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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gunneygunney Member Posts: 1
    We are getting ready to purchase this vehicle and wondered if anyone out there has any serious negatives for this 2002 Ranger. It is 2wd, 2 dr XLT. Thank You.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    well, i have an '01 ranger 4x4 supercab 4.0 off-road. with 9500 miles, i have no problems at all. the mileage isn't what i would like it to be. good luck.
  • fritzdutchfritzdutch Member Posts: 2
    The main problem with my 2001 supercab 4x4 Ranger is that my Driver's side rear door has broken shut twice in the three months I've owned it. What I find most irritating though is the "popping" noise I get from the left side of the vehicle when I turn left or go over a bump while accelerating. It sounds like the noise is comming from the rear door and I thought it was related to the door problem, but Ford replaced all the rear door latches the last time I had the truck in the dealership. But, the popping noise is still there. Do anyone have a similar noise in your Ranger Supercab? Thank you for your time.
  • goldrangergoldranger Member Posts: 54
    To: JCC6

    The squeak I had was from the brake shoes rubbing on the back plate, they moved because the rear drums were out of round. Normally they (and I) would have simply had the drums resurfaced and trued. But they said since it was under warranty, Ford had to replace. There are three little ridges on the back plate that contacts the brake shoe. You can put a dab of lubricant on the ridge and the squeak will stop. You could also feel a light pulsing in the brake pedal. I had no hassle at all from the dealer. I told him what it was doing, they drove the truck, it did what I was complaining about, they ordered the rear drums (both). The only thing some folks would complain about was it took him overnight to get the parts.
    Don't think I'm crazy, but do you have a sqeal or squeak? There is a difference. Mine was a squeak...
  • fedforesterfedforester Member Posts: 16
    I have a 1991 ranger 2-wheel drive, 3.0 six and standard trans. Like others this machine has had some pinging problems in hot weather, low elevations or hard pulls (other Fords seem similar) and minor oil consumption from the start. I've learned to deal with the ping (a dose of Chevron Technolene cleaner helps in the spring, I suppose cleans out carbon) and pushing throttle full down stops the ping (by inriching mixture). I now have 248,000 on the truck, its cost next to nothing for repairs, no down time, and runs as good as ever so I'm happy with it. I do sort of wonder how long they last and what breaks first (if anything) as I can not find any problems with body, drive train or anything. Oil consumption still very minor. No worries.
  • mikedealmikedeal Member Posts: 3
    i purchased a 2000 ranger 3.0l v-6 auto off lease a while back.

    i really like the truck overall, however, my mileage driving around town is (imo) terrible. i am averaging 13 mph, using regular. i've had two dealers look at it, and they just shrug their shoulders, or tell me this is about the best i can expect. any ideas?

    also, does anybody know what the decal on the lift gate by the ford oval mean? it shows a highway, with a flame on it? emissions? would this have any effect on overall mpg?

    thanks for any suggestions/ideas.

    mike
  • mikedealmikedeal Member Posts: 3
    i should have included that it is a 5 speed, 2wd, extended cab.

    what is a k&N filter, and where can they be obtained...how much do they increase mpg?

    thanks
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    That decal should be green, and the flame is a leaf I think. That's showing that your truck is a flex-fuel vehicle(FFV), but I don't know much more than that.


    Actually a quick web search found the following:

    http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/flextech.shtml

    You might wanna check your owner manual as well.


    A K&N filter is a air filter that provides better airflow than stock paper elements. It helps your engine breathe better(suck air in better), and can thus produce more power. More power can increase your fuel milage a slight amount, but only if you keep off the ole lead foot, which is hard when you get more power. Any Pep boys, autozone, O'reilly or other auto parts store should carry them.
    Also consider removing the intake snorkle/silencer in front of the airbox will improve airflow.

  • goldrangergoldranger Member Posts: 54
    mikedeal,

    the thing on the tail gate indicates the "tree-hugger" engine. It can run on "flexible-fuel" something like ethanol, pressed corn stalks, and other so called environmentally friendly safe fuels. They are not readily available in the Southeast so I don't know much else about it. I have read that it was dropped for 2002. As for poor mileage, I agree with stang, check air cleaner, etc. Outside of the 2.3 Fords don't do very well on fuel mileage.

