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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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  • I noticed my the theft light on my ranger started to flash rapidly when the car was running, it has become increasingly difficult to start at times, yesterday after I parked it for about 2 hrs. it would not start, I checked to see if it had fuel pressure and it did, I checked to see if there was spark to the spark plug but there was none. When I turned the key on the theft light flashed was flashing rapidly and the vehicle would not start. I replaced the coil but it made no difference. I disconnected the battery and re connected it, that did not help either. The battery had plenty of power to turn the engine over but there was no fire to the plugs, I finally had the vehicle towed after a couple of hrs. of trying. I also noticed that my power door locks were not operating properly recently. Today I went out to see if I could try something else that might fix the problem, but I wanted to make sure the vehicle was still not working, when I turned the key the vehicle started and ran just fine, there was no flashing theft light and it started the first time. Is there anyone who has experienced this problem? If so did you find a solution, is there any way to disable the theft system to prevent this from happening again? Thanks
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you might check the rest of the exaust i had a problem with one some years ago the pipe was colapsed inside, put your hand over the exaust in the back of the truck and make sure there is a lot of pressure comming out. also you might want to check the PCV valve that can also cause a lot of crankcase pressure buildup if it is bad
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    have you had this problem before? if so you might try checking the temperature sensor it can cause a lot of problems. hope this helps!
  • Check your relays in the engine compartment. Sounds like the relays or a connection to the relay box.
  • The dash warning lights came on in my '94 Ranger 5-spd. Has no effect on braking, the reservoir is full, no burned-out bulbs, and the parking brake switch feels normal. What other events cause the warning lights to stay on? Thanks. :confuse:
  • Very boring, I know, but in need of help. Similar to #1178, wet floor board on driverside. 2 visits to the dealer & $800 later, still wet (not as bad). Any ideas? :confuse: Best place to take the truck for diagnosis-as dealer is dumb & blind. :mad:
    Don't want to sell it , but don't want to live with it either.
    Thanks-Jim
  • have you had the heater core checked or replaced? also you might take the metal panel under the wiper arms off and look for pluged drain holes, if it's a plastic panel it could be cracked and that could cause the problem.
    hope this helps!
  • I have a 2000 Ford Ranger; 101+k miles. Last week while driving down the road, I felt a severe banging and jerking under the vehicle, so I had it towed. The mechanic installed a new power steering pump and some seals. I still get some funny noise and pulsing (similar to the original experience, but less severe), predominately from the front right side of the vehicle. It happens seemingly randomly; comes and goes. The brake peddle pulses if I press on it while this is occuring. If this behavior is not occuring, then the braking is fine.
  • I’m in desperate need of some repair advice on my 1994 Ford Ranger (4 cyl, 5 speed manual transmission, 160,000 miles on it). I was on the freeway driving to work (about 65 mph) and the truck just died. I’d suspected I was going to need to have some transmission work done in the near future, but was caught off guard when it just coasted to a stop on the shoulder.

    I had it towed to a Ford dealer that told me it was going to cost around $600 just to diagnose the problem. I asked how that could be possible and was told that due to the age of the truck it was going to be more difficult to diagnose than what a newer model would be. Obviously, the truck is not worth much more than $600 in running condition (blue book value), but considering that I can’t really afford a new vehicle right now, I don’t see where I have much choice but to try to have it fixed.

    Can someone tell me if the dealer is even close to being reasonable in quoting $600 to diagnose the problem? This just seems outrageous to me. Thanks for any insight or help anyone can offer.

    Pat
    Houston, Texas
  • are you trying to drive on dry on dry ground
  • it is a saftey feature on late model rangers for some reason
  • I have a 2001 XLT 4x4 off road version. Lately the brakes have been acting up. If I am coming to a stop while turning hard left the brakes seem to go mushy for the last few feet. Almost seems as if the ABS has been activated. Only happens just prior to stopping so the speed is quite low but if there were an object in front of me at the time, I'm sure I would hit it. I had the brakes re-done about a year ago (new rotors, pads and shoes) by the corner garage. Seemed to work good till just recently. Anyone know what's up with this situation?
  • I just got the front ball joint issue diagnosed on my 01 today. The squeeking is pretty much an annoyance at this point but the shop wanted nearly $1000 for parts and labor to replace both upper and lower ball joints on both sides. I think this is one of those jobs I am going to do myself and make sure I use the joints with the zirc fittings on them.
  • Hey,

    See my message # 2387, after much screwing around by two garages
    1. New Master cylinder, no charge, no diagnosis ($519.00)
    2. New ABS unit , no charge, no diagnosis ($679.00)
    3. Forced to go to Ford dealership (against my better judgment)found to be the left front sensor in wheel hub assy.
    Sensor can't be replace alone...new wheel hub assy $650.00.
    Problem solved so far.

