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Ford Ranger Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fm544fm544 Posts: 6
    Thanks, I will check it out.
    Frank
  • This appears to be my problem as well, as I have experienced 'harsh engagements' no doubt. Is the speed sensor you refer to located on the rear axle of a 2WD '98 Ranger 4.0L? Is the repair a do it yourself project and does it require any special tools? Thanks in advance.
  • gcs183gcs183 Posts: 1
    all of a sudden my abs light came on my od light started to blink and my speedometer does not work tried replacing the abs sensor on the rear and my abs light went off but od light still blinks and speedometer does not work and i forgot to mention it revs high in first and shifts hard into second any suggestions
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    it is located on the transmission extention housing and has a 10 or 11 mm bolt an easy do it yourself project it only takes a few min. to change
  • Thank you very much. I called O'Reilly and asked for a 'speed sensor' - they quoted the part at under $20 - does that sound about right?

    Is this problem with a periodic flashing OD light something that could be diagnosed with an OBD2 tester?
  • My truck ran out of gas today and the problems started. I have plenty of gas in it now but it will barely start and run. If i push the fuel pump reset it starts and runs so long as i alternate between holding and pumping the reset button. Is my fuel pump toast? If it is, how hard is it to change? Where is it located?
    Thanks in advance
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    it sounds like your fuel pump shut off switch has gone bad, and needs replaced. If it keeps kickin out on ya... It should go in and stay in regardless of fuel level, it should only kick out if you are in an accident..

    Ford Tech
  • lindaw1lindaw1 Posts: 1
    Sorry for using your msg to post...I'm new and can't seem to find the 'POST' button. I am told that I need a new oxygen sensor on my '99 Ranger XLT. It's a 4.0 litre, 6 cylinder. Where is my oxygen sensor, is it easy to get to so I can replace it myself or should I let the guy who wants to charge $300 do it for me. FYI - I'm not a mechanic but I can do simple things, like change plugs, wires, etc.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    it's located on the y pipe under the vehicle some vehicles have 2 oxygen sensors i have a 96 s-10 and it has 3 hope this helps
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    sounds like a bad fuel pump relay
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    no, it can not be detected with an obd II the tester will only read codes if the engine light is on and yes $20 is about right for the cost of the speed sensor
  • I unpluged the connector under the reset button, and it looks a little melted. I think i'll change the connector and button.
    thanks for your help
  • PLEASE HELP!!!....I have a 99 Ranger automatic 2 wheel drive 3.0 V-6 My oil pump is shot. I have been trying very hard to get the oil pan off to get at the pump. All pan bolts are off. Motor mounts are unbolted and I have the engine lifted about as far as it can go. Starter is removed. Tranny inspection plate is removed. Oil dip stick tube is removed. Oil pan is free and can be moved around fairly well but seems to be held in place by the oil pump lift tube assembally. I can't seem to get at the bolts to drop the pump into the pan......Is there anything that I can do to get the lift tube away from the pump. I can't see how it is attached or what holds it on or is there something else that I need to do to get at the oil pump? I am at my wits end and I cant see anything else to take off that would give me any more room....Any advice would be helpfull. Please be as detailed as possible.
  • buster15buster15 Posts: 38
    Hey Tukeanu:

    Thks for the info and glad you did not get screwed (too bad). The dealer who told me the sensor was built into the hub assy was the Ford dealer in Belleville Ontario (Fry Ford)613-962-8691 or 1-800-267-3339. If you decide to call them out of curiosity post/e-mail back.

