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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • :sick: Hello everyone. My name is Peter and my ranger is in desperate need of help. I have a problem when I start my 1996 ranger with a 3.0 v-6 engine. the gauges all look normal. After a few seconds of idal the oil gauge goes crazy I mean like spinning completely around in circles and there is a sqeaking type sound coming from what I think is the engine compartment. I dont know if it is a bad sensor or if the oil pump is going out which I hope to god it isn't. Or I was wonder if taking the valve cover's off and cleaning out the cylinders might work. Im not sure which one is the right place to stop and Im working with very little cash and time. If anyone has had this problem or know's what it might be please email at nmdaso11@yahoo.com. If anyone can help me get my rig running again I would appreciate it. Also one other thing I left out from above. when the oil pressure gauge is going crazy on me the check gauge light flickers on and off.
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,032
    A national newspaper is looking to interview consumers who have decided to hold on to their current pickup truck, rather than purchasing a new one. Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, August 9, 2006 by 2:30 PM PT/5:30 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and what pickup truck you currently own.

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • Look I don't know If anyone can help but I sure hope so. I live in North Carolina and from 1996 and up they have an emissions test and if you dont pass no inspection and if it goes for 4 months dead 250.00 fine. I had 4 codes and they were PO171.po340.po440,po342.. So I went and tore truck apart replaced plugs, wires, coil packs, all vacuum hoses,throttle body,camshaft position sensor,fuel filter,air filter,emulator. And drove truck 100 miles to get new codes of PO171, Po340, So then I changed the oil and filter and drove another 100 miles and still the same codes. Does anyone know what I can do to correct the problem and by the way is there an easier way to reset the computer other than having to drive 100 miles everytime.
  • benz208benz208 Posts: 1
    I am replacing the timing chain on a 2000 Ranger with the 3.0L V6 and am wondering if anyone knows how to move the power steering pump bracket out of the way so you can remove the timing cover.
  • jdbbjdbb Posts: 1
    I have a 1987 ranger xlt 2.9l v6 and the problem is it idles
    rough and bloes out black smoke when you rev it up,I replaced the computer and 2 o2 sensors and it ran great until today and it is the same problem over again can anyone
    give me any advice whst could be causing this problem again.

    thanks,jmm
  • Have a 2001 4 banger, man 88K miles. I have somewhat the same problemsas # 95, or at least it sounds the same. a funny pinging or rattling coming from under the hood when stresed by hills or high RPM. No funny noises when engine is cold though. Anyone have this problem before and if so whats the fix?
    Thanks.
  • 4x4rang4x4rang Posts: 2
    i have an 03 rang 4x4, when shifting (especially from 1st to 2nd gear) i get a sort of clunking sound that sounds like its coming from the clutch maybe. im sure this cant be normal. my question is could this be a trans problem or something to do with the clutch? it only does this when upshifting, not down if that makes a difference. figured i'd ask before i trust a mechanic to do something to it so if anyone has some good advice on what it could be, i'd greatly appreciate it.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    It's 'pinging', which is uneven burning of the gas charge across the piston when it fires.

    A tune-up, plugs and wires, might help.

    Otherwise, higher octane gas is about the only solution.

    I don't think I've ever read a complaint about pinging on a 4 cylinder. This usually is a problem with the 3Liter V6.
  • Hey all - I just bought a 1987 Ford Ranger - absolutely terrific shape - from the brakes to underside - engine runs great (2.9L V6) - I'm very pleased (the guy is moving and I got it for $1200... new toolbox included!). ANyhow - the only malfunction is that the manifold is cracked - and will need replaced soon. I have the part located at several junkyards for about $35. How much should I look to spend on labor, seals , etc? I'm guessing it isn't an easy job based by the JB Weld type of material on the currebt crack. Also - As I face the truck - the manifold that is cracked is on the left - is that what I need, a left manifold? Or would it be the side it is on as I sit in the driver's seat (In other words - the right)?

    Thanks...
    Bob
  • joeg4joeg4 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger with 4.0 liter engine and 5 speed auto transmission then tachomer does not work any solutions?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Right and left in cars is always as view when you are in the driver's seat.

    Right is the 'passenger' side'
    Left is the 'driver' side.

    You need a right manifold.
  • garycoxgarycox Posts: 59
    I just had new tires placed on my 2002 Ford Ranger, Goodyear 225/70/15 Republic Invader tires. It vibrated at high speeds with the old tires but they were worn anyway and needed replaced. The vibration continues with the new tires and the balance has been checked twice. I can feel it starting at about 50mph. It doesn't shake the steering side to side it seems more of an up and down sort of shake but it's hard to tell.

    Any ideas?
  • Aloha. My 2001 Ranger ABS light came on last week. It stayed on for about 5 miles and then when I turned the engine off and restarted it, it was off and stayed off...for about 8-10 miles, but then it came on and has stayed on ever since. The brakes seem to be working normally. A friend of mine took the truck's wheel off to visually check the brakes and he said that they looked OK. I called a repair shop and they said that I needed to take it to a dealer. Is this something that I should be concerned about? I do like the idea of having a braking capability when I drive.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    On older models with 2-wheel ABS, the light could come on when the brake fluid was low. Usually only when the brake was pushed.