    Good Luck
  • jpelderjpelder Member Posts: 235
    My '93 Ranger 2WD xlt extended cab gets 21-24 MPG consistently, with 99,000 miles. I have the 3.0L

    I actually expected a bit more since my last 2 s-10's got 24-27MPG.

    Something is definitely wrong with 13MPG.

    Years ago, I bought some of those split-fire plugs. I did not notice an increase in power or mileage, but I still have them in.

    Heck of a great truck.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    But it was a 3.0l extended cab with automatic that was getting the 13mpg.

    That's why I think I'll do just fine with the 3.0l in my 2003 regular cab, with 5 speed manual. :)

    mikedeal--->Try running the usual injector cleaners and other likewise products through the engine. I don't see how you would loose milage by running 100% gasoline (0% ethanol), but you could have some carbon deposits, or other build/clog. A dirty sensor, or even a fuel filter could be the cuplrit.
  • rfrossrfross Member Posts: 15
    I have a 2002 Ranger 4 door extended. A bit over 5,000 miles to date and NO door noises. However, I am out of town as I write this and am driving a rented Budget Rentacar Ranger 4 door extended. This is a 2001 model and it has the same popping noise that fritzdutch reported above. Mostly occurs on turns and with bumps. This truck has a little over 30,000 on the odo.....
  • mikedealmikedeal Member Posts: 3
    thanks for all your suggestions...i'll try the various suggestions offered.
    if still no improvement, it has been suggested that i contact the regional rep for ford while the truck is still under warranty.
    i live in the seattle area...anybody know how to contact this person? my local ford dealer isn't much help...tell me i should live with the problem.

    thanks
  • jfowlerjrjfowlerjr Member Posts: 20
    If you live in the seattle area you might try going to Riverside Ford in Sumner.

    When I take my 2001 4.0 liter 4 door extended cab(14000 miles) in for service I always here someone thanking them for there great service.

    James
  • fdutchfdutch Member Posts: 1
    Just wanted to thank RFROSS for reporting the popping noise on his rental. My 2001 truck was in the Dealer for two weeks for this noise and a cracked door panel; I picked it up yesterday and I'm still getting the popping noise on left turns and bumps. Unfortunately the pop sounds like it's right next to your ear. The Dealer has acknowledged the noise in two separate test rides but obviously isn't having any luck with fixing it. Has anyone had this problem successfully repaired??? Thanks. Fritz Dutch
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    i also had a 2001 supercab ranger. have you checked your seat belt male end? sometimes it rattles up against the plastic door trim. other than that, mine was quiet as a mouse.
  • jpelderjpelder Member Posts: 235
    FDUTCH, now that you mentioned it, I remember a similar popping noise years ago in my '93 ranger. It annoyed me for weeks until I figured it out. I kept doing sudden turns to cause the noise...I had to readjust the passenger seat belt.

    It was a very deceptive sound. I know it may sound too simple to be the cause for other people's complaints, but you never know!
  • fritzdutchfritzdutch Member Posts: 2
    Thank you both for the seat belt suggestion on the popping noise. The seat belt mechanism is about the only part of the door that hasn't been reworked. Maybe I'll try again with the Dealership to try to get it fixed. Have a good day. Fritz Dutch
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I have a 2000 4x4 4.o w/ auto. If I log mostly in-town miles, in cold weather, I will get about 12 to 13. I don't think that is out of line, given lower gearing of a truck, weight, cold motor, etc. It gets about 18 to 19 on the highway (about normal), so I am not surprised. Also, mileage DID improve it seems after I got 7 or 8K on the truck. My F-150 buddies with a small v8, 2x4 do BETTER than I do. I am considering getting an F-150 or Tundra 2x4 with LSD and V8 anyways, so the improvement in mileage will be nice. FWIW, I also read online somewhere that Ford had richened up the fuel/air mixture of the 3.0 to try to help alleviate the infamous pinging problems (I cannot substantiate this with an actual link, however). Perhaps that could be a reason the new 3.0 V6's are worse on MPG than the old ones ???? In any event, the 3.0 should last a long time; the Ranger motors are very good. Now, if Ford could just refine the rest of the drivetrain.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    The 2002 3.0l v6 gets better gas milage.

