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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • Thanks,
    I figured that was the case, but could not find it listed anywhere. No need to, just noticed.
  • I have a 2002 Ford Ranger with 86K miles on it. So far it has been a great truck... I had recently replaced my roters because i had already turned the old ones twice. I also replaced the pads. When driving the vehicle and for a prolonged period of time the I hear loud grinding noises in the front and feel it in the break peddle. But it seems like it only does it when the breaks get warm. It will only do it after excesive use like in stop and go traffic. If anyone has any idea what I should check that would be great. Thanks
  • timmymacktimmymack Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Range Supercab that I consider an excellent truck, but have had trouble with the front brakes for the last three years, replaced the pads 5 or 6 times, the passenger side rotor twice, completely flushed the fluid lines and filled with new fluid, but the problem persisted. Last week I finally bit the bullet and my wife brought it into a dealer service center. The problem was with rust build up on the caliper that inteferes with the ability for the moving side to slide in and out. The fix was some silicone compound that Ford came up with about a year, or so, ago as a solution to a problem that afflicts virtually every truck Ford makes. When my wife asked about a recall, she was told just that, every truck for the last 6 or more years would be recalled. So apparently, the awareness by Ford of this problem is being kept quiet except to dealers. I'm out $400.00 for this last fix and probably $200.00 more trying to do it myself. Has anyone else had this same problem? My brakes were so bad that the mechanic wouldn't allow my wife to drive home before they were fixed.
  • could be loose connection on a 12v source(check wires related to starting system) .....most likely the starter is hung up or there is a loose connection on it...you could try just tapping on it with a hammer while an other person turns the key to start it and if it does start up you know you need a starter
  • i was wondering if anyone knew the location of the clutch start sensor on a 1991 Ford Ranger STX 4.0
  • Just has a major tune up of my 4 cylinder 89 Ranger, New Belts, hoses, etc. after 110k miles. Started smelling gas but thought that I might have overfilled the tank. Yeah, I know, stupid to think it might go away.
    Anyway, took a major trip today to pick up a boat. Spent $89 for gas for a 200 mile trip and ran out of gas. Carried a spare gas can and made it to a gas station. Got home and noticed a steady stream on the pavement when I was backing the boat into the driveway. Major gas leak but only when engine is running I think. Is it the fuel line? Something a shade tree mechanic can do or is this a "dealer special"? thanks for the help!
  • Hi, i need some help with my 92 ford ranger XLT... i can start it right up but if i do not let it warm up for about 3-5 minutes... as soon as i put it in drive or press on gas it dies and i cant start it for around 10-15 minutes after that. anyone have a resolution or any ideas on this problem? any help would be greatly appreciated. thank you :) :cry:
  • nospamnospam Posts: 54
    The gas you are talking about is called E85. It is 85% Ethanol and 15% gasoline. Check out this site for info about where to buy and what vehicles can use it.