    Your symptoms sound very similiar to mine.

    Let me know and good luck,
  • when they get a little mushy does your brake pedle kick back a little? i had a problem close to what you are describing it turned out to be a bad front axel bearing causing the brake rotor to bind and made my brakes mushy but not all the time. hope this helps
  • I have been having this same problem on my '99 Mazda B3000...the oil pressure guage doesn't work until the engine is warmed up....and the check engine light stays on until the guage begins working....I haven't looked that closely, but am sure it's just a problem with the oil sensor.....Did you find out where they are located?....Thanks....tekman88@yahoo.com
  • I own a 2000 Ford Ranger XLT SuperCab (55K miles) with a four cylinder manual (5sp) tranny. This problem started about 2 months ago. Every 10 days to 2 weeks after the truck has sat a day or more, I'll try to start it - the engine will crank but it won't turn over. This last time I noticed that when I stopped cranking, the Check Engine light came on. The weird thing is that if I leave it alone for 1 - 3 hours, it'll start up normally & run fine again for about a week or two and then the same thing happens on a cold start. The battery is relatively new. I had the IAC valve replaced on it about a year ago but those problem symptoms were different. My mechanic couldn't replicate this problem so he was unable to diagnose it. :confuse:

    Any thoughts or ideas as to where the problem(s) may lie are welcome! Thanks!
  • sounds like the fuel pressure is bleeding off after it sets a while, when you let it set a few days again there is a valve toward the front of the fuel rail it has a stem inside just like a stem on a wheel push it in and see if it has any pressure in the fuel system, if it doesn't then it is bleeding off pressure and has to pump fuel back up to the rail. and it will have some air in the line causing it to be harder to start. hope this helps
  • first of all i must say is take it somewhere else!!! $600 is outragious.. just because it is older doesn't mean it should cost more.. never go to the dealer. if you feel like its a transmission problem goto a trans shop first. but NO it should not cost more than $100 to check.
  • Yes. It kicks back like ABS would only a bit weaker. And it only happens at very low speeds when my steering is cranked to the left. Feels like I have next to no braking power at the same time. Sound like the same thing still?
  • Whoops....I thought you were replying to the problem I posted. I'm a newbie here and am just figuring out how this site works. I'll re-post my original problem and maybe you can consider the symptoms
  • Wookie1....here it is.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    yep sounds just the problem i had!
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    when you change them look at the zerk fittings see if they are brass, if they are change them!!! i have changed several parts and they all had brass fittings i could not get any of them to take greese
    happy new year!
  • sfmx19sfmx19 Posts: 2
    2005 Ranger, 2.3L, 5 spd auto. Here's one my dealer can't figure out. Any help would be appreciated. After vehicle is warmed up I get a whistling / hissing noise under deceleration. If I "blip" the throttle it will often go away. Seems to originate from left underside (most noticable if drivers door is opened slightly while coasting). Does not go away completely when stopped so it is not tires or wind noise. The colder the ambient temperature the worse it gets. Am thinking possibly transmission or fuel pump (gas tank is left side center of vehicle) but no other symptoms related to these items. This promlem is intermittent but getting worse. Any thoughts?
    Thanks.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Well, what has been called a loud 'humming' noise is sometimes made by a dirty Idle Control Valve on older trucks.
  • ken442ken442 Posts: 2
    I had to replace the clutch master cylinder and did everything i was supposed to- by the book- and it still is not engaging /disengaging. Slave cylinder and Clutch have been replaced with in the last year... I have been working at this all night and am very frustrated....Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
  • ken442ken442 Posts: 2
    I had to replace the clutch master cylinder and did everything i was supposed to- by the book- and it still is not engaging /disengaging. Slave cylinder and Clutch have been replaced with in the last year... :cry: I have been working at this all night and am very frustrated....Anyone have any ideas or suggestions? :sick:
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    try gravity bleeding. make sure the cylinder is full then without pushing the pedal down open the bleeder on the slave cylinder watch for fluid after fluid starts running out then tighten it up and see if you have any pedal, repeat this step a couple of times and it should start to come up. hope this helps
  • so my ranger has been actin up lately since i replaced a couple of lights in the steering wheel and had to take off the air bag in order to connect them back up...now the horn doesnt work when u hit the steering wheel like it should. if i use the remote and hit the panic button it'll still go off so i know that it isnt a problem w/ the horn itself, and i checked the fuses and they all look fine. please let me know cuz im puzzled by this one. any suggestions?????
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