    2001. (City/Hwy)
    Manual: 17 mpg / 22 mpg
    Automatic: 16 mpg / 21 mpg
    Horsepower: 150 hp @ 5000 rpm
    Torque: 185 ft-lbs. @ 3750 rpm

    2002.
    Manual: 19 mpg / 22 mpg
    Automatic: 17 mpg / 22 mpg
    Horsepower: 154 hp @ 5200 rpm
    Torque: 180 ft-lbs. @ 3900 rpm

    Couple this with a regular cab, 2 wheel drive, and a 5 speed manual, and it should be real peppy and economical. I hope to purchase this or better when the 2003 models roll out.
  • wyncotewyncote Member Posts: 5
    My Ranger, bought new last summer, has had an occasional musty, mildew smell coming from the vents since the first week. It seemed worse on damp/rainy days. My big problem is not the smell, but whatever is causing it makes me very sick when I run the blower, esp. the AC.

    The dealer deodorized it twice (no help) then said they had to pull the dash and replace the evaporator. But they later copped out as the tech. couldnt duplicate my concern. I went to another dealer who said they are well aware of the problem ... they had a service bulliten or something on it ... and they would need to replace the evaporator. They too ended up not replacing it (they told me that didnt apply to my truck) but installed what the service writer described as a "reverse fan" to prevent the smell's return.

    But again, it is the buildup itself making me sick, not the smell.

    When I got my truck back, there was a pre-printed flyer inside stating: "A module has been added to turn on the blower motor for two minutes after your vehicle has been parked for 45 minutes. This will help prevent the return of odors from the AC system."

