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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, I think the 'fuel pump relay switch' is actually a relay. Kind of a fuse, but not exactly. But I think it is in the underhood 'fuse box' or right by it. The relay for the fuel pump can give intermittant problems. I would identify the relay for the fuel pump and put a new one in.

    I think there may be more than one relay in the box, and they are the same. Cheep diagnoistic - or get you going if you are stranded - switch the fuel pump one with one of the others. But you should replace a bad one.
  • I am kind of "dumb" when it comes to cars and working on them...so, how exactly would I clean the tube? Sorry, and thanks!
  • nienhnienh Posts: 3
    your door adjar switch in the latch is stuck. Lube up with latch with a spray that has a stork so you can stick the stork in the cracks. Then work the door a bunch and it should correct the problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,021
    well all car systems are different and I don't know your car at all...so you'll need to consult a workshop manual on ways to deal with the EGR system...I was just recalling how on some of the cars I owned the tube that feels the exhaust gases back to the manifold got all "coked" up. I had to remove it and ream it out.

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  • cniemanncniemann Posts: 9
    I've got a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0 and it pings under acceleration too. Dealer said same thing, inherent problem.
  • They are great trucks, but being Fords, they have there quirks. Alot of people have problems with the interior dome light and "Door Ajar" light staying on even when all doors are closed, and if you ever run the gas tank completely dry, I mean till the truck stops running, you will ruin the fuel pump and have problems with fuel for the rest of your life. And my alternator went out at about 70k miles, but it kinda happened after i hit a big bump while offroading O:) If you don't want to bring it to a dealer to work on, they are a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to work on yourself, the engine compartment is pretty compact and its hard to reach anything. You can fix the interior light problem by spraying some kind of lube in the door latch, I used a silicon lubricant meant for garage doors but it worked great, then opening and closing the door, gently, a couple times to work it in. Other than that, great trucks.
  • you guys with fuel pump problems, this is prolly dumb since i'm not entirely sure how this all works, but there is a fuel pump kill switch in my 2003 ranger edge just under the dashboard on the passanger side, right by where someones feet would be. could it be possible that someone kicked that switch and now its loose or something? i've personaly never had this problem so i wouldn't know exactly.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    He said he's already wired around the 'inertia switch', which is what you are talking about.

    In general, not a good idea. This switch is there to shut the fuel pump down, and the associated flow of gas out of the tank, in case of an accident.
  • I am in the middle of taking my tank out for a similar reason. I'm guessing road salt has sat up there and rotted out the line or the gasket. What am I about to find? thanks dw
  • Good luck thanks
  • My son has a 1998 ranger and the engine turned off on him and is unable to restart. When you turn the ignition key on you can hear what sounds like the solenoid clicking but the starter does not engage. I checked the battery / connections and it seems to be ok. What are some other things I can check for,possible fuses?
  • tstotlertstotler Posts: 3
    Does your ranger have any power?? Test the voltage on the battery. The battery or the alternator could be shot. If the battery is weak, you will hear fast, quiet clicking but no engaging of the starter. I had a car once where my alternator went bad and I was able to drive for a while before it died. The computer operated ok off of the battery until it drained it completely. I didn't know anything was wrong until the car began to run like crap then it stalled, and I was unable to re-start it. Obviously when I tested the alternator it was bad. The battery was ok but I changed it just to be sure. I suspect this is not your situation but I just wanted to open you up to the possibility.
  • tstotlertstotler Posts: 3
    An update to my initial post.....

    I just had these symptoms yesterday after a rain and a chilly night. I noticed that the fronts didn't grab, just the rears like you had said. Also...the pedal resistance didn't go down. This must have been my imagination from when I was trying to remember the symptoms after a long time. By the way, I rode the brakes for a few feet and they cleared right up. Thanks a lot, you guys have been a real help.
  • I have a 97 Ranger 4.0 v-6... just recently its started to run horribly.. backfiring, hard and low idle, loss of power, etc. Ive had it on the scanner at work, and nothing showed up except once a code came up for the MAF.. saying there was a intermediate short. So i got a new MAF and tried it out.. it didnt do anything (returned it). Me and the other techs have checked it up and down and have not come up with anything. I was Hoping someone on here has come across somthing like this and is able to help me out. Thanks Much. Reed
  • xray5xray5 Posts: 1
    My neighbor has the same kind of truck. The only way I see possible is to remove the intake plenum that is blocking access to those spark plugs. It may look difficult, but it's really not that difficult to perform.

