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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • yetti8yetti8 Posts: 7
    i was thinking on buying a 97 ford ranger with 240,000 miles is it a smart thing?
  • yetti8yetti8 Posts: 7
    i am thinking on buying a 97 ford ranger with 240,000 miles is it a smart thing?
  • yetti8yetti8 Posts: 7
    i am thinking on buying a 97 ford ranger with 240,000 miles is it a smart thing?
  • commonkocommonko Posts: 4
    OK..so heres the situation. Im in the Army, and my neighbor is deploying to Iraq in 4 days. He has a 2001 Ranger Edge that he will sell me for $1000. 75000 miles. The problem is, there is a loud knocking when the the truck is running. We think it is a piston rod but not sure. We are over here in Hawaii, so everything is a little more expensive, but on average, how much should this cost to repair? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  • Run away! Can you say rip-off? there is no way a 5 year old vehicle needs a complete replace of all brake components. there may be some corrosion of tubes and seals on the calipers. but you must get a second or even a third quote and NOT from their "recommended" shops...
  • 2.3L 5 sd, 196K miles. This is a new one to me. The other day while accelerating onto the freeway my engine bogged way down. I couldn't get any speed increase and a noticeable low drone. After about 20 seconds it just released and started running fine, then it did it again and released again. After that was fine until the next morning when it happened again. I have changed the usual tune-up parts, fuel filter and the muffler. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,650
    Well it'll be the price of a new engine or used engine installed.

    This is a close call, because running well the truck is worth maybe $6,000.

    Generally if there's a bad knock you haven't got much choice---it's not as simple as a valve job.

    I figure you'll be in the hole minimum $1,500 (old used engine found locally, installed by shade tree mechanic) to $4,000++ (remanufactured engine) + whatever shipping costs.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • commonkocommonko Posts: 4
    WOW...theta a little too pricey. So even though it still cranks I would have to get a whole new block? I might have to reconsider.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,650
    Well if it's a real KNOCK...you have a collapsed piston or a bad rod or main bearing. This means internal damage of some sort. it's not a matter of just replacing a few pieces inside, you have to re-bore the cylinders or re-grind the crankshaft.

    You might bring it to a bonafide mechanic and have him/her listen to it...maybe you'll get lucky and it's just a broken crankshaft pulley (this is an external part).

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What motor is this?

    Just to complicate your life - For 4L (the older 4L motor) Rangers in the years of this truck (2001-199?), many had the 'marbles in a tin can' knock/rattle. Especially noticable at idle, going away off idle.

    In all my major reading on Ranger boards, I never found a definitive cause for this. "Piston slap" was one of the big quesses.

    Ford, in general, resisted doing anything under warranty fro this problem. But some people did get a new motor or short block. With the problem, I think, even coming back in the new motor. I think it is some kind of known design problem that Ford did not want to fix. And they brought out the 208hp OHC 4L, which was a totally different in 2002 (I think), and I never heard the 'marbles in a can' problem with this motor.

    The storm of postings about this problem seemes to have died out a lot. (And, I read far fewer message boards about Rangers lately.) And people were posting that they had had the knocking for 30, 40, 50,000 miles and the motor was still running strong.

    Anyway. If this is the 'old' 4L motor, and the knock goes away off idle, I might give it a try at this low, low price.
  • commonkocommonko Posts: 4
    Yea I saw the posts about the marbles. But they mostly concerned up to the 2000 models. Im not to knowledgeable about motors, but it is the 2001 Ranger Edge 2WD 3.0 V6. The knocking is abnormally loud, which concerns me. I haven't seen it run off idle yet, so I'm not really sure if it goes away at all. When I get home Ill check that out. Your right, i wanna jump on it for the price, but i wont be able to afford to drop $3500 for a new block, the labor fees an all.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    What about salvage over there? Rather than a new motor.

    A salvage 3L with 100,000 miles might have quite a few miles left in it.
  • commonkocommonko Posts: 4
    I found a guy today who said the same thing. He said he would find a new motor and drop it in for $2200. So I think I might go with this. He said it would probably be cheaper and easier than messing around and trying to find whats knocking and why, then fixing it on top of that. I dunno. What do you think? Hey, thanks for all the assistance. You fellas have been a big help.
  • i had the same problem with my 99 ford ranger, however mine is not 4x4, but i was driving and all of a sudden the od light came on and i wouldn't shift past 2nd gear, i found out later it was the speed sensor and not the tranny like was dreading it was. its located on top of the rear axle it took like 15 min. to fix and the part was like a 100.00 bucks.
  • I'm experiencing the EXACT same problem with my '01 Ranger with the 4.0 engine, auto trans. The first time it done this, it blew the ignition fuse (#18) and died on the road. Now, it only blows the driver airbag/fan blower fuse (#2). CAN SOMEONE HELP!!! :confuse:
    Thanks in advance for any info or assistance.
  • i thought the price and what they wanted to do was a bit excessive as well. i ended up going to pep boys, which didn't impress me that much either.

    They replaced the front and rear pads and said the front disks needed to be replaced, but didn't claim the front calipers needed replacing. The other shop told me the calipers were shot but they could machine the rotors.