    So far no odor, but I still get very sick whenever I run the blower and/or AC. Is the dealer being straight, or is this being used as a "mask" for a deeper probem? Thanks
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    something died in there... Stranger things have been seen before... :)
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    This odor seems to be a common problem with AC, esepecially if it used intermittantly and not all of the time. You are apparently very allergic to these mold spores (probably mildew spores). I'd say your AC is fine, but you need to get to an allergist ASAP if you are literally getting sick. the problem with a lot of current vehicles (including Ford) they have no simple ON/OFF AC control like they used to. Your AC will run a lot of the times when you don't WANT it too, or don't even need it. It would be great if they would go back to a simple AC switch, and let the driver turn it on when he needs it, and off when he doesn't want it. The designers think the driver is tto stupid to know when he needs his AC. Sort of like GM with their totally moronic headlights that will not turn off unless you use a 12 pound sledge.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    The A/C will run more often, because a A/C unit that does not run for a long period of time may start to leak. Cycling the system will cycle the internal oil designed to ensure the lifespan of the o-rings that hold in the refrigerant. In addition, the A/C does run to eliminate fogging or moisture in the air.
  • wyncotewyncote Member Posts: 5
    Yes, I think you are probably right that I'm having an allergic reaction to mold or something in the system. I disagree though that the A/C is working as it should. I've never had this problem in other vehicles, including another Ranger. I don'think the mold should've built up as fast as it did. I had the musty smell since about the first day I took delivery of the truck when it was brand new. This has been present not only with the A/C, but with th heater and the defroster.
  • andil1andil1 Member Posts: 97
    My husband finally went in to get his Firestone tires changed out. The dealers closest to us claim they still don't have Ranger tires or else they don't want our business 'cause we didn't buy our truck there. So we went back to the dealer where we bought the truck. We were very surprised when we were told we had "oddball" size tires which the dealer didn't have. Seems the tires are "skinny" as the technician called them--215's, but they claim all the Rangers they've seen have 235's. Funny, we bought the truck there. Now, we're wondering if the dealer or the manufacturer changed them out. We don't have the original window sticker to see what we should have. The head technician checked to see if the tires indeed were original equipment--he thought it looked like they were, and we know they are 'cause there are only 14,000 miles on the truck. The truck is a 4WD super cab XLT with 2 doors, step-side. The tires have to be special ordered--and another 1/2 day missed from work. Does anyone else have the "skinny" tires on their pickup, or is our truck the exception?
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    Wierd. May possibly be regular equipment but I doubt it. I got a 2wd and its got 225's.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    it all depends on a couple of things. does your truck have the OFF-ROAD PACKAGE? if so, it has 16" wheels. and in '98 it was the first year for this package. the tires i believe were 225/75/16, which is a little odd sized. next year in '99, they went up to 245/75/15's on the off-road equipped trucks. if your truck has 15" wheels, it could have 215/75/15's or 235/75/16's on it. it really depends on what your truck is. xlt? xl? xl's usually get the cheapest stuff, where xlt's get a variety of sized tires, it just depends on what package your truck has on it.
    THE ONLY WAY TO TELL WHAT SIZE TIRES CAME ON YOUR TRUCK, IS TO LOOK AT THE BUILD TAG ON THE INSIDE OF THE DRIVER'S DOOR. IT WILL TELL THE SIZE OF TIRES THAT CAME ON IT AND THE AIR PRESSURE. CHECK THIS TO BE SURE. GOOD LUCK.
  • andil1andil1 Member Posts: 97
    Duh, why didn't I think of that? I know recommended tire pressure is inside the driver door, so it would follow the tire size is there also! My husband will check it when he goes to work today. There is a decal that says 4X4 Off Road on the sides of the truck, so I guess it must have the Off Road Package.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    then it is an xlt and has 16" wheels on it. they're either bright chrome or polished aluminum (as ford used two 16" wheels on '98 rangers and explorers, must have had a bunch left over from '97). and in '98, the off-roads had 225/75/16's, and that is a rare size of tire. if i were you, i would put 245/75/16's on it. this is a little taller tire and looks a lot better. plus, you'll be able to find them anywhere. good luck. this is what new ranger off-roads come equipped with from the factory.
  • longboarderlongboarder Member Posts: 7
    My 01' 4x4 4dr 4.0L (purchased last august) created the same musty smell from day one. I will sometimes smell this when the AC isn't used (just normal blower motor). It is very annoying. the next time i'm at the dealer i'll ask them to address this and will pass along any fixes they come up with.
    I haven't been sick because of it but i do wonder if what i'm breathing is unhealthy.
  • 96flea96flea Member Posts: 38
    It came on once before and had it looked at. The mechanic said it was something to do with the emmissions, nothing to worry about so it was reset. It has came on a few more times and all i did was unhook the battery to clear it. It usually takes about 1000 miles or so for it to come on again. But last time it came on 20 miles after unhooking the battery. So now i say screw it. The light stays on. Truck runs great but i did notice that when it came on i changed to a lower octane. I usually run 93 but put 89 in it. Even if the truck runs great could i be doing something bad and pay for it later? Is it true that AutoZone does those free obd checks?
    Also, what is the best oil filter to use and how many miles have any of you been putting on between changes? I usually go 3000 but consumer reports said 5000 and so did cartalk.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    dude, you have a problem obviously. you want to cause damage? check your o2 sensors. its probably that, or clean your maf sensor with electronics cleaner. don't just ignore it. duh