    In any case, check your fluid level.

    ABS is complicated, requires different procedures to even 'pull the codes', etc. That probably why the shop did not want to work on it.
  • The first thing I did was check the fluid level and it was filled. The day before the light came on, I was pulling a trailer with a full 150 gal sprayer on some pretty rough uneven pot-holed roads (out here in lava land), so I thought maybe some indicator wire was jarred loose. I really hate to take the thing to the dealer because my wallet will more than likely go into shock.....but I also need to get my car fixed. The ABS light is illuminated all the time now...whether I am braking or not.
  • when I drive my truck for an hr or so it wont start right away...it needs 5 min or so to start again...VERY ANNOYING!
  • Check your relays!
  • 4x4rang4x4rang Posts: 2
    have an 03 rang(4x4 4.0L v6) and it makes a sort of clunking noise when i shift, mainly from 1st to 2nd. it only has 28k miles on it so i find it hard to believe the clutch is going already. just wanted to know if anyone else experienced this problem or knows the fix.
  • i am trying to change the fuel filter on my 2001 ranger. i think i have bought every fuel line dissconnet made and i still can not get the filter off. the end that faces the engine has too small of a neck to put a tool on. anyone else have this problem? i think the tool sizes for that are 5/15 and 3/8? i will greatly appreciate any help! thanks!!!
  • It takes a special tool to get inside the housing. It sounds like you might have got one already. You got to work at it pretty hard to get it off of there if it's like my 1995 Ranger. Should be a metal housing on the side facing the engine right?
  • i think the all the housings are pastic with colored clips inside them. the tool is supposed to slip in there and release the clips so you can pull it off. the one closest to the engine there is no way you can slip a tool to release that one. from the edge of the filter to the edge of the plastic housing there is like 1/4 inch to work w/. it doesn't seem like it should be this hard. please help if you can. thanks
  • I know it's a bear to get if off of there! The one toward the fuel tank has a clip that is plastic that I just used a pair of pliers to get it off with. The side toward the engine also has a keeper that is u-shaped and metal I believe. You got to get that off of there before you can work the special tool in the housing. I think I just used a flat head screwdriver and pliers on it. My filter is inside a grooved holder that holds it in place. I think I got it loose before I got the connection toward the engine removed I don't remember. I have a special tool with a rubber band that I slipped into the connection toward the engine and really slammed it into that housing repeatedly. I actually thought it broke when it finally released! I'm guessing the filters haven't changed much over the years but I might be wrong. Mine is metal and pretty good sized. I hope this helps.
  • Im a flooring guy...I dont know what a relay is....could you please tell me more ..thx for responding ...FRUSTRATED
  • landdriverlanddriver Posts: 607
    I'm a house renovator but will answer the best I can -- a relay is an electrically activated switch -- you supply current to it's coil, and the resulting magnetic field pulls one or a set of contacts so as to either make, or break, electrical contact. It's used in applications where it's impractical or dangerous for a relatively large electrical current to pass through a standard mechanical switch. An example is a car ignition switch where you turn the key to start the engine -- the current for the starter motor does not pass through the ignition switch -- rather, the ignition switch energizes the starter relay in the engine compartment, and the current for the starter motor passes through the relay contacts.

    :shades:
  • adoado Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger that has starting problem. when i start it up the rpm doesn't stay, it just dies. But if i step on the accelator before it dies there is a chance that the rpm would stay. sometimes i have to hold accelator for like 3-4 min to get normal rpm. if can sombody help me tx in advance
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A guess - you have 2 temperature sensors.

    1 is used for the temperature guage. I think this one has 1 wire to it.

    The second is used to tell the 'computer' if the water temp is 'warmed up'. In other words, is the motor hot or cold. I think this sensor is bad, and it has 2 wires to it. (These wires may be twisted together and one may be yellow/black stripe.) The computer thinks it is doing a hot start and does not increase the fuel thru the injectors, something that is needed on a cold start. After the motor does warm up, it run ok.
  • Hey, Mcann, i don't know if you fixed your problem already or not, but it is the IAC valve (idle air control). I had a 98 ranger 2.5L and had one go out, and have had 2 go out on my 2K ranger 2.5L

    Hope this helps

    GasGas321
  • Hey Ado,

    I had the same problems, and i believe you have the same problem as mcann. The idle air control valve controls idle, helping keep it up when cold, and down when warmed up
  • hey, i had a similar problem in my 2K ranger 2.5L my speed sensor in my rear diff. went out, and my abs kept turning on and the abs light was stuck on. I put a new one, and it still didn't fix it. I cleaned all of my blinker and brake light terminals in the front and back of the truck, and weird, but true, it fixed the abs light and problem. I had a bad ground, and it was grouinding backl through my abs.

    GasGas 321
  • Just an update, I replaced the Goodyear tires with Cooper made Mastercraft tires and they are running smooth. So the problem was with the Goodyear tires... Gary
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