    www.e85fuel.com

    Hope this helps.
  • I don't know where you can find one, but if you do find one, let me know. I have the identical problem with my 2001 Ranger. Wish Ford and other US manufacturers would go back to metal parts in lieu of the cheap plastic they are so fond of.
  • themoothemoo Posts: 1
    mikeb2k5...Thanx for that tip. Reading this string it probably saved me a trip to the dealer and a shaft on a repair. I had a steady ABS light, Check engine, flashing O/D Off, dead speedometer and an erratic shifting problem. All these things happened within minutes of each other. I saw your reply to someone elses problem and said it couldnt hurt to try. 4 minutes later I started my car and the dash was CLEAR!!!! No lights what-so-ever. Took it for a test drive and cant even tell there was a problem. On a side note the guy at the parts counter started singing the song "Another one bites the dust." Kinda funny. The part # on the motorcraft box is, BRAB-130 F85Z-2L373-AC. Awesome.
  • I have a 98 ranger my problems are simillar. but i have a check engine light on what it could be is a vaccum leak at the upper intake plenum it's plastic and warps or cracks ford has since came up with a new one thats not all plastic
  • Wondering if you had resolved this yet, as the original message is now about 5 weeks old, but there is a trick to bleeding the master cyllinders that I have not yet seen described, but which worked well for me. After a new slave and master cylinder replacement (Which I did, including transmission removal) my system still had air trapped and felt way too "spongy" for pedal travel. The problem is that air trapped in the master cyllinder CANNOT escape under ANY circumstances, unless you do one important thing... The master cylinder must be turned upside-down. No kidding. It's easier to do than you might think, but takes some work. It's easier to do if it's being replaced, while the new cylinder is not yet mounted to the pedal and bracket. Just invert it. Nothing will run out; it's sealed. I pressure bleed the system at about 20psi. with a tank of brake fluid and an air regulator. Stopping and starting a few times allows trapped air to exit the now inverted master cylinder's base and go down through the tubing to the slave and out the bleeder. You see, both inlet AND outlet tubes enter and exit the master cyllinder FROM THE BOTTOM. (If you think about it, there must always be trapped air in there unless you invert the cylinder.) Now, it does help to have the pedal depressed during a pressure bleed if the cylinder is installed in a normal position, but you don't even have to depress the pedal plunger if you turn it upside down. It's virtually impossible to do without turning upside-down.
  • The starter switch is located on the clutch master cylinder shaft, immediately below the pivot connection to the clutch pedal lever inside the cab. There is a connector with about 6 wires (don't know what the heck all are for but I think only two are needed!). There's a small plastic slide-clip which can be removed so that this switch pack can be removed from the shaft as a unit, with it's internal spring and slider mechanism.
  • afwxafwx Posts: 1
    My 95 Ranger stalls frequently due to loss of power to the fuel pump. I wait two minutes and it starts back up. When it stalls, the fuel pump does not buzz. I have replaced the fuel pump, inertia switch, and the relay twice. It does not matter what the weather is. It has stall in 100 degree Alabama heat and 20 below Alaska cold. It stalled on dry sunny days and rainy days. I took it to the dealer and they replace $550 of sensors and assured me the problem was taken care of. They don't have a clue to what is wrong with it. It will stall 4 times within a ten minute drive and then go weeks without stalling. It always starts back up within two minutes. I need some help please.
  • When trying to start i just get a clicking noise from the relay which i replaced, I have checked all connections to battery and starter for anything loose, have tapped the started and tried starting and also rolled it a bit to see if I could get the starter loosened, any suggestions or should i just break down and buy a new starter/starter soleniod?
  • First, ask to have the filter and fluid replaced. After about 5 years, it is possible for normal clutch band wear to create "dust" which should accumulate in the bottom pan of the transmission. This is normal, but if the filter is trying to suck up fluid and gets clogged with this stuff (or anything else, for that matter) it is possible for the hydraulic pump to be fluid starved and weird things happen if this is the case, including a "slipping" situation because of lack of fluid. (I am assuming that the fluid LEVEL is good and that it's something other than just low fluid level).

    I have seen transmission "specialty" shops (no names, but you probably have seen their ad's) tell customers that their transmissions have "problems", and show them this grey / black powdery goopy stuff that was in their transmission bottom pan. Realize that unless there's something else going on, or if there's really a ot of this stuff in there, that some of this stuff is normal clutch wear material. I'm guessing (just guessing, based on years of ownership of multiple types of automatic transmissions) that if there's no more than, say, a level teaspoon of this stuff in the bottom pan of a "typical" transmission, it's probably normal wear for a few years. Maybe three. I think I would suggest changing the fluid and filter every other year if you drive it hard, or maybe every 3rd to 4th year if it's not driven too hard. Just a guesstimate. I know some people who have never changed AT fluid and filters in 100,000 miles and have no trouble at all. go figure. Then there's the rest of us... Hope this helps.
  • yd29999yd29999 Posts: 4
    99 Ranger 4x4 3.0 ff auto, ran a scan and code P0176 - Fuel Compensation Sensor Circuit Malfuntion came up. Thought? Location? How to repair? 144,00 miles.
  • yd29999yd29999 Posts: 4
    Ok, this might sound odd, but I had what seems to be the same problem. So I disconnected the neg,. battery terminal to clear the computer and let it reset. 2 or 3 mins will do. All was well, then sometimes I wouldn't get 50 miles on it and it would start acting up again, sometimes it went 1000 miles. I wondered about the ground cable all along. After months of playing with this I put a new bolt on the ground cable clamp and made sure it was tight enough. 2 months and 3000 miles have gone by with no problems. I'm wondering now if the ground would mess up and tripping the computer or ?
    Just an idea you might wanna try.
  • deedrikdeedrik Posts: 1
    Hey woodturner5, I have the exact same problem with my 96 XLT Ranger. Let me know what you did to fix it. I'm stumped! I think solenoid replacement is the only way...
  • I was having the same problem with my Mazda B4000 4x4 and I changed the fuel pump relay (fuse/switch) under the hood where the fuse block compartment is under the hood. Once I changed that she started right up and continues to run fine, hope this helps.
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