    motorcraft oil filters with havoline 5-30. 3000 mile intervals
  • crispyfriescrispyfries Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the encyclopedia of info. I will heed some of the better advice I've read here (browsed thru the whole thread tonight) on my test-drive. Looking forward to testing the ABS system. %^} Could someone enlighten me a little on limited-slip diff. vs. locking diff.? Am I hallucinating , or does the 98 4.0 4X4 seem to have more than its fair share of problems?
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    5 things to check IMMEDIATELY:
    1) Take the truck for a drive from say 50 to 70 MPH. Note for nasty vibration of floorbards and seats. This could be the difficult to fix drivetrain vibe. In some cases, a badly machined driveshaft extension flange (splines leading from AT) were the culprit. If you buy one with a bad shaft-flange out of warranty, it is an expensive fix. 2) These trucks are notorious for "jitter" and bounce on the freeway. If you are used to 4x4's, fine, a non-issue. If you use your truck like a car, this may be very annoying to you. 3) Most of these trucks had bad turn signal/ wiper control microswitches. The "phantom wiper" problem where wipers come on by themselves, or, like my case don't work at all. CHECK THE WIPERS as you drive, for an extended period; cycle them on and off a few times.
    3) Make sure cruise and A/C work properly, and also look for LEAKING REAR SEALS AT REAR OF TRANNY, another common problem (a 450 dollar fix out of warranty). 4) The 4.0 is a NOISY motor. It can sound like it is a coffee can full of ball bearings when it is cold. A "rod like " knock is fairly common, and is typical of that motor (the one I own). They will be noisy for 150 000 miles, and are very strong engines. Don't be alarmed about the noise.
    5) If the AT has a 5 speed OD, CHECK THE OVERDRIVE AND MAKE SURE IT IS WORKING properly. Drive the truck at about 45 to 55 and cylcle the OD on and off at intervals of say 15-20 seconds. It should reliably go on and off securely on level ground, with the dash indicator light showing.
    A LSD uses slip clutches on the rear wheels to help transfer load to the wheel that is spinning the most (useful for boat ramps and snow with an empty truck). A true LOCKER literally mechanically locks up the rear end so BOTH wheels literally are behaving as if on a solid rear axle. This feature is useful offroad or in severe snow or ice conditions, but UNUSEABLE of course on dry pavement. Most guys would never use or even need a locker UNLESS an offroader. I own a 2000 Ranger 4.0 4x4, but wish I would have bought an F-150 or a Tundra. The highway ride in my Ranger is pretty miserable, vibrating badly most of the time; I tried upgrading tires to Michelins, but it actually made the ride worse (although the truck handles better). The engine has been reliable and strong. I LOVE the 4 door cab, its best feature; the ride is its worst feature. Good luck.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    Check out this list to get an idea of problems with the Ranger:


    http://www.alldata.com/TSB/20/982023C3.html

  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Frey, you need to quit thinking that all Rangers are like yours. It's not like your vibrating problem is a intended.

    Ok, you need to start replacing anything that counts as rotating assembly or unsprung mass.
    You did tires, and I assume wheel rims. How about rotors? How about driveshafts? It could be anything, but you need to start having it checked out, piece by piece.

    tbunder--->I think motorcraft filters are OK, but they don't seem to be the best. They do offer great oil flow, which helps on keeping the oil circulating, but I use mobil 1 filter with a homemade magnet on the side to catch all those metal particles floating around. Typically use Gastrol GTX, but I am thinking of the havoline high milage oil for next time...

    flea--->Autozone sells code scanners, but I'm not sure if they can do it for free. Most vehicles have self diagnostic methods that either require a unique combination of buttons and ignition to be set, or a voltmeter to read the codes. But a actual code scanner is much easier. But I'd have to agree with tbunder, could be the O2 sensor, assuming you've kept up with everything else (filters, pcv, map, etc)

