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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • misterratmisterrat Posts: 4
    I just bought a used 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab this week. I have noticed two annoying noises, and was wondering if anyone else has heard them. The first is a rhythmic thumping sound coming from the front wheels/tires at speeds under 40 mph. There seems to be some rolling resistance associated with the thumping. I wonder if there might be a problem with the front brakes? The second noise is a loud clicking sound coming from the A/C compressor. I looked under the hood, and I noticed that every 30 seconds or so, the A/C compressor makes a loud click sound and then stops. A few seconds later it makes another, louder click sound and starts again. This double click sound repeats over and over again until I turn the climate control knob to a non-A/C selection, or turn the temperature control knob to a warmer selection. Is it normal for the A/C compressor to cycle on and off like that? If so, is it possible to get rid of the loud clicking noise?
  • misterratmisterrat Posts: 4
    My 2000 Ford Ranger XLT Extended Cab 4 door has a problem on the passenger side. The front and rear doors were hung a 1/4 inch too high and the rear door latches don't match up with the body of the truck. This causes a clunking sound whenever I drive over a bump in the road due to the rear door latches being off kilter. Is this something Ford will fix under warranty. How hard is it to rehang the doors properly? How long do you think it will have to be in the shop? Has anyone else had a similar problem with their 4 door Ranger? Thanks.
  • rta3rta3 Posts: 4
    In response to mess.#88,I believe you can get the options your looking for by starting off with an XL and build from there,but would have to be specially ordered from the factory through the dealer. It could take six to eight weeks maybe longer for delievery.Sorry for the late response I just got onto this forum.
  • frey44frey44 Posts: 230
    i also have a 2000 Ranger (4x4, 4.0 liter, auto). it is a busy compressor, and cycles a lot. thatos why i do most of my driving without AC. it just eatds more gas anyways. i prefer the windows down, when possible. as far as door alignment, that should be no problem. the doo hinges are desingned sot that they can be merely lossened (bolts thru a slotted opening) and the hinge-door assembly moved and adjusted. it shouldn't take more than 45 inutes of shop time to adjust doors, unless the vehicle was wrecked, and the door jams are sprung.
  • dcrislerdcrisler Posts: 118
    My 94' Mazda B4000LE Cabplus(Ranger), I looked for a Mazda tread on edmunds but did not find one. Reading this one has been enlightening.

    It seems I have had the driveshaft problem since about 30k miles (111k now)! Truck has been great other that the driveshaft clunk. Until now, started it up on friday, and it ran like it was on 3 cylinders... reving it up to 3k or so smooths it out, and after awhile stays that way. however it comes and goes... including dieing completely on the highway or at lights. Since it has the distributorless ignition, I think it has to be the comnputer or the coil unit. Has anyone else seen this. Also I noticed someone else mentioned using K&N filters... my tank of gas went 40 miles further with a change to a new K&N filter.
  • cpousnrcpousnr Posts: 1,611
    Well, normal noise for a Ranger.

    The clicking is the AC relay, if you have the selector in the first detent to the right, it runs AC off and on with the blower. Read the manual to find the selections without AC.

    The curchunk or thump noise, well, my 99 has done that since new and now have 45K.
    No problems with it, just something it does.
  • FROM LIQUID TO SOLID IN BLINK OF EYE, MATERIAL QUIETS CAR AC


    In the 1961 Disney classic "The Absent-Minded Professor," actor Fred MacMurray played a professor who developed a black gooey substance dubbed Flubber, enabling his Ford Model T to challenge the laws of gravity and fly. Ford Motor Company scientists now are experimenting with a different black gooey substance that also seems to transcend the normal laws of physics. This new material has the unique ability to change viscosity on command. While Ford's gooey substance or magnetorhelogical material (MR material), the official lab name, won't enable cars to fly, it can behave as a free-flowing liquid, a paste-like solid, or anything in between, switching properties in the blink on an eye when a magnetic field is applied. Ford is experimenting with the use of MR material in air-conditioning compressors as a way to subdue the audible clicking that occurs when the clutch engages and disengages. The MR material allows the clutch to gradually engage, providing a smoother, less noisy contact or "soft start." When the clutch disengages, the material reverts from the solid "locked-up" state to a fluid to let the clutch slip out of contact. This soft engaging and disengaging of the clutch also makes power surges from the engine less noticeable, a condition typically felt in vehicles equipped with small displacement engines.


    http://media.ford.com/article_display.cfm?article_id=7941


    So like Mr Brown says above, it's probably a normal sound of the clutch engaging or disengaging.

  • ebbgreatdaneebbgreatdane Posts: 278
    But it doesn't sound like your Thumping noise is. It could be a number of things but you are right to suspect the brakes but it could also be something simple.

    Does it come from both sides or just one? If its from both then you should suspect that the problem is bigger than you and have the dealer check it out.

