

    P.S.S- although the eltronic part my father replaced had the truck running great for 6 months the problem would still happen occasionally so it did not completely fix the problem. He's an electrician and was messing with the fuses as well so possibly he just "reset" the check engine light in some way which others have stated helps. I just saw Star Wars...Odd problem to have this is.
  • I've go the same year, and had the same problem. The solution I found that worked for me is WD40, sprayed into the door latch. I pulled it off of another site (can't remember which one) where a lot of people were reporting this problem, and WD40 seemed to work well for them.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    211,000 miles.

    Check engine light.

    This truck has been your good and faithful servant for years and years and miles and miles.

    And you seem to not want to take it to a mechanic, to have the codes pulled, and have its ills repaired.

    You don't deserve this truck.
  • remowremow Posts: 1

    I have a 2001 ranger 4x4 extended cab with the infamous thump clunk problem. I would like to get the drive shaft fix instead of the grease.

    Does anyone have the part number for the new yoke or do I need to replace the whole driveshaft? The tsb implies that it is just a yoke, but no part number.

    My cruise control head under the hood has gone bad. Anyone have part number or a place online I can order one?

  • dru2_9dru2_9 Posts: 1
    well if you meed a quick fix un do the heater core hoses and atach them togeather with a nipple
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Try spraying WD-40 into the door latches, especially the driver's side. This worked for me and have noticed that many people are doing the same.
  • brysuebrysue Posts: 35
    Where is the PCV located in a 1997 Ford Ranger 2.3L. :confuse:
  • actreatactreat Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    No idea if anyone actually reads these, but I have the exact same problem desribed by jared4071. the player was working fine, getting warm like it usually does, and then it just stopped playing Cds all together. doesnt' matter if they're new or self-burned. no self-made labels on 'em, either. it just displays "CD Error 0001", which in the owner's manual is listed as something non-helpful like "unable to read disk". the disks are fine - any ideas? thanks much
  • ebollingerebollinger Posts: 1
    my fathers cam belt snapped on his 97 ranger 2.3, and we put a new one in, we followed the Haynes book step by step, and after completion, the truck would not start. we plugged a diagnostic tool into the computer, and it said there weren't any problems. does anybody know what could be wrong???
  • kx_dadkx_dad Posts: 2
    I was having the same problem with my Ranger.Try spraying silicone in the door latch. It worked for me instantly.
  • greenchiefgreenchief Posts: 1
    I enjoy reading the posts to this board, they are informal and enjoyable. I have a 2001 Ranger 3.0 XLT. There are two things I want to do to my truck.

    First, the side turn signals are burned out, and I can't figure out how to access the lights to change them. I've tried from above, tried prying on the light itself, nothing. There are no screws holding this light on, nothing. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

    Second, I'm thinking of swapping out the engine for a larger one. I realize the Ranger comes with either a 3.0 or 4.0. Does anyone know where you can purchase a rebuild engine for this year? Can you go larger than 4.0 in the Ranger?

    Thanks. :D
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