    crispy--->Frey has a good description down. Just remember Lockers are either full time (think john Force funny car) or part time. Full time lockers can't turn for squat, because both rear wheels want to turn EXACTLY alike. Part time lockers (like the one found on Tacoma) are activated when you're rock climbing, or off-roading a difficult section. Limited Slip Differentials are "full time" as they have no counterpart to engage or disengage. They work all the time, using clutches to deliver power to the wheel(s) that are not slipping. The clutches do wear out eventually, which could be anywhere from 60k to 100k, depending on driving style. But the thing to mention about Limited Slip's are they work all the time. If you are driving though a country road, with plenty of curves, and it's rainy or iced over, the LSD will help you when one wheel starts to spin. Lockers don't help you turn at all, and when locking differentials are not activated, they are open wheel, or driving off one wheel only.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    the reason i (started) use/ing motorcraft filter is that i learned. i use to use fram which are decent for every 3000 miles, but after swearing by them, i was provided a total scientific test where a man bought every type of filter, cut them open and did several tests on flow, filter, paper length, etc. the fram was terrible, but for people changing every 3000 miles, they're fine. i have an engine that we have used nothing but fram on, and it has 154,000 miles on it and still runs new. its a turbo 2.3 as well. but, the best performing filter was a purolator pure-one. the motorcraft is a purolator-pure-one. they build them for ford. that's why i use them. mobil1 was NOT the best. ill try to find the article. but this is why i switched. purolator evidently has the best flow and filtering capabilities. plus, it doesn't leak after the engine is shut off, like most of the rest of them did. to each his own though.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    DO NOT, i repeat, DO NOT listen to frey. the '98 ranger is a good truck. it is just like all the rangers, nothing changed much on '98's. just different suspension on the front and a facelift. the engines are the same, as is drivetrain. a truck is only as good as it was taken care of. some will live on their own, but a good truck has to be taken care of to some extent. if i were you, i'd opt for at least a 2001 with the new SOHC 207 horse 4.0, it will run circles around the old 4.0. the 3.0 is an excellent mill, but needs the manual to use it like you probably want. frey's one of those that evidently neglects problems. that's why he's so cynical on your choice. ive had three rangers in my life, and except for the (then normal) 5th gear armageddon on my '88 with 2.9, ive had no problems at all with any of them (all 4x4s). my dad still has an '88 with 2.3 4x4 manual, it just turned over 200K a few thousand miles back and is all original. runs like a top. and everything works. he cuts wood in it quite a bit and it always hauls a heavy load in 4x4 terrain. good luck
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    I thought Mobil 1 was the best, as far as filtering goes, but I'll definitely believe it just doesn't flow as well... I agree the bottom line is pretty much that as long as you change your oil and filter every 3000 miles, it doesn't really make a noticable difference.
  • lannydslannyds Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 XLT, 4x4. When the air control is in heater mode, putting heat only on the floor, I get a cold draft coming from around the shroud that covers the steering column and out of other cracks or around knobs in the dash. My feet get nice and warm and warm air comes out of the small side window defroster vents too. But, this cold air coming out is freezing my knees. Of course the dealer stated that all is working as designed. I seem to remember that once for a couple days the heat flowed to the floor only as directed and no cold air came our around the steering column shrowd. Has anyone else felt these cold drafts?
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I was trying to help point out potential problems. All of the porblems I pointed out are well documented (simply read the TSB's). As I have have said repeatedly: Good engine, strong drivetrain, and vibration galore. The 4.0 "shaker motor" engine will run for 200 K if taken care of. It will rattle and shake its way there..RELIABLY. If you want a very SMOOTH running truck, it is a LIE to represent a 4.0 Ranger that way. Smooth is ain't..BUT, that may not matter to the purchaser, as everyone has to drive and see how it all works out for him personally. If you drive a V-8 F 150 or a V-8 Tundra once, there is no looking back. The Ranger 4.0 will then feel like a horse and buggy on a gravel road.
    Peace, bro. Just be HONEST on your appraisals; post the WHOLE truth. You are a "Ford can do no wrong" guy, thru and thru. We all know that.
  • frey44frey44 Member Posts: 230
    I too have a 2000 Ranger 4x4. Yes, mine feels that way too. The local dealer suggested to me to put in a hotter thermostat, but I never got around to doing it. In fact, I never checked to see what thermostats are available. I am assuming it is a 180 vs. 195 degree swap. But, I cannot confirm that using Ford part numbers, so I am speculating. I am still hassling with the dealer about getting my extension flange and driveshaft swapped out under warrantly (I only have 15 000 miles on the truck).
  • crispyfriescrispyfries Member Posts: 10
    My first post, and look what I started. Can we all at least agree that we like Fords/Rangers to some degree or we wouldn't be reading and writing and opinionating about them so much? It's healthy though, and very informative. Well, I went on the test drive, and was very much on the look out for the clunking/chattering/vibrating I've read so much about here, but the ride was very smooth. I was impressed. I grew up in my dad's '71 F250 4X4, so I'm not the least put off by what a typical 4X4 ride is like. If I wanted an smooth ride, I'd buy an SUV. But this truck was damn smooth, even at 70. I even let it coast a bit, down to like 45-50 and got on it again, several times, listening for the infamous clunking each time, but I never heard it. Even rattles and squeeks, and other interiour noises were impressively absent. There were a couple minor things: 1) the driver side auto-lock didn't unlock, only locked. It only unlocked from the passenger side and w/ the remote switch (keyless). 2) the alarm wasn't hooked up to the horn, which might not be so bad, but since the remote switch was not original Ford, I'm a little skeptical as to who and how it was hooked up. 3) the battery needed a quick boost to start the engine when the salesdude first tried to fire it up. This could have been because it hadn't been started for a spell, but I tend to think more pessimistically, like there is a drain on the battery somewhere. Otherwise, I didn't see any leaks, although I will look more closely for that rear seal leak that frey44 warns of. Turns out this is not the 4D, but the 2D, since the ad was inaccurate. No cruise or tilt either, but I don't mind too much. Overall, I was impressed, but I'm still a little wary of not knowing exactly the service history behind the vehicle, although I will delve into this w/ salesdude next time we chat. Thanks all for your insights.
  • tbundertbunder Member Posts: 580
    you OBVIOUSLY haven't driven a 2001 with SOHC 4.0-smooth as any lincoln or caddy. also, i have driven and ridden in many old 4.0 rangers and explorers, they are good running mills and if yours runs like you say, its YOUR fault. take care of it. plugs, wires, havoline oil, motorcraft filter, new air filter, grease u-joints, alignment, etc. its called preventive maintenance.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    I did want to interject that the 3 problems you found could all be related. If someone installs an aftermarket alarm, say in their driveway or even by the kids at circuit city, their could be some wiring gremlins to chase out.