    So, for pep boys, new front rotors, front and rear brakes, machine back drums-around $330 minus $50 instant rebate and $40-so about $240 mail in rebate. I ended up not getting new parking brake cables at pep boys because they were quoting me $50 per cable(needed 2) plus $150 labor. Told them to forget it-for $250 I'll park the truck in gear(it's a manual transmission). Went to NAPA's website and they were charging less than $20 per cable.

    Despite Pepboys not trying to get me to buy new caliper like the other shop(Just Brakes), I still feel like pepboys was trying to take advantage of me. I'd get one call after another from them telling me I needed this or I needed that. All I wanted were some lousy brake pads and shoes.

    This whole experience ticks me off. I can't tell who to trust and who is trying to scam me. I should have just gone with my first instinct and traded the truck in for a new car. At least then I know that I'm dealing with someone who's trying to take advantage of me.
  • I have a 94 ranger 4L v6 and the a/c in it isnt blowing with the force it used to. it still blows cool but when I have it on high it blows like it's on low. could the air intake be clogged somewhere? any advise would be greatly appreciated.
  • moochorbbmoochorbb Posts: 16
    i have a 98 ranger 2.5L 4cyl with 72000 miles. my question is its about that time to change the oil again and i was wondering what type of oil should be used....ive been using 10W30 but i was wondering if there was a better weight that i should be using
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    I'd stay with what the owners manual recommends which is probably the 10W30 unless you are using the vehicle in extreme climatic conditions.
  • kleetuskleetus Posts: 1
    I was in a minor accident, damage limited to front end. I first tried starting my ranger it would but after a little while would cutoff, and each time after that it would stay running for less and less time to where it would not start at all. The engine was also unresponsive to the accelerator. Sounds like a fuel pump problem to me, does it need to be reset?
  • will76will76 Posts: 1
    97 ranger, 2.3/5spd...clutch pedal topped out and engine raced as if onlt partially engaged...pumped pedal approx 8,9 times and now it shifts fine? ...clutch going out?..bypassing slave cylinder?...help? :confuse:
  • tony98tony98 Posts: 1
    :sick: i have a 99 ford ranger 4x4 that will start and run for about 30 secs and cut off and want start again...i found the codes for it which are P0176 fuel compensation sesor and P0122 which is something about TSP pedal position sensor.. can someone help me by telling me where this TSP is located and the best way to replace it....thanks
  • hondo6hondo6 Posts: 1
    Lubricate the door latches with white lithium grease. Look for dirt and "stuff" in latch before spraying with grease. A little is all you need.
    Good luck.

    Hondo6
  • jimbob510jimbob510 Posts: 4
    Posted this under Pinging by mistake. Truck has 67000 mi-never hit. Recently developed a water leak on the driver's side footwell by the kick panel. Coming in the floor by a seam. Pulled the seat & carpet-did not see any drips with a hose running on the cowl area. Any others experience this?
    Jim
  • ernysueernysue Posts: 1
    1987 Ford Ranger King Cab, 5-speed, 128,000 miles. 5 minutes after taking off there is alot of heat coming out from under the dash. Temperature gauge, assuming it still works properly, reads a little above C. Someone said could be the heater core. At present at the highest temp. of thermostats. Radiator has a small leak also. Its becoming hard to start also. Last starter put in has lasted a year to present. Is that normal? Any help, any ideas? Only auto, needs to continue running. Thanks, ernysue
  • I had the same problem with my 94 Ranger. It finally ended up being the mass airflow sensor. It is know to fail in the Ranger. It causes a sluggish acceleration and sometimes dies at idle. I was getting a check engine light, but a check by a diagnostic reader will confirm. It cost me about 90 bucks after returning the core from my old one. It takes about 10 minutes and a flat tip screwdriver to change. Hope this help if you are still having the prob.
  • I have a 2001 XLT 4WD Supercab and have had the clicking noise you describe twice and they were fixed a different way for each occurence. Fix #1 - take the lug nuts and wheels off the front and spray some WD40 on the studs and where the wheel touches the brake rotor being careful not to get any on the surface of the rotor or disk pads.
    Fix #2 - There is a mud flap inside the wheel well that keeps crap from entering the engine compartment. Look and see if you have wear marks on that. If so your tires are rubbing against it when you turn and stick making a clicking noise. If so just stuff the mud flap behind the bar that runs underneath it.
    Hope that fixes you up!!!!
  • I have a 2001 XLT 4WD Supercab and have had the clicking noise you describe twice and they were fixed a different way for each occurence. Fix #1 - take the lug nuts and wheels off the front and spray some WD40 on the studs and where the wheel touches the brake rotor being careful not to get any on the surface of the rotor or disk pads.
    Fix #2 - There is a mud flap inside the wheel well that keeps crap from entering the engine compartment. Look and see if you have wear marks on that. If so your tires are rubbing against it when you turn and stick making a clicking noise. If so just stuff the mud flap behind the bar that runs underneath it.
    Hope that fixes you up!!!!
  • dper299dper299 Posts: 19
    I got a code of p0455 Evap system GROSS leak...My 98 Ranger 4.0 v-6 runs with out the gas cap on..Is this normal? If not any ideas on the problem..Could it be the evap cannister purge valve?How can you tell if it's bad? Mine seems to be always open??? Thanks for any help
  • i have a 98 ford reanger and everything works perfectly except that i have the check engine light on and i took it to get it checked and i got a p1506 and a p1133 code. the problem is that they don't know what the codes mean so if some knows what i can do to fix that let me know please.
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