    Thks
    Dave
  • pinhead2pinhead2 Posts: 3
    My 86 Ranger with 2.0 was skipping. So I gave it a tune up with little change in performance. The problem got worse until truck would almost not run. So I pulled the distributor and saw that the pin for the distributor gear was sheared. I picked up a rebuilt and tried to install. The new distributor will Not drop in when I position the #1 cyl. at TDC. It will only drop in a position that is completely out of time. Is the part defective or gear in crankcase bad? Need help, any suggestions (besides junk it)? :sick: Please Help,pinhead2
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    The reason it wont drop in with #1 at TDC is because the oil pump shaft is not lining up. You need to get a 5/16th socket on an extension and turn the shaft to line up with the socket on the distributor.
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you can also get the distributor to drop in by turning the engine by hand!
  • pinhead2pinhead2 Posts: 3
    86FordRanger w/2.0: Distributor is now correctly installed. I have also installed a new coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and a electronic ignition module. I've got juice on both sides of coil. I've got spark to top of coil. Virtaully, no spark is at the plugs.
    Occasionally will get limited weak spark when I ease off the starter. Someone told me to replace idle control module on passenger side wheel-well (same size as ignition control module on the driver side of the vehicle). I'm sick of replacing parts, something tells me the problem lies elsewhere. Any suggestions? Thanks, Pinhead 2. :sick:
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    it's been a long time since i have worked on the older trucks but if my memory serves me, there should be a brain box bolted to the fender well on the drivers side it will have 2 connectors that plug into the wiring harness, that is most likely the problem. as i remember the simptoms resulted in weak or no spark. i have driven several of the older rangers the last one was an 84 with over 300,000 miles on it and the brain was a very comon problem with the older fords. the cost i believe is somewhere around $20 to $30 for a new one. you could get a used one to try it. i also used slick 50 in my engine and it never did burn any oil. hope this helps ya!
  • pinhead2pinhead2 Posts: 3
    I,ve already replaced the box on the drivers side.
  • 1990 Ranger, 2.3 4 cyl fuel injected, 57,000 miles.
    Truck sat for over 4 years. Changed fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned tank, new plugs, wires. Sometimes it starts and runs great, others, hit the gas and it bogs, BAAAAD, to the tune of almost shutting off. Ran codes on it and nothing came up, (of course it was running good at that time), feels like a vac or sensor problem. Any help would be much appreciated, shade tree mechanic's don't know the diagnostics.
  • P1506 - Idle Air Control Overspeed Error
    P1113 - Manufacturer Control Fuel Air Metering
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    some time back i ran in to a problem on a s10 not sure if it will do any good, but it didn't have any spark and the problem was in the positive battery cable connection to the battery it was coroded the engine turned over but no spark. also check your ground wire from the body to the engine and harness plugs sometimes they get coroded. sometimes it can be a minor overlooked problem. maybe this will help or not
    have a good day
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    there is an idle speed solenoid on the throttle body that controls the gas air mix, it looks like a small cylinder with wires pluged in to it. thats most likely causing your problem. (not a throttle position sensor)
  • Just bought a 2000 4.0 xlt 4x4 with 80k miles. Had the truck a week and it has run quiet. Changed oil yesterday, 5w30 oil, Lucas, and a motocraft filter, and now the engine is chattering like crazy. I understand these motors have chattering issues? Why did it run quiet before and now sounds awful? Help!
  • fordtechfordtech Posts: 34
    Well first off, you put an additive into the oil, and you dont know how that additive works with that oil. Change the oil again, and this time leave out the Lucas. I hate oil additives... LOL I am a Ford Tech by the way, and Ford DOES NOT recommend any additives in the oil. Not to mention they are NOT needed.

    Go from 5W30 to 10W30, it is getting warmer after all, and the thicker oil will not get thin as fast as the 5W oil will.

    Ford Tech
  • wookie1wookie1 Posts: 99
    you want to make sure your oil pressure is still good as well, sometimes even new filters are defective, and like the man says additives are bad for engines unless your engine burns an excessive amount of oil and you need to get it home
  • frohrsfrohrs Posts: 17
    I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 2.3 with about 175,000 miles on it. The oil pressure has been reading pretty low on the gauge (lower than the little oil can in gauge) but the oil is right up to the correct level on the stick..doesn't burn any oil & the head was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago. The truck runs super cool & lately the oil pressure has been back up to where it normally is on the gauge. I change the oil every 3,000 miles if not less 20/50.

    Any suggestions!
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