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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • My truck was doing that inconcsistently for some time. Eventually I found two vacuum leaks that were a result of hoses that the Dealership (Rusty Eck Ford, Wichita, KS) never hooked back up after warranty work. On was on the back of the left (Drivers) cylinder head on my 4.0 SOHC.
  • i decided to buy a tech book on my trans. at least i know what the problem is now. my truck is a 2 wheel drive and the tss sensor is what is causing my problem the only bad part is this sensor is inside mounted to the center support drum to bad this isn't a 4X4 they are mounted outside the transfer case. anyway i do apriciate the few replies i did get. by the way this book shows all the sensors and location for differant transmission problems i didn't realize that almost every sensor in this truck is somehow connected to the trans. circuit until i got this book, with the exception of the abs sensor in the differental this book covers mid to late 90's 4R44E,4R55E yall have a great day
  • i have a 94 ranger which i have had a clutch go in it. had a new clutch,slave cyclinder,pressure plate,and throw out bearing replaced....$800....... was told it's ready to go! picked it up...drove about a block and the throttle stuck.. i pulled over and shut it off. when i tried to restart it .it turned over but would not start. towed back to garage they got it started after about 3 hours(just started on it's own they don't know why or did anything to it)picked it back up drove about 5 miles with the throttle sticking(like cruise control) also when i went to shift engine tacked out and would gring the gears shifting.........stopped a store for coffee came out and would not start.........came back about 3 hours later started right up, but still the same problems with the throttle and the clutch......any help would be appreciated......... is this a mulitple problem or are they related? ps with the clutch in seems to be still in gear(on a hill can push the cluth to the floor,won't roll, take it out of gear , it rolls

    thanks in advance
    blaise77777
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Why are you asking for advice here?

    Didn't all these problems started when they did the clutch job? Apparent when you drove the truck away from the shop?

    Sound like they messed up the throttle cable linkage, the clutch (hydrolic) isn't bled correctly, and who knows why it won't start.

    Demand they tow your truck back to the shop and they fix all these problems.
  • basically i'm here because the garage dosen't know what is wrong. i'm trying to get some info that might give them a clue. and no i just can't afford to take it to another garage. just looking for some suggestions from you pros
    blaise
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    Well it's THEIR problem...if the truck honestly ran and started well when it went in, then they can figure it out...you don't have to. Every garage has a bad day, and this is theirs. Certainly the clutch problems are theirs to fix at no charge, and probably the throttle--they probably bent or misaligned something. As for the no start, it's possible this is a co-incidence and you two might have to work that out.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you might look at some of the harness wires going down to the under side of the truck it is possible they might have pinched a wire causing it to short out when they installed the clutch and if they did they might have seen it and got it free but still can cause a problem.
  • The throttle sticking can be the problem of the no start. On most you can kill the ignition by opening the throttle. it cuts the signal to the coils when the throttle is all the way down before you start crank the engine.
  • I have a 94 Ford Ranger that after driving for 5 mins or so the volt guage on the dash go to a no charge condition as in it flutters back and forth and the head light and dash lights go dim when it stops charging. In thinking that the altenator was going south I installed a new one and had the same problem. Have been told that the plug going to the alternator, battery cables,ignition switch and brain box could all be going out. Engine temp makes no difference. If I shut off the truck and pull the key out it runs just fine after start up for about 5 mins
  • I replaced the switch and it fixed the problem. :) The switch in the passenger door and the remote switch worked (lock and unlock both), that is what told me the driver door switch was bad. It was somewhat intermittant prior to failing completely. Seems to me, it would also lock, but not unlock. Switch had to be bought from Ford, so it was pricy. Replacing it was much easier than I originally thought. It is snapped in place, two plastic springs, one on each end. I carefully slipped a putty knife under one end, put pressure on the spring, pulled up a little, then with a straight screwdriver under the putty knife, pushed the spring in. The switch popped right out in less than 30 seconds. Un-connect the connector, attach new switch and snap into place. Whole process took less time than getting the screwdriver and putty knife from the basement. If you are sure it is the switch, I suggest you buy one first, that will give you an idea as to where to apply pressure against the springs to pop it off. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, you don't want to break the plastic.