    If it's just from one side (i.e., driver front tire), don't begrudge the simple stuff. Start by checking your tires for nails. The heads will make a thumping noise as they go round. Is the wheel in balance? After those things, I would default to the brakes but more specifically the rotors. If you've racked up a lot of miles already, have the brakes checked (changed if needed) and if the brakes need new pads or shoes, have them turn the respective rotor or drum.

    Good Luck,
    John
  • dcrislerdcrisler Posts: 118
    found the problem... bought a cheap code scanner and found a bad maf (mass airflow sensor), replaced it and all ok.
  • gerichogericho Posts: 11
    My 1989 Ranger supercab is in very good condition but the carpet on the driver's side gets wet when the vehicle is out in the rain. It occurs every time the truck is driven or parked in the rain. This is water and not other fluid. The dealer could not find a cause of the leak. I also had a glass shop check the windshield seals. The door drain holes are open. I put silicone sealant on the gutter above the door without benefit. Anyone experience this problem or have any ideas?
  • csargeantcsargeant Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Ranger XLT 4-door 4wd and the speedometer act erratically. I can be driving down the road at the speed limit and all of a sudden it jumps to 100mph and just hangs there. I took it to the dealership and of course it didn't do it for them and they said they couldn't find anything wrong. Any suggestions????
  • cpousnrcpousnr Posts: 1,611
    More than likely the spedo sensor.
    Think it is down on the wheel.
    Its electronic not a cable.
    That is what fixed my wifes LEbaron that had the same problem.
  • dle01dle01 Posts: 37
    I have a 1999 Ranger 4 door 2WD with the 3.0V6 and automatic transmission. The truck has just over 40k on it, which puts it out of warranty. I recently noticed a small oil leak, and asked my favorite local repair shop (a Goodyear ASC) to take a look at it while the truck was in for an oil change last week. They inform me that the leak is coming from the main seal between the engine and transmission, and that the transmission will have to be removed to replace the seal. In addition, they tell me they have seen this frequently in Rangers, most recently on a 2000 model with just 15k.

    Has anyone experienced this problem before? If it is a common problem, what are my chances of getting Ford to fix it even though the truck is out of warranty? Are there any known Technical Service Bullitins or recalls for this problem?

    I am going to fix it regardless, but I think it is pretty absurd that this kind of problem is occurring on a truck this new. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • If it's small, just put a dab of silicone on it. Unless you like spending money.

    Is it me or does it seem those who double post never check back?
  • dle01dle01 Posts: 37
    midnight_stang -- I have been checking back frequently. Thanks for your advice on the silicone. I'm going to check with the dealer first, and if no response then I just might try it.

    Is double posting some kind of bad net ettiquite thing? If so, I'm sorry.
  • I'm not sure how bad your main seal leak is, but all gaskets just wear out eventually. Try working with header gaskets on a 460 big block in a 67 mustang! I probably replace one side or the other twice a year.
    The silicone is what I'd do if the dealer makes you pay. Because all you have to do is spray a little carb cleaner or other grease cutter on the under side, start 'er up, and see where it comes from. Then you take a hefty amount of silicone and make a seal around the leak. It should take 15 minutes and 3 bucks, with that method. I also don't think there's any Ranger typicality or TSB related to it, or spoog would have posted it by now... (See Ranger vs Tacoma forum):)
  • Midnight -
    You cracked me up with the spoog comment. How true it is.

    Oil Leak -
    I'm not sure how long the silicon will last you down there. Definitaley it won't hurt but check it once a year. Heckuva lot cheaper and less problematic than letting your dealer dip into your tranny.

    How large is the leak? If it's say between 1 and 2 drips per day, try the silicon and make sure to degrease that area once every other month or so. Is this an automatic? If so, oil not degreased from those surfaces will adhere to the metal and collect dirt causing your transmission and motor to not be able to dissapate heat properly (i.e., it starts to act like insulation in a bad way) and will do things like cause transmission and engine oils to bake and fail prematurley.

    If it's a larger leak, say 3-6 drops per day, well, looks like your doing some maintenance. You may also want to try the Maintenance section of Town Hall.

    Good Luck,
    John
  • 96flea96flea Posts: 38
    Took my 96 4.0 w/45000 miles on it to Pepboys cause the engine light came on. They found nothing and resat the computer. 120 miles later the light came back on so i took it to a private owned garage. They found a tranny code came up on their computer. They resat it and said it was really nothing to worry about. The light has not came on again yet. Has anyone else had this problem? The truck runs good. It has the occasional clunk in rear end but its done that for a while. Also, how do you get swirl marks out of a black paint job?
  • Swirl marks typically come from scratches occured while washing or waxing with dirt on the sponge or towels. You can usually minimized the appearance, or even clear up the not-so deep ones by using a good product line of waxes. I use Mcguires. Basically you'll need to use a body scrub/paint cleaner/scratch filler. Some people like clay bars to help remove the particles. Then a paint polish to get paint oils and colors back to new. The a clear coat wax/carnauba wax to seal it all in. Since you have black paint, really top it off with a lot of clear coat polish to keep the UV's from fading the paint.
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