    The alarm ties into the locking circuits, and might have disrupted a connection. The Horn is probably easy to change if you want. And the Battery could be old or their could be a drain, which would probably be alarm related.
    If you have an autozone in the area, they will do a free check on your battery to see how many amps it is putting out. Then you'll know where to begin.

    Hope everything else turns out right.
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    preventative maintenance?

    Frey only has 15,000 miles on the thing. Please explain to me how using havoline oil and motorcraft oil filters is going to fix the vibration? Can I borrow your blinders for a week or two?
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    Not the vibration, the roughness he always complains about in the motor.

    But the biggest lesson is to take any vehicle you are about to purchase for a test drive. Be sure to reach highway speeds and listen for anything.

    If you don't, then that's kind of like buying an airplane, and just taxiing around the runway before buying it. Only to find out when the plane actually gets airborne, it has a vibration in the body.

    Anybody who believes they all come from the factory like that has the blinders on.
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    Obviously it is his fault for not taking the longer test drive, but IT IS NOT his fault that it vibrates. I think people normally take it for granted that when you are buying a NEW car/truck it is going to be that, NEW. How someone can say it is his fault for poor maintenance I just don't find that reasonable. No vehicle with 15,000 miles should knock, vibrate, rattle, squeak, shimmy, ________ (you put in the problem). I don't care who makes it. Me personally I would have shoved that thing up somebody's [non-permissible content removed] at the the dealership where he bought it until it was fixed.
  • midnight_stangmidnight_stang Member Posts: 862
    I would be mad as heck too, but I would 1st have the dealer fix it under warranty. 2nd taking it up with arbitration to have a replacement. 3rd look into executing the lemon law to have this problem fixed.

    Blanket statements like "2) These trucks are notorious for "jitter" and bounce on the freeway.", or "BE CAREFUL buying a 98 4x4" are not typical, and will not be allowed to be considered as typical traits.

    I've never had the problem, but I would ensure I never would have to deal with it in the first place. I would always take it for a good test drive, even if I special order it. I would always buy the extended warranty, because like insurance, it's better to have it and not use it than to not have it and need it. Finally I would ensure that the powers that be (Ford, the dealership, etc.) would be responsible for a course of action to fix the problem.

    So basically I'm saying it's A Ranger Problem, just not every Ranger's problem.
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