    I wish you well,

    John
  • Well instead of checking the most obvious and easy thing first i struggled for a while.. but finally i started to check the most obvious things ([non-permissible content removed] backwards) but whatever... i found that on cylinder 6 the spark plug's porcelin on the electrode side of it was actually cracked.. and thank god for the moron before me who put bosch platinum 4s in it, because the 4 electrodes on it saved me a new motor, by catching the chunk of porcelin from letting it fall into the cylinder
  • hey all if anyone out there has a 99 ranger with the 4cyl 2.5L 5sp manual i have a bit of advice that i finally used myself...go buy a new truck! i just recently bought a 2005 nissan frontier and it is a big step up! thats not to say you should go buy one, but definately buy a newer ranger, like 05 or 06, or something different. 99 seemed to be the year that Ford shrugged the ranger off when it was asking to be inspected before production. Hope this helps, and again, im not here to be a troll on the forum, just want to make sure people realize that there are much better cars out there for the money...
  • peonyman,

    Did you ever figure out what caused this problem?

    I have a 2003 XLT FX 4X4 SuperCab, that does the exact same thing. :confuse:
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    My 1995 Ranger starts 1 in 10 times! It has the 4.0 liter engine. Sometimes it will start and just barely run or idle (like it's coughing). When it runs it runs fine. Most of the time it runs and starts just fine but it's that one time that makes you wonder. My buddy said it might be the electronic control module. He had a similar problem before. Any thoughts??? :confuse:
  • Rangerboy,
    I don't think I can help you much, but I have a 1994 4.0L V6 @ 95000mi and I have the exact same problem probably. I at first thought it was the vaccum system; but it is very difficult to find leaks--even with a tube test. Today I'm trying out a new fuel filter just to see what happens...
    If somthing works for you let me know
  • rangerboyrangerboy Posts: 36
    Yeah, I replaced my fuel filter and it helped but I'm still having problems. Another strange thing is that when you turn it over the power locks click on and off. I don't know if anyone else might know what causes this??? Today it died when I went to lunch. I was actually driving when it stalled out.
  • geojimgeojim Posts: 2
    My '94 5-speed Ford Ranger truck with 109K miles on it originally belonged to my daughter. Once she got back from Iraq she gave me truck as she could not afford the gas to go back and forth to work. Anyway, the manual transmission now seems to be having a problem and I'm looking for some suggestions as I do not know very much about trucks. The manual transmission has a E97A sticker on it.

    After it warms up, a scraping/rattling noise appears to be coming from the transmission when it is any gear. Goes away in neutral. It also becomes harder to put in gear, especially reverse. I check the fluid level and it's right at the filler plug, although the fluid does look a little dirty. The reservoir under the hood is at the right level.

    Am I looking at major $'s transmission/clutch problems? I could change the fluid if you think that would fix the problem (I know it cannot hurt, but I need to get an idea of the cost involved in repair). Appreciate any suggestions. Jim C.
    __________________
    1993 Geo Metro - 1.0, MT, A/C - 331K Miles
    1992 Acura Integra - 1.8, AT, A/C - 262K Miles
    1994 Ford Ranger - 4.0, MT, A/C - 109K Miles
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    I would have to guess at a clutch/throwout bearing replacement. Doubt that there is anything wrong with the tranny itself.
  • I think the conection to the sending unit is the problem. the same salt that rotted out the line also seems to have disolved the end of the wire harness. Does anyone know if you can buy the end (the connector) or do ya have to replace the entire wire harness? Has anyone jury rigged that connector or am I askin' for real trouble?
  • geojimgeojim Posts: 2
    Thanks. I was hoping it sounded like less than a full transmission rebuild/replacement. Do you have a ballpark idea of what a shop whould charge for a clutch/thowout bearing job?
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Sorry, no idea about a price range. Sorta depends on what actually has to be replaced. If you plan on getting rid of the truck in the next year or so then you may be able to get by without replacing the pressure plate. If I were going to keep it I would replace pilot bearing,clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing along with hydraulics if it is hydraulic clutch. In other words, a complete rebuild.

    On the other hand, it may be something as simple and inexpensive as the throw-out bearing.

    Anyone would just be guessing until the clutch is actually pulled out.......
  • adrian5366adrian5366 Posts: 4
    my 93 ranger 4.0 stx 2wd has been pinging for some time now usually above 65mph and on exceleration. I use super unleaded and still pings, also white smoke comes out when I start it and I have to put in at least a quart a month of transmision fluid , no leaks , it just goes. I read some of the posts and one said to tighten the lower intake manifold bolts, would this help or would it be a waste of time.
  • 1blau1blau Posts: 1
    i just bought a '90 2.3L ranger a few weeks ago and i know this won't help you adrian5366, but i am running a complete fuel system cleaner with this tank of fuel and my rough idle and pinging went away immediately. i don't know if this will help anyone else, but it is an inexpensive thing to try if you have a rough idle. i had replaced PCV valve, checked for vacuum leaks, and replaced EGR valve position sensor with no avail. i am also getting my timing belt done today. this truck had factory timing belt with 178k miles! ouch.
  • omaskateromaskater Posts: 1
    i am pretty new to the whole maintenance part of things on my truck (ford ranger 1999 3.0l v6) and i am wondering if anyone can tell me where the radiator overflow bottle is.
    thanks
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Usually found hanging on the side of the radiator and marked "coolant"
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