    Good luck! ;)
  • joeg4joeg4 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 ranger with a 4 liter engine, it is a standard engine, what is the horsepower rating?
  • My bf added too much of incorrect atf to my truck. it had been running great except for when I reached about 60mph, o/d shuts itself off and o/d flashes. when I slow down after this, it shifts very hard. I drained atf, replace filter, etc but still having same issue. Think maybe it is the speed sensor? Any ideas? Also need location of sensor that is causing this...THANKS BUNCHES!
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you might try putting in a new speed sensor depending on where you get one, the price runs from $20 to about $30 i live in florida and i can get one at the dealer for $28 + tax
  • rydayryday Posts: 6
    i installed the fipk on my 02 ranger last friday and i have noticed a performance difference but i am having a little problem.

    i'm hearing a screeching noise as i'm driving when the gas pedal is in a certain position. (i know, weird) everything sounds normal when the pedal is before that certain spot or after it and i cant get it to make the noise when not driving and sitting in the driveway when i could actually look for the source.

    anyone else have this issue or an idea of what i could look for? its really driving me nuts. :cry:
  • I had a similar problem but it involved fuse #10 blowing. My problem was the wire running down through the shifter lever into the column. It had been worn away by all the turning in there and the wire really isn't protected. Before you go buy a bunch of stuff try opening the column (not hard)and only if you have the overdrive button on the end. That little wire might be snapped and your just lucky it isn't shorting other stuff out like it was on mine (airbag light stayed on, fan blower and reverse lights didn't work etc...

    Good luck and please post if it helped at all!

    :shades:
  • errrr #2 10 amp fuse

    ;)
  • umbraumbra Posts: 1
    My 94 Ranger 3.0 standard shift is having starter trouble. I went to start it and it sounded like the starter stripped it's teeth. I pulled it, replaced it and checked the flywheel for missing teeth. It will start now, but starter just spins at times until I turn the crank a bit, then the starter catches. No missing teeth on starter or flywheel and battery checks out fine. Anyone have any ideas?
  • Hello there hutch, I was experiencing the same problem with my ranger.You might want to replace the battery cables. This was my cure and even started better and little more power

    WB
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    sounds like a weak solenoid or connection
  • :mad: Hi,I am wondering how you eliminate the internal engine noise at 2500rpm...
    Katherine.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    You replied to a message from Oct, 2002. Almost 4 years old. I doubt that person is still reading the forum......
  • rydayryday Posts: 6
    i noticed my problem is happening around 2500rpm as well. is yours a metal shrieking sound?

    (see my above post for the rest of this)
    I called the support number for k&n and was told that this horribly wrong noise was "normal". he said it was a normal intake noise that had been muffled by the stock intake.

    i think he's full of it so I think i'm going to try putting the stock intake tube in and see if maybe its just the k&n intake tube since its made of cheap plastic. though the plastic wouldn't really account for a metalic shrieking noise.
  • No, I don't have any sounds at all, just a heavy shifting when the o/d goes off. I have found the issue with this though, it is the cable shift adjustment next to the tranny pan because when I hold up on the gear shift, the issue does not occur even up to 75 mph...
    Sandi
  • Hey i have a 97 ranger with manual locking 4x4 hubs and when i turn on the 4wheel drive and lock the hubs, i get some big problems when turning. straight driving is fine but when i turn it sounds like a big crunching sound from the front wheels. almost sounds like i snapped drive joint and sometimes locks up the brakes or stops the wheel from turning. Have any ideas to what this is???? Need more info please ask me specifics. Thanks alot
  • The truck stops fine (most of the time)on occassion and its becoming more frequent just prior to a complete stop the pedal goes down with a mushy almost vibrating feeling and I keep rolling ahead 2-3 feet.
    I had a new M/cylinder and ABS Module installed yesterday and a major brake job 2 mos ago. The brake booster is good and there are no vacuum leaks or fluid leaks.
    I twice mentioned air in the lines, this was dismissed by the mechanic as he said that has been done.
    A scan shows everything ok.

    Help please...
    Thks for your advice.

    Dave
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    sounds like you have a bearing problem in one of the front axels the best way to check it is lift the front end and see if the wheel has play in it by moving it up and down or side to side, hope this helps
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    it does sound like air in the lines,and the vibration might be a high spot on the rotors. it might be a good idea to have a second opinion just to be safe
  • I bought a 90 ranger 4 cyl. I've had it serviced (LOF), Xmission and a tune up. The mechanic scanned the engine and found no problems. Intermittently it has low power, and a strong sulphur smell. Oh yeh I've had the cat converter checked and it's OK
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Have you driven any other 4 cylinder Rangers of about this age (because I think the newer 4 cyl have considerable more horsepower)???

    I've only drive 1 4 cyl Ranger, about a 1993, and it was slow and underpowered.
  • I understand that a 4 cyl Ranger is underpowered, but I mean it is seriously under powered intermittently because there is an intermittent problem. I'm asking if anyone has a suggestion and/or experienced this.
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